Anyone have any idea whatβs going on and what I could t try to get the bike going?
I think this is probably your problem. Instead of addressing the issue which caused your bike to fail the first time around, it sounds (going from your description) that all you're interested in is getting it going again, which unfortunately, on a 19 year old bike, probably isn't enough.
Why did it fail the first time round? Once you understand that, you'll be in a better position to address the follow on issues.
What made you think it was a coil? Did you measure the impedance between the primary and secondary coil and it was out of tolerance? What were those measurements? Did you replace with a genuine 3RM coil? Those Chinese aftermarket ones are only worth throwing in the bin, they do not work!
It sounds like there are two issues here, one is sounding ominously electrical, the other clearly mechanical and until you strip the bike down to investigate and eliminate you'll continue to have problems.
The DTRE in stock trim is an incredibly reliable machine, but that said 20k and you'll going to want to do some TLC overhauls.
The engine failed last year and damaged the barrel, well there is no real reason it would do that unless the maintenance schedule wasn't adhered to. Or the oil pump failed. The problem with the latter is throwing a new piston/barrel at the problem doesn't fix anything and is money wasted. If it was just worn rings and you were hammering it then that's just lack of maintenance.
I could throw you a whole raft of potential solutions but sounds like your bike is a bit of a basket case.
Because of this there is likely a whole host of things that your bike could be missing and botched so diagnosing is a bit of a rabbit hole. My advice put the bike back to factory OEM spec and go from there.
Why do the plugs keep failing? Are they black sooty? Has the oil pump failed and just throwing copious amounts of oil at the engine fouling plugs, is it because there is no YPVS and it's thrown the settings off.
But throwing in some simple checks, probably:
- Neutral Switch/Clutch Switch/Side Stand Switch
- A combination of this will cause the bike to start in neutral, but kill the engine if in gear is detected.
- Ignition Barrel
- Aftermarket ignition barrels corrode and break down and result in erratic behaviour
- Ignition Coild Fly Lead
- Faulty CDI
- Lazy battery/Faulty Stator
- The engine requires power to run, if the stator is failing or not being rectified correctly then you'll find problems running
I can go on, but really you want to tear the bike down, do a compression check, make sure the engine is healthy, that the airways are clear, exhaust, intake, airbox etc. Carb isn't blocked.