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  • Announcements regarding our community
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    HOTSHOT IIIH
    Merry Christmas everyone!
  • Got an Account Problem? Discuss here!

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    CalumC
    @HOTSHOT-III Hopefully the issue gets resolved as I don't want to lose the data they're hosting. The important stuff I ought to host here to guarantee it isn't lost.
  • A place to talk about whatever you want
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    CalumC
    Hi John, Sounds like a lovely little time machine you've got there. Cracking bike and very very reliable, if it's not working, then it'll be something very simple and I am sure we'll be on hand to answer any questions you may have in an attempt to get you on the road again.
  • Show off your builds!
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    CalumC
    So I don't align the powervalve with the hole (partly because my exhaust/valve have been ported so it probably isn't right anyway. You did right by aligning flush with the exhaust port. I'd just focus on that, take the exhaust off and align it with the exhaust port. Flick the ignition on and off a few times to make sure the cables don't realign. If you want a quick way to diagnose your problem to get you a steer in the right direction then I'd do this. Align the powervalve flush with the exhaust port Disconnect the powervalve servo Remove the carb air filter boot (eliminating the airbox) Run the bike with no air filter What this should do. Remove the powervalve will stifle bottom end, but 6k+ should shoot off like a rocket. Eliminating the airfilter removes any restrictions that might be present in the air intake tract. Whilst not ideal running without a filter, it will be fine for a short space of time. Unless a stone flicks into the inlet you'll be fine. You should now be running the bike quite lean (so avoid prolonged wide open throttle). The bike should run better now than ever. If it runs worse, it tells you your jetting is too rich. If it runs better then you know that you need more fuel. If it runs the same, then you know the problem lies elsewhere. I am expecting it to be the latter, I'm expecting the problem to lie else where, but ruling these items out first, means we can then start to go more technical knowing that we've addressed the simple things first.
  • Need Information on a Specific Part? Post Here!
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    CalumC
    The OEM ones are apparently made by GPR or Tourmax. One manufactured by Mitsubishi should be of sufficient quality, Mitsubishi supply into Yamaha for a lot of other parts these days. Can you link the one you're looking to buy? Presumably it's this one: https://yambits.co.uk/dt125re-ignition-coil-mitsubishi-japan-p-222065.html [image: igc016_.jpg] Yambits is a quality website, so should be reliable and Mitsubishi is not going to mess about with subpar coils.
  • Need more power? Check here!
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    Elan nE
    Hey, im trying to understand the fuss about jet differences between models and years and import etc. I find this very interesting and helps me a lot to fully understand the bike. Like take the same model i would say dtx or dtre with a couple years difference and the jets sizes(also pilot jets) switches significantly and with having the same carb like the tm28ss. Why does it have a difference while running the same engine?
  • Need a Guide? Look Here!
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    MadGyverM
    @Calum That site is known even more year's!!!!!