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  • Suspension Related
    98 761
    98 Topics
    761 Posts
    CalumC
    @HOTSHOT-III Does sound interesting, for my long-term Aphrodite project I definitely need to set this up properly. So either I'll be taking it somewhere, or I'll be learning the ins and outs to get it in the right ball-park.
  • Exhaust Related
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    D
    as far as i m aware there are 3 different types of tzr the first model series 2 (RR) an tzr125r sp i have an exhaust with the code 4DL E46 10 20 what model is it intended for
  • Framework Related
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    606 Posts
    CalumC
    That's normal. All DTs are like that. [image: IMG-20251011-114625.jpg]
  • Wheel Related
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    CalumC
    No, this was obviously a very common conversion. The problem is not only obtaining the wheels, but getting the forks and adapter plate to go with it also!
  • Electric Related
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    254 Topics
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    J
    @gary76 i do have the meter but i dont really know how to use it could u help?
  • Brake Related
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    G
    @HOTSHOT III Thanks for the reply bud yea all good on that front it’s the long pedal travel I don’t like it’s just me and how I like things
  • Engine Related
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    5k Posts
    CalumC
    No you don't need to open up the engine all the way. It's just a push rod system, if the clutch cam isn't engaging with the push rod then it might be because the push rod has fallen beneath the cam arm so you're not able to position the cam behind the push rod. I've never had this happen to me personally, I don't recall this being an issue, but the design is very simple so there is very little to go wrong. What commonly happens is that the ball bearing inside the engine can get misplaced, which presents itself in a similar manner as you're describing. But this is not possible without dismantling the engine. In essence what you have can be pictured as below: |_._ The | is the cam that you slot from the top of the engine. When the cable is pulled, it twists the cam which acts on the first pushrod denoted here by _. This is space separated with a ball bearing, denoted by . which pushes a further push rod denoted by _. What might be possible is that you've ended up in situation where you've pulled the cam out and now the setup is like: | _._ The cam is now resting on top of the push rod and is no longer engaged with it. So when you pull the lever, nothing happens. I can't remember whether this is even possible, but if it is then you'll notice the cam is sitting a lot higher outside the engine and would be obvious. I am not sure if the pushrods are under load, but if they're not, then leaning the bike over towards the clutch may cause the rods/ball to move allowing the cam to be lowered appropriately. If that doesn't work, then no it's not a full dismantlement. It's just a case of taking the clutch cover off, and taking the clutch pressure plate off to expose the push rods. Extracting them (by leaning the bike over careful not to misplace the ball bearing) and then inserting the cam in first. BUT I REALLY don't think that's what is happening here. It's probably more likely that the clutch just needs adjusting. I'd recommend referring to the Haynes manual for this.
  • Yamaha DT125R/200R Workshop Manual

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  • Yamaha DT parts book pdf,s download at your leisure !

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    O
    Thanks Scrim, can you email the dt125r service manual to me when you have time? Ta
  • Clutch

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    CalumC
    https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/13/kick-start-conversion-dtre
  • Cdi unit connection to servomotor wiring problem. Help

    dt125r
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    HOTSHOT IIIH
    @Julius And what type of CDI unit do you have?
  • Service manuals DT125R & DT200R

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    CalumC
    I'll PM you.
  • Seized Engine

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    CalumC
    @GiannisT The smart thing to do would be to tear it down and inspect/renew where appropriate. There is no shortcuts, one way or the other that engine is coming apart. If the swarf hasn't contaminated the main bearings it'll no doubt have damaged the big end bearing. Anything short cut you do will likely cause further harm and stress to other components causing bigger, more expensive, problems in the long run. That bike didn't die on tickover, going by the extent of the damage to that piston/head. The head needs throwing in the bin, it's trashed. You might be able to get a tuner to alter the squishband and remove the detonation/debris marks from the head, but as it stands it's a glorified paper weight. The problem with running damaged heads such as that, is that it encourages detonation, even if the jetting appears to be correct. In other words, it's just a shortcut to a blown engine, doubly frustrating when it's freshly built. My advice, don't scrimp on critical components, it'll just come back to bite you. You could spit the cases and inspect the components for wear. If all is in order then you may not need to renew (although I would anyway). You could just inspect it in situ and see if the float is okay and if the big end bearing is damaged by checking for play. No way to tell about the mains or crankcase seals without tearing it apart. If debris has contaminated the seals then it will never idle/run right.
  • 1998 TDR 125 4FU Engine Cutting Out When Warm

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    L
    @SpookDog I believe I have fixed it now. Swapped out the voltage regulator got it up to temps and it ran fine.
  • This topic is deleted!

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  • MPH Speedo wanted for 1998 DT 125R

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    P
    So the converter is only converting to match the KPH face then and not a real converter i.e. really changing to mph. Sounds like I need to find a proper MPH speedo after all! Don't suppose you have a good one you fancy selling? Appreciate your help as you have saved me a lot of aggro. Cheers
  • Dt200r oil pump

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    @old-boy-racer Don’t forget that the oil pump is calibrated to the carb. It’s the right amount of oil for the air-petrol mix going in. If you put a much bigger carb on I would start thinking about the oil pump… Do you get what I’m saying? The pump is running at 50:1 why would premixing at 50:1 be any different? Think about it … PS what carb does the Dtr 200 run? Cause the pump is calibrated to the carb, not the cylinder…
  • DT125 re wheels conversion issue

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    markus.wM
    @jarvis2292 they will fit also.
  • Help me

    Moved help need help dt125r
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    CalumC
    @Hybrid_Theory01 It won't be the gearing, it'll be the starter. It's the same as if you bump start your motorbike in reverse then it'll go in reverse. So the kick starter mechanism probably isn't correct. Although, I cannot visualise how this can be the case. I can't see how the gearbox can be assembled in such a way, so the only thing I can think of is the engine going around the wrong direction.
  • Very Smokie

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    @SpookDog Now there’s some miles on it We’ve been opening it up a bit. Still running Kmh clocks and I kinda know they will be out but with me pushing 14 stone that’s close to 90kg in new money with jacket helmet boots n gloves it’s revving out in 5th and pushing 9.5k in top well into the 120-130kmh. So I’m well happy. One thing I am really pleased about is it’s still pulling past the power through the gears and it didn’t drop past 8k with a bit of an incline. I’m sure if I was 17 again weighing in at 10 stone wet it would be well into the red. The exhaust tone from the full DEP just makes you want to blast it everywhere
  • Engine identification required

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  • Carb coolant lines

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    Deigo27D
    @markus-w cheers mare just wanted to be 100% sure, just cleaned carb today n was full of varnish looking petrol cos bikes been sat ages, jets were blocked too really dirty tbh! Cleaned n refitted but just looped head hose to other head pipe n done same with carb pipes.. I'm in Scotland, cheers mate
  • Dt 125 1993 How to derestict

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    CalumC
    @markymar https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/578/derestricting-guide
  • Front forks help PLEASE!

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    CalumC
    @perky Yes, that's what someone said the other day. The DTX Runs a Brembo Caliper too, which won't fit DTX forks.
  • forks

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    F
    @calum pulled it out to get a pic ended up pulling legs to see what crack is, dtx stanchions are shorter, the insides are slightly different too ive added a shim/washer ontop of the springs seems to have lifted it abit but still not quite there, not sure how to upload a pic as it says its too big of file
  • Yz mudguards

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    NottsbikerN
    Fit fine on the 125 only need drilling if UFO or Acerbis etc Put one on my DT200WR but had to cut the back of it down as it hit the rads
  • DT125 R(4BL) Parts no longer available (new)

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