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  • Head scratcher

    0 Votes
    30 Posts


    Mine was like it when I first sussed out it was removable. It was caked in what looked like cement dust!
    I’m glad you got it running sweet again 😜

  • 3 Votes
    198 Posts
    Stevie WonderS

    @HOTSHOT-III said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):

    @Stevie-Wonder “The vacuum bleeder could be sucking air down the bleed nipple threads and into the hole at the bottom of the bleed nipple. I'd forgotten this but I once tried sucking the fluid out with a syringe and it did this, took me a long time to figure out.”

    Ahh! I was starting to assume that something wasn’t quite right to be honest, having managed to bleed my brakes myself with no problems I thought it’s only fair to assume it must be getting air in somewhere else. I’d just thought that the seal from the hose to nipple wasn’t enough for the Vacuum against it.

    “You can improve this and prevent corroded/snapped bleed nipples by liberally applying copper grease to the threads when you install them. Put a fat O-ring between the caliper body and 8mm hex head with a bit more copper grease when you've finished bleeding as well and they'll crack off with no drama in two years' time.”

    That’s a pretty simple fix. Braided lines are pretty cheap for the DT/WR and now I’m confident that I’ve got the hang of bleeding brakes I was thinking of getting some so I’ll take advantage of being able to do that whilst the hoses are off. Only trouble is what colour do I pick? I was thinking blue or orange to match the decal.

    “Couldn't help noticing your stock pipe/DEP silencer joint above the battery; is it sealing?”

    If I remember correctly, the outer diameter of it is smaller than that of the dep back box and I’ve just left it there for the sake of it however I did get lucky with my dep as it’s a very tight fit (i understand Dep’s are not always the best like that) so I’ve never really had any trouble. Even when I was running the Dep expansion chamber it was such a tight fit the worst I got was a little bit of black soot on the battery tray.

    great bit of kit to be honest, for the money I’m very impressed. Cheers for the heads up I’ll be buying one. I’ve been doing a bit of an inventory check with my tool box and noticed a lot of bits and bobs missing.

    Despite having a family of mechanics I never got taught about the different tools, drives etc etc so I’ve ended up with a lot of mismatch bits and incomplete sets. Sometimes it feels like I spend more time trying to find the right tool then I ever do working 😂

    Having ADHD and Asperger’s is a killer in that respect though, you put something down you was just using to do something and instantly forget what you’ve done with it and if it’s anywhere but it’s usual place I end up having to do a 15 minute search everywhere as apparently I like hiding things from myself 😂. Hopefully I’m not the only one who does this though.

    I have found some magnetic socket organisers which go on the side of my toolbox, since having them I’ve spent a lot less time searching for stuff and the fact I can just press the ratchet into the socket and quick change them as they’re stuck on the outside is really convenient

    Jake who I bought the guides etc from asked me how I’m doing for suspension/ forks, unfortunately though I just don’t have the spare cash to buy them. Plus they’re one of those things where as much as I’d love to buy them and store them in the loft I know the same will only happen again. Sourcing another pair would definitely be easier than re-chroming them.

    I'm not certain but I think those stanchions unscrew from the wheel/brake bosses (they'll need to for chroming). I once changed one on a GSX-R400SP GK76A (I had bent forks but wanted to retain the SP rebound adjuster and could only find standard forks at the breakers) and it required a lot of heat to get it to move, I think it was held in with some kind of industrial strength Loctite. Once undone there was a O-ring to seal the joint and a thin shim underneath the stanchion. I reassembled it with a new O-ring and loads of JB Weld but someone somewhere will know the torque setting for this, maybe fire off a few emails to some of the tuning shops in the States like Pro Circuit etc.?

    Understand your point about slight oiling protecting the fork stanchions but it can also "protect" your front brake and for this reason an alert MOT tester will fail you for pitted forks. A bit of GT85 on a rag after every rain/mud ride and after washing should stop the corrosion and give your seals an easier life.

    With the alloy swingarm, I’ve already got a DT200WR swingarm and went through a total ball ache trying to find out what it was (info for the DT200WR is nearly always in Japanese and the only real English speaking community for them is in Costa Rica). The person that sold it listed it as DT/Yamaha swingarm and said he was going to use it for his DT. Only issue is before selling it he took it upon himself to raw it all so it needs sandblasting and powder coating. Sounds daft but I love the look of it, by comparison to the WR200 which uses the snail chain adjusters the DT200WR uses a more modern axle block style.

    Whilst the snail adjusters are very practical and simple to use. I wanna give the ‘ole DT a slightly updated feel. Like a 90’s/00’s OEM+/Factory works type
    of vibe.

    “Definitely agree messing about with stuff like this gives a greater high than going out and getting wasted with the "In Crowd". Sat here writing this on a Friday night after spending all day on a wheel build and life feels pretty agreeable”

    Agreed. I’ve spent so much money over the years doing just that and now all that money I would’ve been spending goes on bikes.

    Speaking of wheels, I think a set of sumo’s and replacing the excel 19” with an excel 18” is what I’ll do next.

