Hello All,

Introduction

So I know I keep spouting on about the updates to the forum, and yes these things take time.

I am not even through the first stages of these updates, but I've got plenty of ideas about what could be useful things to have.

I will take this opportunity to give a shout out to @Arite who has been spending time heading up designs for some of the systems more complicated features.

Scalar Vector Graphics

One of the things that I have been working on however, has started to take shape over the last couple of days.

The ability to view the parts diagram is no doubt an extremely useful feature, and it's probably one of the only reasons I use websites such as Fowlers.

I figured as this is the place for DTR's that we should in fact have our very own exploding diagrams.

Unlike all of the other parts diagrams available, I have instead opted to make these graphics Scalar Vector. Essentially what this means is that as you zoom in on the image, the image will redraw itself. This results in a crystal clear image every time.

Don't believe me?

Have a look at our Logo

Use Ctrl and the mouse wheel to zoom in on the image. Notice how it doesn't lose resolution

Integration With the DTR Forum

With that cleared up then, how is this going to be incorporated to the DTR forum.

I have created a dedicated section for these images to be stored.

Users will be able to navigate to this section, select the vehicle they're interested in, select the part, then explore the diagram in infinite detailing.

The beauty of having it in our community is that I have made it so that the parts are linkable to other members.

From the URL you can specify the bike and part that you are viewing, allowing you to help other members with the high resolution graphics.

This part is far from complete yet, there is still lots to do. I presume many users will be using their mobile devices, as such these high resolution images may impede performance. Work needs to be done to minimise the network payload too.

Since the SVG's total to around 120Mb per bike, I will have to ensure that alternatives are provided for those of you on lower power devices.

Conclusion

This is still very much in early days yet, the ideas will get revised and the layouts shuffled, but I feel that it's a feature worth investing time into.

I shall continue to make good progress on the extension to this forum, in due course time I will be releasing updates to this forum that should help keep the community alive.

Comments welcome.

Two long years

https://youtu.be/n8NCG4xdbqY

I would like to announce that @Mightyman has now become a moderator to the forum.

He's been with us since the launch of the new site and is always quick to spot things I miss.

Hopefully he can help out around here.

Cheers bud.

Hi Everyone,

Sorry for the recent outages I've been upgrading the machine and forum software, consequently something bad happened and the box refused to come back on line.

Some things during investigation grabbed my attention so I saw to them whilst fixing the issues.

We're now on the latest version of the forum software, but I can already see some potential bugs and what not.

I will keep an eye on them, and upgrade at the latest opportunity.

For now just bare with any bugs we see.

Kind Regards,

Calum

There it is ladies a d gents, The DT Forum. And above it the bastard thing that burnt out earlier lol.

Wow, there is always something else am I right?

This forum is really suffering from instability issues at the moment I have no ideas why.

I can't see anything in the logs to suggest that there is something wrong with the machine but I will continue to investigate.

I have ordered a new machine and new hard disk, so I will look to migrate the server to this very soon. The machine is also slightly faster so should be able to handle more concurrent users.

Sorry for the inconvinience guys I will do my best to try and resolve the issues we're having.

Kind Regards,

Calum

So unfortunately I broke my phone, but I borrowed a phone from a friend and took a few snaps of this little gem.

Soon, I am going to upgrade the forum software and buy a new computer for the forum and do a lot of other stuff.

@CYBER-NINJA So I am currenyly in the process of building a Hall of Fame section. Thisnwouod be a place where users can submit a photo of their bike to associate with profile.

Maybe this could be Owners Garage. Where users could up load photos of their vehicles along with information.

Not real, but had me ROARING!

https://i.redditmedia.com/dBYEWPGmI3mlSM3rcZUaeoCQK4ZNTaceF86ZQsJUvqM.jpg?w=320&s=341a165760895a28a27d2683bdbce76e

Forum Update

There is going to be a forum outage at some point this weekend.

The forums software has become out of date and I may as well update the machine as well.

I don't know how long this will take, or when I will actually get around to doing it. Either way if you find you can't access the forum, that'll be why.

It will all come back up on Monday.

Emails

As has been request, I will also get around to setting up the emails on this server so that they actually work. I shall try and include this for the outage this weekend

Hardware Update

Also, I would like to note, there will be another outage in the next few weeks or so. The hardware I am using is going to be upgrade for a faster machine and just a general refresh.

URL Change

I also intend to move the location of the forum to dt125r.co.uk/forum and instead have a home page not related to the forum software. This change is going to be massive under the hood, as all of the links are going to need to be changed.

When I actually do this latter change I don't actually know. As said I will have to buy a new computer and stuff so it's whenever I got the spare cash.

Website Upgrade

I do want to shake the web site up a little bit and offer more content, this will come over the course of the year, but in order for these changes to be accommodated, I must first invest in some new hardware.

Ultimately the majority of this work is not going to happen overnight, significant time is going to be invested to ensure that we do not lose the hard work we have put into this forum.

If there are any questions be sure to let me know down below

Regards,

Calum

@dinkydong The lack of privileges is because I don't take commission on you people using my site, instead I merely ask that users contribute to it.

If you want to sell your wares, then you must build up a relationship with the forum, or sell it on GumTree or eBay or BikeTrader.

Sorry it sounds harsh, but if I let you sell your bike on here, then I open the gates up to every man and their dog taking advantage of my good nature.

And that's no disrespect, that's just how it is.

Sorry.

So upping the Swap file has seemed to make a noticeable difference. Haven't encountered this database problem so far.

But as I say, it'll only be a matter of time.

Sorry people, SSL certificate expired. It does auto renew, but I have to reload the configuration for the settings to take and I have not needed to do that for a while.

I want to give a shout out to a good friend of mine @Arite for if it wasn't for him we wouldn't have this site up and running so fast.

It's thanks to him we have as much functionality as we do, he has also fixed our emoticons for us, and I didn't even ask him to!

Cheers for your help over the last few weeks relentlessly helping me setup this new site for us.

Jeez, how have I still not done this. Most of the SVG stuff is implemented now. I was just adding some mechanism so you can zoom and drag the image as you like.

I have spent many hours compiling all of the parts I could find for both the R and RE then making them completely scalable. So you should be able to examine the parts in infinite detail now.

No livelier than usual to be fair.

@Louis-James Yeah I've been working on this and have put in a lot of time on this over the last few days.

But there is still lots to do.

So there was actually quite a few issues, and upon resolving these issues my IP address has been changed.

So for anyone having issues accessing this site on certain platforms, it's because your machine is using cached DNS settings for the old address. Since we have a new address you will need to refresh the DNS. This should expire in due course time and sort itself out anyway..

They have supplied me with a new router. I've been told it could take up to 10 days for all the changes to propagate through and I must reboot the router then as well. I am told the issues have been identified and are being resolved, which is good news.

Sorry for the inconvenience, hopefully service will be resumed.

@Irongamer727 four years, 6 month, 24 days and 13 hours to be precise. What's your point?

Alright fine I will ring virgin tomorrow as this is unacceptable now.

It's the converse.

He is right, you will seize the engine coasting downhill.

However this is worse on oil pump bikes. Not premix.

The oil pump on the DT runs off the throttle cable. No throttle no oil, or very little. This isn't true for all bikes. On the aprilia the oil pump is driven directly from the crank. So it's relative to the rpm.

As said, the best way to keep the engine lubed, it's more than the crank, blip the throttle. You will find on a crosser it will foul the plugs as they are designed to be flat out all the time. Riding them on the road without caining them will foul the plugs.

The crank actually survives on very little oil. It's the cylinder walls and rings that require the modt amount of oil.

I run a RFX Honda CR85 one cause my bike is black and red.

I expect they do Yamaha one for White and Blue, but my bike is Black and red so this ties in nicely

I also run black and red APICO footrests

@Jens-Eskildsen I do it because each and every single one of you make it worth it.

A big thank you to everyone who contributes to the site. You guys make it all worth while.

Emoticons working again. Again had to quiz @Arite to get them working again. Very annoying.

I went to my mates lockup last night to sort some stuff out.

Failed to mention this absolute beauty hiding there...

He said the roof has been chopped down to give it this serious gangster look.

Needless to say, this is something special.

@irongamer727 I mean it's annoying enough as it is, you get these one hit wonders asking very trivial things that could have been found if they bothered to search for it lol.

But by all means, let me know of any ideas you might have.

I've got a few to boot as it is.

• Hall of Fame

  • Each user submits a photo

  • The photo is attributed to their account

  • The photo gets ranked and there is a leaderboard

• Members Garage

  • Seen this on another forum

  • Users can register past and present vehicles to a database

  • Allowing new and old members to find them and see how they're getting on

  • Nothing sensitive, but you can add as little or as much detail as you like

• Exploading Diagrams

  • We had the whole lot on the old forum

  • But they were just fixed PNG's

  • The ones I have made make them infinitely scalable allowing you to see the item in maximum zoom.

• Technical blogs

  • I want to create a place where technical blogs can be posted

  • Not open to commenting or critique, but a place where someone can go into great detail about a particular project.

Polish the combustion chamber, leave the piston crown alone!

Basically, the performance of an engine drops slightly when installing a new piston, when the piston crown is covered in carbon the performance goes back up.

The science is because Ally dissapates heat better. When you polish the crown you effectively build a resistance to carbon build up. When the carbon builds up it adds a layer. The layer of carbon is not very conductive, so heat takes longer to go through to the piston, and then to the cylinder walls.

In extreme cases this is bad, but when matched appropriately, the higher combustion tempertures causes higher combustion pressure, more pressure is then exerting on the piston, forcing it down and producing power.

However since the power is made in the combustion chamber, this wants be polished to resist carbon build up.

There is more science, if you're interested then I suggest you read Graham Bell's Two Stroke Performance Tuning.

@sgt-robuck-5 Don't forget the ignitech @Darty rates them.

I used Zeel because it came recommended to me.

I will be buying zeel for my upcoming project.

I've had problems with them, I contacted them and they sorted it out no quibbles.

Peace of mind.

How To Skim A Head

Due to this being a common issue I've decided to take the time to type up how I skim my barrels and heads. I've been doing this method for years and it seems to work a trick. By no means am I professional mechanic but I would like to share how it's worked for me.

Firstly I would like to say a few things:

• Remember it's a marathon not a race
• Take you time
• Be patient
• Don't force things

Be GENTLE

• The idea is to gently remove material
• Aluminium is malleable

Follow these steps and you should find success

So let's start:

Equipment

• Barrel
• Head
• Three Kinds of Wet and Dry Paper (Varying
• Completely flat surface (Ideally a sheet of glass)
• A jug of water
• Brush

Extension: Polishing Combustion Chamber

• Drill
• Polishing Tool
• WD40
• Autoglym Metal Polish

Start

Firstly find a suitable flat surface to mount the wet and dry paper to. You want to start with the coarsest first and work your way down to the finer grade.

Remember if the surface is not completely flat you will not be able to skim the item.

I don't have access to a flat workbench that has been CnC perfectly. The next best thing is a sheet of glass, which like most, I do have!

Place your sheet of wet and dry to the glass. Make sure it is completely flat onto the glass and tape it down.

Grab a bucket of water and a large brush

Apply a small layer of water to the wet and dry paper. Try not to over wet the paper. One dip of the brush of this size and apply all over was enough.

Grab the item in question:

So this is a spare 3BN head that Andy sold me. As you can see it's in a right old state and this method works really well to tidy it all up.

By Placing it face down start to rotate in circular motion over the wet and dry paper.

^^^^^^In this photo i'm using my 4DL head^^^^^^^

The 3BN actually went last so it's final effect is not as good as the 4DL head. But I don't intend on using the 3BN It was just a good example

*Back to the 3BN head*

This is the 1st pass of the wet and dry and remember this went after the 4DL head and Barrel had used the same wet and dry. So you should be seeing better results.

I didn't even wipe it in this photo but you can see it's already looking better.

Lay down your next sheet of wet and dry REMEMBERING to now use the next grade up (Always going finer and finer)

Again apply a layer of water to the paper like you did before and rotate the item in circular motion.

This is the second pass. I gave it a little wipe before I took this photo. Just so you can now start to see how much it's cleaned up by.

Again go the next grade up on the wet and dry paper (You should now be at your FINEST grade of wet and dry paper)

Apply some water to it like you did in the previous passes.

^^This is the FINEST grade ^^

Again rotate in circular motion

This is what the cylinder finished up like...

That ring of dirt by the water jacket HAS to go. Yours should have but because I had already used the same wet and dry paper to do a Barrel and a Head it was worn down by the time this one came to use it.

You should now have successfully skimmed your item. It ought to look better than that 3BN cylinder and I do have a photo of what the 4DL looked like after I finished. (The 4DL went first on the wet and dry so came up much better)

Extension

Whilst you have the cylinder head off you might as well go the extra mile and polish up the combustion chamber.

By Polishing up the combustion chamber you can reduce the build up of carbon and thus increase performance.

Here's how I do it.

Place the culprit into a vice and clamp it down using the engine mount and a rag to protect it. It's a good idea to place an object for the head to rest on whist you work on it.

Using a cheap polishing tool off ebay for about £5 you can begin to get rid of the surface carbon build up.

To aid this I applied some WD40.

This is a soft polishing tool that i've used on many cylinders and for £5 it seems to do the trick.

Rememebering to be gentle at all times. Let the Drill do the work not you. Keep applying more WD and you should get there.

You should end up with quite a clean looking cylinder head.

(Remember of course here i'm doing to a head that I have no intention of using so I didn't give it 100% but do have a photo of the 4DL which I did spend more time on)

You now want to begin polishing this combustion chamber.

Apply thin layers of Autoglym metal polish (or something similar)

And the again begin with the drill. Remembering at all times to be gentle and let the drill do all the work.

Once that layer of polish is all gone you can wipe it clean and apply some more and repeat the process. If you work hard enough you can end up with a mirror finish.

For the hard work you do and the pennies it costs to do you may as well.

I didn't do it too much on the 3BN as it is not in my interest too. But here is the 4DL that I was working on at the same time...

If I was really bothered I could work even harder and get that a mirror finish.

And there you go. You're finished.

Of course REMEMBER if your head has warped then chances are the cylinder has too. MAKE SURE YOU DO BOTH THE CYLINDER AND THE HEAD!

Get them both cleaned up and flush and that should see you a goodun.

I will of course reinforce the MUST use of genuine head gaskets, or ATHENA, upon the rebuild else all this work has been for nothing.

As said I'm no mechanic but this method has worked wonders for my warped barrels and heads. And if nothing elsethen it's a good way of getting the barrel looking swish.

I hope this comes of use to someone.

Thanks.

Calum

Chipping a little more off, but money is tighter than I was expecting.

Got some lovely bits in the post, but can't use them just yet.

Light weight Carbon Fibre sprocket cover. For an engine that is no where near built.

Light weight captive wheel spacers, some 100 grams lighter than the original, well every little helps.

As said, forgot to grab the photos of the wheels with rubber, helps the camera pick up the actual colour of the wheels.

I get it won't be to everyones taste, that's fine.

Rear linkage mated to the dog bones.

Counter sunk stainless steel hex head bolts for the seat lock. Won't be seen but at least I know it's fresh!

Battery box fitted to the brackets. Very snug fit with those new grommets.

All fitted to the frame using high quality titanium bolts.

The rolling chassis so far!

It's getting close to being able to wheel it into and out of the garage.

TYGA Rear Sets arrived...not cheap and didn't come with titanium bolts. So bolts ordered will let you see it on the bike when the decent bolts come.

Just to give you an idea of what they look like...

Please use this section to post problems that you are having with your accounts.

Due to the amount of people that private message me asking how they should fix their bike, I have been forced to disable chat messages from people I don't follow.

I am not trying to be funny/rude.

But I'm not here to diagnose faults.

