I meant the wiring for the bulbs. Thank you for the picture, the problem was that the diagram I found showed that the brown wires aren't supposed to be connected (brown from the thermometer, oil bulb, neutral bulb), mine showed that the thermometer needed to be connected to the oil bulb and that the neutral bulb brown needed to go straight into the 6pin connector, without connecting to the oil bulb or the neutral bulb. I didn't understand that but the diagram you sent made everything completely clear, thank you!

Hi there, Pretty sure the RPMs as far as the CDI are concerned are determined by the pick-up/magneto. So when you switch the ignition on and off, the powervalve does a cleaning cycle. Once this cycle is complete and the engine is running the valve should return into its closed state. If it is not, then it's possible that the powervalve wires have been inverted and the powervalve hasn't been adjusted properly. I feintly recall this being a common problem back in the day.

..and you need the battery too, not just the regulator. Forgot to write that

Thanks for that I ll go through it at weekend

I'm sure someone here will be able to point you in the right direction. What we've been seeing in recent times are a lot of DTRs being imported from Europe, these can come with subtle differences, this may be the case here. This is the 3NC wiring diagram. [image: 52172141696_84e3b69382_b.jpg] I only have a Haynes manual so can't speak for what other diagrams look like. I have also hosted the workshop manuals here: https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/3258/yamaha-dt125r-200r-workshop-manual https://training.dt125r.co.uk/files/Yamaha_DT125_Workshop_Manual.pdf This may be useful.

Hi Calum, the OEM coil I ordered has arrived from Fowlers but the clear autolube pipe I ordered from e bay has not arrived. It is showing as running late when I check the tracking. I do not want to start the bike until the clear oil tube is fitted and bled so I am at the mercy of Royal Mail. Assuming the bike will run the only thing left to do is a couple of bulbs and then it should be ready for its MOT. I will fit a new plug cap similar to the one you show.

Thanks for that info Rallyfinnen

Definitely go the OEM route for sure.

@Kristóf said in POS mode on switch: So does this mean that with the main switch to ON and the lights switch to POS it should light up the auxiliary light even with the engine off? No, lights switch to POS with the main switch to ON only illuminates the auxiliary light/tail light with the engine running because with the switches in these positions, the auxiliary and tail light receive an AC feed from the stator via the yellow/red wire. @Kristóf said in POS mode on switch: I'm asking this because my auxiliary light works when the main switch is to PARK but it doesn't work with the lights switch to POS Yes, this is because with the main switch in the PARK position, the auxiliary and tail lights receive a DC feed directly from the battery via the red wire (which connects to blue/red at the main switch in PARK). It took me a long time to fully understand this so glad I'm able to explain it properly!