Skip to content

Technical Zone

1.3k Topics 11.5k Posts
Need Information on a Specific Part? Post Here!

Subcategories


  • Suspension Related
    100 768
    100 Topics
    768 Posts
    HOTSHOT IIIH
    @reudtr88 The seller is right, the spacers and caliper bracket are narrower than the DT125R versions. The bench mock-up in the pics above comprised a 3ET DT200R swingarm, caliper hanger and spacers mated to a DT125R hub. As you can see the 428 sprockets lined up quite well (I also had to use a 3mm thick M20 washer between the caliper hanger and swingarm to get it as good as it could possibly be with the items I had to hand).
  • Exhaust Related
    64 569
    64 Topics
    569 Posts
    D
    as far as i m aware there are 3 different types of tzr the first model series 2 (RR) an tzr125r sp i have an exhaust with the code 4DL E46 10 20 what model is it intended for
  • Framework Related
    86 606
    86 Topics
    606 Posts
    CalumC
    That's normal. All DTs are like that. [image: IMG-20251011-114625.jpg]
  • Wheel Related
    83 749
    83 Topics
    749 Posts
    R
    Just measure from the inside of the fork leg to the rim on each side, +-2mm should be ok I think. If you release the nuts on the axle clamp on the right side (if I remember correctly) and pump the front suspension up and down, and then re-tighten, it should not bind. If the seals wear out too quickly, I would check the surface of the fork tubes, so they are not damaged (pitted from rust, flaking chrome etc.)
  • Electric Related
    267 2k
    267 Topics
    2k Posts
    R
    ..and you need the battery too, not just the regulator. Forgot to write that
  • Brake Related
    70 459
    70 Topics
    459 Posts
    CalumC
    Do you mean dual piston caliper? Or do you want two calipers 🤭 https://ebay.io/m/yOnXyn Or have one made using Nevs design [image: 27961158925_26ab4db984_c.jpg] https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/1343/dt125-front-brake-caliper-bracket-dimensions/2?_=1772783708212
  • Engine Related
    547 5k
    547 Topics
    5k Posts
    R
    Some comments: The Athena exhaust has only a 19mm stinger, I replaced that with 22mm (ID) stinger, and it improved a bit in the mid to high revs. Also helps keep temperatures down. The silences also has a 'restriction' in the perforated pipe, so it would be good to replace that too (even if I didn't) I found raising the cylinder also helps a bit. I found 1,5mm to be a bit too much, 0,5-1mm seems to work. You also need to adjust the head when raising it. I cut my own 'bath tub' chamber with abt 11:1 geometric CR, which seems to be a good compromise to avoid deto with pump gas. At the same time I changed the shape of the piston crown to a 'normal' shape, not the Athena compromise so they could use the same head as the 125 kit.. even the power valve seems to be the same, radius is not matching the 65mm bore.. I definitely recommend Zeel, it will give you the possibility to tune ignition to get some more over-rev, tune ypvs to the pipe etc. Seems to be the transfers that limit the high rev power on the cylinder. Raising the cylinder improves this, because the transfers are far from fully open at BDC. However raising the cylinder also raises the exhaust to extreme durations (approaching 200deg when you start raising the cylinder), and that is not good. As is, the exhaust blowdown STA seems to have margin for more power, but the transfers don't flow enough to support it. So if you are going for porting, I would recommend starting with widening and raising the transfer port windows. I don't think there is much to gain from matching in the crank case etc, it might make you feel better but rarely has any real results unless it's really bad.
  • Yamaha DT125R/200R Workshop Manual

    Pinned Locked
    1
    3 Votes
    1 Posts
    1k Views
    No one has replied
  • Yamaha DT parts book pdf,s download at your leisure !

    Pinned
    2
    1 Votes
    2 Posts
    2k Views
    O
    Thanks Scrim, can you email the dt125r service manual to me when you have time? Ta
  • 88 Dtr air joint help

    5
    0 Votes
    5 Posts
    287 Views
    CalumC
    Yes, the air leak will definitely not be helped by not plugging up the oil inlet on the manfild, albeit a tiny leak. Yes the '88 DTR ran the TMS26 carb not the TM28 carb found on all other years. That said, I am not aware of any other changes. So finding a suitable inlet manifold (probably can still be had new) and the airboot shouldn't be hard. But finding a genuine Mikuni 28mm is trickier. A split in the carb boot is not ideal, but it won't be the source of your problem. I'd just smear some silicone onto it and allow that to harden. Crank seals are common causes for air leaks, as well as the gasket on the inlet manifolds (once you sort the oil connector out). Spray some WD40 around the general vicinity and if the revs drop back to normal then you've found your culprit .
  • Clutch

    4
    0 Votes
    4 Posts
    2k Views
    CalumC
    https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/13/kick-start-conversion-dtre
  • Cdi unit connection to servomotor wiring problem. Help

    dt125r
    3
    0 Votes
    3 Posts
    761 Views
    HOTSHOT IIIH
    @Julius And what type of CDI unit do you have?
  • Service manuals DT125R & DT200R

    2
    0 Votes
    2 Posts
    1k Views
    CalumC
    I'll PM you.
  • Seized Engine