I love helping out, but me telling people over a private message does not help other people with the same issue. Instead, they ask me, which means I then have to tell X amount of people, the same thing.

That's not what this forum is about.

If you have a bike related problem, post it in the relevant section!

If I know the answer, I'll reply.

But we have people on here who also know the answer. And I want pages to be filled with these answers, in the hope that one day, all you have to do is search for it.

Posting keeps the forum alive, it keeps the members engaged.

So I am not blocking people out of spite, I am simply allowing the forum to grow as it should.

Use this space to post issues with your accounts. I know people have used private messages to deal with those types of issues, which is a much more appropriate.

Thanks!

@Mightyman Uh no.

The ability to list your item commission free using my infrastructure is strictly restricted to members who have earned this right.

Otherwise this forum ends up with these "breakers" that break perfectly good bikes so that they can line their pockets with our members hard earned cash.

I saw it happen on the old forum and it completely defeats the purpose of this community we have.

So sorry, selling items is restricted to members who have contributed to the forum.

@declan Aww now you're just trying to wind me up. I'll have to get the Ban Hammer out on you!

@finnerz89 Well spotted. Yeah I've seen scratches on clutch baskets not really being an issue.

Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

As you probably all know, or as @Darty says, my Helios RS Build is simply "Bolt Ons". The reason for this is that custom fabrication is a slow and long process of trial and error, this isn't something I do for a living or have spare time to do.

Copying a Design

That said, one day I was browsing the web and came across an blog on 125cc Sports Bike forum about doing a Hydraulic Clutch conversion on their RS 125.

It's definitely an interesting read and peaked my attention.

Now for those of you who haven't used a Hydraulic clutch on a bike before, I'd suggest you don't, as you probably wouldn't want to go back to a normal cable clutch afterwards.

I read that blog post numerous times, fascinated by the prospect, and inspired by the conversion.

What they'd done was an interesting modification.

Effectively, they used a Ducati 996 Hydraulic Clutch system and created an adapter plate onto the original Rotax 122 clutch cover to mount it to. They then machined up some silver steel and quenched it for strength.

It's a pretty simple conversion, but sorry to say this, they've done it wrong.

Why is it flawed?

Now whilst their theory is pretty sound, they've not examined how the Ducati clutch system works.

The clutch operation on the Rotax 122 engine is different to the Ducati. The Ducati works in much the same fashion as the Yamaha DT125R RE/X Engines. That is to say that the clutch is pushed away from the crankcase and towards the clutch cover. Disengaging the clutch in the process.

This is the inverse to the Rotax design which pushes the clutch plates together towards the crankcase, disengaging the clutch.

Furthermore, the Rotax clutch is not fastened to the engine.

This is an odd design choice, but for those of you who haven't worked on the Rotax series engines before, it goes like this.

The clutch basket merely sits on the output shaft of the gearbox, the clutch plates sit inside the basket and are clamped together with the pressure plate and are placed in situe.

The ONLY thing stopping the clutch plates from falling off and smashing into the clutch cover is the clutch actuator arm.

In the original design, the clutch is disengaged using an actuator arm pivot over a cam'ed region of space on some ball bearings.

A cable pulls the arm over a cam and this raises the actuator arm. A push rod is adjusted to make contact with the pressure plate and this crushes the plates together to disengage the clutch.

Why is this important?

The push rod adjustment is crucial to the clutch system.

The push rod was never designed to be in contact with the pressure plate for extended periods of time, and this can be seen when you examine the wear on the ball bearing of a moderately used pressure plate.

That wear is just from changing gear, and on both the engines I've got, is excessive.

As the clutch plates wear, the push rods must be adjusted.

Again the adjustment on a Rotax differs to a DTR or Ducati.

On a DTR, when the clutch plates wear, the push rod needs adjusting TOWARDS the engine to move it closer to the plates.

However on the RS, as the plates wear, they move closer to the clutch cover AWAY from engine. Therefore the more they wear, the closer it will be towards the push rod, effectively causing the clutch to slip and be disengaged.

Therefore, the design the chap has made does not cater for this and is wrong.

My Design

Now, by taking the above into consideration, i've come up with a design that remedies this.

One of the nice things about owning a Hydraulic Clutch is that they're supposed to be self adjusting. However due to the clutch system being slightly awkward on these engines, I won't be gaining that benefit. In fact I'm not sure what I will be gaining as a benefit other than some custom fabricating bonus points.

Because the plates move towards the slave, and the slave cylinders default state is to push the clutch out, I've had to design a system which forces the slave back into the housing, and the clutch pull pushes the piston back into the crankcase. I've then had to cater for the plate wear by making the push rod adjustable so that as the plates move closer to the rod, the rod can be retracted back into the slave cylinder.

I'm not using an adapter plate on the front of the casing in my design, instead I'm using an adapter plate behind the clutch cover, and utilising a shortened Lambretta clutch spring to force the piston back into its own housing, as it's default state. This means that the rod will not push against the pressure plate. I've then created a threaded insert in the slave cylinder so that the push rods length can be adjusted to compensate for clutch plate wear.

As I've stated before, the clutch is not fastened to the engine, so as you make left had bends, potentially the clutch basket could move towards the clutch cover and potentially fowl your clutch cover. So to stop this happening, the clutch must hit the push rod. But only for the minimum amount of time to avoid the pressure plate wear.

There is my mocked up engine with the original cam in place to show you what happens.

This spring will be used to push the slave cylinder back into its housing.

And the slave cylinder with the push rod (Not yet machined)

This is the adapter plate I've been making. It sits on the inside of the clutch cover and will be used to house the clutch spring that will push the slave cylinder back into its housing.

A hole has been machined through the middle to allow the push rod to come through. And then a press fit sleeve is made for the clutch spring to reside in.

I'm missing the photos of the rest but I will update this to give you guys a better idea of how we accomplished this.

A piece of aluminium is machined down and a thread tapped into it to act as an insert to the slave cylinder. It is a press fit into the slave and secured in place with some Loctite. Once this goes in, it's not coming out without some force. 8.2mm wide, with an M6 thread tapped into it, this insert will be used to adjust the push rod as the clutch wears.

The insert is machined down to fit perfectly within the slave cylinder. Not pictured here but from a side angle view, you won't see the insert.

The insert can be carefully pressed into the slave cylinder, and an adjustable push rod can be threaded into it. The insert is sealed in place using some Loctite and a locking nut is used to stop the push rod from unscrewing itself.

The Lambretta clutch spring will push the slave cylinder back into its housing.

And the fluid will overcome the springs pressure and force the push rod into the pressure plate.

The spring fits snugly into the adapter plate and the appropriate holes are drilled and tapped into the plate.

The spring is placed facing away from the engine, applying pressure onto the slave cylinder.

The clutch cover has been machine to provide a flat face, o-rings are used to sandwich between the slave cylinder and the clutch cover, preventing any oil from leaking. An o-ring is placed between the clutch cover and the face of the slave cylinder to prevent any oil leaking from their also.

The push rod protrudes through the cover.

The adapter plate forces the push rod back into the slave cylinder.

The adapter plate is fastened home into the clutch cover, ensuring it avoids the spinning clutch plates.

As the plates wear, the push rod is adjusted to compensate the reduced travel necessary.

The Slave Spring

In case it isn't clear why the adapter plate is necessary, I have created some more photos.

In the design I pulled my inspiration from, a push rod was affixed the slave cylinder to disengage the clutch. However the push rod would never retract away from the clutch pressure plate, with the potential to wear out the pressure plates ball bearing.

The adapter plate serves as two purposes. As a mechanism to affix the slave to the engine, and to act as a return spring for the slave cylinder.

The springs design must be taken into consideration. The spring must be tough enough to force the slave cylinder back into the housing, but long enough to allow the slave cylinder to push back.

You can see from this image that the slave is fully retracted into its housing. But the spring still has plenty of compression left for it to push the clutch.

The spring can bottom out, giving at least 10mm extra length to the push rod.

The push rod can be adjusted to alter its overall length, such that as new plates are fitted, it can be extended. And as the plates wear, it can be retracted.
Hopefully someone will be inspired by this design and maybe make one themselves.

Clutch In Action

https://youtu.be/ApAlNFL7k8Y

Fitted

Looks almost OEM

I want to say a big thank you to my Dad for the use of his Lathe and the long Coffee morning's we've had discussing how best to solve this problem. It's thanks to his understanding and skills that I've been able to do this. Cheers Dad!

@finnerz89 Used to notice it a lot on my little 50cc Aprilia RS when I was kid coming home from a late night!

@Bananper Yeah I wasn't convinced that either, but it's been so long since I've worked on the DT I had forgotten.

Powdercoating is great for resilience.

But the finish isn't always the best. For things on show, can't bet 2 pack paint. Fot things that need protecting, powdercoat.

@Darty That looks to me like it is from a 2005 RE DT125!

It's called the Yamaha Air Intake System YAIS

Believe it or not, a pipe from the exhaust actually plumbs into there!

Yeah just bung it up it's not needed.

The gearbox you will want to run some hose to the floor for that one.

The oil will still pump, but it does relate to the throttle position.

If you were watching my video then it wants to be setup similar to that. I adjusted it so that even on idle it injects a little more.

@Mightyman and you know what they say about assumptions.

Oh my bad, seriously I thought it was common knowledge.

@DevonDtr Even I don't do those hours!
Still £50 better off in your pockets. But if you are happy to pay then by all means.

@oldman Well I was trying to let him figure it out.

If on a four stroke you need to keep the cranked timed up with the cam shafts, the timing is not only the ignition, but the inlet exhaust duration overlap timings. But since there are no valves on a two stroke, you're purely looking at ignition timing. Done discredit the fact he may have bought a aftermarket reprogrammable ignition, but if it was just a stock CDI, then there is no ignition curve to map. So it would probably have been something else. Sounds suspect to me.

Tommy, if I can give you one advice you can take away it will be this.

Always, always, always run a thermostat! It is imperative that you run a thermostat.

The reason for this is because a thermostat creates a restriction in the cooling system. This raises the pressure inside the cooling system. A cylinder head requires around 40-60 psi of pressure in the cylinder head. Failure to do so will cause stale pockets to form of hot gases in the head. This becomes increasingly hot and will warp the cylinder head and cause the head gasket to blow.

Rad weld should only be used in an emergency to get you home. It should never be used on a system you care about. It's bad for aluminium, which your engine is. It clogs up the radiator reducing the efficiency.

To be honest we may found your problem mate! Put the thermostat back in. This restriction, combined with the blown head gasket will cause the expansion bottle to overflow. Indicating that the gaskets gone mate!

Please read and take that on board. It's sound advice.

Nah just run the bike with the coolant cap off for a few moments. Give the bike some revs (the coolant impellor is fed off the crankshaft).

So I have put the forum on a new computer and it seems to be doing fine now. I am thinking maybe I burnt the old one out.

The one on the left is the mikuni tms28 carb that comes standard on the dt

@Mightyman Aprilia box is hella notchy lmao.

DT is like a rifle action by comparison.

@Jens-Eskildsen Absolutely, unless you have a DTRE CDI where it closes the port at 10K RPM. But earth the green and black wire behind the clocks and BOOM! Full power. Easiest bike to derestrict. It's like the Japs knew

A collection of information that I posted on the last site. Is still relevant information that would be really helpful to most people!

Selection of videos on how to adjust the settings on carburettors

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=UipC6DLD-EE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1vRMERs4RQ&feature=player_embedded

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXxxJrA5hNY&feature=player_embedded

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBCzVg4kUN0&feature=player_embedded

Permalink

Seeing as no one wants to share advice on Carburetta tuning on this site I've had to resort to Youtube to find some helpful videos. This one in particular came across as very is good. Clear Consisive information.

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

To summarise various parts of the carb work as follows:

• From cold, closed to 1/4 throttle, choke and idle
• When started, closed to 1/8 throttle idlejet and air
• 1/8 to 1/4 throttle, slide
• 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, needlejet (atomiser) needle position and taper of
• 3/4 to full throttle, main jet and power jet if used. NOTE: The power jet only works when the engine is revving flat. All it does is allows a smaller main jet to be used which weakens off low down carburation. The power jet substitutes the main jet size when the engine is revving high. Both main and power jet should add together to a normal main jet size.

Below is a more comprehensive and definitive guide to jetting your carb.

JETTING

Getting the most out of your bike

By Don K. Courtney

For whatever reason it becomes necessary to re-jet a carburetor, it is without a doubt a nightmare if you do not have a procedure to follow. The following is nothing more than a technique, procedure, steps or whatever you want to call it to help identify and isolate the carburetor circuit involved.

You can only begin re-jetting your carburetor if the following conditions are met:

1. Top end is in good condition.
2. Bottom end is in good condition. Crank seals.
3. Spark plugs, air filters, reeds and so on.

If your bike's motor is not mechanically sound, then all the jetting in the world will not help. With all of the above conditions met, you should be able to jet your carburetor following these steps:

Step 1:

DETERMINE THE CORRECT NEEDLE AND OR NEEDLE JET.

Whether or not your carburetor is a MIKUNI or a KEIHIN, it does not matter. This is the most important step in jetting your carburetor--period!

1. Remove the main jet.
2. Place needle clip in mid-position.
3. Start motor and run it on the stand.

Condition: Motor running and main jet out. Needle or needle jet is correct: Carburetor should run clean to approximately 3/4 throttle. From 3/4 throttle to full throttle, the motor should start to break up as a result of too rich condition.
Correction: None needed.

Condition: Needle or needle jet is too rich. Carburetor runs clean to approximately 1/2 throttle but breaks up before 3/4 throttle as a result of too rich condition.
Correction: Mikuni replace needle jet with next leaner and test again. Keihin replace needle with next leaner diameter and test again.

Condition: Needle or needle jet is too lean: Carburetor runs clean beyond 3/4 throttle and has an erratic throttle response.
Correction: Mikuni replace needle jet with next richer and test again. Keihin replace needle with next richer diameter and test again.

The emphasis here is to find the correct needle or needle jet diameter, which will allow more fuel to pass than is needed but not so much that the needle itself has no control below 3/4 throttle.

Step 2:

DETERMINE THE CORRECT PILOT JET.

1. Make sure the bike is warmed up if at all possible.
2. Main jet out.
3. Needle clip in mid position.
4. Turn air screw all the way in then 1/4 turn out.
5. Start motor and run it on the stand.
6. Adjust idle so the bike will just barely idle.

Condition: Motor running and main jet out.

PILOT JET CORRECT:
With one hand on the throttle maintaining RPM at approximately 1/8 throttle, turn air screw 1/4 turn at a time clock wise until you bottom it out. Motor should become slightly erratic and you should have to play with throttle to maintain RPM. Start turning air screw counter clock wise, 1/4 turn at a time until you have reached 2 3/4 turns out. Between 1 1/4 and 2 1/4 turns, your motor should have reached its highest RPM maintaining a steady throttle. Adjust air screw again between 1 1/4 and 2 1/4 until you have determined highest RPM. Quick throttle response should be clean without bog.

PILOT JET TO RICH:
RPM does not reach a peak between 1 1/4 and 2 1/4 turns, stays the same or keeps rising out to 2 3/4 turns.
Correction: Mikuni replace pilot jet with next leaner and test again. Keihin replace pilot jet with next leaner and test again.

PILOT JET TO LEAN:
RPM does not become erratic and motor maintains throttle when air screw is turned all the way clockwise.
Correction: Mikuni replace pilot jet with next richer and test again. Keihin replace pilot jet with next richer and test again. Remember, with a steady throttle approximately 1/8, there should be a distinct difference in RPM from 1 1/4 turns to 2 1/4 turns if the pilot jet is correct. The emphasis here is to find a pilot jet that will run crisp without bog and without the main jet.

Step 3:

DETERMINE THE CORRECT MAIN JET.

The main jet selection process is easy once you have the correct needle diameter or needle jet. You now only have to correct a rich condition from 3/4 throttle on up and you know what a rich condition sounds like. Your pilot circuit is correct and without bog.

