I've not used aftermarket cranks on the DTR. Ultimately the bottom end isn't designed to last forever so it does depend on how it's been treated and used. PJME typically stock quality items, just make sure it's correct for your year of bike.

Looking at the price of them, I can't imagine they're being as good as the OEM ones, but should be fine to use. The DTR is pretty woefully powered so you should be fine.

Maybe others have had better experience than I though.

I typically would get someone to rebuild it for you, my local garage charges £30 and then spend the extra money getting a quality connecting rod.

Cheers @HOTSHOT-III. No me neither, but there seems to be some sort of cult following for this specific bike.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266746773795?_skw=inbred+saddle&itmmeta=01JCWRW4QB5SS11ZFX8KDWMB3R&hash=item3e1b58c123:g:Og4AAOSwmM1mCeqw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkWfuy4MxoMsoGrwb2giF5IuJ4JUgTU2sobSDUxWJJ10sEFzFekpJiuBA1RUgJDZT3BcLltngaRYdfZlWDBqDIuW8h9xlCDdZALoSOtQpSRe47adfMUnpkk4H3DUZflKOtKOl5JTDqNYsBWEdR5bIxefoBgwy%2FLiXqQufFVlWCCANyJRs7zFvxjx2zPVnY7u%2B9hsGIU1B4%2FLq50EP1J8SvaEFKXz1tRRTWqsH3KpAGG0hoN90GwbF2wAxLDkeRjx9jvJeGw3RRbpPDX99jeRTS9o51KFaqCLJzIXxSkvkyUSA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-TL8JjnZA

That's the saddle and they want £110 USED.

And the single speed frames seem to command decent money on the used market.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166940463387?_skw=inbred+on+one&itmmeta=01JCWRXAMN8GW0M7WRC1W1C62H&hash=item26de6d511b:g:rHcAAOSwovlmzdPf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnglou7JHksNfzbpds5ZHq%2B6K7Gg%2F8jKo0lS%2Fw88V3fscSTfcW71enskrh3LBLi%2FwqWsYjd0DSrWYVJnI3eSjESH7fphYY5BP%2BwSOliuVCeNdYzzxbH%2BwIelzDEqelFESKo70TdnrFQVMNUQjPIAS%2BGS0WWHxT%2FLKFyVJkF03R%2F6BM28TTet1e%2BQxKxgJN4gCWorRud3Ul8VMfLlCiQhEUi53Elq2oB9S38mlf711AYvdhswdZFCKWjWM2VinoRx7TNmVm5I2TAd8Qnn0ojSc09dZisy9qNF6iw7ReEjNA%2F3g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7Sq9ZjnZA

This one here is for £600!

Few teething issues just snagging the bike yesterday morning and then went to go ride the bike and came back to a flat tyre. Not sure if it was a defective inner tube as the puncture repair kit just melted the inner tube.

So I've ordered some more inner tubes and if I can be bothered could cycle over to Halfrauds and buy one so I can use it today.

The floating parts of the disc were fouling the bike/caliper so some minor adjustments needed and setting the chain tension etc. But it's basically there. Went around the block and I probably need to drop a few teeth on the front chain ring as I won't be doing any uphill cycling with it as it is. Fast on the flat though

Asclepius Project (On-One Ti29er Inbred Lynskey)

Merely documenting this for my own sakes for when I need to replace something

This is a small project for something I have been looking for for about three years and randomly popped up on eBay back in September, which I immediately hit the "Buy It Now" button and worried about how I'd pay for it later

The Beginning

Five years ago I moved 15 or so miles from my place of work, where I'd used to run to work, I'd now have to cycle. What I found was that given enough time, something would let me down and my commute to work would be hindered.

One day on my way to work both of my bikes failed on me, if it wasn't an inner tube Blow Out, then it was the derailleur. My Dad had this original Single Speed On One Inbred hung up in his garage for the past ~15 years. He generously donated me the bike and it's so simple that it can be relied upon due to the minimal amount of things that can go wrong. It's a cracking bike, but not content with leaving anything alone, I decided to dismantle it and throw some money at it.

Having it in a damp garage done it no favours and the frame suffered some minor surface corrosion and was generally a bit tatty.

Once I started using the bike, I became absolute enamoured with it and there began the hunt for the perfect Single Speed bike.