    23
    0 Votes
    23 Posts
    10k Views
    CalumC
    @GiannisT The smart thing to do would be to tear it down and inspect/renew where appropriate. There is no shortcuts, one way or the other that engine is coming apart. If the swarf hasn't contaminated the main bearings it'll no doubt have damaged the big end bearing. Anything short cut you do will likely cause further harm and stress to other components causing bigger, more expensive, problems in the long run. That bike didn't die on tickover, going by the extent of the damage to that piston/head. The head needs throwing in the bin, it's trashed. You might be able to get a tuner to alter the squishband and remove the detonation/debris marks from the head, but as it stands it's a glorified paper weight. The problem with running damaged heads such as that, is that it encourages detonation, even if the jetting appears to be correct. In other words, it's just a shortcut to a blown engine, doubly frustrating when it's freshly built. My advice, don't scrimp on critical components, it'll just come back to bite you. You could spit the cases and inspect the components for wear. If all is in order then you may not need to renew (although I would anyway). You could just inspect it in situ and see if the float is okay and if the big end bearing is damaged by checking for play. No way to tell about the mains or crankcase seals without tearing it apart. If debris has contaminated the seals then it will never idle/run right.
  • 1998 TDR 125 4FU Engine Cutting Out When Warm

    7
    0 Votes
    7 Posts
    2k Views
    L
    @SpookDog I believe I have fixed it now. Swapped out the voltage regulator got it up to temps and it ran fine.
  • This topic is deleted!

    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    1 Views
    No one has replied
  • MPH Speedo wanted for 1998 DT 125R

    13
    0 Votes
    13 Posts
    4k Views
    P
    So the converter is only converting to match the KPH face then and not a real converter i.e. really changing to mph. Sounds like I need to find a proper MPH speedo after all! Don't suppose you have a good one you fancy selling? Appreciate your help as you have saved me a lot of aggro. Cheers
  • Dt200r oil pump

    4
    -1 Votes
    4 Posts
    2k Views
    S
    @old-boy-racer Don’t forget that the oil pump is calibrated to the carb. It’s the right amount of oil for the air-petrol mix going in. If you put a much bigger carb on I would start thinking about the oil pump… Do you get what I’m saying? The pump is running at 50:1 why would premixing at 50:1 be any different? Think about it 🙂 … PS what carb does the Dtr 200 run? Cause the pump is calibrated to the carb, not the cylinder…
  • DT125 re wheels conversion issue

    4
    0 Votes
    4 Posts
    2k Views
    markus.wM
    @jarvis2292 they will fit also.
  • Help me

    Moved help need help dt125r
    6
    0 Votes
    6 Posts
    2k Views
    CalumC
    @Hybrid_Theory01 It won't be the gearing, it'll be the starter. It's the same as if you bump start your motorbike in reverse then it'll go in reverse. So the kick starter mechanism probably isn't correct. Although, I cannot visualise how this can be the case. I can't see how the gearbox can be assembled in such a way, so the only thing I can think of is the engine going around the wrong direction.
  • Very Smokie

    17
    0 Votes
    17 Posts
    5k Views
    S
    @SpookDog Now there’s some miles on it We’ve been opening it up a bit. Still running Kmh clocks and I kinda know they will be out but with me pushing 14 stone that’s close to 90kg in new money with jacket helmet boots n gloves it’s revving out in 5th and pushing 9.5k in top well into the 120-130kmh. So I’m well happy. One thing I am really pleased about is it’s still pulling past the power through the gears and it didn’t drop past 8k with a bit of an incline. I’m sure if I was 17 again weighing in at 10 stone wet it would be well into the red. The exhaust tone from the full DEP just makes you want to blast it everywhere
  • Engine identification required

    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    885 Views
    No one has replied
  • Carb coolant lines

    3
    0 Votes
    3 Posts
    2k Views
    Deigo27D
    @markus-w cheers mare just wanted to be 100% sure, just cleaned carb today n was full of varnish looking petrol cos bikes been sat ages, jets were blocked too really dirty tbh! Cleaned n refitted but just looped head hose to other head pipe n done same with carb pipes.. I'm in Scotland, cheers mate👍🏼
  • Dt 125 1993 How to derestict

    4
    0 Votes
    4 Posts
    2k Views
    CalumC
    @markymar https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/578/derestricting-guide
  • Front forks help PLEASE!

    4
    0 Votes
    4 Posts
    1k Views
    CalumC
    @perky Yes, that's what someone said the other day. The DTX Runs a Brembo Caliper too, which won't fit DTX forks.
  • forks

    11
    0 Votes
    11 Posts
    3k Views
    F
    @calum pulled it out to get a pic ended up pulling legs to see what crack is, dtx stanchions are shorter, the insides are slightly different too ive added a shim/washer ontop of the springs seems to have lifted it abit but still not quite there, not sure how to upload a pic as it says its too big of file
  • Yz mudguards

    3
    0 Votes
    3 Posts
    2k Views
    NottsbikerN
    Fit fine on the 125 only need drilling if UFO or Acerbis etc Put one on my DT200WR but had to cut the back of it down as it hit the rads :(