1. Replace main jet with one that is at least two sizes smaller.
2. Needle clip in mid position.
3. Start motor and run it on the stand.

By replacing the main jet with one that is too small, you are looking for a condition that is too lean. You adjust your main jet from a too small to lean condition.
Condition: Motor running and main jet in.

MAIN JET CORRECT:
Carburetor should run clean and crisp to full throttle.
Correction: None needed.

MAIN JET TOO RICH:
RPM reaches a peak slowly with a deep sound. Excess fuel and oil mixture at end of silencer. Spark plug fowls easily and is dark in color.
Correction: Mikuni replace main jet with next leaner and test again. Keihin replace main jet with next leaner and test again.

MAIN JET TOO LEAN:
RPM reaches a peak quickly but erratic. A quick full snap open of throttle causes the motor to hesitate BEWAH sound or a complete bog. Motor sounds like it has a ring to it. End of silencer white. Spark plug is white in color.
Correction: Mikuni replace main jet with next richer until the BEWAH bog just barely goes away, then replace the main jet with the next richer and run it. Keihin replace main jet with next richer until the BEWAH bog just barely goes away, then replace the main jet with the next richer and run it. The emphasis here is find a main jet that is just rich enough to allow you snap the throttle wide open without the motor bogging as a result of the main being too lean. Should be a quick crisp throttle with no hesitation.

Step 4:

DETERMINE THE CORRECT NEEDLE TAPER AND CUT AWAY.

This step in the jetting process can be made very simple if you remain close to stock. However, your needle taper is adjusted for 1/2 throttle to 3/4 throttle. Start off with a rich taper (shallow taper angle) and keep going leaner (steeper taper angle) until it will not maintain constant RPM at 1/2 throttle (runs erratic). Go back to the leanest taper angle that ran the smoothest at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and that should be the correct taper.
The needle taper final test should be under track conditions with the greatest effect entering and exiting corners. Do not change the needle diameter or needle jet size during this process because that has already been determined. Adjust taper and throttle cut away only.

Throttle cut away effects from idle to 1/4 throttle. The correct cut away will maintain steady 1/8 throttle with quick throttle response. Generally the stock cut away is very close. Experiment with different cut away until it maintains the best response to 1/4 throttle.

QUICK TIPS:
Keep it simple, buy the optional OEM needles or needle jets that are available, as this may speed up the taper selection process. Don't skip any steps or you're just guessing.

FINAL THOUGHTS:
That's it, if you spend the time jetting correctly, the benefits you will gain definitely out-weigh way the time spent. Take the guesswork out jetting by following a procedure that has been given or one you have laid out yourself. Keep the black magic process out of your tuning tricks and you will be better off for it.

Hope this helps

@bananper Not peak, but more power through the midrange. I want to say torque, but I always get thumbed down for saying that.

@Mightyman Interesting, but not necessarily trivial to implement natively.

But this is the feedback section, so happy to do it if you guys want it.

I also need to get some forum stickers made up!

Hello,

Due to the recent instability issues we were having over the last few months, it's been decided that we will migrate the database from one system to another.

I plan on making some changes to the server over the next few months, and migrating the database will be the first of many changes. The new database may impact on performance, but it's a necessary upgrade to improve the stability.

To compensate for this fact, I've just ordered a new faster system to host the server on, as well as a new HDD to store the data to.

@Arite Has created the necessary scripts to back the data up. He also has the complete works of the old forum saved locally which he's going to give me.

The plan will be to create a new READ ONLY forum at archive.dt125.co.uk which will house all of the old Forum on the same server as the new one. Meaning we should be able to make direct links from this site to that site.

I also plan to move the forum from dt125r.co.uk/ to dt125r.co.uk/forum

This is accommodate the new features that will be found at dt125r.co.uk/home

This is going to be a massive migration as all links currently pointing at the original location will have to move. As well as any Google index's will have to be recached, meaning we will most likely revert back down on the Search engine lists.

My plan today will be to stop the forum for a few hours whilst I migrate the database.

When the new server arrives, I will work to get that working over Christmas, with a plan to have a new site in the new year.

Expect a server outage for a few hours today whilst the migration occurs. There is a lot to migrate and I can't be having any new content being written whilst the migration is in process. So the forum will be offline.

If all goes well, this should be back up and running on the new database by tomorrow.

Kind Regards,

Calum

@NINJA May do, stats say the site is drawing in over 400,000 hits a month with over a 4000 unique visitors a month.

Think of all that money in ad revenue...that I don't make

@Biker_123 makes sense. KTM did a model with dtr engine in. So would make sense a pipe exists for it.

Moved Car related discussions into here

So with the Starlet dead and me deciding it will want a nut and bolt rebuild, I have decided to get another car!

I have also moved into my new house and have grabbed my bikes from storage.

I have bought a 1997 Mazda MX5 Mk1 1.8.this is a real gem of a motor. I have always fancied one and when this one came up I just had to have it.

It's git 45k on the clocks and at 43k it was sent off to BBR for a turbo conversion. It is sporting a Garrett GT25 turbo with an emanage piggyback ECU. Lowering sorings, stainless system and a few other tweaks

It wants some love shown to it as it has been in dry storage for several years. Cam belt water pump etc. The usual.

Went down to Torquay last Saturday with my brother, he sold his YZ to get something a bit more road worthy.

I give you, the Cagiva Raptor (Next generation of the Cagiva Planet).

Now, on the face of it, I didn't really like the bike.

But haven ridden it, wow. Lovely machine. Really comfortable and the power delivery and gearing is bang on.

It's effectively the equivalent as the Aprilia RS Tuono. That is it is a Naked Cagiva Mito, with higher bars.

He's already done a fair bit to it.

Tyga Exhaust, resprayed the engine cases. Stainless steel bolts. Order Renthal Fat Bars and bar risers. As well as mini indicators and tail tidy.

I'll update this when I next see it. But it really is a lovely bike. Rare to see as well.

Fantastic bikes. I'd recommend getting the later models of course, better engine better chasis better handling better everything.

Or a very early AF1 model would be the dream.

Parts are cheap and these bikes have plummetted in price, now is the time to buy!

Loads of tuning parts were used for juniors to race on before they hit Moto3 GP during the SuperTeen championships. The result, engines highly tunable and high top speeds can be had out on them.

Reliability wise, expect it to go wrong. Expect a used RS to be completely worn out. Expect to spend time on it. It's not the sort of bike that will just start at the press of a button, even when miticulously maintained these bikes demand attention.

Yeah, they are around the 35 BHP mark. They are totally savage.

So I would expect the DT would have more torque with the extra cc's.

But It won't matter once the EXC gets going it's just going to decimate the DT. It's everything, it's 20kg lighter, it's virtually got no flywheel. It's a full bred race bike so everything is just better spec.

Enjoy a comfortable ride pooting around on a reliable dt though.

It's not all about power.

@andrewj1680 Pretty sure the old one is still alive.

The old one was fine, but the software was so out of date.

As you say, it's a lot of work keeping it running, we've had a great deal of outages this year alone.

It's nice to have a website where we all get along and a place to see what people are getting up to.

I don't have Facebook or anything so this forum is my outlet. And it's good cause people don't post up pictures of their food or post boring stuff.

It's always interesting to see what motors people are building etc. It's the members that make this forum what it is, so thank you for contributing.

@Mightyman It's done bud. That's it no more work to do on it. Time for the next project.

Nah the 400 is a dog, but it's a project for my Dad. I'll be interested in seeing how it develops.

@Biker_123 Sorry but an unmolested DTR will and should always fetch more money than an unoriginal one.

The DTR is a classic bike that neess no upgrading. Mods like progressive springs and thicker fork oil do much more to the dtr than usd. By that I mean they provide a much better ride, whilst still giving it that original look. Remember the dtr is a classic, to do what I have done to mine is criminal if yoy ask me. But my bike has been stolen and smashed to pieces. It was either this, or scrap it.

So to answer you question, yeah am not surprised at those comments.

Hence why Scrimustang always got top dollar as he restores them.

Personally I would stick with Wossner Wiesco since they are forged metals. But I ran Mitaka for years and they were just as good. Aa said you get what you pay for

@morty Ah yeah, see the DTR's don't have that problem because they don't have a clutch switch!

Hhmm good question.

Says it works fine on rd and they use YPVS.

All I know is that the powervalve is known to be sketchy on low battery.

But this ad seems to be fine with it. Wouldn't be any good om the RE since it wouldn't power the startermotor

@britshgigolo Check the rectifier.

This is going to make life SOOOO MUCH EASIER....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Accurate-DIGITAL-LCD-VOLTMETER-MULTIMETER-WIDE-RANGE-TESTER-AMMETER-AC-DC-UK-/191921991924?hash=item2caf7130f4:g:tP4AAOSwcLxYEw1O

And for the money.

Right to nip this one in the bud.

As said if you use the search button

https://dt125r.co.uk/search?term=restrictions&in=titlesposts

https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/576/restrictions

Have a look at @CYBER-NINJA's post...

I think most of us chose the vapor units.

@DevonDtr Yeah that's fine mate. If the paint is thick you might not get the right conductivity.

@DevonDtr said:

Succeeded today, and not much noticeable difference. Its earthed on top radiator bolt

See I said that mate when I was 17. I then when I got realised what a mistake that was. It should make a massive difference.

I went from Zeeltronic to stock. And I had to derestrict it. And realised what a difference it makes.

It should be massively noticeable. Earth it to the battery mate.

@dtluke What was it the 1989 YZ 125. Or was it the 88 Evo?

Something around that year was a direct fit byt don't quote me.

Alternatively grab the Yamaha DT 230 Lanza wheels as they are aluminium.

I really want to hear about this too!

We discussed this the other day.

Well my bike won "Customer Bike of the Month" from TYGA performance.

https://tyga-performance.com/index.php?cPath=1638_230_1746

Rode the bike into storage today. Was about a 5 mile ride. Aww wow. It's so sweet. Didn't open it up, fresh engine and all. But just around the 6K mark you can just hear the solenoid start to open and the power starts rushing in. It rides SOOO smooth. The hydraulic clutch actuation is superb. This bike was well worth waiting to complete before riding it.

Shame it's going to be in storage for such a long time now

Oh well, onwards and upwards to the next project.

The 4dl head sits on a 3mb barrel. Graham Bell says the head is where the majority of the power is made. Get that right and you can't go far wrong.

I have done many heads before and haven't had any problems with Athena. There is a tutorial on qhat you should do to prep the head and barrel using a sheet of glass and various grades of wet and dry paper. Do what I say in that turorial and it will seal.

Kick Start Conversion

This is a tutorial for future reference for anyone who is thinking of or is going to carry out a kick start conversion for their DT125RE. This may also help if you are going to dismantle the clutch to replace/inspect or repair. It may also help if you wish to replace the kick start or idle gear.

Required parts for installation:

• Kick Start Mechanism
• Idle Gear
• 2 X Circlips
• 2 X Thrust washers
• Kick start Lever
• Nut (outer nut to secure lever)
• Oil Seal

If you cannot find the Kick start complete or are looking for parts then here is a list of the parts that comprise of the kick start mechanism:

1. Kickstart Shaft
2. Friction Clip
3. Kickstart Pinion
4. Washer
5. Return Spring
6. Spring Guide

See Haynes Manual diagram from setup of the kickstart mechaism

You may find that you may require a tool to take the nut off the clutch as the hardest part is removing the clutch to insert the Idle gear. It helps to have an assistant at this point however I was able to remove this bolt on my own using a homemade device.

NORFE recommends the use of this the clutch removal tool:

Ebay:

Search-
CLUTCH HOLDING TOOL

I would say that this can be a fairly easy job to do yourself however this is a guide for interest and help should you need it and I am not responsible for your actions. When it's all done it will look like so...

To start!

• Put the bike into sixth gear

• Remove fairing covering expansion bottle

• Remove seat

• Remove petrol tank

• Remove exhaust

To enable the gearbox casing to be removed it helps to remove the rear brake pedal. To do this first remove the return spring. This can be done by inserting a flat head screw driver and carefully leveraging the spring out of place. Remove the bolt holding the brake pedal in place. This bolt should have a split pin on the other side. This will need to be removed. From beneath the master cylinder remove the dowel holding it in place. This is secured by a split pin.

If you are having trouble removing any bolts or items then it may help to first heat the item up by using a heat gun. If a heat gun is not available then you could try using a hair dryer. I highly recommend using an impact driver to remove stubborn bolts.

The brake pedal can now be removed.

Drain the coolant by unscrewing the drainage bolt and undoing the radiator cap. Detatch radiator hose from radiator tank. Attached the hose is a metal pipe that runs from the radiator to the water pump. Unscrew this as this will help when reinstalling the gearbox case. Examine picture to find cooland sump:

Drain the gear box oil by unscrewing the oil drainage sump

Loosen all case fasteners then remove all screws. Its a good idea to replace these bolts for stainless steel ones as I managed to round most mine off!

I buy all my stainless bolts from ebay.

Buy a range of M6 bolts and the drainage bolt is M8. I recommend kayfast as an ebay seller.

Remove the gearbox casing. If this is being stubborn try tapping its sides with a hammer whilst still pulling back on the casing. Avoid using a flat blade as leverage as this may damage the casing itself. If the closing isnt completely flush then oil may seep through when reassembled. Once the casing has been removed the gasket may be taken off. You can use this gasket as a template to create your new one or discard it as you may have purchased one.

Evenly unscrew the clutch springs in a diagonal pattern. DO NOT UNFASTEN ONE WITHOUT UNFASTENING THE OTHERS. Like I said evenly unscrew each clutch spring in a diagonal pattern. It may help to leave the push rod as it is. Remove the clutch pressure plate. Be careful when removing the push rod as a small ball bearing may fall out which is required when reassembly. If it does fall out then re-grease it and return it to the centre of the clutch. Grease up the push rod. Remove the clutch plates and friction plates HOWEVER MAKE SURE THE ORDER REMAINS THE SAME UPON REFITTING!!! You should note that the washer is bent up to the nut. This is normal and will need to be hammered down before the nut can be removed. By using a socket and ratchet remove the nut. The longer the ratchet the better Leverage is your friend.

This nut can be VERY STUBBORN and some improvisation may be required for it to come off. The problem is is that the clutch basket spins as you try to remove the bolt. By using a piece of long metal you could drill through it and secure it to the clutch pillars and add a counter force to it to allow you to release the nut. Or the tool can be used.

Once this nut has been removed the clutch basket can come off. It may seem stubborn as the cogs it sits between are curved. By rotating the basket and pulling you can remove the basket. The kick start mechanism can now be installed. By examining the photos install the kick start mechanism. The cog should lift as it rotates so it can engage with the idle gear.

An exposed beam next to the kick Start mechanism can now be reached. Install the first circlip to this beam, followed by; a washer, the idle gear, the second washer and the final circlip. The idle gear should sit firmly on the beam. Should there be any play side to side I have been told that it shouldnt matter as there wont be a load on the cog when the engines running so it shouldnt be too much trouble. The clutch basket should be inspected for any burs or signs of wear. The friction plates should be examined for any signs of blueing. This will indicate overheating inside the clutch. Also inspect the steel ball to ensure there are no flat spots. Inspect the push rods to make sure they are not bent.

See diagram:

See haynes diagram:

Once satisfied that parts can now be installed reinstall the clutch basket using the same method you used to dismantle it. If you took the washers off then install thrust washer first followed by the splined one. See diagram below if unsure:

Make sure that the idle gear connects with the primary gear and that the kick start engages the idle gear. Once that is satisfactory you may now start to install the clutch plates. When doing so inspect the clutch plates to ensure there is plenty of life in them. If not its best to replace the set.

