@spookdog I guess the answer to that one is no??
I think I put a chinese one on my RS and it caught fire. So definitely don't buy knock off.
Even the copy, which I thought was genuine cost £30 and the genuine one was £100+ so there is obviously a difference somewhere.
@markus-w Well if it makes you feel better, I made the logo in Inkscape about 8 years ago.
view-source:https://dt125r.co.uk/assets/uploads/system/site-logo.svg?v=b5uv78ggeb2
Copy that and put in the browser. It's only Yamaha inspired, it's red because that's my favourite colour.
I will admit though, I didn't know Yamaha used a different logo for their motor corporation. It's a subtle difference that I never knew.
Now that you mention it though, it does look like it needs changing. The favicon is the same as asset too. If I get round to it, I'll swap it out for the motor logo.
@spookdog And is it any wonder, that Yamaha "invented" "Torque Induction" (reed valve technology), given their involvement in the music world. And the reed cage being oddly similar to the reeds in wind instruments.
@markus-w https://www.yamaha.com/en/about/history/logo/
Are there any differences between the Yamaha Logo and that of Yamaha Motor?
The biggest difference is that logo of Yamaha Corporation is colored in violet, its corporate color, while that Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd, its sister company, uses red.
@spookdog The pump on the later engines just come straight off? Leaving the spline intact, but no dramas about that. Although I did remove that as well and just created a blanking plate.
@klebocna101 Certainly closed throttle at 8k RPM you won't be getting enough oil. So you will need to remember to blip the throttle on coasting. This should really be done on autolube systems as well.
Two strokes in engine, blipping throttle on downshift, as you go from low RPM to High RPM just injects that little bit of lube forr the revs that it's going to.
Fueling wise, it shouldn't really make much difference. I'm not sure about the above comment about the carb not being designed for premix. The carb is just a fueling mechanism, autolube or not. I am not aware of any carb being context aware as to whether or not it's going to have premix oil in it.
At the time of writing, I currently own 3 Aprilia RS 125s. I've had this one for quite some time, well the frame at least. I've been sorting bits out on it for the last few years, collecting and buying parts that are needed for this project. I am in no hurry to complete this project, time is on my side.
After completing The Helios Project I was left with an insurmountable of spare parts, enough in fact to almost build a second Aprilia RS. In total, 4 engines, 3 swinging arms, subframes, tanks etc...
Whilst The Helios Project is based on the ethos of, "What I would have loved at 17", with no expense spared and modified. This bike is supposed to be as it left the factory, although as you'll see later I didn't really stick to this.
I got this frame in a bargain job lot for £220, it's an older Extrema Frame '98 spec and came with a horde of parts that are completely not needed (back on eBay they went). The result of my endeavours saw that this bike paid for itself, after selling the parts I didn't need.
You can't complain, for something that was free, however the frame appears to have been in a war zone. The side stand mount had a big crack in it. There were gashes and scratches on the frame and various other affairs.
I cut the side stand mounts off, and had new piece tig welded in its place. Buffed out the scratches and had it painted matte black.
It's come out well and you wouldn't know that it was in a sorry state when I got it.
I've ran out of room in my garage, need to shift some of these bikes elsewhere, so for the meanwhile, I'm fortunate to have a spare room in my home to build this one.
Already ordered the fairings for this bike.
A set of Genuine Fakes from Australia (China although they pretended to be from Aus...).
$900 buys you a complete set of painted panels. I've got to say, this is an absolute steal. The Helios Project cost me a few thousand to find all genuine panels for that, so for around £400 to have all the panels brand new.
The panels are known to be brittle, don't expect OEM here.
The painting is fantastic, the colours pop!
I can't recommend these copies enough if I'm honest.
How it's sitting at the moment.
I did order a few genuine (albeit used) panels in some areas as the genuine parts are made of that plastic they use on car bumpers so are literally bullet proof. The new fakes went straight on eBay.
Along with some genuine panels, I couldn't resist buying some high quality carbon fibre panels.
Some lovely carbon fibre winglets from a company in Croatia.
Ignore the mudguard, that's for the Raptor.
I did get some more Tyga carbon, including front mudguard, rear hugger and silencer.
