@SpookDog Mate, that's a mental amount of riding!
Calum
Posts
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So Close!... -
Head scratcher@SpookDog I wouldn't get excited about the shrink wrap, it's not a DTR after all.
https://motorradteilehannover.de/Yamaha-TDR-125-5AN-Bj-1997-control-unit-CDI-control-part-A3999
Does look very similar to a DTRE ignition system though. Zeeltronic might be a good upgrade to the TDR ignition system.
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4BL flywheel removalYou can get someone to sit on the bike and put the rear brake on and that can be used to undo the nut.
Or you can whip the cylinder off and place two pieces of wood on the crankcases and run a piece of metal through the small eye and use that to lock off the crankshaft.
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Forum OutageForum patched upgrade. I addressed an issue where some of the links were broken. Shout out to @Arite for letting me know what the fix was.
As usual, you'll need to clear your browser cache and refresh.
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Head scratcherThat's what it sounds like to me. The more load part makes sense.
You're not running any aftermarket "racing" coil are you? I had this with this knock-off Chinese racing coil that had me scratching my head for ages!
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Head scratcherHhmm, doesn't sound good. Is it smoking excessively? Could be clutch side crankshaft seals based off what you're saying.
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Head scratcherYes it's possible to get the powervalve cables the wrong way, pretty sure that was a restriction on some models.
What I would do, take the exhaust, turn the ignition on, turn it off when the valve is flush with the exhaust port then disconnect the powervalve cables.
Ride it like that, if it's running rapid now then you know it's the powervalve.
Other things can be things like exhaust can have a massive effect
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Turn off switchYeah it should be possible.
What type of button are you looking for? Momentary button or a toggle button?
Toggle button would be simple, momentary button would probably be possible but a bit faffy.
You effectively bring the voltage to the ground state, but you'd need to wait for the engine to stop spinning before letting go.
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Wheels and SuspensionYeah, the part numbers are different.
DTR Fork: 3BN-23102-01
TDR Fork: 4FU-23102-00 -
Wheels and SuspensionAre they not the same? I think the TDR should be just as capable off road as the DTR. Neither particularly brilliant but do the job.
I didn't think the forks were different.
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The Dionysus Project (Aprilia ETX 125 Rotax 122)Annoyingly genuine clutches always seem to be out of stock. Actually not much meat left on the original one (it's done well to be fair). PJME recommend genuine as the best, but if they can't get them in stock...then needs must.
Ferodo is a good brand though and I'm not expecting RS 125 power here and it will never be dailied in my ownership so should be fine...
Ordered one of these for my RS125 years back (Billet Clutch Pressure Plate). I bought this a long time ago too and it's just been sat gathering dust. Not sure if it actually makes any difference, but it's a nice little item.
Either way it's got to shave off some precious weight from a reciprocating mass, alongside the titanium bolts. Although the stiffer clutch springs probably add some weight back on....you win some you lose some.
Hhmm, I honestly don't know what a previous owner done to this bike, but they just covered everything THICK with paint. After much scrubbing and cleaning I...abandoned that idea and bought new/used parts instead.
Brand new TYGA sprocket cover and generator cover. I bought a used generator cover off of eBay for an RS125. sprayed it black and affixed the carbon fibre generator cover on. The original engine is black, and I want to keep the bike close to its original colour scheme/trim where possible, but it'll never be original.
Can't find what I done with the kickshaft seal or gear linkage seal, so will need to get those on order.
The oil sight glass had melted, so I'll need a new one of those and will grab some new oil fill and clutch adjustment cover as well as a oil drain bung.
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ATHENA 170ccMy mate used to ride his Athena everywhere pinned.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bOGAEzTaBgI
Was very reliable.
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ATHENA 170ccYou'll want to adjust the jetting to suit.
To get the most out of the Athena you'll want a bigger carburettor. I run the VHSA out of the TZR 4DL Belgarda.
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ATHENA 170cc@StanKn I'm not sure about that, I've just been around DTRs for a long time. Probably done every modification under the sun and back again. So I know a little more than average about them. True masters are people like @oldman @scrimsmustang @HOTSHOT-III to name a few.
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ATHENA 170ccI highly recommend the Zeeltronic ignition systems. I own 4 of them. That was the single biggest improvement on my Yamaha IMO.
Yeah, I've grown to like the Athena I must admit. If you go back 10 years, you'll find posts of me not loving it so much. The reason is, my friends all had Aprilia RS125s and they just run rings around the DTRs. The fact is, I wanted something like a YZ or Aprilia in terms of performance.
I've now grown to realise that the DTR was never going to be on par with those bikes, no matter how much I spend. So now it's just about appreciating the DTR for what it is. The Athena is more akin to my type of riding, when I'm on my DTR.
When I'm on my RS, it's all about revving the nuts off of it
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ATHENA 170ccQuality is lovely to be fair and when setup properly they go well.
There is a huge loss of over-rev, but the midrange is brilliant. Dies off around 10,000RPM.
Couple this with a pipe and a proper ignition system then you're in for a real treat.
The bore is nikasil plated and the head is independent from the skull cap. So overall it's nice quality.
I had mine ported by Mick Abbey as well.
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crank noiseThere is a spot where the starter motor goes. And there is a piece up top near the inlet manifold.
It literally only needs a gentle tap.
The other good technique is just use the flywheel puller. These can be had on eBay for next to nothing and can even be made from scrap metal. It's well described in the Haynes.
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crank noiseUndo the bolts, dismantle the clutch/generator and then gently tap the casings apart. I use a rubber mallet.
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crank noiseI've never used a case splitter. What is a case splitter?
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crank noisePJME is your friend. Make sure you get the right clearances as well. C3 IIRC.
Yamaha DT125R Crankshaft Main Bearing LH
Yamaha DT125R Crankshaft Main Bearing RH
I always replace all other gearbox bearings whilst you're there, but that's just me and my OCD.