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I've don't think I've seen it being done. It almost sounds by which point you'd have a KTM LC2, so why not just go and buy one of those instead?
There are lots motorbike combinations from the Yamaha family which can be made to fit the DTR, so if it's upgrades you're looking for then it's worth exploring those first.
Full rebuild sounds overkill for such a low mileage.
It'll probably be something simple like gunk in the exhaust and/or intake or carb issue.
I'd get a compression tester and measure the compression the engine's outputting. Should be in the 140 range if the engine is healthy.
@daley1471 looks clean
@HOTSHOT-III Absolutely spot on information here.
I've not had the thermostat fail on me, but MY GAWD does my DTR run hot. I am not making this up, my Vespa runs cooler than my DTR.
The DTR could seriously benefit from a lower opening thermostat, especially when you tune.
I've removed my thermostat and now the DT runs a cool 60 degrees. But you're absolutely spot on about having pressure at the cylinder head. It is stops pockets of stale gas forming causing hot spots on the cylinder head (promoting knock).
@HOTSHOT-III has documented this I belive.
https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/2980/special-tool-for-fork-disassembly/4
@YYHpilo Oh that is so fricken cool!
So two strokes make an awful lot of power just in the head alone.
I'd say the money is expensive and the best way to get performance out of your cylinder is to have the head ported to your setup (piston etc).
But I'd buy this if I were still tuning DTRs. That's a lovely bit of kit!
Use an image hosting site like imgur and link them over in 
I found a very nice Tomas Compitsite flywheel cover and fan shroude combo. As well as a gear selector cover and a spare wheel cover.
Sadly, the other two items have not arrived yet.
As @HOTSHOT-III has stated, if you're not running a powervalve then this will hinder performance. If your model has restrictions on it still, then this may have been why the powervalve was pinned. Certain CDIs close the powervalve after certain RPMs, limiting the top end potential.
All of which can be worked around these days with no real dramas.
Yeah it's worth checking that first. I haven't done a set of DT cases for a while, I've never done 200 cases.
Hello,
What's the mileage on your machine? Depending on how many miles it's done will influence what type of servicing is required. Have you got any history for the bike, do you know what's been done on it in the past?
@HOTSHOT-III has already given you a wealth of information to get started with, typically these machines are very reliable and dependable, but I always err on the side of caution, if it can be done, then I like to do it.
Just checking, the crank seals aren't blind on the 200 cases are they?
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4136407/dt200r-dt200rh-3cj8-1996-010-a/crankcase
I can't recall whether they can only be insterted with the bearings out. That's certainly the case for the RS engines.
The last time I did crank cases on my DTR I used Yamabond and used a thin paint brush to apply it.
Oh interesting. Seems like its a collaboration with Italkit.
No good for a road going machine. You won't be able to run any lights etc. I'd recommend grabbing a lithium battery to go alongside this.
I don't think the ignition timing is reprogrammable and it has a fixed static angle. So it terms of flexibility, from the limited information I read, it seems very limited.
Great for race applications where you are basically open or closed throttle, but I'd steer clear for road use.
Ignitech or Zeeltronic ignition systems for the win for a road going setup.
Yeah, I've always had my eye on an Lanza 230. Once upon a time you could pick them up dirty cheap! But the price of them now, I can't justify it and I just think there are other bikes I'd rather own.
Sticking with the Yamaha family, I'm now fully invested into RD350s. I've sort of always been around Aprilia in some shape or form, but I think if I'd to get another supermotor or trail bike, it'll be an EXC300 TPI.
That's if the electric bikes don't suddenly take off 
Typically what are you gaining on a two stroke with engine braking... It's not like a four stroke.
When down shifting I always blip the throttle, to both rev match and maybe give it a squirt of oil.
I certainly wouldn't be going down a big hill engine braking the whole way at high rpm on a two stroke. Nice blips on the throttle and a high gear to keep the RPMs down.
When it comes to competition bikes, well reliability is all out the question and if engine braking does even a fraction of slowing down then it's worth it, but for road going use I only engine brake in an emergency.
I don't think Lanza parts are particularly cheap these days, so the MXE is probably the cheaper bet to be fair.
The original Mikuni had two feeds on either side that you connect via the cylinder head.
I've never bothered in 15+ years of DTR ownership.
My last one I bought I must have waited so long that the engine packed up before I really got to use it. I have one fitted to my ETX but I got that from PJME I believe and they had that on the shelf.
When my Yamaha CDI went faulty I sent it back to Borut directly and that was a few week turnaround I remember.