The generator cover is for my other bike as annoyingly it is missing!
No fancy engine work on this build, I am trying to stick as close to factory as possible.
Stock Gilardoni Barrel
All fresh ready to go into an engine.
No fancy large carburettor on this bike (or so I thought), I wanted the factory one.
To my knowledge, this is the PHBH 28mm round slide. But I was aware that the later models featured EFI. Not sure what that stands for, but I assumed it was something that bolted to the carb.
[PICTURE TO FOLLOW]
But I was mistaken, actually the later models ran a Dellorto VHST which I managed to snag for a very good price. It was just listed as an Aprilia RS 125 carb and not the model. Managed to get it 50% RRP. This is a special carb that has a throttle position sensor in it. And like the carb, requires a different CDI (which I thought I had so that went back on eBay).
The carb works with the CDI to change certain parameters on the engine. Lord knows what this means in practice, since it cannot control fueling, just ignition timing and powervalve timings, but I like the idea. I plan on keeping my PHBH carb though, as again it's something I got "Free", from The Helios Project.
Spare suspension linkage came up really nice with a quick refurbishment.
A quick rinse on the buffer to remove the dullness from the blasting.
The Helios Project will never be finished, it's an ever on going project which sits as a piece of art work in my garage, very rarely ridden (I think I've been on it a total of 10 times since completion). I'm currently trying to build a stroker engine for it to bring its displacement up to 165cc but maintain the squareness of the engine and thus keep its high reving nature.
Why I went for the Max Biaggi Race Replica colours is a mystery and I still have an itch to scratch, that is to revive my first road motorbike.
The last photo of the bike next to my DT (Still owned)
The Spains No 1 aka Jorge Lorenzo Race Replica...
This is The Chronos Project
@zx125 The powervavle covers have bushes on them. When they wear they rattle. And apparently can cause the engine to seize believe it or not.
So make sure the powervalve end bushes are in good condition
I think this was the video I saw on it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Rk8a51VqBc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REPjGEhrZKQ
Description:
Finally its time to make a start rebuilding the 'top end' of the Yamaha TDR250's engine. Due to a previous Power-valve to piston contact causing immediate engine seizure I performed a complete top end strip down to see what had gone wrong...
@zx125 Sure, as long as the timing marks are aligned then that's fine.
The clutch basket has a rubber union connecting the primary shaft to the output shaft.
This rubber can deterioate over time. Did you notice any slack in the basket.
I'm just trying to throw ideas at you for noisy operation.
On that note, the clutch plates themselves must also be balanced. I assume this was done correct. This will also cause noise.
@zx125 When rebuilding the engine, you must ensure that you timed it appropriately.
Whilst on a two stroke engine there are no cam shafts to time, a lot of engines still have timing marks. On these engines the timing marks denote top dead centre on the crank shaft and the balancer shaft.
These must be timed correctly otherwise you will encur excessive vibrations, and likely ringing, from your engine.
Are you confident that you reassembled the balancer shaft appropriately?
@ninja Merry Christmas!
Jeez, can't remember the last time I rode my DT!
@tbthegr81 Hello,
Definitely do your research on what pipe you go for.
I can't speak for Athena's pipe specifically, but the DEP pipe made a huge difference to my DTRE stock engine. The weight difference alone is impressive.
But yes, a stock pipe can make a difference. The thing is, with the later RE engines, they had a huge honeycombe catalyst system in the expansion chamber. The earlier models didn't have this restriction. Assuming of course it is the correct pipe for the year.
Merry Christmas to all!
Hope you all have a wonderful day, especially during these trying times!
Let's hope the new year brings new positive changes to the world!
@jacobx5sv standard jet is 210, 240 on earlier models.
With those mods, 210 main is about right. But really jetting to be done to suit. Anything, even just a change of piston quality, can have an effect on jetting.
If you aren't sure, get it on a rolling road with an Air Fuel Sensor connected to dial it in. Otherwise its just guess work.
@taff18 I thought it was under the seat unit on the older DTR's.
The newer shaps have them behind the right hand radiator shield.
Edit: Striked out my comment as they it appears to be incorrect.