When installing the clutch plates notice how one clutch plate has a larger internal diameter than the others. This clutch plate must be installed second, followed by the damper ring and then the friction plate. Also upon installation notice how the plain plates have a cutaway in them. This makes them unbalanced and the clutch will need to be rebalanced should it to work correctly. They should be equally spaced out by 60o so that it is balanced. Apparently this is done to reduce clutch noise!

A list of how the clutch should be assembled for reference:
Friction plate,
Plain plate (metal) 12 o'clock,
Friction plate with damper ring,
Plain plate (metal) 2 o'clock,
Friction plate,
Plain plate (metal) 4 o'clock,
Friction plate,
Plain plate (metal) 6 o'clock,
Friction plate,
Plain plate (metal) 8 o'clock,
Friction plate,
Plain plate (metal) 10 o'clock,
Friction plate,

Or see the Haynes manual picture:

When installing the clutch springs ensure that they are with the handbook specified relax length. If not then the whole lot should be replace. When installing them do as you did when removing them and tighten them equally in diagonals until all are tight. Ensure that the push rod is secured in its place and make sure that the punched mark on the pressure plate sits above punched mark on the basket. This punched mark may also be an arrow. See Haynes diagram if unsure:

Go to the casing. Where it says Kick starter that seal must be removed. By using a socket, pressure can be applied to its reversed side and hammered out of place. Install the new oil seal using a tool that only bears against the outer surface, a socket of the same diameter will do. Replace the gearbox case to the bike ensuring that the alignment dowels are in place and that the new gasket is fitted. Ensure it lines up correctly and fasten up to the engine ensuring not to over tighten and cross thread or snap the bolts. If the oil pipe has been removed then this will need to be bled again.

Install the kickstart lever and bolt and the kick start should now be working!

Remember to top up the gearbox oil, 750ml and to refill the coolant. It's a good idea to leave the bike ticking over with the radiator cap off to allow water to be pumped through the system and then add more coolant as it circulates around the engine.

If there are any problems with this tutorial or corrections that need to be made or rewording of any sort then please leave a comment so I can correct it.

I hope this helped thanks!

Sources:

Haynes Manual, Personal Experience, XGINCATX, NORFE

##24/06/15

Wow I wrote this tutorial back in 2012 and was one of the first modifications I done to my DT. It got me out the shit more times than I care to remember and is well worth doing should you be considering it for your own machine. This document I have referred to in the past, and now I am much more experienced, I can say it is correct.

I don't have Facebook. I adore the intimacy of this forum. Just a few gear heads into their smokers. I don't aspire to get that sort of traffic. Lose that one on one we have.

So I bought an Anti Lift Kit for this car. But unfortunately it renders the other polybushes I bought useless. So that was money well spent.

The effort required to fit these though! It a two man job at best. Seriously took me a long day.

I had to first cut out the crush tubes on the arms. Then you have to pull really hard to the rear of the car to pull the lowerarms inline.

Anyway after doing all that I forgot to put the lowerbrace on so had.to remove it all and start again.

Sorry the photos are no good. Blazing hot.day and I was absolutely shattered to take photos!

The anti lift kit apparently stops the wheels lifting under acceleration. You take up any slack.in the lowerarms with the spacer bushes and clamp. Hopefully this means greater traction when booting it

Been busy doing some more upgrades to my PC. Another 16 Gigs of ram, another SSD and a HDD. New pump and reservoir and have mounted an OLED screen hooked into an Arduino which in turn is hooked into the motherboard.

Eventually the Arduino will poll the motherboard for CPU temperature as well as time.

@declan Nev done it to his Black and green DT and it was mint!

@declan said in Yamaha dt125r oil pump:

@Martinez it's the same as that one in the video? If so there's not much you can do in terms of adjustment from what I know it's supposed to be fixed in place with 2 circlips what setting is yours on when the throttle is rested?

Not true.

The cable the connects the oil pump to the throttle can be adjusted at the point that it meets the oil pump housing. There is a 90 degree bend on the cable where it meets this housing. The bend is made out of metal and is connected via a hexagonal threaded bar. By adjusting this you will be able to determine how much oil is injected.

However if the pump lines up like in my video, then there is only two possibilities.

Either the oil pump has gone faulty, in which case adjusting the pump won't achieve anything.

Or the crank shaft seals have gone and you are in fact burning gearbox oil.

@jgr72 The Athena kits are a bit lack luster, however they will give you more torque.

Yeah sorry they would, but you said you wanted to keep it original. But now you're saying Athena big bore so now I'm confused.

If you're keeping it original, just leave it as is. Otherwise grab a DEP pipe as they are the most performant. That would probably suffice to be honest. If you really need more torque then upping the displacement would do, although I'd be more inclined to grab a DT200R or something similar.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.es/itm/302062068939

Hhmm that was odd.

Updated the forum software but was getting some issues on reload.

Not that you'll see this, but if you find you're having problems accessing the forum then try emptying the browsers cache and reload the website.

Looks like it was trying to use stuff that is no longer supported.

Cheers.

Calum

@cyber-ninja Increase. Which is why I went with one.

A wrap around pipe is a compromise, for ground clearance and to still keep this forced induction.

An underslung can be better tuned to give a wider band.

For performance, it's all about underslung/

@zrako Yeah I think he knows now lol

@glynn123 Spot on mate, I just like to be a wind up merchant lol.

@tdr125greg I've never seen it stamped on the outside of the wheel like that.

Looks great anyway!

Such a great conversion.

Loads of people going down the USD route, worth every penny.

Anything is possible. No it's not a direct fit, but if it were then every joey would have done it.

The only reason I didn't do it, was because I spent many many nights lining up my supermoto wheels with my current setup, changing the arm, whilst trivial, would have undone all that work.

@Zrako It's not really an issue, but the original throttle is there to ease the power on and make it easier to just poot around with traffic for the novice rider. It wouldn't take long before you forgot how it was originally and got used to the quick throttle.

Two months since my last post! Wow that's literally flown by.

What have I been up to?

Wheels have been dismantled and powdercoated. New bearings have arrived I just need to press them all back in.

The petrol tank has been coated as well. Lots of sand still inside thst I need to flush out. Joys. Hopefully next month it'll be on its own two wheels after a whopping 18 months!

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p488/calum122/DT125/DT125 Project Thread/20160427_153514_zpsk7eqom6q.jpg

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p488/calum122/DT125/DT125 Project Thread/DSC_0006_zpshmut8nl5.jpg
I still need a front disc which won't be cheap.

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p488/calum122/DT125/DT125 Project Thread/DSC_0005_zpslo2lfbxy.jpg

Hey let us resurrect a dead thread...

Got the DT out of storage and it runs like turd. Battery is dead.

Bought a lithium battery for it. They are cheap now. £50 and it has 1/4 the weight. It's smaller too. And still packs enough punch to power the starter.

I'm telling you, this would make for a KILLER SM project!

Ahh taking forever to pay for things LMAO.

Contrast Up'd and Vibrance Up'd to bring out the wheels on such a dull day!

It's coming together. I have had this pipe for almost three years now and this is the second time it's been on the bike would you believe.

Snail trail pace, but it's getting there!

This piece I had to make up as the radiator swap meant these had to be cabled tied togeteher in one piece.

Small Update:

Lots of parts have been sent to the powdercoaters.

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p488/calum122/DT125/DSC_0041_zpsmmkpa1yc.jpg

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p488/calum122/DT125/DSC_0057_zpssto0mo41.jpg

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p488/calum122/DT125/DSC_0054_zpsd00kqkhm.jpg

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p488/calum122/DT125/DSC_0038_zpsmwhfpvfs.jpg

I have had some parts made up.

Have ditched the idea for the YZ swingarm after examining it I quickly realised my Aprilia wheels simply won't fit between the gap lol. So back to the drawing board on that one.

This is really vague and I don't want my members wasting time answering vague questions.

We are willing to help but please post in the correct section with more specific questions.

If you are that stuck, then I suggest you speak to your local mechanic.

As said if you have a specific question, then by all means open a thread in the relevant section.

It's usually an insurance check for stolen recovered vehicles.

Mine got stolen, notified the police, but a text check won't tell you that cause I never reported it to the insurers as stolen.

Regardless the bike looks to be in okay shape.

Engines are ten a penny. Getting a new tank is probably going to be the hardest bit.

The rest of the bits can be had new.

I was in this situation and decided I wanted another bike, so my bike was an ideal rolling chassis for some custom fabrication.

It would make for a good project.

I can't stand thieves!

And I've got a Railegh Maverick which is savage.

Small Update
I am so slow on the progress with this bike.

More stuff gone to the powdercoaters. Pretty sure they've lost a component so will need to ring them up Monday.

Switching between working on the car and the bike.

Got the shock spring resprayed.

Wanted to go black, but at the last minute decided to keep it red. Everything else is going black.

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p488/calum122/DT125/DT125 Project Thread/DSC_0092_zpswek1feur.jpg

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p488/calum122/DT125/DT125 Project Thread/DSC_0093_zpsjvrlszoz.jpg

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p488/calum122/DT125/DT125 Project Thread/DSC_0094_zpsynogqkip.jpg

Swingarm is black with red snail trails and the little brake guard.

Want the calipers Black.

Got some new grips and sorted some other niggles out.

Running sweet as a nut niw.

This pipe packs a punch and sounds the tits full chat.

I like how your graphics have your username on them

Green and black wire that feeds into rhe clocks. Cut it and earth it to the negative terminal of the battery. Full power then. For a X that is. Give it a pipe, upjet and free flowing filter and you will have nicr gains!

Twin Rads? Just an idea.

To do it properly you are going to need to realign the whole geometry of the bike.

With the new swingarm you are going to need the YZ brake carrier. Which will need modifiying to either accept your brake, or use the YZ brakes.

Either way the swingarm needs altering to fit between the frame and the engine.

This will cause the sprocket to be out of alignment with the rear sprocket, which is going to to cause undue stress to the gearbox bearings. This will need correcting by either shimming or machining.

You are then going to find the front and rear wheels are no longer in line. So this will need altering to ensure that the front and rear wheels are inline, and the front and rear sprockets are inline.

If you don't then you will find the bike will have a tendency to crab or to cause excessive damage to the gearbox.

This is why my front wheel is off centre from the forks. This was done to ensure the front and rear wheels line up perfectly, whilst maintaining the correct geometry for the front and rear sprockets.

I'm all for the swingarm conversion, but it sounds like you haven't thought this through enough?

If you're going to do, do it right. Is all I'm going to say.

It's just a case of measuring once, twice three times to be sure. This is the reason why I didn't use the alloy swingarm, AFTER I had already done all of this measuring.

I should have done it all at one time and saved myself the effort of measuring twice.

If any of that is unclear I am happy to go into more detail.

As said I got all mine off simply bearings no problem. Saved loads of money as well!

Ahh never mate!

What happened?

Head gasket go?

These engines are fairly bomb proof so I'm sure the damage will be minimal.

The fact you were having issues with this build suggests something wasn't right.

If you need any help just throw up a thread in the appropriate section and we'll come to your rescue!

@nottsbiker I've already done this mate it is in the tutorial section

Oh dear not good.

That's kinda why I prefer the DTRE flywheel. It locks the woodruff key off from ever moving.

I have had the throttle cable go. Had to adjust idle so at least I could sit on it at 3mph home lmao.

I like driving a car, but it don't beat the bike.for me. Even the Starlet. Love it but give me a dt.

You are going to need the embed link mate.

You need the URL of the image, not the web address it can be found at.

Easiest way, just use Imgur.

@louis-james Literally wrote a blog on this. Take the time to read and understand it as it's really not that technical.

@tdrnoob Biggest clue is going to be in the part numbers.

However, if this were me, I'd grab my vernier calipers and simply measure it.

Then head over to simplybearings.co.uk and just buy Koyo bearings as a replacement. Cheap and easy job.

@tdr125greg Identical length ey?

Just go onto Simply bearings and buy thr right size bearings.

Mate might have just stumbled on the easiest USD conversion!

@tdr125greg I personally would ring arracing.

They are muy first point of call everytime and deal with renthal directly. As such custom sprockets can be made upon request.

@louis The 3MB engine is not 28BHP lol. They were marketed at 11KW power and around 15 BHP but I doubt they made that sort of power.

You will never be able to port the 3MB barrel to the levels of the SP, the differences are a lot more than Nikasil plating. The port windows and timings are massively uprated. The compression ratio is dramtically different and they also contain two auxillary exhaust ports.

The 3MB engines are not really designed for racing, they were great for reliability and commuting. But they do lack that oompf for performance.

The older three wire Servos ran a separate unit to control the Powervalve I believe..

The whole setup of that bike looks great, it's only pitful is that the engine isn't highly strung.

A Rotax engine would suit that bike tenfold and in stock trim would be far superior to anything the 3MB engines could be made to do

@oldman Yes, I'm really loving this!

Nice mate that's looking lovely.

@notgotaclue It's going to depend on how hard you ride the bike.

For normal riding, it makes a noticeable difference, the biggest difference is just braking.

I found for every day use, my stock DTRE was fine.

Since You said he already has a supermoto, it probably won't make too much difference under normal riding.

@zrako You just compensate.

@ricky0115 You do not need them for the MOT, so long as you do have a switch.

I haven't posted in a while about any projects, yes I have been busy, but I haven't got to a stage where I really wanted to talk about it.

This one I started way back in January last year. I was in talks with someone with something really tasty, but it was just infeasible. So I took another direction and very very happy with the results.

Honda Civic Type R Gaming Chair

So I found a really nice passenger side seat out of a 2003 (face lift) Honda Civic Type R EP3.

These are not recaro's but rather Honda's own take on a bucket seat. They are a good alternative since the bolsters hug the body, but don't grip. This makes them relatively comfortable to sit on for long periods of time at a desk.

In this instance, I have opted to utilise the existing rails and ratchet mechanism, meaning I go can full gangster mode

The first thing I did, way back in January, was source the base of my seat. You can actually do this as cheap, or as expensive as you like.

I went for the middle of the road.

The black seat base and gas lift are really cheap (about £20 for the two).

I paid a little more for the aluminium star base, and went all out on the wheels, opting for ABEC 7 rollerblade wheels.

All of these parts can be found on Amazon/eBay really cheaply. I think the wheels were the most expensive at £25, but the rest came under £50. But you can get castor wheels for litrerally £2.

I then turned my attention to how I was going to mount the chair to the base.

I used a 500mm X 500mm 3mm steel base as a starting point. And opted to angle grind the EP3 seat to make it absolutely flush.

Smooth it all off and drill through the rails to give you fixing points to anchor your base to.

Do this for all four legs and smooth it all back, paint it and get ready for the next stage.

Next I designed the base given the measurements from the seat.

It's pretty simple really:

• Centralise the chair to the base
• Drill holes for the seat as per necessary
• Locate the center for the office chair base to mount to
• Affix it all together.

You'll want a set square to help locate where the seat needs to go (I'm using my mitotoyo one but any should be fine)

Drill your holes as per the diagram

Fix the chair to it making sure it all lines up nicely.

Now all you need to do is locate where the center is, for the office base should go.

Again you will want to use your combination set here.

![alt text]()

Fix it all together with suitable nuts and washers

Now mount to the rest of your chair, sit back, relax and enjoy!

USD Coversion (Bearing Cup Method)

I've been asked on many occasions on how I managed to fit Upside Down Forks to my DTRE.

I remember thinking foolishly about it back when I bought the forks. I bought a set of miss match components before quickly realising I am going to need to need the match together components.

So before you go ahead a buy anything, I'd suggest having a quick skim through this to familiarise yourself with what is necessary.

I shouldn't bother about what bike to obtain your forks from. There is no simple method to this conversion, they all require some amount of work to get it right. Whether it's modifications to the frame or the wheels. You will want to spend time getting it right.

The key thing to do is ensure you get both the Triple Clamps and the Fork Stanchions. It will be helpful if you obtain the front spindle and nut whilst you're here.