The problem with this base came in four folds:

• It was a medium frame and I'm 1.81 metres
• It was an old school 26er setup
• It utilised rim brakes
• It suffered from some minor visual blemishes due to being steel

I was therefore on the hunt for a Titanium Large 29er Single Speed Frame. After 6 months of scouring the web, all I could find were either Mediums/Geared/26er/Cracked. It seems that in recent times, dedicated single speed frames have dropped out of favour and instead people now just convert geared bikes and use a chain tensioner. I wasn't content with this as I wanted that elusiveness of the single speed frame.

Keen to get out and cycling, I abandoned this idea as a short-term solution and then I uhhmmed and arred about getting it resprayed. Unfortunately Covid happened, my car was taken off the road and a series of other projects got in the way.

I reassembled the Inbred bike, threw a set of rigid carbon fibre forks and SRAM hydraulic brake and Magura rear hydraulic rim brake and did countless miles on it.

On-One Ti29er Inbred Lynskey

A couple of months ago I was explaining this dilemma to Dad and on a whim quickly searched eBay for the thing I have been searching for, lo and behold there it was, the bike that ticked all the boxes.

An 18 year old 29er Titanium Single Speed Large Frame in Scotland was for sale, it was more than I wanted to pay, but after wanting one for 3 years I decided I just had to have it and after a quick message on eBay I hit the Buy It Now button.

And then it arrived, light enough a baby could lift it, rigid enough it won't fold when my fat arse sits on it.

And there began the part search.

Parts List

Below are a list of parts that I scoured for the build. I already have a titanium road/gravel bike that is my pride and joy daily commuter. The idea for this bike is the occasional 30+ mile round trip to work, but more to hit the trails near me on the weekend.

I may have overspent on the frame, but I won't be going all out on the parts list (or so I hoped). Some items are gems, and others are run of the mill intentionally. The frame is complemented with all bolts being titanium.

• On-One Ti29er Inbred Lynskey Frame
• eXotic Rigid Carbon 29er Mountain Bike Fork, Post Mount PM Disc Brake, 49.0cm 29
• eXotic Full Carbon Ti Seatpost 27.2x250 with Titanium Bolts 0 Offset MTB/Road
• Halo T2 29er Rims (36H)
• Halo 40 x 288mm Rear Double Butted Rear Stainless Spokes
• Halo 20x288mm + 20x 286mm Front Double Button Front Stainless Spokes
• Halo 29er Rim Tape
• DMR Revolver Single Speed Rear Hub
• DMR Front Hub
• DMR - BRENDOG DeathGrip - Flange - Thick - MTB Grips
• DMR 10mm Chain Tugs for BMX Track Fixie Dirt Jump Single Speed Bike
• DMR V6 Plastic Pedals (PAIR) Mountain Bike BMX (9/16") Flat Platform (NEW) BLACK
• FSA Orbit UF 1-1/8 Threadless Sealed Bearing Headset , Black
• FSA Headset Carbon Spacer 1 1/8"
• KMC S1 BMX Wide Single Speed Chain For Internal Gear Hub 1/2" X 1/8" - 112 Links
• SRAM Truvativ Powerspline MTB Bottom Bracket - 118 x 68mm
• SRAM SX Eagle Crankset - Boost - Powerspline - 170mm - 32t
• SRAM Guide G2 R Hydraulic Disc Brakeset ( Front + Rear) + Clamp + Rotors
• Hope 2 x Floating Disc Rotor 203mm 6 Bolt Cycling Bike Ride Performance
• Maxxis Grifter 29 x 2.50 60 TPI Wire Single Compound tyre
• Salvaged Original On One Inbred Seat from Steel Bike
• Salvaged Original On One Handlebars/Stem from Steel Bike

Assembly

It would turn out, finding a rear single speed hub proved to be a little challenging so I just decided to build the wheels myself and that way I can have matching hubs/rims/spokes and build it exactly to specification.

With the parts arriving thick and fast, I began first by building the wheel.

£20 for this little wheel truing stand off of eBay I was ready to build the wheel. Probably took around 3 hours per wheel as I like to take my time and fully lubricate things.

I could place the forks in situe but not ready to cut the stem.

I've been running a set of these forks on my steel frame and they've held up to the tasks that I'm going to put them through. I dislike suspension as I'm relying on this for commuting in emergencies and it's annoying having the energy zapped out of you!

I could lightly place the other components on and get a feel for how it's going to hang together.

I'm building this a bit of a joke on myself really, so a set of 203mm Hope floating discs (pretty sure these are better spec than ones fitted to my motorbikes).

Start throwing the setup together now.

Stem cut and awaiting seat post.

Seat height adjusted and saddle fitted.

