DT125R FORUM

Hi @barron-1989, Great little project you have there. Looks as though it's coming together nicely now. Haven't seen anything on the For Sale section for years. These days it seems like FaceAche is your best friend here. The sale sections are not visible to members below a certain post count mind you, although I haven't looked at the settings since I set this website up over 10 years ago. These are cracking little machines, it won't take you long to get her ticking over nicely that's for sure. What bits are you after just out of interest?

Shouldn't be too difficult. [image: s-l1600.jpg] You see the little dot on the balancer shaft cog, that should align with the corresponding dot on the crank gear. On the DTR, it's like the piston is at TDC for the dot to align. But should be simple enough.

Slow slow progress on this. Made a bit of a push on this the last couple of weeks. [image: chainFitted.jpg] New Renthal chain fitted. Bought some nice Apico foot rests and refitted/bled the front brake system. No surprises, but the original brake caliper was shot, completely seized solid.I managed to source another one, but one of the pistons was stuck. Once I addressed that, I found I was unable to pressurise the system, the master cylinder was shot. These bikes share the same master cylinder as the Cagiva Planet, but I was unable to source one of those for a reasonable price. I ended up getting a KTM Duke 390 front master cylinder as the closest match I could find. Front brake now bled and working. Bought lovely Hel lines front and back. The rear master cylinder's wiring loom was shot to buggery. The banjo switch was all snapped and the wires were merely soldered onto the bolt. A new genuine bolt, wire harness restored, then I designed and 3D printed the cover to secure it all into place. [image: banjoBoltCover.jpg] Need to reattach the rear brake master cylinder fluid reservoir and see what surprises are in store for me for the rear Hoping to continue to make progress on this as it's basically done. Just need to find original panels (or refurbish my ones for now).

@hotshot-iii hey, before assembly i adjusted the float height to 16-16.5mm according to the maintenance manual. I went through all ignition related cables and switches but nothing out of the ordinary. No corrosion etc... Also installed a genuine replacement coil and measured the primary and secondary winding just to be sure haha. The plug chop was done at 10k rpm. Did it a lot with mopeds to check if the main jetting was right. Today it was less hesitant to pull through so it went better when i just gave it full throttle from the go. This was after i finished the idle configuration with the screws. Steady +-1.6k rpm like the manual says and the air mixture screw is just about right. Temperature is very stable +-70 degrees celcius and its stay like that after driving almost an hour long. Im suspecting 2 things that are happening, correct me if im wrong haha. 1st thing is my powervalve that is opening a little bit to slow, i feel if they once open up, i can hear it and feel it and i can give them beans without any problem. Tohe other thing is maybe im running too rich in the lower rpms?

@reudtr88 The seller is right, the spacers and caliper bracket are narrower than the DT125R versions. The bench mock-up in the pics above comprised a 3ET DT200R swingarm, caliper hanger and spacers mated to a DT125R hub. As you can see the 428 sprockets lined up quite well (I also had to use a 3mm thick M20 washer between the caliper hanger and swingarm to get it as good as it could possibly be with the items I had to hand).

@Calum I hope you can find some time for that. It must indeed ride great with all those mods

That's so cool! It's been ages since I have been on my DT. I ought to sort the bits out on it and get it up and running again. My ETX is close to being done as well and that thing will rip when it's finished

Hi Calum, the OEM coil I ordered has arrived from Fowlers but the clear autolube pipe I ordered from e bay has not arrived. It is showing as running late when I check the tracking. I do not want to start the bike until the clear oil tube is fitted and bled so I am at the mercy of Royal Mail. Assuming the bike will run the only thing left to do is a couple of bulbs and then it should be ready for its MOT. I will fit a new plug cap similar to the one you show.

@Rallyfinnen ciao, grazie per il tuo post. Anch'io vorrei installare il 230 sulla mia TDR125R per avere più potenza. Rimango in attesa di tuoi cortesi aggiornamenti. Grazie

Hi John, Sounds like a lovely little time machine you've got there. Cracking bike and very very reliable, if it's not working, then it'll be something very simple and I am sure we'll be on hand to answer any questions you may have in an attempt to get you on the road again.

Thanks for that info Rallyfinnen

Definitely go the OEM route for sure.

@DTGREENLANER I'd say that's a dry bearing inside the servo somewhere, I think they can be taken apart and the gear train serviced. Never done one myself but it's pretty much a scaled-up RC car servo, just take your time and lay everything out in the order you removed it and you should be all good. Southeast Asia is full of DTRs, DT230 Lanzas etc. and some of those guys repair the servos quite often.

Yeah, I used a Honda CR85 Apico one on mine. I though the YZ 125 ones didn't fit.

@HOTSHOT-III thanks

Not familiar with a 1994 DT175 (I presume this is from the Asia (Far East) market). The oil light will just be for the two stroke. There are no sensors that do gearbox, the most you get is a Neutral Light sensor (if you're lucky). For the gearbox oil, the only sensors you see are with your eye balls and the oil sight glass. I can't 100% say this is the case, but I say it with high confidence that this will be the case. Hopefully that's useful. Calum