Obtain Like Items

• Triple Clamps
• Fork Stanchions
• Spindle & Nut

From here you should be able to fabricate the rest.

What are you going need then?

You may be lucky, you might find your forks just fit and away you go. But somehow I do doubt it.

You are going to be scrapping the DTR Forks and Triple clamps. You are going to notice that the stem on the DT is considerably smaller than your USD's. It's this component that presents a problem.

The stem is going to be shorter and thinner. And this means the bearings used on the DT won't fit the USD's.

That's fine, they are crappy push bike bearings anyway. We want to derive a system that utilises taper roller bearings.

This conversion is going to raise the height of the handle bars, as well as uprate the whole suspension system.

If you look at the head stock on the DT. You will notice that the tube is a consistent size throughout ( except the two tapers that houses the bearings. In this sense, so long as the stem you are using fits through this hole (I'd be surprised if it didn't) then you're good to go.

The bottom bearing on my DT was the same as the bottom bearing on my forks. Taper roller bearing already. And for me this was a straight swap, well not exactly, I needed to space the bottom bearing out but it was relatively simple process.

If you find that it doesn't fit, then you will need a bearing cup to fit both the bottom and top of the head stock. I am going to describe the process I went through for the top of my headstock, but repeat the process for the bottom, ensuring that your measurements for the stem take into account you are going to space the lower and top components.

Let's examine a 2D representation of the DT Headstock.

Imagine that's the tube that the stem runs through. Your triple clamps are fixed to this. Bearings sit inside the frame to allow you to rotate the wheels.

What you want to do is to create an extension to this frame to enable you to run bearings suitably big enough for your stem.

The bearings you are going to fit only need to be big enough in the internal diameter. I once had someone tell me this method wouldn't work for them due to the lack of availability of bearings for their forks. Which is rubbish. You design the size of the cup to take whatever bearing you want to fit. In otherwords, so long as it fits on the stem, the width and depth can be whatever your cup designs account for.

Eventually you will design a cup to sit inside the frame (Where the old bearing went) ensuring you remove the race before hand.

In this picture, notice how the internal diameter of the frame has been enlarged to allow the new bearing to sit inside here. The red will fill the space of the old headstock housing. Your triple clamps should now be at the right height, with enough space for the bearing to sit inside. It should be able to rotate freely.

Here was my exact dimensions for 2001 WR450 Forks.

Here is the product you will aim to make.

With the new race for your bearing installed.

With the bearing installed

How it compares contrast to the existing frame.

Get it painted to match your bikes theme and enjoy fabulous suspension!

Don't forget, new brackets will be necessary for your clocks.

Hopefully this is helpful!

The rpm isn't magical at all. Works exactly the same way as the speedo does. It measures flux, usually one pulse per ignition and translates that to rpm.

Wow, they seriously weigh that much!

That's edging on 300kgs with the fuel and rider weight.

Not being funny, but that's gotta affect the Power to weight ratio.

I was looking at the 125 of these, they look properly smart.

It's a lovely looking bike nevertheless.

I really ought to get a bigger bike lol. Make use of actually having done my license all them years ago.

@minia Wow Minia, you're pretty light, or I'm pretty fat lol!

Nah I think it's a sweet bike man.

Originally Posted by: Reef

Found today that my local dealers didn't want to provide me with an wiring diagram for my bike simply because its 'confidential' and that it had cost them money to get it so they wasn't willing to give it out,

however i found if you contact yammy themselves with your frame number and email address their send the correct wiring diagram for your year dt in a email in PDF format..... FOR FREE

Here's the email address for them incase you want your's

marketing@yamaha-motor.co.uk

Think this is quite useful, saves hassle of trying to find a clear one off the net and as well $$

Reply Posted by: garytee
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss154/6arytee/DTR125wiringdiagram.jpg

Originally Posted by GoProKid95
Hi all, was doing some reading on an American bike forum and I came across this post. All of the bikes below use the same diameter front forks as the dt, now im not too sure which are dirt bikes and which aren't so I've decided to post the entire list. If you're looking to replace your forks with others and don't wanna replace the yokes as well, then these forks will bolt on! (You will need need Axle Pins and potentially spacers and wheel hubs or a complete front wheel!)

41 Honda CR-250R (81)
41 Honda XR-250L (91-96)
41 Honda XR-250R (86-89)
41 Honda XR-250R (90-04)
41 Honda XR-350R (83)
41 Honda XR-350R (84)
41 Honda XR-350R (85)
41 Honda CB-400F (89-90)
41 Honda CR-450R (81)
41 Honda CBR-600F2 (91-94)
41 Honda CBR-600SE (98)
41 Honda XL-600V "Transalp" (89-90)
41 Honda NT-650 "Hawk GT" (89-91)
41 Honda NX-650 (88-89)
41 Honda CB-750 "Nighthawk" (91-03)
41 Honda RVF-720R (94)
41 Honda VF-750C "Magna" (94-03)
41 Honda VF-750C2 "Magna Deluxe" (97-00)
41 Honda VFR-750F (90-97)
41 Honda VT-750CDA/B/C/D "Shadow American Classic Ed. Deluxe" (03)
41 Honda VT-750DC (01-03)
41 Honda PC-800 (89-90, 94-98)
41 Honda CBR-1000F "Hurricane" (87-91, 93-96)
41 Honda VF-1000F "Interceptor" (84)
41 Honda VTR-1000F "Super Hawk" (98-04)
41 Honda ST-1100 (91-02)
41 Honda VF-1100C "V65 Magna" (83-86)
41 Honda VT-1100C "Shadow 1100" (85-90, 92-96)
41 Honda VT-1100C2 (95-99)/ C2-2 (97) "Shadow 1100 American Classic Ed."
41 Honda VT-1100C3 "Shadow Aero" (98-02)
41 Honda VT-1100D2 "Shadow 1100 American Classic Ed." (99)
41 Honda VT-1100T "Shadow 1100 American Classic Ed. Tourer" (98-00)
41 Honda GL-1200 "Goldwing" (84)
41 Honda GL-1200 I "Interstate" (84-87)
41 Honda GL-1200L "Ltd" (85)
41 Honda VTX-1300C (04)
41 Honda GL-1500 "Goldwing" (88-90)
41 Honda GL-1500I "Interstate" (91-96)
41 Kawasaki KX-125 B1 (82)
41 Kawasaki KX-125 H1 (90)
41 Kawasaki KDX-200E5-E6 (93-94)
41 Kawasaki KX-250H1 (90)
41 Kawasaki KXT-250B1 (86)
41 Kawasaki EN-500C1-C8 "Vulcan 500 Ltd" (96-03)
41 Kawasaki EN-500C9 "Vulcan 500 Ltd" (04)
41 Kawasaki KX-500 E2 (90)
41 Kawasaki ZX-600D1-D4 "Ninja (ZX-6)" (90-93)
41 Kawasaki ZX-600E1-E12 "Ninja (ZX-6)" (93-04)
41 Kawasaki ZX-600F1-F3 "Ninja (ZX-6R)" (95-97)
41 Kawasaki ZR-750C1-C3 (91-93)
41 Kawasaki ZR-750F2 (00)
41 Kawasaki ZX-750K1/K2 "Ninja (ZX-7R)" (91-92)
41 Kawasaki ZX-750L2-L3 "Ninja (ZX-7)" (94-95)
41 Kawasaki VN-800 A1-A10 "Vulcan" (95-04)
41 Kawasaki VN-800 B1-B9 "Vulcan Classic" (96-04)
41 Kawasaki VN-800 C1-C2 "Vulcan Drifter" (99-00)
41 Kawasaki ZX-900B1-B4 "Ninja (ZX-9R)" (94-97)
41 Kawasaki ZG-1000A1-A13 "Concours" (86-98)
41 Kawasaki ZG-1000A14-A19 (99-04)
41 Kawasaki ZR-1000A1/A2 (03-04)
41 Kawasaki ZX-1000B1-B3 "Ninja (ZX-10)" (88-90)
41 Kawasaki ZX-1100E1-E3 "GPz 1100" (95-97)
41 Kawasaki ZG-1200A1/B1-B17 "Voyager XII" (86-03)
41 Kawasaki KZ-1300A1-A4 (79-82)
41 Kawasaki ZN-1300A1-A6 "Voyager" (83-88)
41 Kawasaki VN-1500A1-A5 "Vulcan 88/Vulcan 1500"(87-91), VN-1500 B1-B4"Vulcan 88 SE" (87-90)
41 Kawasaki VN-1500A6-A13 (92-99)
41 Kawasaki VN-1500 D1-D2 "Vulcan 1500 Classic" (96-97)
41 Kawasaki VN-1500 E1-E7 "Vulcan 1500 Classic" (98-04)
41 Kawasaki VN-1500 G1/G1A/G2 "Vulcan 1500 Nomad" (99-00)
41 Kawasaki VN-1500J1-J2 "Vulcan 1500 Drifter" (99-00)
41 Kawasaki VN-1500 L1-L5 "Vulcan 1500 Nomad Fi" (00-04)
41 Kawasaki VN-1500N1-N3 "Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi" (00-02)
41 Kawasaki VN-1500R1-R4 "Vulcan 1500 Drifter" (01-04)
41 Suzuki RM-125 L (90)
41 Suzuki RM-125 L (90)
41 Suzuki RM-250 K/L (89-90)
41 Suzuki RM-250 K/L (89-90)
41 Suzuki RMX-250 K/L (89-90)
41 Suzuki RMX-250 K/L (89-90)
41 Suzuki AN-400 K3/K4 (03-04)
41 Suzuki GSF-400 M/N/P "Bandit" (91-93)
41 Suzuki GSF-600 ST/SV/SW "Bandit" (96-98)
41 Suzuki GSF-600 ST/SV/SW "Bandit" (96-98)
41 Suzuki GSF-600 SX//SY/SK1/SK2/SK3 "Bandit" (99-03)
41 Suzuki GSX-600 FJ "Katana" (88)
41 Suzuki GSX-600 FK/FL/FM "Katana" (89-91)
41 Suzuki GSX-600F N/P/R/S/T/V/W/X/Y/K1/K2/K3/K4 "Katana" (92-04)
41 Suzuki GSX-R600 WN/WP (92-93)
41 Suzuki AN-650 K3-K4 (03-04)
41 Suzuki SV-650 SX/SY/SK1/SK2 (99-02)
41 Suzuki SV-650 S K3-K4 (03-04)
41 Suzuki GSX-750 FK/FL/FM (89-91)
41 Suzuki GSX-750F N/P/R/S/T/V/W/X/Y/K1/K2/K3/K4 "Katana" (92-04)
41 Suzuki GSX-R750 G/H (86-87)
41 Suzuki GSX-R750 M/N (91-92)
41 Suzuki VL-800 K1-K4 "Intruder Volusia" (01-04)
41 Suzuki VX-800 L/M/N/P (90-93)
41 Suzuki VZ-800 V/W/X/Y/K1/K2/K3/K4 "Marauder" (97-04)
41 Suzuki VZ-800 V/W/X/Y/K1/K2/K3/K4 "Marauder" (97-04)
41 Suzuki GS-1100 GKZ/GK2/ GKD/GKE (82-84)
41 Suzuki GSX-1100 FJ "Katana" (88)
41 Suzuki GSX-1100 FK/FL/FM/FN/FP "Katana" (89-93)
41 Suzuki GSX-R1100 G/H/J (86-88)
41 Suzuki GSX-R1100 M/N (90-91)
41 Suzuki GSX-R1100WP/WR (93-94)
41 Suzuki GSX-R1100WP/WR (93-94)
41 Suzuki GV-1200 GLF/GLF2/GLG "Madura" (85-86)
41 Suzuki GV-1400 (85-89)
41 Suzuki VS-1400GLP H/J (87-88)
41 Suzuki VS-1400GLP L/M (90-91)
41 Suzuki VS-1400GLP N/P/R/S/T/V/W/X/Y/K1/K2/K3/K4 "Intruder" (92-04)
41 Suzuki VL-1500 W/X/Y/K1/K2/K3 (98-03)
41 Yamaha YZ-125 W (89)
41 Yamaha YZ-125 W (89)
41 Yamaha YZ-125 A (90)
41 Yamaha YZ-125 A (90)
41 Yamaha WR-200 RD (92)
41 Yamaha WR-200 RD (92)
41 Yamaha YZ-250W/WRW (89)
41 Yamaha YZ-250W/WRW (89)
41 Yamaha YZ-250A/WRA (90)
41 Yamaha YZ-250A/WRA (90)
41 Yamaha YZ-250 WRN (89)
41 Yamaha YZ-250 WRN (89)
41 Yamaha YZ-250 WRW/WRA (89-90)
41 Yamaha YZ-250 WRW/WRA (89-90)
41 Yamaha XT-600 L/LC/N/NC/S/SC/T/TC/U/UC (84-88)
41 Yamaha XT-600 W/WC/EA/EAC/EB/EBC (89-91)
41 Yamaha XT-600 ED/EDC/EE/EEC/EF/EFC/EG/EGC (92-95)
41 Yamaha YZF-600 RG (94-95)
41 Yamaha YZF-600 RG (94-95)
41 Yamaha YZF-600 RJ/RJC (97)
41 Yamaha YZF-600 RJ/RJC (97)
41 Yamaha YZF-600 RK/RKC/RL (98-99)
41 Yamaha XVS-650 AK/AKC/AL/ALC/AM/AMC/AN/ANC/A/AP/APC/AR/ARC (98-03)
41 Yamaha XVS-650 N/NCP/PC/R/RC (01-03)
41 Yamaha XVS-650 ATR/ATRC (03)
41 Yamaha XVS-65 AS (04) "Star Classic"
41 Yamaha XVS-65 S (04) "Star Custom"
41 Yamaha FZR-750RT/RU (87-88)
41 Yamaha FZR-750RT/RU (87-88)
41 Yamaha YZF-750 RF/RFC (94)
41 Yamaha YZF-750 RF/RFC (94)
41 Yamaha YZF-750 RH/RHC/RJ/RJC/RK/RKC (96-98)
41 Yamaha YZF-750 RH/RHC/RJ/RJC/RK/RKC (96-98)
41 Yamaha TDM-850 D/DC/E/EC (92-93)
41 Yamaha FZR-1000 B/BC/D/DC/E/EC (91-93)
41 Yamaha FZR-1000 B/BC/D/DC/E/EC (91-93)
41 Yamaha FZR-1000 T/TC/U/UC (87-88)
41 Yamaha FZR-1000 T/TC/U/UC (87-88)
41 Yamaha YZF-1000 RK (98)
41 Yamaha FJ-1100 L/LC/N/NC (84-85)
41 Yamaha FJ-1100 L/LC/N/NC (84-85)
41 Yamaha XVS-1100 AM/AMC/AN/ANC/AP/APC (00-02)
41 Yamaha XVS-1100 M/MC/N/NC/P/PC/R/RC (00-03)
41 Yamaha XVS-1100 R/RC/AR/ARC/ATR/ATRC/AWR/AWRC (03)
41 Yamaha XVS-1100 S/SC/AS/ASC/ATS/ATSC (04)
41 Yamaha FJ-1200 AD/ADC/AE/AEC (92-93)
41 Yamaha FJ-1200 AD/ADC/AE/AEC (92-93)
41 Yamaha FJ-1200 S/SC/T/TC/W/WC/A/AC (87-90)
41 Yamaha FJ-1200 S/SC/T/TC/W/WC/A/AC (87-90)
41 Yamaha XV17 PCP/PCPC (02) "Road Star Warrior"

@RYUU67 I could have linked you to them and saved 100

Dog Bone Diagram

This is a reupload of the diagram used to raise, or lower, the height of your ride.

Increasing the distance between the two holes lowers the ride
Reducing the distance between the two holes hightens the ride

I suggest increasing, or reducing, the the distance by 5mm increments to see how you get on.

