@89dt125nick hi nick, I used to have a 88 model, the early ones didn't have a servo as this was the learner legal restriction. Later ones had working powervalve but restricted elsewhere. If you remove the powervalve cover on the right hand side of the engine you'll see a small metal dowel which locks the valve in place, you can only move it 180 degrees due to the dowel so either fully open or fully closed. In short open for high end power and closed for low end power so each one is a sacrifice of the other. You can easily retro fit a servo for the best if both worlds but for the older models as you have I believe you need the 3 wire servo as opposed to the later 5 wire.

@Calum I didn't think of that I'm sure they must be raking it as you said but surely in this exceptional case that has affected and touched pretty much the whole world they could do their bit and reduce their commission assuming that is how it works. Apparently he spent 3 years as a POW and he's an ex motorcycle racer. He was in the army endurance racing team and he also set up a motorcycle training school for the army. Visordown did a piece on him I was reading this morning. Captain Tom. What an exceptional man!

@tim85 on my bike they are overflow/breather pipes as they connect to nothing, just directed downwards. I think The smaller lower one is for when you drain the float bowl. The carb warming pipes are on the other side and a bit higher. Sort of directly behind the choke linkage, 2 pipes quite close together and pointing upwards My warming pipes have just been removed and looped at the cylinder head by the previous owner. I guess they're only needed if you live in a cold country.

@shortstockevs if you are on Facebook join the group 'Frankies French imports'. There's a few guys on there that rebuild DT125LC's who will gladly help you. And you can scroll back through all the posts for lots of pictures during the builds. You may find the help you need on this forum but it is mainly for the later DT125R.

@Calum I understand what you're saying about the exhaust wrap, that also came already on the bike, I may take it off. As for the CDI it might have been changed already as it's a 3rm-30 which I'm led to believe is good also quite rare is it not? Also I might add the log book says first registered in the UK 2007 I was told it's a French import.

It has the Athena 170 bore kit, not what I would have chose especially after reading @Calum's opinion on them about port timing etc but it was on it when I bought it. So was the nice shiny new full dep exhaust though not sure how long the front part will stay that shiny as I gather from what I've read on this forum they rust easily. Does anyone here know of anything that can coat/treat it to slow down the rust?
A few things on my to do list eg. Get the powervalve working as the servo is disconnected and it's set fully open, I've bought a battery as it didn't have one so I'll fit that and look at connecting ypvs back up. Also I must look at the jetting as it currently has a 290 which I thought seems a little big? Anybody here used a 290? Any thoughts please? It's a 2000 model.

@Calum sorry my mistake I'm blaming tiredness I meant Speedo and rev counter not throttle cable.

Hello forum, I'm Markus.
I bought my 2000 dt125r back in September last year but still not 'on the road' yet. It's currently stored at my place of work which is on the local port estate so I have ridden it a few times around the private roads inside the estate. All seems good as far as I can tell. It has no lights or clocks but they all came included in a box with the sale except for throttle and rev counter cable which I have since bought for about £6 each brand new. I guess not genuine Yamaha items but I don't suppose that would matter? Will be on the road in the next month so I'll let you all know how that goes and look forward to getting to know you all though I think over the past few months I have read almost every post on here and feel like I know you all quite well already and have learnt so much about the dtr so thought it only fair I introduce myself and say thanks for sharing your knowledge.

@deigo27 it's fine lots of people have done it. They are only needed if you live in a country which is very cold. I'm in UK and most people I know have bypassed them. The idea is to prevent the throttle slide from sticking in extreme cold.

@DTR12503 yes it is meant to cover the outlet for the overflow and it lifts at a certain preset pressure which should be stated on the top of the cap and it could be worn and lifting slightly too soon. Different caps are set for different pressures so make sure you order the correct one.

@SpookDog i agree. Can't think of any reason Yamaha would do that with the numbers on the cables other than to confuse us. I imagine it's caught a lot of people out.

@andyjack yes that's correct, 1 goes to 2 and 2 to 1. They don't cross. Obviously use the adjusters to slacken the cable first.

@andyjack that's cool. That's some really helpful information right there.

@Stevie-Wonder the way I see it you want to recreate the same gearing you had with your 18" wheel on a 19" wheel is that correct? If so doing the maths you'll need to know the circumference of both tyres and work out the difference as a percentage, for example if the 19" you have now is 5% bigger circumference than the 18" then to compensate you'll need to upsize the amount of teeth on the rear sprocket or downsize the front by 5% or as close as sprocket size options allow.

@mhbikesnbits thank you I will take a look.

@mhbikesnbits yes I really like that. Where can I get some from or what is it called? Also does it go over the plastic or did you strip the plastic sleeve first?

@MadGyver obviously the .7mm difference in stroke would be acquired by altering the crankshaft as that's the only possible way to alter the stroke, but you're saying they both use the exact same cylinder dimensions? Did you measure the port heights because that is where we'd see these possible differences?

@SpookDog the Haynes manual says the tzr used the 56.4/50 3bn up to 1996. I did once read that the r was for replica, being a replica of the tz race bikes hence tz replica.

@mhbikesnbits looking good. That's a good point too, it sure does take a battering that part. And I think Yamaha done away with the grease nipple on later models for some reason.

@SpookDog tell me please, I know the bore and stroke are slightly different sizes but what would be the consequences of fitting the later barrel to the early crank? Other than maybe changing performance slightly would it cause any harm?