DT125R FORUM

No, I'm currently in the process of modelling an Airbox delete and battery holder. But that's to remove the air boot.

Aprilia ETX Suspension Bushes Bearings

AP8163318 - Aprilia MX Shock Absorber
856715 - Aprilia RX/SX Shock Absorber
AP8135848 Aprilia RX 1995 Swinging Arm

AP8121121 - Swinging arm pivot bush
AP8105132 - Swinging arm pivot bolt

Uses same suspension linkage & swingingarm pivot bolt.
The swingingarm pivot bushes are the same and are also used in the Aprilia RS 125.

@HOTSHOT-III Does sound interesting, for my long-term Aphrodite project I definitely need to set this up properly. So either I'll be taking it somewhere, or I'll be learning the ins and outs to get it in the right ball-park.

The front suspension is like a pogo stick.

I swapped out the front suspension with Upside Down Forks from a WR450F.

That was quite involved but transformed the handling.

A quick win is to swap out the front springs. I am pretty sure @HOTSHOT-III has some good ideas as well.

https://ebay.us/m/k8sKLF

No, this was obviously a very common conversion.

The problem is not only obtaining the wheels, but getting the forks and adapter plate to go with it also!

No you don't need to open up the engine all the way. It's just a push rod system, if the clutch cam isn't engaging with the push rod then it might be because the push rod has fallen beneath the cam arm so you're not able to position the cam behind the push rod.

I've never had this happen to me personally, I don't recall this being an issue, but the design is very simple so there is very little to go wrong.

What commonly happens is that the ball bearing inside the engine can get misplaced, which presents itself in a similar manner as you're describing. But this is not possible without dismantling the engine.

In essence what you have can be pictured as below:
|_._

The | is the cam that you slot from the top of the engine.

When the cable is pulled, it twists the cam which acts on the first pushrod denoted here by _. This is space separated with a ball bearing, denoted by . which pushes a further push rod denoted by _.

What might be possible is that you've ended up in situation where you've pulled the cam out and now the setup is like:
|
_._

The cam is now resting on top of the push rod and is no longer engaged with it. So when you pull the lever, nothing happens.

I can't remember whether this is even possible, but if it is then you'll notice the cam is sitting a lot higher outside the engine and would be obvious. I am not sure if the pushrods are under load, but if they're not, then leaning the bike over towards the clutch may cause the rods/ball to move allowing the cam to be lowered appropriately.

If that doesn't work, then no it's not a full dismantlement. It's just a case of taking the clutch cover off, and taking the clutch pressure plate off to expose the push rods. Extracting them (by leaning the bike over careful not to misplace the ball bearing) and then inserting the cam in first.

BUT I REALLY don't think that's what is happening here. It's probably more likely that the clutch just needs adjusting. I'd recommend referring to the Haynes manual for this.

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/main/img/assemblies/large/a657ca561064c1db3436c5e554187dac.png

As you can see, it's incredibly simple design, so it'll be something easy.

Hello there,

There isn't much too the clutch arm. Basically the clutch arm has a cam on it and a rod with a ball a bearing followed by another rod.

When you pull the lever, it actuates the cam which pushes the rods to overcome the clutch springs which is holding the clutch plates down.

Based on that description, assuming nothing else has changed, either you haven't adjusted the clutch cable enough, or the fact you've pulled the cam out may have caused the push rod to take it's gap, meaning the cam is no longer engaging the rod.

I am not sure if that's even possible, I have always put the rods in before the clutch arm and I've never had an issue. So it's probably that you haven't adjusted the clutch cable properly.

So long as the end can is straight through and not restrictive you should be fine.

You just need something that you can mount. I run a JollyMoto end can on my DTR.

If you're not in the UK you should be fine.

Search for The Leviathan Project on here and you'll find all the photos of the bike since I bought the thing in 2010.

Well, I don't run the DEP system anymore and all my photos of my DT are on Ransomware Imgur which is blocked in the UK. So I don't have any photos anymore.

But there are some photos here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZ1C_xCmqWg

@buzzinga228 nah the DEP bike fixes as normal, it's just a stock image.

Unless they've changed the design of course, but I doubt it.

I really liked this pipe on my DTRE.

Here's one for your year.

https://www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk/products/dep-2-stroke-nickel-front-pipe-yamaha-dt?variation=283926

You don't need to modify the cases to run the Athena 170 kit. Not sure where you've gotten that from.

The 3BN is the restricted head, 3MB is the non-restrictive head.

You don't really need to faff about with dialing in the Zeel as it comes with 5 maps that they've tuned. Of course to maximise the performance then yeah, you need to dial it in. But it was one of the single most performance increases I noticed.

You can go one step further and fit the entire VForce4 Reed Block assembly.
https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/2914/vforce4-reed-block-upgrade-yamaha-dt125r-re-x

Zeeltronic and Exhaust made the biggest changes to me.

I never got on with the port tuning if I'm honest.

And the one thing I've grown to appreciate is the Athena Big Bore kit. It took a long time to appreciate it, but when you accept the DTR isn't an RS 125, then having the extra CCs and drop in overrev, actually suits the DTR nicely.

That's normal. All DTs are like that.

@mbmO8 yeah I hear it. Obviously it's hard to identify it on a video.

But often the powevalve can come loose and that might be a sign of it. Whip the right hand side off and have a look to see if the bolt has come loose.

It sounds sweet!

It's not the powervalve end cap is it?

@HOTSHOT-III Hopefully the issue gets resolved as I don't want to lose the data they're hosting.

The important stuff I ought to host here to guarantee it isn't lost.

See the recent news that imaging hosting site Imgur has been revoked access from within the UK.

This is incredibly frustrating as my builds and tutorials are now blocked access there.

To access any material on Imgur which this forum relies on, in an attempt to migrate, a Virtual Private Network (VPN) can be utilised to circumvent this measure until the restrictions are lifted.

There are free alternatives that can be used, but Opera offers a Free VPN service built into the browser, and I have confirmed today that this works.

An alternative approach is to use another site like Flickr or GooglePhotos. I migrated to GooglePhotos a while back, but found it painful to use.