    A set of DTX wheels I think is my best option as then I can still have a working speedo, if I laced 17” wheels to the standard WR hub the reading would be wayyy out and as far as I know no one makes a converter for when this happens.

  • 4BL flywheel removal

    0 Votes
    6 Posts

    First gear, back brake on. I use a half inch socket with a slide bar, apply pressure to take up the ‘slack’ then a sharp tap with a rubber mallet usually does it…

  • Wheels and Suspension

    0 Votes
    10 Posts

    This how tall it is right now

  • Forum Outage

    Forum Related Issues
    3 Votes
    79 Posts

    Forum patched upgrade. I addressed an issue where some of the links were broken. Shout out to @Arite for letting me know what the fix was.

    As usual, you'll need to clear your browser cache and refresh.

  • Restrictions

    0 Votes
    9 Posts

    @Calum said in Restrictions:

    @tunertom Yeah that inlet manifold is a load of tosh, but don't discount Scrim, he knows his shit.

    @CYBER-NINJA haha yeah I did chop my exhaust up and removed the cat, but oh my seriously those pipes have some serious weight, so if not for the performance the weight alone is worth swapping out lmao!

    Hi I have his destruction manual and seems mostly since 🙂

  • Honda CRM125

    4 Votes
    31 Posts

    what are the four restrictions?

  • Turn off switch

    0 Votes
    4 Posts

    The engine stops when the connection is made, ignition is earthed. I don’t understand what your problem is?
    If you disconnect the kill switch the bike will still run…
    If you disconnect the ignition key block connector the bike will run but have no lights…
    Just fit the button and try it…

  • 1 Votes
    31 Posts

    Annoyingly genuine clutches always seem to be out of stock. Actually not much meat left on the original one (it's done well to be fair). PJME recommend genuine as the best, but if they can't get them in stock...then needs must.

    Ferodo is a good brand though and I'm not expecting RS 125 power here and it will never be dailied in my ownership so should be fine...

    Ordered one of these for my RS125 years back (Billet Clutch Pressure Plate). I bought this a long time ago too and it's just been sat gathering dust. Not sure if it actually makes any difference, but it's a nice little item.

    Either way it's got to shave off some precious weight from a reciprocating mass, alongside the titanium bolts. Although the stiffer clutch springs probably add some weight back win some you lose some.

    Hhmm, I honestly don't know what a previous owner done to this bike, but they just covered everything THICK with paint. After much scrubbing and cleaning I...abandoned that idea and bought new/used parts instead.

    Brand new TYGA sprocket cover and generator cover. I bought a used generator cover off of eBay for an RS125. sprayed it black and affixed the carbon fibre generator cover on. The original engine is black, and I want to keep the bike close to its original colour scheme/trim where possible, but it'll never be original.

    Can't find what I done with the kickshaft seal or gear linkage seal, so will need to get those on order.

    The oil sight glass had melted, so I'll need a new one of those and will grab some new oil fill and clutch adjustment cover as well as a oil drain bung.

  • ATHENA 170cc

    0 Votes
    13 Posts

    Thanks for all the info sounds absolutely perfect for me, I'll definitely buy!

  • crank noise

    0 Votes
    15 Posts


    Like Callum said, use a flywheel puller to push the crank in and separate the cases. DO NOT use a screwdriver or chisel, please!…

    A rubber mallet is usually enough for me…

  • Yamaha Tdr125 fork upgrade?

    0 Votes
    3 Posts

    Awesome Thanks million!

  • Bogging

    0 Votes
    13 Posts


    Ok i will try everything ……… I will find it 😂🤣

  • 0 Votes
    4 Posts
    Mr ShadiM

    @SpookDog thank you for the advice lad. The dude is selling the shock because he managed to ride it so hard that it broke in half lol.

  • So Close!...

    3 Votes
    1k Posts

    @SpookDog It's definitely bled properly?

  • Powervalve fully open

    Top End
    0 Votes
    16 Posts

    My 3nc is fine as well. But nobody said they were bad. Just that the 3mb were a tadpole better 😜 …
    With the early bikes a fat strong spark can make a real difference. As soon as I put my lights on it zaps my tick over. I can see it going from blue to orange in my minds eye! …

  • 0 Votes
    7 Posts

    Gorgeous color scheme!

  • 0 Votes
    25 Posts


    Apart from a lot of shame and embarrassment?

    I had to call my (lovely!) Siss to bring out some petrol cans, empty the tank on the side of the road, nip to the garage and refill the tank. Started second kick.
    The massive plumes of white smoke cleared up in less that a klick! 🙂

    It was a place I’d never been to before and all the hoses were black (BP?) I saw the ‘supreme’ and fuxed up!

    But it was my fault, not the bike. If anything it was a trooper for getting me 2 miles down the (unwalkable because of flyovers) dual carriageway before ‘puffing’ out!
    I use my mirrors more now! 😜 💨💨💨

  • 3 Votes
    1 Posts
    No one has replied
  • engine piston check

    0 Votes
    73 Posts


    Kinda pisses you off when your recently ‘rebored’ piston used to rattle back and forwards in the barrel, doesn’t it?! I had the same experience buying a REBORED barrel & piston.
    I’m very particular about who does my rebores now…