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    @SpookDog Hhhmm, yeah tell me about it. I ordered a new server, a rack mounting and new hard disks back in September and I have seen little of any of those items! Meanwhile this is potentially limping along.

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    @SpookDog yeah that's cool as f

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    Broken Red sounds suspicious! 🙂

    The chances of 2 different CDI units having the same fault is astronomical! I’d be looking at the loom and DC from battery to PV.
    My early 88 bike had a broken red wire at one of the connector blocks that go to the ignition-key. It was smooshed up and still touching, when I fixed it the power valve properly came to life. I never realised how ‘slow’ it was before. I had no ‘benchmark’…

    If the PV isn’t moving at all it definitely sounds like a 12V DC issue. Mend that wire! 🙂 …

    If the horn and indicators work without the engine running the battery & fuse is good…

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    Well that's why people were not a big fan of Athena 170 kit because of the extra weight causing additional vibrations...

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    Hi, yeah, its basically empty inside apart from some dried up old grease, thanks spookdog


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    It’s a bit of a headfux isn’t it? The read switch might not be a simple magnetic on/off by the looks of it. It might set to a default mode if it the CDI doesn’t detect a continuity in the curcuit?

    It would be helpful to know if it only restricts the revs in top gear, or every gear? I would try joining the wires at least once to see if there’s a change at all…

    It might be easier to get an earlier CDI than a read switch…

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    OK not what I was thinking, but very interesting. Never seen anything like that before…
    It doesn’t look like any kind of method you could use for precision tuning though…