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  • Top End Related
    55 Topics
    668 Posts
    S

    My 3nc is fine as well. But nobody said they were bad. Just that the 3mb were a tadpole better 😜 …
    With the early bikes a fat strong spark can make a real difference. As soon as I put my lights on it zaps my tick over. I can see it going from blue to orange in my minds eye! …

  • Bottom End Related
    7 Topics
    42 Posts
    Hark_PtooieH

    Sorry for commenting on a 3 year old thread, but I have worked a little with balance shafts on humongous machinery and wanted to post a little for posterior knowledge.

    A single balance shaft on a single-cylinder doesn't really do much. It mostly just phase-shifts the vibrations so they go in another direction. Back and forth instead of up and down, like.

    Dual balance shafts is another thing. They cooperate in the right direction, and counteract each other in between - and if you put them slightly offset each other vertically they can even mitigate some rotational moment.

    But balance shafts also have another interesting effect - they can reduce the bearing load. There are actually two different optimums - one which gives the least vibrations but a bit higher bearing load, and another that is the opposite.

    So when I see that small engines have a single balance shaft, I usually assume it is to allow it to manage high revs by means of lowering bearing forces rather than reducing unpleasant vibrations.

    There was a bike back in the 90's(?) - some european single-cylinder 2-stroke 250 cc enduro (cross?) - that had a balance shaft and managed to output 70+ hp when all the balance-shaft-less big-brand competitors only gave 55 hp or so. Because it revved to like 12000 when the others quit at 9000 or whatever.

  • Carburetor Related
    93 Topics
    954 Posts
    Hark_PtooieH

    The cylinder sucks in air at intervals, leading to a pulsation in the inlet airflow. That bottle is a buffer that smooths out the pulsations.

    The piston goes up, sucking in air through the carburetor which is (and should be) the main restriction in the intake. This causes a low pressure on the engine side of the carburetor, including that bottle.

    When the piston goes down and closes the intake port, there would be a rather sudden pulse where air rush in through the carburetor and meets a dead end. Pressure rises, gas stops throughout the manifold, including the carburetor. Then when the port opens and the piston sucks in gas again, it would have to accelerate the gas mass from zero.

    With the bottle, the volume of that closed-off manifold is artificially increased, so it takes longer for the gas to fill the cavity and come to a stop. Hence it keeps moving, supposedly until the port opens again and the piston suck in gas again.

    The effect should be that there is a more constant flow of air through the carburetor, which likely improves the atomization or decrease condensation or whatever.

    4-stroke engines usually tune the intake manifold runner lengths such that the air pulsations should cause the "pillar of gas" that comes at the intake valve at high speed should "ram" through it when it opens. While the mass of the air is small and it is very elastic, the velocities are substantial so it counts. I wager this is sort of the same thing.

    In 4-stroke engines it is also not uncommon that the intake runner lengths vary with engine speed. I know my car has a valve that opens and shorten the length above some rpms. My Honda Fireblade also had something like it in the airbox.

  • Return the bike to how it was intended to be!
    22 Topics
    368 Posts
    C

    @Calum said in Restrictions:

    @tunertom Yeah that inlet manifold is a load of tosh, but don't discount Scrim, he knows his shit.

    @CYBER-NINJA haha yeah I did chop my exhaust up and removed the cat, but oh my seriously those pipes have some serious weight, so if not for the performance the weight alone is worth swapping out lmao!

    Hi I have his destruction manual and seems mostly since 🙂

  • Dt 125r 1997 tuning need help

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    Louis-DT-WRL

    the 2003 was easy to derestrict the standard 3rm-20 cdi I actually found very good. Restrictions were the standard exhaust and the reed switch in the back of the speedometer. They came with the powervalve from factory unlike some other years which I can't believe they did fit servos! Back when mine was 125cc it would destroy an 1990 DTR

  • Zeeltronic for 2003 DT 125 R

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    CalumC

    @sgt-robuck-5 Don't forget the ignitech @Darty rates them.

    I used Zeel because it came recommended to me.

    I will be buying zeel for my upcoming project.

    I've had problems with them, I contacted them and they sorted it out no quibbles.

    Peace of mind.

  • Gap at bottom of crankcase

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    CalumC

    I just retitled the thread to help others find it in the future. Saves me answering the same question over and over

  • 2003 DT125R tops out at 65mph ?

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    CalumC

    Oh dear, back on topic anyhow....Let us know how you get on with the PV. If it still struggling then it would sound like it's still restricted and needs sorting ASAP! 2003 models were the WORST for restrictions!

  • Dt125r jetting

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    J

    2strokes in general is jetted plenty rich, to make sure they dont seize.

    I run my 94 R with snorkel removed, and the airbox opened slightly more.
    Stock mainjet, and half a notch leaner on the needle. The mainjet is still plenty rich.

    Stock header, and aftermarked end can, otherwise stock.

  • Why pin your pv ?

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    MightymanM

    I think the sound from my vid shows it pretty well.

    https://youtu.be/hZQRdm-AB_s

    It just gives the bike a much more motocrossy feel, really impractical for commuting but fun none-the-less.

  • "Tuning" advantages of open air filters

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    declanD

    @CYBER-NINJA I will do some testing by restricting air flow and getting a new cdi

  • Reed valves

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    Louis-DT-WRL

    No very noticeable, although my v-force v3 works very well, especially in the high revs 🙂 see my 200cc conversion thread

  • Polish piston crown

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    DartyD

    https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2816/33775090465_8825e16fdb_c.jpg

    You shouldn't be polishing either really,

    but here is a used MITAKA vs a New WOSSNER to illustrate. Carbon does help to a point. The Wossner is a CNC finish, but if your hunting power there wont be any difference.

    Problem with forged is the difference in thermal expansion to a cast alloy. MITAKA is a good choice for the DT.

    https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/548/31277391110_2d27cd8549_c.jpg

    Smooth yes, but a rough surface lends itself to optimising fuel atomisation, that is more important.