The diagram has had the ride raised already to accomodate somebody who is 6"X. If your bike is too Small then try these for size.

Credit to NORFE who drew the diagram for us.

@itstom I literally tell you in that post.

@NINJA I can't remember.

Genuinely, as bad as this might sound, sometimes I actually struggle to recognise dreams from real life.

I've sat there at times thinking of something as if it actually happened. Only to remember it was a dream. Mental mate.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-DT125R-89-O6-REAR-SHOCK-ABSORBER-NITROGEN-GAS-ADJUSTABLE-2-YEAR-WARRANTY/112137688586?hash=item1a1bed560a:g:qF4AAOSwTapV4GMY

That's about as upgradable as you can go.

If you don't want to faff around.

I bought one of these for my RS. Nice shock, but don't expect it to compare to an external reservoir one.

Burnt the rubber. I have done loads of these in the past, not on the shock of a dt, but when I polybushed my car I had ton take out loads of them and they are never easy.

@sgt-robuck-5 Just havea look anyway.

Poly bushes last a life time and give many benefits.

Silencers massively affect performance.

There is a dark art to them that even I don't understand, something to do with pipey engines liking long stingers.

Graham Bell's Two Stroke Performance Tuning would probably have the answer. Highlighly recommend this book

Oil dripping from the Exhaust pipe is normal. Two strokes are oil machines.

Back pressure is essential for two strokes, something to do with the harmonics of the sound wave created. But I'd be lying if I knew.

You will have to refer to a proper text book in order to gain a proper understanding of pipes. I'm afraid my knowledge is dicey at best.

@CYBER-NINJA I noticed a big difference.

The dep pipe is so much lighter as well. So there is that added bonus.

You can't fault the DEP on performance. It was 10/10 in my book. And it's not overly expensive. It was just really high maintenance. If it was stainless steel or something then that would have been better.

Yeah use to be really common back in the day.

I detest noisy machines.

It adds not performance so why bother.

@Bananper Without seeing a dyno it's hard to actually gauge.

Two stroke exhaust pipes work off resonance, fitting a pipe designed for another engine is incredibly unlikely to work as intended.

If it does work, then what is likely to be experienced is a shift in power. The WR200 exhaust is designed to produce a particular sound wave at a particular RPM for a particular engine.

When that translates to the DTR, it's likely that it's making less power down low, then picks up to an acceptable level. The change from where it makes less power, to more, (I.E. powerband) is likely to be exaggerated, such that the user thinks it's faster. But without a dyno, it really is hard to tell.

In other words, stick to an exhaust designed for the engine. As it has been designed to provide optimal results.

Looks fairly stock to me. Clue would be in the weight. If it weighs a ton then it's stock.

@bananper I don't get fitting an exhaust to a 125 four stroke. They sound ridiculously loud and look silly.

I guess that's the same view people have about tuning 125 two strokes.

Although that said, was at the British MX Championship on the weekend and I swear the 125 two strokes looked so much more elegant than the 250 four bangers.

They just looked nimble and quick.

But the cream of the crop had to be the 450F class. They were savage!

@terry-tz You can't beat a stock gutted for quality mate.

@pjt95 I went with a Romeu pipe myself, because no matter how hard I tried, the DEP insisted on rotting.

@declan I'd expect the majority of the power to go if the pipe is that bad. But it all depends on where it is. On a bike with only 2.9 hp, I'd be surprised if the exhaust was even setup properly in the first place. But a decent exhaust on a two stroke, is the difference between naturally aspirated and a turbo engine. The two stroke pipe supercharges the engine. So it's imperative that it's working effectively.

@mdn91 I believe people got the one from the wr200

Big Ones are zee worst. From my experience in the past, Big One was better for mid range but totally kills top end.

DEPS are great, rev to the moon, but ultimately rust.

Underslungs offer the best performance as they don't compromise by wrapping around the frame.

I hear good things about FMF.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/APICO-ALLOY-TRIALS-WIDE-CNC-FOOTPEGS-FOOTRESTS-RED-/201597856076?hash=item2ef02b294c

@zrako Jeez! I bought them so long ago took me ages to find the receipts.

Nah man, apparently I bought just universal ones.

@zrako No idea mate sorry. Really couldn't tell you.

They fitted fine, but needed the backs ground down to just bring the angle down. I used a work bench grinder, but the same effect could be done with an angle grinder, or a file.

@zrako And ignition injected oil system. #JAP!

That's pretty advanced!

@Biker_123 Less is more in this case.

Seiki is the best person to speak to. He reshaped his for the Hpires rear fender. You will want to get it flush with the rear fender. But if your seat is mint then buy a shitter off eBay. There are loads that are in bad shape. For pretty much nothing.

Actually surprised I didn't take any photos.

It's just a piece of curved steel that goes through some of the mounting whole.

Can just barely see it at the bottom of this picture in the video

https://youtu.be/jZ1C_xCmqWg?t=267

At 267 seconds

4 minutes 27 seconds.

I believe Yamaha did a factory one that wen through these holes, but it was plastice so I didn't fancy it,

You mean they show taper roller bearings?

That listing says it's an uprated part.

If the listing says for DTX then I'd go for it, and worry about when it arrives. If you pay through PayPal then you're well covered.

@britshgigolo I never leave my bike without the disc lock, even as I pop into the shops. Although when I fill up for petrol I guess I don't use the lock but rarely use the steering lock if at all.

As far as insurance goes, it does have a steering lock, the theives broke it when they stole the bike. Can't see how they can disprove that.

All I'm saying is, I wouldn't pretend to think the steering lock does anything. A £20 disc lock takes just as long to engage and will be a much better deterent.

@NINJA That's the plan.

@stinkwheeler I was strictly speaking MX125. Not RS. RS is a cracking bike for the summer weather on the weekend to rip around B roads. MX can do that and still be a good daily. Just like the DTR, but packs a far superior punch.

I used to do loads of green laning on my DT. Was great fun.

@finnerz89 IF you have a bigger bike, then I totally agree. But for me the bike was my sole transport and I needed to do dual carrigeway speeds, so I was able to rag it to 80, but sit at 70 comfortably.

@perithtv Yeah it needs load on the engine.

Even if it's missing spokes, it will be "safe-ish" to test up the road.

WHen my bike got nicked it was missing about 8 or so spokes. Rode it home no problems. Just slowly.

Yeah that's cool.

As said I have no experience in this and was just under the impression it was something you would want a professional to do.

@aidan1996 If you want a good every day reliable bike, leave it bog standard mate. I used mine daily modified, but then I was happy to swap the rings twice a year.

They look very similar to mine.

Quite a lot of work you will want to do to tjose. Firstly you must reallign the front and rear wheels so that they are perfectly centerer. For me that required machining back the rear brake carrier since the wheel is a lot wider. Then you need to machine a bracket to get the brake on sufficiently.

After that has been done you will need.to ensure the front and rear sprockets are allign. Else you will just munch through both gearbox bearings are sprocket carrier bearings

Ahh in that case mate. No. Lol.

Not even remotely worth it. The dtr wheel was common as muck. Used on a wide range of motorcycles. A fresh one will go for around 30 quid mark. The wider profile is no point

As I say, I run tubeless tyres on my DT. Just swap the wheels out for tubeless rims.

@bananper You'll have to make it, the DTX fork just extends the arms longer.

Pretty sure it's the spacers from a DTX rim, and then a bracket for the caliper, since the DTX uses a bigger caliper/disc.

@Zrako It's derailer-tech on those mate.

@2stroketerry Some girlfriend....Tell her I said that by the way

@sgt-robuck-5 Yeah, from 2000-2004 the restrictions were just unreal.

@Anditover Loads of places sell the Zeeltronic. And it will come with 5 or so maps so you don't need a Dyno.

As I've said time and time again, it's not all about peak power with the zeeltronic, but the overall power made. You will find it pulls a lot better with a zeel than stock ignition.

It's a worthwhile investment, but I'm not sure it's what you would really be after considering the bikes you've got.

Yeah it's difficult, not actually having a DTR200 I can't really help. Besides mapping really ought to be done by someone who knows what they're on about. I could share a map that melts your piston, and you wouldn't be too impressed!

@NINJA Was that Google Translate? We should get a plugin for that so we can understand what @declan is saying all of the time.

First gear generally won't give you a good enough indication. The key part of the plug chop is load.

You could look at a gunson colortune if you can't take it out.

See they would make difference back in day. But the reeds that come as stanadard are made of a decent plastic that gives the same properties as the carbon ones. I personally didn't notice any chanhe, but for the money would buy again purely for bragging rights.
Bent ones should be down on power and fuel. You might find it starts to hesitate and use more fuel

So just to clarify:

Reed Valve /Torque Induction

The reed valve, formerly known as Torque Induction was a system developed by Yamaha to solve the problem of spitting unburnt fuel back into the carburetor.

Previously the carburetor sat as the inlet, air/fuel was sucked through the vacuum created by the piston upon induction. However during compression the fuel was able to flow back into the carburetor.

Kawasaki answered this problem with the rotary discs, but it wasn't until Yamaha developed the reed valve did the problem of keeping it simple was solved.

Effectively, as the name suggests, the reed valve operators in a similar fashion as to how they would on a wood instrument, effectively air can pass through the reeds as the force exerted on them causes the reed to lift, however the back pressure won't cause the reed to open.

You effectively create a really simple one way system.

If the reeds are bent then fuel and air can come and go on compression and induction. So fuel is going to be spat back into the carburetor. Power is going to be down as fuel atomisation is effected due to the turbulence created.

As the power of an engine increases, so must the rigity of the reeds. At high power/rpms you can cause an effect known as Reed Flutter. What happens here is that the force exerted on the reeds as induction occurs causes the reeds to bounce on the cage, when the RPM's are high, the bounce could carry over to the compression phase, cause fuel/air to be forced back into the inlet track.

Stiffer carbon reeds are less prone to reed flutter, hence why they are considered an upgrade. However YZ125's come with the same plastic reeds as the DT as standard. If it's good enough for 33bhp+ it's good enough for 15. But an upgrade is an upgrade never the less. It is probably cheaper to get carbon ones than OEM plastic ones.

Hopefully that clears any misinformation up.

If it's an earth wire, then anywhere on the frame will suit.

@jens-eskildsen I agree, if there is a problem, evans coolant isn't solving the issue, it's masking it.

I didn't have a problem, and I didn't mean to suggest using evans was an adequate solution to an overheating issue, as it is not.

@dtr-mkd No, simply just no.

Did you not read my response bud. The Squishband is critical in getting performance out of a two stroke. A high percentage of power can be made or loss at the head.

Seriously bud, if you don't know what you are doing then get a specialist to do it.

@vtrn_raptor Yeah spanner will be fine.

Be sure to tighten in sequence as to not to distort the aluminium

@mhbikesnbits Have woeful brakes then.

@CYBER-NINJA Yeah that's good ol Nev for you. He used to moderate with me and a few others on the old forum, he's a good bloke, very knowledgeable.

Well let us know how you get on.

He posted a lot of his findings on the old dt forum, I'm sure that site would act as a goldmine for information

I thought that price was alright lol

@ninja Unless it explicitally says so, I wouldn't have thought it.

It's mroe than just the piston seals, but the master cylinder seals you have to think about.

Looked like carbon to me

@Zrako No, lol, that is my brothers YZ.

Literally eitherfit the servo operated cable pulley and pin it, or buy that item I linked and pin it, or better still fit the servo.

If you really want to learn more about it then I recommend reading Graham Bell's Two Stroke Performance Tuning. Very good book and will explain a lot.

You know you can embed the images?

@Bluestoesonnose You can get the engine ported and tuned to make more power in the mid range, rather than peak power.

Again, speaking to a tuner will be able to highlight what needs to be done.

I don't know if he's still knocking about, but Mick Abbey might be able to help.

When I spoke to him last, he provided free consultation, then I sent the barrel, powervalve and head off to him to work his magic. But he said it would be pointless without an aftermarket ignition system.

@louis-james Don't know about TZR cylinders.

But

3MB
3MBP
4FU
Are bolt ons.

The 3BN has a slightly bigger bore, so shorter stroke, as a result, a 3MB con rod will bit too long.

@bananper wr is a competition bike.

@bananper Without a Dyno Graph it's hard to tell. But due to the port timings being way out, once you start climbing through the revs, the opportunity for the power to be made starts diminishing.

Hence why at low RPM's you have the extra CC's to help deliver more low down grunt, but the power tapers off and the gap between a stock barrel and Athena barrel starts to thin out. You definitely lose overrev with the big bore, so the stock barrel will continue to rev out further, allow you to zap out a few extra ponies with the help of porting.

Two strokes in general don't love over square engines, the fact that the big bore kit widens the bore whilst maintaining the stroke exacerbates this. A longer stroke is ideal for this kit. There is the potential then, for the longer stroke to correct the port timings, out by 3mm I'm led to believe, to actually correct the issues with the barrel.

But by the time you've done all that, you may as well have just thrown a 3XP0 cylinder and crank and be done with it.

I haven't the expertise or experience to really comment on how any of this translates. But it's just what I've read from various sites.

Yeah fair play, those lads over in Portgual know their stuff.

@CYBER-NINJA An ally rad would make a huge difference. The Lanza rad, like the DT200R Rad, has a tiny capacity. I'm sure it ran very hot. But then the DT never had a digital temperature gauge to compare it to. The RE's Simply have a light that goes on when the engine is too hot.

Ahh well you're posting this question on a DT forum.

I agree with @Darty 500 miles of different riding styles with the first 100 miles being gentle.

On a DT it's about reliability.

On a crosser it's about not glazing the cylinder walls and losing compression. So would you really break an engine in on a offroad bike. Probably not.

@declan No.

@jgr72 Nah, the hose from the oil tank to the oil pump is much larger.

@declan A lot of crossers use v force reed blocks. They look like nice kits.

@Louis-James Really early DT's ran a round slide carb.

I would imagine it's going to run seriously rich lol.

Well I personally think it's butchering the bike. Personally I just use a pod filter.

I have been informed by Rob @ Yamaha Skellerns Cheltenham, if you're going to do it, cut the whole top off.

So long as you jet it accordingly, it'll be a derestriction.

@finnerz89 The key to two strokes and motorway journeys, NEVER shut the throttle off and coast. Every now and then pull the clutch in, blip the throttle. Try to go WOT for brief periods of time.

It's mainly about oil and cooling.

The RE/X has got to be by far the easiest to derestrict.

Earth Green/Black Wire, new pipe. It's like Yamaha new we were going to get full power haha!

They were also packed with only 3MB heads and all the boost bottles.

Probably still the slowest nevertheless lol.

@CYBER-NINJA Weight is a restriction that affects every single aspect of performance.

@tunertom Yeah that inlet manifold is a load of tosh, but don't discount Scrim, he knows his shit.

@CYBER-NINJA haha yeah I did chop my exhaust up and removed the cat, but oh my seriously those pipes have some serious weight, so if not for the performance the weight alone is worth swapping out lmao!

2004 Onwards Expansion Chamber Restrictions

Various pipes from various years have different types of restrictions in them. The 89-96 bikes do not have any restrictions in the exhaust pipe. However the last of the models do!

Originally Posted by iomdtr

The cat is welded inside the pipe so we had to cut it out with an oxy-acetylene torch (also known as a 'gas-axe'!), that's why the pipe is glowing red.

Cat pipe now chopped and welded over, associated pipe work removed and airbox hole sealed.

@connorjordan185 No! Have you even read @NINJA's link?

I quote

"DTRE AND DT125X 2004 ONWARD!"
AKA not previous.

@Minia I don't know what it is of late, but I feel like we're getting really really vague questions being asked.

Minia is not wrong, but wow, can't really expect us to diagnose a fault off a sentence.

Someone might, but I'm much more of a "Give me the bike I'll do it" kinda guy.

