@declan Doesn't sound right either way. You will want to investigate that.

@stinkwheeler Yeah the wider, higher bars, can result in the throttle cable being too short. It would either need rerouting, or a longer one being made up. Along with everything else.

@declan Hard to explain the words.

No not really, but if the weight of the forks is not in the same direction as the forks, it'll cause resistance.

Drop the forks mate and go from there. You'll just risk damaging more components otherwise.

Also, put the nut on the triple clamps and protect the threads from the hammer blow.

Better off using a copper mallet to remove that if there is some resistance. Rubber mallet is just absorbing the impact too much. Use penetrating fluids to help remove the item.

@declan Forks removed from the bike. And the triple clamps removed. From the photo it looks like they're all still in place.

Normally no, you wouldn't really need to drop the forks, but in this case I'd recommend changing both the top and bottom taper bearings, since if the top one is worn, it'll wear the bottom one. So it's best to replace them at the same time for the pennies it'll cost you.

Once the triple clamps are removed you will have greater access at removing the bearing.

@declan Yeah it will, just do the job properly and stop moaning lol. It's easy.

@declan What you on about. Drop the forks and the yokes and it'll come right out no problems.

That's nothing. Should only be a taper roller bearing. £5 simply bearings.

@stinkwheeler Oh nice, unique graphics.

Fatbar was always dream for me. Worth the investment. Just make sure your cables are long enough.

@stinkwheeler Yeah I know mate, I just like to dish out the credit to others. We all draw inspiration from somewhere, it's nice to be referenced for my hard work. Thanks.

You need to determine where the play is coming from.

On my USD conversion, I had to shim the bottom bearing up 3mm so that the bearing came into contact with the race.