I don’t think that it is. There’s no play on the lever, let alone sponginess, but I don’t think it’s getting the full pressure of the system at the pads. I can’t see any other reason…
47,125 miles today! That’s 34K since I’ve been riding …
I don’t think that it is. There’s no play on the lever, let alone sponginess, but I don’t think it’s getting the full pressure of the system at the pads. I can’t see any other reason…
47,125 miles today! That’s 34K since I’ve been riding …
Mine was like it when I first sussed out it was removable. It was caked in what looked like cement dust!
I’m glad you got it running sweet again
Wasn’t just the wrap. It was the gap in the resin around the wires. But yeah, I have no experience with later bikes RE was a boring class I had to sit through when I was 10 years old…
I hope you find the problem…
CDI doesn’t look right. I’ve never seen one with blue shrink insulation…
First gear, back brake on. I use a half inch socket with a slide bar, apply pressure to take up the ‘slack’ then a sharp tap with a rubber mallet usually does it…
Hey! Try running it with the ‘deristrict’ wire not earthed. See if there’s any difference…
The reed/read bulb refers to a dtr (don’t know what year) rev limiter…
PS have you cleaned out the jets and emulsion tube when you had the carb apart?…
I had a lot of problems with air getting in at the nipple. In the end I used softer, tight silicon tube for air tightness and put some sealant on the nipple threads…
Oily and black is rich mixture. Probably where you’ve played with the needle/carb settings…
You won’t see a break inside the insulation.
I don’t know much about your model but it sounds like it’s rev limiting itself. If the wire (green?) isn’t properly earthed, or connected to it’s proper place (CDI?) the CDI might be defaulting to a ‘safe’ mode. I’ve heard of similar problems with bikes with the rev limiter read bulb in the speedometer…
It’s the only thing I can think of if everything else is in good order like you said. It started off intermittent then failed completely…
You can do continuity testing with a multimeter. You may have to pierce the wire with a pin to make a testing point…
If there’s a break inside you won’t tell by reconnecting it. It’d be the same
What colour is the plug?
Is the spark good?
If you can’t dial in on the problem you’ll have to do a top end check eventually. Head off or at least check out the piston and rings through the exhaust port…
The ‘derestrict’ wire…
Have you checked the wire for breakage?
Yep! I used clear pink fuel hose and it was constantly covered in ‘condescending’
I thought it was the fluid attracting water cause it’s very ‘hydrophobic’ (don’t know the proper word!) because I couldn’t taste anything when I licked it 🤪
——————-
Even with the vacuum kit I had to remove the front master cylinder and the calliper (plugged the pads with an old disc) and make them as horizontal as possible before bleeding. Was a proper ‘Faff!’
I really need to do it again, because I can’t figure out why the front isn’t biting at the moment. It bites enough to dip the forks then is total bollox. Even with Brembo carbon ceramic pads. I even cross~cross sanded the disc with no results. I’m at a bit of a loss…
The engine stops when the connection is made, ignition is earthed. I don’t understand what your problem is?
If you disconnect the kill switch the bike will still run…
If you disconnect the ignition key block connector the bike will run but have no lights…
Just fit the button and try it…
The bottom legs will be different to take the bigger disc and calliper, no?…
I’d just get a 21inch rim laced to the existing hub if possible. To keep the upgraded brakes!…
They are spoked, aren’t they?…
PS It’s weird! I’d like to lower my rear by 5cm, just to level out the seat. It gives me ‘ball burn’ constantly slipping forwards!
Anything to lower my ‘barn door’ profile as well!…
I bought a cheap vacuum pump-bleeder to do the front, it was the only way to do it without removing everything and laying it flat on the floor! It works really well, I still pump the brake lever while drawing clean fluid through…
Do you mean bottom right as you sit on the bike? Do you have your pump connected or pre-mix?…
Power valve servo is battery operated. When my battery was flat it never used to open for the first couple miles, till the battery took a charge. Yours might be fluttering on/off a bit?…
PS Looking good! …
Post some pics…
Stock work fine with me.
I got a nice improvement in mid and (especially) low rev range torque. I never get tired of cruising along at just over 5K~RPM doing 60mph nice and lazily…
I’m sure a bigger carb would be a boon, but myself I hardly ever go over half~3/4 throttle, so it’d be wasted on me
I kinda think if you love WOT revving the nuts off of it, it’d be better sticking with the 3MB barrel…
Like Callum said, use a flywheel puller to push the crank in and separate the cases. DO NOT use a screwdriver or chisel, please!…
A rubber mallet is usually enough for me…
I don’t mean to offend.
Are you sure you’re up for this? Is this the first engine that you’ve worked on?
There are certain tools you need to dismantle the engine. Not to mention the damage you can do trying to remove bearings, even after you’ve successfully dismantled the casing…
They’re the ones to get. There is a type to get though, don’t get the ‘cs’ type (I think!)…
CRB023
These are the ones to get I think…