There could be so many reasons as to why your bike is going wrong.

Air leaks usually cause high uncontrollable idling. Actually, in my experience, when you have an air leak, when you ride the bike, the biggest air leak, aka the carb, takes over.

Your problem could be down to any number of reasons. The fact it happens when you're riding, tells me that under load a problem occurs.

This could be, fuel, restricted air, too much air, ignition, worn engine, or misrouted cabling.

The list goes on and on.

You have to start with the basics, is it a fueling issue. Put fresh fuel in it.
Is it a carb issue, restrict the air box (does it improve?) Too much air, is it worse (not enough fuel) if nothing then the problem lies else where.

IS it an electrical fault. The coil, spark plug HT lead, pickup, or perhaps CDI is going faulty.

If you've gone through all those and it's none of them, then have a look at the engine. is the engine making good compression, is it time for a rebuild?

As I say, one sentence is not really helpful as you have not given us any context. Did the bike work? What did you do when the last time it was working.

If you can't be bothered to flesh out the problem, then you can't expect someone like me to impart all my knowledge and experience. Ultimately, we're not paid to help people. If the bike is broken and you can't fix it, then pay someone to do it for you.

Sorry if I sound frustrated, but I feel we've been getting this a lot lately. And then I spend time/energy thinking how to fix someones bike and it turns out they left the choke on, or something equally trivial.

This springs to mind

link text

@sloanparkes Sounds like the powervalve isn't set up to me.

It's not a 26mm carb it's 28mm carb.

The amount of work required to replace the carb you could just fix yourself and save the money.

It's not going to be a lot.

If it's the overflow then it's just the float valve is either stuck, or the float bowl height needs adjusting.

Happy to go into greater detail if necessary.

@dtr2003 That's all it can take I'm afraid.

The float shuts the fuel off from the tank, if it's not set correctly then it's going to just fill the bowl up.

There really isn't much too the carb so don't worry about trying it yourself.

Any questions just ask.

@glynn123 Nah mate fair enough. It took me 18 months to get my DT rolling and consequently never used it. So sounds like a great plan.

@mhbikesnbits said in My DT125 80s Yz style DT200 build one to watch!:

Vaqua

Wow, they've come up a treat.

Nice engine.

Not to rain on the parade, I think it's slightly inferior to the 3XP00 engine. But let us know how you get on.

I think the ports are slightly different.

@cyber-ninja No.

I didn't want to make it sound like I'm teaching you to suck eggs.

I'm talking about the taper of the expansion chamber causing the temporary reverse flow of the exhaust gases causing lost charge to be forced back into the combustion chamber for a momentary supercharger effect. That is, by nature, the two stroke engine.

@cyber-ninja said in Hi from sunny Scotland:

@calum Reading - I'm more of a looking at 'pictures' type of guy. You know lots of curved bumps in all the right places etc. LOL

Nuff said

Basically, that effect you see in that picture is a direct result of the expansion chamber. Now the taper, angles and lengths, determine when and how long that pulse goes on for.

So you could have a savage pipe that creates 100000BHP, but at 20K RPM, which is unuaable for a DTR.

So yes, it can have a massive effect.

I'm not going to "like" this, as it's very sad.

Sorry to hear about this bud.

Unfortunately, these bikes are very desirable.

I hope you manage to keep this one.

@dtluke Yeah my brorher done this on his YZ. Laced His talon hubs to dtx excel rims using stainless spokes. Was lush.

@NINJA I don't drink I just wasn't near a computer capable of fixing it until Saturday.

Yeah, I wasn't able to get to it until Saturday I'm afraid. Too busy with work.

I can't really comment on DTR's, I don't know what they are worth. But you can get a dog ear'd DT as a rolling chassis for not much more. So why would I bother with a frame. Getting it powdercoated isn't hard.

My advice would be to build a DTR from it. It will cost money to do, but that's probably how you'll earn a buck on it. But you have to be clever/.

Wow, that's really steep price to begin with.

I know I would be looking around £100 for a UK frame. An imported frame, I'd look to pay a little less, otherwise what's in it for the buyer.

It's always whatever someone is willing to pay at the end of the day.

If it were UK registered it would be worth more, in my opinion.

Always difficult especially if you've painted it, because it might be towards your colour scheme.

Hello and welcome

+1 on silkolene.

It may start, but usually runs rough. The powervalve wants a decent 12v supply to run properly. You tend to find that the powervalve doesn't operate.

Don't rule the battery out though, it may just need a charge and be good to go.

Good luck.

Calum

@oldman Never too much OCD!!!

It's looking fabulous bud!

Yeah, looking fabulous. Adore the contrast in colours. Really love how you've done a true to the original job. Literally the replacement for @scrimsmustang

@oldman Aww nice, one of my favourite colours too!

Why are we getting shafted on fuel prices.

Aww mate. How awesome. Amazing photos.

I was half expecting to say you did it all on your DTR

Great stuff. Looks like a hell of a journey.

@oldman I know the difference between DEP and stock was mental. That's probably 50% of the performance gain

That said, original exhaust was built to last. And a stock gutted pipe did well!

@itstom I literally tell you in that post.

AHH!! Stop.

You have to measure the piston ring end gap! And modify so that's within spec.

It's common to see at least one, if not both, rings out of tolerance as it's expected that the user till measure and setup accordingly.

The ring end gap tolerance is in the haynes.

I wrote a guide on here on how to do it. It's not a secret, it's just different for every type of fork. Unless you use EXACTLY the same setup a me.

It's all on here.

https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/17/usd-conversion-bearing-cup-method

Seat looks grand!

Poor compression? Is the engine damaged.

Is the spark erratic.

Hey lovely.

Yes, that's an....interesting silencer. Not convinced on its performances for a smoker. Looks more like a banger exhaust.

But lovely bike nonetheless!

I don't count 125s as thirsty lol. I drive tuned turbo cars so a little 125 is nothing.

Rotax engines are race engines, so sure maintenance is increased. But they are fine in stock trim.

@SouthWalesYammy Stainless doesn't love tension. They don't like to be stretched. But the head bolts are like 11nm so don't need a lot of force.

If I had my time again, I would get an Aprilia MX125 as they are superior in every way. But they are getting pricier now.

Don't get me wrong, I adore my DT and wouldn't change it for the world.

M8 Dome IIRC. I got them from KayFast on eBay.

Hey Jake.

Hey good upgrade/ You can't go too far wrong on the DTX.

Throw up some images on here when you get a chance.

Don't know about that lol. It will crash cause it will run out of memory.

Wow, been a long time since I last backed up and updated the forum software. So I done that this morning, hence the outage.

If anything is broken, let me know. I noticed some packages are out of date, but I had to go to work so didn't get around to sorting those out!

Jetting should always be to suit.

There is a jetting guide on here. Just go through that until you've got your bike running to your mods accordingly.

@HassePallisgaard Run a clear line from the pump to the engine. Then if the pump fails you will notice the air in the line

@HassePallisgaard Why do you want to take it off?

It merely unbolts from the clutch cover. Then just remove the oil tank and oil lines. Remove the secondary throttle cable from the junction box.

I would remove the cog from the underside of the clutch cover to minimise unnecessary drag on the engine.

That being said...I'd leave the oil pump on.

I did this back in the day. Bought a h3 kit that came with everything you would need.

My advice, don't bother. The beam pattern is incorrect and you end up blinding oncoming vehicles.

Not really what you wanna be doing, especially with cars.

Very smart

@NINJA not that I recall.

What's the difference between the genuine and non genuine seat cover.

A specialist will tell you if you need a rebore.

I would at minimum get it honed. Don't need to touch the head. Depending on clearances, may need to modify the powervalve.

Fabulous stuff!

RE Stator will not fit. Since the flywheel goes on reverse.

@pedrobatista10 Aww FFS!

What a nightmare! Hope it's all okay.

Some old lady reversed into my Mazda this morning and drove off! I chased her down to pay for the damage!

Not good all round

@pedrobatista10 You've got this mate.

@dan28 I mean, the stock ones are not that heavy. I think any form of USD will be heavier, despite them being aluminium. But you end up with better handling because of it.

Focus on wheels, since if you want to shed weight you would be looking into something custom. The wheels I said are a direct fit.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192815216901

Is the generic type I used on my RE engine.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264446694058

Is one similar to the DTR one.

WR200 wheels are aluminium not steel so they are lighter.

Yes love it. Cracking bike mate.

@declan I think wemoto sell this part. Worked for me.

Provided you are talking about DTR.

I have got the generic puller off the eBay and that has never let me down. Used if on countless of stuff.

Jesus! Such a weapon.

Man i gotta get myself one of these haha!

Could be any number of reasons.

Is the engine worn. Clutch worn out?

Is the powervalve actually operating correctly, I.E. are you pining it in the open position.

Possible reed switch related then.

Otherwise the CDI could be going faulty.

Wow.

Yes fabulous build.

How come you're running conventional forks on your Aprilia? I'm sure they used USD's.

Top job though looks grand!

Pin the valve and try again. Sounds like the YPVS is retarding and limiting that upper power.

Hey looking smart. That pipe looks Phat!

Honda Grom

SP Moto?

Either way, your bike looks absolutely wicked! I bet that actually rips

@vass82 said in New bloke hello:

spmoto
Hello and Welcome.

I think I saw one of these the other night at my local Tescos.

Are they a chinese Honda Grom? I really wanted a Honda Grom. I wouldn't classify the Grom as a Pitbike :p

That's pretty cool. You got any photos? I bet it's rapid with that engine in haha!

@ward4014 Yeah shouldn't rattle. Be worth just whipping the clutch cover off to have a look if it's disconcerting,

It goes through various holes and the gearbox bearings.

There are plenty of ways for the oil to circulate.

I don't use the level, just put 750ml and don't worry about it.

Hello and welcome to the forum!

@NINJA Yeah, won't be able to host the forum off that though. Which means I'll have to pay for hosting

@declan And they want £40 a month for that. Haha SuperFast!

@NINJA

Yeah, look at that abysmal speed!

Look at that upload speed. Couldn't even host this forum with that sort of bottleneck. Look at the latency. I phone BT this morning and cancelled. That really is poor for a brand new house and a relatively new housing estate.

May actually have to pay for hosting to put the DT forum there.

Higher octane fuel from the petrol station won't really affect you too much.

It could just be a bad set of gas from the station.

Should try refilling it back up again.

Higher Octane fuel, if you're wonder, contains anti-knock properties. This property stops the engine detonating.

The reason why companies say it makes more power, or better on fuel, doesn't reside on the fuel alone.

It resides in the ability to utilise the higher anti-knock properties.

For you, on a stock DTR, what would this mean? Nothing. It means absolutely nothing. It doesn't mean more power in any way shape or form.

If you were in a modern EFI car. It means that the ECU could advance the ignition slightly to utilise the higher knock qualities of the fuel.

But since our bikes are carb, and I presume you're fairly stock tune, then no, it means nothing.

Me on the other hand, I run higher compression, more agressive advance ignition, higher combustion temperatures. All of those encourage detonation. Thus, higher octane fuel is a must.

There really is a lot to fueling, this was just a quick dump of information. Read Graham Bell's Two Stroke Performance Tuning if you want more information.

Yes but what's the TPI as it's not always a standard. I would measure with a thread gauge

@claws I can't remember, Did the belgarda stator also work. Cause I ran the belgarda engine on my RE ignition. Or did I swap the starter

Either way, check the electric start TDRs if they were ever a thing.

That's a cool frame colour!

@NINJA Yeah I like that. Is that the rear reservoir cause everything else is non-standard...

@oldman Thanks...keep us posted on that

@claws Well I have sold loads of stuff on eBay. So you're implying I sell dodgy gear.

There are genuine sellers on eBay.

That being said, I have bought some right nails before. But price was right.

Uhhmm

Inner rotor kits aren't that great for road going machines.

You won't be able to run lights, charge the battery etc.

Great for racing machines. But then you'd want a lighter chassis etc.

@NINJA it's a brand new house. They didn't even bother wiring fibre to the house. It's CAT 5e not even CAT 6. That's poor if you ask me.

@NINJA BT.

@NINJA Got internet just now.

Wow, it's crap tastic. a whole 3mb.

And I got to move the DT Forum to this with a whopping 0.2mb upload....

Yeah, this forum is going to take a hit in performance!

It's more subtle. My friend had a GSXR6 with GSXR engraved heel plates and the like. Looked smart I thought.

I think mine has RS engraved

@NINJA that's what I bought lol

My aftermarket clocks reset to zero. Now my mot history is all over the place. I don't intend on selling the bike so makes no odds to me. Would be nice to see how many miles I have done in ten years though.

2000+

For city riding a 4 banger would suffice. Only need to do 30. I would want a Honda Grom

Looks good to me pal.

Plug chops only really give you an indication when wide open throttle is applued at load.

For idle you will need an afr or colortune gunsome indicator.

I utterly adore carbon fibre. It is so pretty and so exotic.

Looks amazing. I hate to say it, cause I love tyga, but those heel guards are nicer.

Powdercoating is great for resilience.

But the finish isn't always the best. For things on show, can't bet 2 pack paint. Fot things that need protecting, powdercoat.

Wrap around exhausts are a compromise for clearance. This would be no good off road, but designed to be performant.

Jetting wise, on my vhsa, it's a tad lean. Breaking up in the mid range before it comes on pipe. Compare that to the dep pipe same setup, it was far too rich. So it is definitely utilising the fuel better.

Got some new grips and sorted some other niggles out.

Running sweet as a nut niw.

This pipe packs a punch and sounds the tits full chat.

@NINJA no sold that long time ago. It only comes out on dry days.

The later dts came with catalytic converters. I am not convinced that I would pay £175 for emissions, to fail. Two strokes are not manufactured for a reason.

@DTRLuke forum is quiet these days, just a few gear heads left.

Yo welcome back

No haven't seen norfe in years.

Frames are pretty solid. I am sure it could have been restored nicely.

You know it's whereabouts now?

What you thinking of getting now.

Hhmm, nothing new in there. @Louis-James has already been there done that. Documented it and using it.

@panmil92 I don't recall there being any certain type of weak point. Fairly bullet proof motors.

It's just general items. Bearings, bushes and seals.

I would have thought these would be readily available on ebay!

I have only ever used 5-30w car oil and never had issues. Had my DT nearly 10 years. The only time I've had issues is where I used Castrol Magnetec oil. Otherwise never missed a beat.

I would be interested in one.

Yeah flywheel goes on anyway.

@jamesdowning there are dots on the primary output shaft and the balancer shaft that must align. You can't get it wrong. You pull the crank upwards fullt TDC. Then slide the primary gear cog onto the primary shaft, mating it to rhe balancer shaft gear. The dots will align. Then timing is complete.

That's awesome! Love it

@declan I just searched for it on ebay

@NINJA I got lithium on the rs bud. So already have the charger.

Hey let us resurrect a dead thread...

Got the DT out of storage and it runs like turd. Battery is dead.

Bought a lithium battery for it. They are cheap now. £50 and it has 1/4 the weight. It's smaller too. And still packs enough punch to power the starter.

@claws It matters big TIME! Since it's dt125r.co..UK!!!

I'm messing, I'm sure he's just teasing you. Gas is ambiguous though. As you can run a car on gas, like LPG. Maybe he thinks you've done an LPG conversion on your DTR

@Darty Join the club. But most of us talk about different projects these days.

Oh yeah! Report back to us your findings

@claws You'd be surprised.

I'm not going into the specifics.

But Pressure=force/area

The force is generated via the vacuum of the engine, the area is the size of the carb.

If the carb increases sizes, but the vacuum remains the same then you will see a drop in pressure. Aka, the pressure to actuate the carb will lower and it may not be as effective, sine the carb works off the venturi effect, getting this balance right is important. Going too big can have adverse affects. Is 36mm too big? I'm not saying that, I'm just saying bigger is not always better.

