DT125R FORUM

Hi, thanks for the help it's a 1998, the one I have goes into the intake boot with a peice of tube which I would guess and say is around 250mm in length then the chamber sat on top. Will get some photos tonight

@Calum yea the thing is that I have heard that the German version uses a diffrent cdi from other regions and I haven't found a guide on how to derestrict the cdi on a German one

There are wiring diagrams and manuals around on this site. Try searching using the built in search. Another great tip is using Google In Google search engine do site:dt125r.co.uk wiring diagram 6 wire and let Google indexing do the heavy lifting.

Float valve height sounds like it needs adjusting.

@DeeTeeArr Definitely do a full carb clean including the emulsion tube (the brass tube the main jet screws into). A lot of people (including bike shops) miss this and don't realise it comes out because you have to screw the main jet back in without the brass washer and tap it gently to remove it from the carb body. The space between this and the carb body gets blocked with moisture, dirt etc and blocks more and more holes in the tube (which is how the air atomises the fuel) until it just starts fourstroking and won't rev out one day as this controls the mid-throttle fuelling. Just chucking it in an ultrasonic cleaner usually isn’t enough; you have to actually remove everything from the carb body, physically make sure all the jets and air passages are clear, then reassemble. Make sure the air supply to the emulsion tube is clear as well, it's the small brass tube on the right of the carb body just in front of the carb-to-airbox rubber. You should be able to blow through it, but only just. I'd also echo what @calum said; it shouldn't really be necessary to re-jet just for a DEP exhaust and the OEM TM28SS is the best option for the DTR if you can save it. It's well worth soaking the carb body and all the jets in alloy wheel cleaner for a day or so as this always brings carbs up like new even when people restore bikes twice the age of the DTR.

I can't say I am very familiar with thise pipes sadly. I have been away from the tuning scene for these bikes for many years now. It's been years since I've even ridden my DT to be fair.

Zeeltronic easily the single best upgrade for my DT

Hey! I know I'm late but I have a 1988 Yamaha DT125R swiss edition, which has the 3DD code. I checked the parts diagram and the 3DD-14610 pipe is originally the 1988 swiss edition pipe, which is supposed to be heavily restricted. I'm pretty sure mine only has a catalytic converter, I was hesitating about cutting it open but now that I saw your pictures I think there's no reason to do so. Your pictures look like the pipe really only has a catalytic converter. But I must ask, were there any restriction cones or washers that you didn't take a picture of? Thanks!

I meant the wiring for the bulbs. Thank you for the picture, the problem was that the diagram I found showed that the brown wires aren't supposed to be connected (brown from the thermometer, oil bulb, neutral bulb), mine showed that the thermometer needed to be connected to the oil bulb and that the neutral bulb brown needed to go straight into the 6pin connector, without connecting to the oil bulb or the neutral bulb. I didn't understand that but the diagram you sent made everything completely clear, thank you!

@Calum said: You can measure the coil to see if it's within tolerance, what I was finding was that from cold it would work a treat, but once under load and warmed up, it would fail to fire above 4k RPM. Okay good to know. So even my measurements looks okay to me I thought about that it might not be okay under load anymore. But I didn't want to manipulate any plugs just to measure under load. @Calum said: I've had this before with a faulty ignition coil. These can still be bought brand new from Yamaha and I highly recommend going for genuine coil over an aftermarket one. The aftermarket one I had led me on a wild goose chase trying to figure out the intermittent faul Do you have any link or shop? Thanks

Hi I always wanted to have wr200 or a Lanza very difficult to find and end up with dt200R. Your bike looking great.

@hensmaxim Just contact him directly via Facebook or something, he did my pipe for me silly cheap.

I'm not familiar with the market, but a cylinder piston combo with all the work ready to go has got to be £300+. Any more than that then I wouldn't understand why someone wouldn't go for a brand new Athena 125 kit, or a little extra for the 170 kit. The Zeeltronic, new they're around £240, so with the programmer I'd say £160ish is what I'd pay, otherwise I'd just go new. Hope that helps.

Oh how annoying! I've seen this before when people have incorrectly set up the YPVS servo and stripped the teeth on the gears. It's probably easier to just buy another YPVS servo sadly than trying to find the individual cog. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/307114030022?_skw=Yamaha+DT+125+R+YPVS+servo&itmmeta=01M0T0CTAKVKYBVERW4KK9HKJQ&hash=item47816c33c6:g:QqIAAeSwkVdqdvO2&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDV5F88zNLFmQlOj5cc4%2FxlPVfMrS0CX9zdgmCMx0exrIiMBYEnl2C70gEhZcvwr3BYq%2BewLJHyMjxf%2BATBLTUnAq5B4Os%2FAuVyeOUNpVSRYxblUNuwL%2BjqWn0F95mbpkEWkXEDU%2F4blrRDuajNXDPVd8py1aTbWsSecsyFqwFQqqWjrgMG65s52PTjh2LPZ%2FOmWbQsy4dMVcVkq6VX2lCX6cdUUBN6SMPZHm3xNkDwYsJXuOa1TCyyOEaSwcuLKfJrQwb9YP1PtVMNdQS0UqCxAXfBI4hQNMZjPJwu4V6qdKAjffzCnESPO3DSoS0%2FsfE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9als8CGaA If you have access to the a 3D printer, or are capable on CAD, you might be able to 3D print a new set of teeth, setting the TPU to 100% fill should be strong enough to cope with the demand. My 3D printer is pretty darn accurate so it would probably do a fair go at it to be fair.

@Carl-Kennedy hello, I had the same problem. Found out that someone ripped out the mechanical gears out of it, you can try that. And if you happenned to have them, could you please tell me the dimentions of the gears? Thanks

@elan-n Too much to list. [image: 342%20-%20xp34p3D.jpg] I've done basically most things to it, the thing that's impressed me the most is specifically the Zeeltronic ignition system. I have like 5 of those CDI units now as they're excellent! I fit them to all of my bikes. Single biggest bang for buck. I've done everything to it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZ1C_xCmqWg&pp=ygUbVGhlIGxldmlhdGhhbiBQcmplY3QgZHQgMTI1 (build video). I've ran TZR R 4DL Belgarda setup, to ported Athena 170 kit. I'd say, if you dampen your expectations, then the Athena kit is next inline (after exhaust setup). This is because, whilst it's not rip roaring tear your arms off performance, it gives you more low-end grunt and that suits my setup better. I have my RS for all out smoker power.

Thx mate I’ll have a look