DT125R FORUM

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Yeah, I hear that the bargains at Lidl get great reviews.

@HOTSHOT-III Would definitely like to see that. Would make for an interesting build for sure. I was surprised to see cast pistons in this kit, but apparently I have to junk them anyway to go with the stroker kit I bought as the wrist pin offset is different. So I've got a few more things to buy before this is called done.

Snooping around the house I found these items [image: HwZdTZw.jpeg] I shudder think what I spend on these things and I don't even remember half the time! This is a sort of budget build though. [image: YGR0dxG.jpeg] I ummed and arred but I was just going to reuse the handlebars that came with this bike. They're in pretty bad shape, but easy enough to replace should I want to put some prettier ones on. Front wheel fitted, front brake disassembled, need pads and it'll be good to go. [image: SyyH0qs.jpeg] Front tyre looks good, so happy to reuse this for the moment. Just needs pads. [image: iGR4VtG.jpeg] I would have got the rear wheel fitted, but ran out of steam. Save that for next weekend.

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@Calum I remember you having a Li-ion bonfire but the thing I’m most interested in is the old AC/DC bikes that have three coils on the stator. The ignition coil is horizontal on the top of the stator. The lighting and charging coils are at a V at the bottom of the stator. I don’t claim to understand it but the lighting & charging coils are both numbered the same in the Haynes manual and seem to be connected, unlike the ignition coil which seems to be more isolated. It would seem to have something to do with my investigation into why my headlight dims badly (when I have a FUBAR battery) when I use the brake lights, horn or indicators. I’m hoping that the short life of my battery’s is down to the Reg/Rec being of the oriental OEM variety that’s always been on the bike since I got it. Like the lighting coil being burnt out. It’s the last gremlin on the bike since I got it as a basket case back when the pandemic started. Unfortunately my multi metre chose this time to die, just when I want to check the coils…. The later DC only bikes (anything with more than 3coils) don’t apply to me, unfortunately ….

https://www.devmoto.com/devmoto-solutions-electriques/materiel-electrique/boitiers-dallumage-cdi-ou-tci/boitiers-prets-a-brancher/yamaha-dtr-125/

@facundo-duarte There are loads of unused block connectors all over my 1988. Just cause it’s there doesn’t mean it HAS to be used… Your jetting is perfect for a late model Mikuni 28mm flatslide… I’d try removing the side of the air box yourself (don’t take somebody else’s word on it) and remove the the foam element. They fall apart over time, especially the aftermarket ones…. They need cleaning with solvent, or petrol but make sure it’s proper dry. Then you have to wet it with oil and squeeze out all the excess…

@detsinomistaja He also could modify them YPVS flanges to work with boost ports.

Well are you sure it's beyond repair? I mean it has to be pretty bad for that to be the case?

@gazza76 the neutral switch is part of the side stand curcuit. its when you take it out of neutral and put it into gear that it cuts out the engine, i think. someone who has one fitted would be more 100% more definite than me who doesnt have one fitted... its probly best to follow the wires from the side stand switch and see what they leed to...

Sad times You still doing this on your sisters drive?

@Calum Thank you saved me some time looking around as I bought a dt and within less than 3 days it blew up and needed a top end rebuild and also the electrics and the water pump needed redoing hence why I wanted the '94' manual

@Calum I think it was a false alarm, I went out to the garage today and it's cleared up

My graphics on my RE are TMX. Fitted them about 8+ years ago and they're still holding up really well.

@BalnAndCantGetUp Yeah, the problem is, is the way they are and what are you have are two different things. The way Yamaha intended the machine, and the way it ended up varied from its release in 88 to its discontinuation in 2007. I am merely recommending putting it back to how Yamaha originally envisaged the machine makes a lovely bump in performance with minimal degredation in reliability. So in the DTRE/X they put a huge honeycombe restriction in the exhaust expansion chamber. They gimped the YPVS to retard post 10K RPM, and the reeds are just a nice to have as they're cheap and easy to fit. That's all I was getting at. I had/loved mine in stock trim for a good while before I started fettling with it.

For you guys in the UK: https://www.gpxmotouk.com/shop-gpx.html They have the parts to convert the DTR to 230cc, can probably get the complete engine too. If I was thinking of a engine rebuild and/or Athena 170, I would go for this instead, based on what I learned from the Athena 170 kit.

Ok, thank you very much for the help. I am going to try some things. And pressing out the steering stem is a good idea, because the dt stem is 30 and the Husqvarna 25 so i can just mill the 30 mm stem to 25 and press it in. Thank alot.