Distinct blueing of the small eye or bearing. Lose needles or other wise damage. I think a new small end bearing is like £5 so it's no hardship to simply replace if in doubt

I turned the bike off for about 30 seconds, turned it back on and let it idle and it was fine, the light was on for a good 3-4 mins beforehand though. Wasn't low on power at all, felt like it was running fine. Sensor was replaced a few months back when the old one snapped.

Meh, I mean, I would just use it.

But we were linked to a video of a guy with a TDR 250 who said the engine seized because of a worn bush. So.... use at risk. Renew if funds allow

@declan hell yeah 😂

@cartermarc1 The valve will be flush with the exhaust port, since the valves job is to altr the exhaust port height to enable better low end performance by restricting lost fuel and air theough the open port.

@calum I've used this before in both my dt and yz and never had anything go wrong tho??

You normally check the squish by feeding a small length of solder down the spark plug hole, so the edge of the solder touches the edge of the bore. Then turning the engine over by hand then measuring the squashed end of the solder with a micrometer or similar. The squish on my dtr was 0.6mm when I bought it, which seems to be on the tight side.

It will go thousands and thousands of miles on the gearbox oil, no worries 😃

You could fill oil tank, bleed pump and run bike on premix with oil discharge pipe disconnected into a milk bottle amd see if it works with engine running, rotate pulley on oil pump to max for maximum discharge. Will give you an idea if its doing anything at all.

@mitch_350z Right, yeah 10mm IIRC. I replaced all mine with M6 Stainless Steel Hex heads.

It's designed to be like that for the pick up.

@ninja tell me about it, I wish engines were see through 😂

@jammy123 Haynes manuals are a goldmine of info, best tool in any workshop!!! 🙂

I went with 112. If it’s to long I’ll shorten

Well guys I’m certainly in the right place with this forum.
@Calum I realise and understand your thinking, you always offer a way to still ride the bike to enjoy it. 😃
I just want to get shot of the bodges, turned screw heads, snapped bolts and quick fixes.
@oldman thank you for the contact, I really appreciate it. I’m hoping both the pumps l got hold of work, then l can send one off to be refurbished.
@NINJA thank you for your kind words, l say great minds think alike...... and congregate in similar places!
I should be able to take it out this weekend, even my new rear fender for AJ Sutton has turned up, that has got to be good luck! 🤣👍

You will need to bleed it if you disconnected the pipe from oil tank to pump. Its easy , on the side of pump is small blind rubber pipe with clip . Let bike idle , and put some clean container under the pump then pull that hose ,oil will leak uneven , manually turn the oil pulley to full , when oil leaking nice and even there should be no air in it. Then just refit the small pipe and clip and thats it. Tip the oil back in tank 👍🏼
Best to have the clear pipes

@calum - I have had it all apart and have ordered a new kit for the impeller and seal.
Whilst I’m in the clutch area l have ordered a new clutch and spring set.
Fingers crossed this will solve this problem!
Thanks again for your help...... to the next bodge! 😳👍

@ricky0115 shit happens lol

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See photo

I am worked on mine recently , according to the haynes manual its 7kg-m which is 68.64 nm
😊