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I'd would just listen to hotshot-iii - https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/3551/do-pipercross-air-filters-really-flow-better-at-all
I haven't ran an airbox on my DTR for 10+ years and I just used the stock filter the time I had it. So I don't have any opinion on it.
It used to be a common mod to drill more holes into the top of the airbox in order to get more airflow into the box.
If it were me, I'd leave it alone though, as parts are getting harder to come by nowadays and this is drastic considering.
If you wanted a quick test, just remove the airbox boot and see how the bike performs with no filter. This won't cause any damage if you ride it somewhere with minimal dust and for a short duration (like not years). It's not uncommon for people to not bother with air filters.
The Snorkel isn't restrictive.
It you're removing the snorkel then you need to open up the air box, else you'll stall the airflow.
If you want to improve the situation, grab a DT230 or DT200WR snorkel.
These were almost a nightmare to source 16 years ago, I can't imagine trying to source one now. My bike was stolen in 2010 and they smashed my headlight, the only one I could find at the time at one of the lugs snapped off.
Check the left hand crankseal for air leak as well.
I will have to check the Mikuni carb for how the air screw works, does it bleed air or allow fuel through.
Either way, the choke is going to increase the fuel and air via the independent fueling circuit.
I am led to believe the circuitry for this should be rudimentary.
If I recall correctly, it runs on it's own circuit, from the battery to the fuse holder and through a relay. The relay js actuated via the button on the controls.
I'll have to grab my Haynes and have a proper look for you when I get a moment, unless there are already circuit diagrams available here.
Well this last month a disgusting amount of money was dropped on parts for this engine.
573M06800)
These Wiseco pistons replace the stock Athena pistons due to the 115mm long rods I'm running and the +4mm stroked crank shaft. The head still needs to be machined to accommodate the longer stroke and the wrist pin on these pistons is different to accommodate the longer rod.
This idle gear is lovely, totally unnecessary but was only £60 but seemingly not available to purchase anywhere I looked.
The Magura wasn't cheap, but it's going to be necessary when running all 6 TZ750 clutch springs just to keep the power from slipping the clutch.
(the other two springs are in the post I had to source elsewhere).
Now that I have the basket, I can finally assemble the clutch basket with my straight cut primary gears.
Basket is beautifully made, claimed to be the best on the market and I can see why. It was missing the Belleville washer that sits between the basket and the fastener plate, I bought a genuine basket to chop up and salvage but it wasn't on that basket (apparently they're fitted to 1986 models and later). I managed to find a company that sell them so ordered from them and fitted. Wasn't cheap but I'm glad it's in.
I did replace the steel bolts with some lighter titanium ones (hopefully they withstand the abuse the basket is going to take!)
About 50% of the weight, but hopefully not at the expense of strength!
The washer is installed with the raised edge facing you. The fastener plate will clamp down onto this edge.
Engine is coming together nicely now though.
Well sounds like a fantastic purchase.
I thought I recall the 3SH models being quite sought after and sounds like a good buy for the money. Sadly Imgur is blocked in the UK so I can't see the images right now, I'll have to have a nosey on a VPN.
Yeah, there is an okay aftermarket scene for tuning, anything that'll fit the DTR engine will fit the TDR engine. It's the TZR 125 (2RK???) models that had different engine setups, but the TZR Belgarda shared the same platform as the DTR.
No, the 4DL would have a straight inlet. These don't fit the DTR as thr carb then fouls the shock absorber.
Reposting images as Imgur is no long viable for the UK.
Still got this though, haven't done anything to it for a very long time.
Have you earthed the green/black wire?
Sounds like a restriction.
Where is this PWK from? Is it a good quality carb?
Although not the source of your problem here, as the demand/load on the engine increases, the reliability of the fueling also becomes more important. What might be fine in lower gears, presents problems further afield.
Removing the Snorkel will adversely affect the performance. Removing the snorkel will result in turbulence adversely affecting performance.
So put the snorkel back in.