The saddle is well worn, but turns out people want like £100 for these used on eBay

SRAM Glide2 brakes arrived this morning so I've slapped these on.

Not silly expensive brake setup, I shouldn't be going fast enough to even need them. The steel frame was rear rim and that was fine.

And throw on some of the original On One Inbred parts for good measure.

Concluded

Which brings the project to a finish.

Only a 3 month project, which has siphoned money from my RD project, but the reality is the RD project IS the fun, whereas this is something where using it is where the enjoyment comes from.

I'd listen to @HOTSHOT-III as he's on the money here.

The mixture has been leaned out. That's detonation.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Dirtbikes/comments/wnl4gt/does_anyone_know_what_could_be_the_cause_of_this/

You'll need to check the fueling as something has gone wrong here.

@ZKJE101 Sorry bud, a move was necessitated and access to the lathe has gone

I can send you the CAD files and you can get someone to knock them up for you if that helps?

I use a chap called Quantum Solutions who seem to fit the bill nicely.

Hell, they're not structural I could just 3D print you up a set if it helps.

Hi Kieran,

Yes the waterpump is beneath the oil pump.

It is driven by nylon gears from the crankshaft so you'll need to remove the clutch cover to get access to it in its entirety.

Naturally I would inspect the simple things first but I suppose it could be that the gear is broken. I have not heard of this being a problem in all my years, but they are nylon so it's possible.

Cheers @HOTSHOT-III

That's more like it.

The problem is, the bottom end is labelled 3BN, but the cylinder will have something stamped on the side. Very early DTRs ran a different cylinder to the rest of the models (3BN) and the later ones 3MB00.

So just "ordered every part for this engine code" is misleading as the engine code is used to reference to distinct part numbers.

The fact it's now making 10-11 Bar is a good sign that you haven't accidentally ordered the wrong size piston, as I said before, the 3BN runs a bigger bore.

The stock Mikuni TM28S runs something called a "Power Jet". This alters the mixture at wide open throttle.

You might want to ensure that this is not blocked, this could be causing the hesitance at the higher RPMs/Load/Throttle.

@Davidae5 Cool, so what compression is the engine making now then?

What about my other question?

It shouldn't misfire anywhere.

The main points I am thinking is if you've not followed the steps I described above is that you're leaking coolant into the combustion chamber, which at high RPMs is causing problems.

Similarly, it could also be something simple like the coil, HT Lead, or even just the spark plug.

But I want to eliminate the questions I set out above before throwing a million and one ideas around.

Is that 3 Bar? As that is really low and I'd be very surprised if the engine ran at such low compression.

Hi there and welcome.

3 bar? How did the engine even run, are you sure you measured it correctly? That is way too low. You should be looking for something north of 10 bar on an engine after the break in period.

Something isn't right. The usual culprit is using non genuine head gasket. The white head gaskets don't work. Use genuine or Athena.

Did you put the head gasket the right way up. It has a little cut on the inlet side that should read UP. Head gaskets are also no reusable so make sure you use a fresh one.

Are you sure you're using the right sized piston and rings? What's your cylinder code? 3MB00 or is it 3BN as the latter has a larger bore.

I am led to believe that the WR125X wheels are Saxxes wheels, not Excel like they were on the DTX.

That said, I thought they do fit, but you need the DTX setup etc, so the front brake, forks and spacers.

It's not a direct swap for the DTR setup, but it is a very simple swap.

if you buy a tail tidy online and fit it it will probably look good and work well but equally it can be very rewarding to sit down and design/make something that improves your bike and is unique.

@HOTSHOT-III That's where I spend most of my time these days. I can't remember the last time I rode my Yamaha, but I'm working on it most weekend

Do you mean, do Acerbis make a wiring loom adaptor for a 20 year old + motorbike.

It's pretty much plug and play in the sense that there are three wires to connect.

+5v, ground and brake light.

It's pretty simple, it's a light.

I run this one on my bikes.

https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.sf/?channable=020990696400343334333934323997&ObjectPath=/Shops/10207048/Products/Acerbis-30-LED-CE&Locale=en_GB

Have you tried the search:
https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/20/yamaha-dt125re-x-stock-exhaust-pipe

6Nm rings a bell Haynes is invaluable.

Just remember, if you're doing the clutch, then steel plates must be balanced appropriately.

IIRC it's an M5 bolt, so no more than 12Nm and do them up slowly in a star pattern. It's only going into ally so it's easy to strip the threads.

Good that you've confirmed that it's not the powervalve, that's one thing we can rule out.