Am legal @ long last! Only my CBT stands between me & nirvana! Two stroke heaven! ...

@89dt125nick

The neutral wire is blue and you should connect it to the switch behind the gear change lever.

The side stand wire shouldn’t be earthed! On my bikes (1988-96) loom it is just not connected and everything runs fine.

The kill switch basically earths the wire to kill the engine. Your wiring isn’t right yet if it only sparks when earthed.

Can you remove your rotor and look at the stator plate? Or do you have a metal side cover with the stator in it, in stead of behind the rotor? Also can you please look for markings on the CDI unit?
Do you have a key ignition switch connected?

We’ll get it running yet bud!

@jonne123

No disrespect meant from the start! But I’m guessing that you’re about 17 and haven’t ridden a great deal of bikes?
Every 125 Has been restricted to about 12bhp since the late 80’s AFAIK. Any bike that is significantly above that has been de-restricted and/or tuned.
You can unrestricted early dtr’s by ‘pinning’ the power valve open. This will give you higher bhp but will basically make the throttle an on/off button with terrible response.
Later bikes I don’t know as much. You can unrestrict them and the variable power valve will still give you better low rev torque/response (I’m guessing that is what you mean by throttle response?)

Do some reading up on deristricting your year model bike, then do some riding. Stop worrying about numbers bud, enjoy a wicked little bike for what it is, before yearning for more...

@Stevie-Wonder

I learned to change gear on a dt50mx, 14 years old on the local rugby field. 2 nights later I was riding it round the town pitch black in the middle of winter. I ended up falling in love with 2/‘S, has more Vespas and lambrettas than I can remember. Margate is one of the places I’ve actually ridden to, never had any problems cause nearly all my scooters were chopped ️

I met an old boy with one leg through buying DTR bits on fleabay, he used to race 2/‘S he’s got a Dt LC with an rd200 twin engine in it! Also a beautiful unmolested kh350 (iirc) I’ve never seen one of before. As well as a mystery covered bike I haven’t asked about yet. He only lives a few miles away from me. There are definitely some really interesting old souls out there!...

@spookdog

500 miles run in

Better pic!

I only got this in May, but it’s MoT time tomorrow!

Eye exam in the afternoon so I can read a number plate @21 metres. CBT in a week with luck...

Am insured, so only tax needed as well...

It’s been 25 years since I was last legal on a bike, so I’m pretty excited...

I didn’t think mounting the clocks was a problem, I thought it was the drive gear wheel/spacer that meshes to the Yz wheel?...

@crispy

You see where the clutch cable connects to the engine? There is a little bundle of wires coming out there? These need to be checked for continuity.
Also check the wire to the coil. Also ones around the CDI unit...

Can’t really help any more. My wiring is 2 generations before yours!. Good luck...

PS have you wd40’d your ignition barrel!
Give it a good wash and turn the key back n forth

@chris
Think of tri-age, like war medics do. Does it really need the amount of attention, that could be better used on something else?...
I’d just wire brush it down, then satin black it. Job done. I’m just as guilty of over thinking things sometimes 🤪 check out Sound Blaster horns ...

The screw/nut adjusts the sound/pitch, like said...

Head gasket blown again! Second time in two months. I’ve had problems with 3 different barrel and head combinations. The only common factor is me and the antifreeze/coolant I’ve used. I’m gonna guess it’s not the coolant

Weird thing is every single time it’s failed on the top/head side of the gasket. Between the head and gasket surfaces. Never between the gasket and the barrel...

This is the first time this combo has failed (3mbP head & barrel) and I never removed the studs to clean the top of the barrel (because I had a stud shear off on my last barrel) It’ll be interesting to see which side of the gasket failed this time...

@mhbikesnbits

Ditto. iPhone, same problem. Can’t get either buttons to work...

@Stevie-Wonder

Seriously bud?! Building another wheel is less hassle than changing a front sprocket? I think you’re over thinking something here. Seriously, drop a tooth at a time till you’re happy...

@andyjack

Ditto:
1 to 2
2 to 1

No idea why but it fucked me up in the beginning

@mhbikesnbits

I’m using a Slinky and it’s actually not bad. It is very unrestrictive and easy to channel. It’s super flexible...

In my very limited experience I would recommend it...

@mhbikesnbits

3/4 of a kilo is not to be sneezed at!

@Calum

The inlet manifold I have on the engine won’t even fit a 28 Mikuni, I’m guessing it’s for a 26mm carb? Same with the carb to air box rubber. This is why I need to find out the proper bits fitted to a 4HW (1993) bike. I really need to know if it’s a 4FU or 3MB barrel as well...
It’s only 10,000 miles on the clock but previous owners are an still able to fuck with a low~ish miles bike!

I need to know what goes where, to be able to put it right.

I can’t find info anywhere on the 4HW, how many years it ran, or anything. I don’t know if it’s the phone is not as good as a PC searching or I’m just an old git 🧐

Also carb?! 32 Dellorto or Mikuni flatslide?...

I tried the site but it’s not very phone friendly

I forgot to ask if the 4dl plastic is the same or fitable? I know the 3vx and 4FL are the same...

@theportingmaster

I wouldn’t mean to say power per se, it’s more the way it comes on. It just feels like a totally different animal. It reminds me of an old rd125lc I rode years ago. My old barrel had loads of usable torque in comparison...