It shouldn't be too hard to gauge. The tail lights go at the back, the head light goes at the front. Everything else lies in between.

@declan The race? No that should not move!

The bottome yoke has a taper roller bearing. The cup is interference fit into the frame, the roller bearings are interference fit onto the stem. The two tighten together. Be sure not to over tighten the triple clamps.

I dunno, seen worse...

Don't think the linkage changed throughout the years

I don't know if there are cheap alternatives.
Simply bearings is where I got my bearings £200ish for the lot

@Walney-Reptiles that's the only bearings I have used to build my engines with... You on about the gear linkage arm bearing? Never needed to replace that myself. It's not load bearing

Seals I got from pjme

https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/14/gearbox-bearings

Litterally just search

@NINJA HAHA! Literally was just reading an article on this! Yes it's literally my first thing I want to do. I had to move it, but before I grab my RS I will definitely be painting the floor!!!!

If you know of it, please recommend a paint and primer.

@oldman Thank you!

I would say let the projects commence...but turns out it's quite expensive!

@GoProKid95 I like the graphics cause it's not OTT like most you see.

@finnerz89 They are Mazda OEM wheels

Dark metallic blue. It's a dakar edition.

Yeah that looks well smart!

@NINJA Yeah it's covered in dust. It's completely straight and clean.

@NINJA Yeah there we go. Rotated the image.

Yeah use to be really common back in the day.

I detest noisy machines.

It adds not performance so why bother.

@Jgb19830 Okay, yeah how interested. CDI could be faulty.

I'm not sure how they work under the hood.

A little bit off topic...but yes/no.

It may do, but what you'll really notice is the spread of power across the rev range.

Yes I would

@Jgb19830 Meh? Gets old quick. Noisy but fine once past 6k

I like to disconnect it for a grin now and then!

I had this when my CDI went faulty.

Could be that you haven't adjusted it appropriately, or the cables are the wrong way around.

Disconnect the cables from the valve then do it. Does it still do it,.

You mean they show taper roller bearings?

That listing says it's an uprated part.

If the listing says for DTX then I'd go for it, and worry about when it arrives. If you pay through PayPal then you're well covered.

@stinkwheeler In the nearly ten years of DTR Ownership, I've never needed to dismantle the carb and change jets.

Okay, that's a far fetch statement.

My bike is tuned. But i literally slapped on a Dellorto 32mm tweaked the jetting, and it's been golden ever since.

My RS, wow, that was literally bought a 34mm Dellorto, slapped it on, went up the road and was like, yup already jetted.

So I don't see the benefit. Unless I want to race competitively, or need decent MPGs.

If you're comfortable with jetting your engine, then I don't see the point.

So common this.

You will need to just use lots of penetration fluid, heat and time and patience.

Renthal can make custom sprockets and it's not dear.

I contacted ARacing on eBay who made custom sprockets for my DTR.

@mhbikesnbits Have woeful brakes then.

@mhbikesnbits No but a bracket is simple enough to make.

I run Aprilia RS125 Brakes on my DT. Stopping power off the head!

I literally have no idea how to polish. I can never get that mirror sheen.

As I say, I run tubeless tyres on my DT. Just swap the wheels out for tubeless rims.

I run tubeless tyres on my DT for this precise reason.

I swapped the rims out.

That said, with that sort of mileage a week, you are just shifting the problem. How many miles are you doing before you get a puncture?

You can get heavy duty inner tubes. You shouldn't be getting punctures. Bike should do a lot more than that. Getting the right tyres, tyre pressure and inner tube will be paramount!

Does look sweet.

You've been keeping quiet though! How's it been going?

L00king smart bud

@declan You can take them off.

Inner rotor kits. But they are not practical for the road. Kill engines and no good uphill.

But for a flat track they're fine.

@declan What? the pick up is on the fly you numpty.

You would need an inner rotor kit.

the engine would also last five minutes. Flywheels are essential.

Hey that looks smart

@mhbikesnbits No. Norfe on the old site did it. Said it chewed through gears.

Yeah heard good results on the R

I think it's a good middle ground to be fair.

Nice engine.

Not to rain on the parade, I think it's slightly inferior to the 3XP00 engine. But let us know how you get on.

I think the ports are slightly different.

@autovictor Hey that's looking smart!

I got a YSS one on my RS. Lovely shock.

@mhbikesnbits said in My DT125 80s Yz style DT200 build one to watch!:

Vaqua

Wow, they've come up a treat.

Very nice. Comes up a treat in the shot blaster!

3MB head isn't restricted, but can be made better.

My advice would be to read Graham Bell's Two Stroke Performance Tuning.

It's not just a case of altering the squish band, but also the head height. Since altering the squish will reduce compression, you need to knock it back up by reducing the head to deck thickness.

Looks smart that.

Been years since I've properly ridden a motorbike.

October was the last time I rode my RS and that was for five minutes. But boy oh boy didn't I half have fun!

@declan I'm sorry to hear that, I bet your ISP is having a good giggle at that then.

Either make up that adaptor plate which is floating about, or swap the hub of the SM wheel.

Either way it's a simple process. If the wheels are cheap enough, and you want to have the option of both, it's doable

I highly recommend this.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAND-VACUUM-PUMP-HELD-BRAKE-BLEEDER-TESTER-SET-BLEED-CAR-MOTORBIKE-BLEEDING-KIT/391718817400?epid=9026714704&hash=item5b3442ce78:g:c48AAOSwB-1YuE1W&frcectupt=true

I've used it and it works wonders. Very cheap and Chinesy, don't expect it to last every day. But I've done countless cars/bikes with it. Great cheapy kit that works. Much safer than pumping the brake.

@Calum New Calipers and/or master cylinder was literally the only way to get them working. Bled straight away after that.

What you swapped out? The master cylinder. Does it definitely work?

I've had issues in the past, on my RS master cylinders that simply would not bleed.

Hello and welcome

That sure looks like some good inspiration, but you got a ways to go yet.

Be sure to spin up a project thread!

@bakerDT125R-SM Yamaha sell the fairings.

Lovely bike, just I wouldn't pay a premium for it. Definitely a collectors bike.

Ha, only spent 3K lol. Cute.

@connorjordan185 Then you don't have the green and black wire, since that's for 04 onwards. Yours will be the reed switch, exhaust and CDI.

@connorjordan185 No! Have you even read @NINJA's link?

I quote

"DTRE AND DT125X 2004 ONWARD!"
AKA not previous.

@Minia I don't know what it is of late, but I feel like we're getting really really vague questions being asked.

Minia is not wrong, but wow, can't really expect us to diagnose a fault off a sentence.

Someone might, but I'm much more of a "Give me the bike I'll do it" kinda guy.

There could be so many reasons as to why your bike is going wrong.

Air leaks usually cause high uncontrollable idling. Actually, in my experience, when you have an air leak, when you ride the bike, the biggest air leak, aka the carb, takes over.

Your problem could be down to any number of reasons. The fact it happens when you're riding, tells me that under load a problem occurs.

This could be, fuel, restricted air, too much air, ignition, worn engine, or misrouted cabling.

The list goes on and on.

You have to start with the basics, is it a fueling issue. Put fresh fuel in it.
Is it a carb issue, restrict the air box (does it improve?) Too much air, is it worse (not enough fuel) if nothing then the problem lies else where.

IS it an electrical fault. The coil, spark plug HT lead, pickup, or perhaps CDI is going faulty.

If you've gone through all those and it's none of them, then have a look at the engine. is the engine making good compression, is it time for a rebuild?

As I say, one sentence is not really helpful as you have not given us any context. Did the bike work? What did you do when the last time it was working.

If you can't be bothered to flesh out the problem, then you can't expect someone like me to impart all my knowledge and experience. Ultimately, we're not paid to help people. If the bike is broken and you can't fix it, then pay someone to do it for you.

Sorry if I sound frustrated, but I feel we've been getting this a lot lately. And then I spend time/energy thinking how to fix someones bike and it turns out they left the choke on, or something equally trivial.

This springs to mind

link text

Probably disrupted the float valve, that would be where I'd start looking first.

@NINJA True, but I'll take my hat off to you if you get any caliper post 05 to fit

@Dt-r_Bradders Was using that setup, but I don't think he ever finished it,

I'm not on the DT Hype any more, but tempting.

@ringdingding So not only will the oil be injected through the pump, but also the vacuum created under the engine. So it will draw more oil through under load etc.

@NINJA For your MX? Do it!

Yeah, just reaffirms what I've been saying for years. Zeel makes a massive difference. Good to read about other successes.

It could just be the carb has got gummed up, especially if you haven't dismantled it.

Taking it off the bike, dropping into a vinegar bath in an ultra sonic cleaner should help. Then reassembling it. If you're not comfortable doing that, then paying someone to clean it will have to be your option.

With regards to your exhaust studs that's a difficult one.

The exhaust studs should be removeable, but if you've damaged the housing then it would be very difficult to repair. I'm not even sure if a helicoil will work due to how much material there is left, so your best bet would be get a new cylinder.

Some photos may help here.

I know Yamaha around the corner from me are fussy with exhausts, but back street garages tend to be more lenient.

Both look to be in good condition to be fair.

Best bet is to just check with what they're going for on eBay.

I think they're ambitious with their pricing. But if that's the going rate, then don't short yourself.

The last one i sold I sold for £30.

@theportingmaster The exhaust port window is raised 1mm to allow great top end power. But is under utilised until an after market CDI is used. That was my experience anyway

That's not the head for that cylinder.

The 3MB00 head that matches that barrel has no markings except a matching P.

That said, 3MB heads are fetching good price now. Despite what some say, that head is worth £60+ all day long now. I've yet to see comparable prices for such a clean head.

Personally, having owned and installed the 3MB00P barrel, it's worth no more than a 3MB barrel.

I remember going to the scrap yard after my DT got nicked and grabbed any random fron wheel that looked like a match. Never had a problem.

@Glynn123 Just ring him, picked up like straight away for me

Could be the ECU that controls it.

Is it integrated into the CDI on this machine. Some DTR's used outboard ECU's to control the servos.

Either the servo is faulty, cables are faulty, there is excessive carbon build up in the powervalve area, or the ECU has gone faulty.

Start simple, checking the cables and the servo. Make sure the valve is clean and can be operated by hand. Otherwise you could be looking at a new ECU.

Failure to that, just pin the valve and have full power.

@stinkwheeler Yeah that looks balla!

@britshgigolo I never leave my bike without the disc lock, even as I pop into the shops. Although when I fill up for petrol I guess I don't use the lock but rarely use the steering lock if at all.

As far as insurance goes, it does have a steering lock, the theives broke it when they stole the bike. Can't see how they can disprove that.

All I'm saying is, I wouldn't pretend to think the steering lock does anything. A £20 disc lock takes just as long to engage and will be a much better deterent.

My brother linked me this yesterday in Hestersway Park.

Sick fucks, take what they can because there is no repercussions for those pricks.

Sorry dude, but a lot of us have been where you are. You're lucky they didn't take the bike, but steering lock is just false sense of security, you're better off without them. My DT doesn't have one. Get yourself a disc lock and chain. And keep the alarm!

@britshgigolo Most people don't bother replacing them once they get damaged.

Steering lock on the older models is part of the frame isn't it. They are a right nightmare to replace.

Mmm very tasty

@Glynn123 Plug chop is different.

When jetting the carburetor, the plug chop is used as an indicator of how the main jet, and/or power jet, is operating.

This is the last thing you will need to jet since alterations to other components may affect the main jet. So the first thing you want to do is get all the other pieces of the puzzle working nicely. Then before applying load to the engine you will need to make sure the engine doesn't break up or bog. Once you're happy it's running right up to 3/4 throttle and small instances of full throttle don't cause any problems, then worry about the plug chop.

@Glynn123 Detonation is an engine killer and occurs under load. It won't be a problem whilst you're just getting it setup. I.E. ticking over on the drive won't cause a problem. It'll obviously won't run right.

Fueling becomes a problem as heat is increased. Heat increases under load. That's where pre-ignition will occur.

No, start with the air screw, pilot jet and work your way up.

You can actually remove the main jet whilst you're dialing in your jetting. Since main jet only operates at 3/4 or WOT.

I posted a guide on here about jetting.

@NINJA Although that said, if you spot any project RS250's let me know.

What I got planned, it would be criminal to do to a fresh 250. So I'm looking for a project.

The new style RS125 Panels fit the 250s. I'm looking to do a Biaggi Replica to match the 125. I think that'll look sweet in my collection.

@stinkwheeler Yeah that's bad ass!

@Glynn123 I run the VHSB Carb on the RS, but that's what they had standard.

The DTR runs a TZR Barrel which ran the VHSA as standard.

I just modified the DTR inlet to fit, but you can get step down inducers as well.

@NINJA Not if it's not road legal.

@NINJA Was that Google Translate? We should get a plugin for that so we can understand what @declan is saying all of the time.

First gear generally won't give you a good enough indication. The key part of the plug chop is load.

You could look at a gunson colortune if you can't take it out.

Wow, bling bling.

I don't have the patience for that! Easier to have it powdercoated props to you.

That looks super!

Like with most things, the work is in the preparation.

@declan That's your problem then isn't it. Poorly fitted.

I've not had issues with O-Ring gaskets. Usually a dab of grease to hold it in situ is enough to sort any problems out if you're having them.

@2stroketerry That looks the tits. Who did that for you?

@Bluestoesonnose I'm not saying it's not possible, I do question it's reliability. O-Ring modification would probably be your best bet. But the discussed factors should be considered.

@Bluestoesonnose I know LC motors are alloy, I was specifically referring to the AC motors since I'd expect this to be where it would work reliably.

But I've not heard anyone do it to DT's. I guess there must be a reason why it's not so common these days.

I doubt you'll get it to seal.

Back in the Air Cooled days, the engines were cast iron. As such they were less prone to warping. Aluminium will literally just warp.

The best you can get is a machine O-Ring into the head to eliminate the head gasket. The Rotax engines use these.

You have to be careful with how much compression you run, pre-ignition and detonation is going to creep in at these sorts of levels and kill your engine.

@oldman Oh yeah that's bad. Definitely running that oil too rich. Definitely not gearbox oil right?

Oh cool, gives it that OEM look.

I actually wouldn't mind getting a Grom one day

Nah, what a waste of time and money. Besides you've been riding the grom wrong...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imWqQUoBgf8

@Minia Decent bud!

@Bananper Without seeing a dyno it's hard to actually gauge.

Two stroke exhaust pipes work off resonance, fitting a pipe designed for another engine is incredibly unlikely to work as intended.

If it does work, then what is likely to be experienced is a shift in power. The WR200 exhaust is designed to produce a particular sound wave at a particular RPM for a particular engine.

When that translates to the DTR, it's likely that it's making less power down low, then picks up to an acceptable level. The change from where it makes less power, to more, (I.E. powerband) is likely to be exaggerated, such that the user thinks it's faster. But without a dyno, it really is hard to tell.

In other words, stick to an exhaust designed for the engine. As it has been designed to provide optimal results.

@Bluestoesonnose Getting that map sorted on the Zeel will make a big difference, and I'm not just talking about ignition timing. Don't overlook the powervalve timings, especially if you decide to have the cylinder and head ported.

Having the head modified will make a big difference to that mid-range power.

Yeah it's difficult, not actually having a DTR200 I can't really help. Besides mapping really ought to be done by someone who knows what they're on about. I could share a map that melts your piston, and you wouldn't be too impressed!

@NINJA There are only 7 threads in this section loi. Pinned anyway.

Yeah I don't think it's as simple as you think Declan.

It's not a case of spacers for the wheel, the rotor offset as to be exact, else you'll risk having a braking imbalance on the front wheel.

Probably not so much an issue if it's a single pot caliper, but if you've got pistons either side...

If it's not identical then I expect the brakes will bind.