@Calum said in Forum Outage:

Forum upgraded to the latest version and servers patched

Not all hero’s wear capes.

Bonjour forum! I’m stevie, I’m 20 years old and I have Asperger’s Syndrome (ASD). I have never been part of a forum before, I’d always thought they where for nerds Now here I am eating my words after lurking and winding up here so many times from numerous google searches, as if it wasn’t for this forum I wouldn’t know or have anywhere near any of the information I know now or needed to know! (a special mention to darty and ninja).
Are there any rules I need to know or guidelines to using the forum/site?

A thrilling read of abbreviations and part codes immortalised forever within the DT125R forum. Complete with a brief compliation of backwards compatible/direct bolt on parts.*

So, my first post (1:52am) this is going to be a personal record and almost blog following me and my journey starts singing don’t stop believin’ with my DTR *this is still only my second post on the forum and I’m using an iPhone so when I work out how to upload photos, I’ll post in chronological order photos from the first time I ever saw the bike online, met it, bought it and everything else in between. It’s worth noting, due to how special this bike is to me I won’t ever part ways with it, so this could be a long one guys! Hopefully we can meet a few people on the way that enjoy, inspire or maybe learn from this journey. I hope for the best.
So to begin with, I have never owned or even properly ridden a two stroke above a chainsaw or 50cc having only ridden four strokes and my own custom built race spec 150cc lexmoto adrenaline.
For that reason owning a DTR is also a massive learning curve in terms of riding, maintenance and even learning the mechanical side of things as well as how two strokes tick.
Secondly, owning this bike is a huge personal achievement for me since I started riding that was the one that I wanted, to a point I had written on my bucket list. Which is why I think this post wether it be for my own use as a timeline might also turn out to be pretty special. See for me, DTR’s are pretty special they’re a name that’s known and synonymous with memories from family members of when they where my age of how they used to steal them, rag them on fields and all the old pub talk deristriction and go faster tricks everyone used to chat about back in the day. Which of course is also follow by said friend/family member saying how “rapid” the DT is whilst simultaneously making this face that’s only ever made when they reminisce what it was like sitting on one for the first time and feeling what a powerband does to a 17 year old teen in the 90’s. DTR’s are a little slice of nostalgia for me of a time when I was a wee wee nipper and all the cars my family had where old transits, nova’s and shit mondeo’s .
Now the reason this bike is so special to me is not only is it something I said to myself I’ll do before I die but also because, I went that extra distance to find a DTR manufactured in ‘98, the year of my birth (it’s actually only 4 months older then me believe it or not). The months and months of continuous searching that led to finally find this bike is something of a journey in itself, especially as I refused to settle for anything less then original and in 5 condition, not asking for much . I would also like to add as I’m only 20, my DTR is singularly the biggest purchase I’ve ever made in my life to date and as anyone that’s ever grown up knows there’s a lot of hard work, determination, perseverance and life’s BS thrown at you on the way to get there. It’s surreal owning it but looking at it is a constant reminder to work hard and that I can achieve whatever I want to. Also given the fact it’s a French import I will be the first named keeper on all its paper work (something that I won’t ever let change). Hopefully you can understand now why this bike is pretty special and significant to me. Current ideas are to build a 90’s MX and 90’s YZ inspired bike and tuning the bike as much as I can whilst keeping its originality and authenticity to the era.
This means using as many OEM parts as possible or parts that would’ve been available back in the day (however a 170 kit, boring out and porting a cylinder or even hunting whatever I need to make it 200cc also seems an option). I’d read here about 32mm TZR dellorto carbs and bits and pieces from wr200’s/DT200’s and DT230 bolt straight on and can give a good boost.
Also because we, England, have such a strong heritage in MX there’s tonns of upgrades available from british manufacturers so I plan to use as many british made parts too, just as a nice little bit patriotism.

Just an idea because I know mine are non existent and I’m pretty sure I saw a post it somewhere, has anyone ever thought of using these or know any other alternatives whilst I’m here? (YZ125 89-92 Roller Set)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223493276708

@NINJA that goes without saying, also hello it’s lovely to speak to you after reading so many years worth of posts no doubt I’ll be picking your brain and getting to know you, ps I absolutely love your builds, pretty sure before I even bought a DT I’d saved a photo from one of your bikes dude. Considering how DTR’s are becoming scarce and almost vintage it’s really surprising to see such a strong community and so many owners all doing different things

@Calum my condolences and thoughts with you, I hope you’re okay dude. I was stuck at university when everything kicked off. Way before lockdown happened as soon as the university had a confirmed case they shut up shop and then in the space of two days over 1000 empty where they lived and returned home. It was insane to see a place soo lively become so desolate so quick.
I’ve heard so much corona this and that whatever that to some extent I’ve almost switched off to it, the empty streets and mad shopping makes precautions makes it feel like the backstory to a video game. I’m lucky as to where I live as there’s lots of fields, old hidden public footpaths, by ways and country roads that can go for miles and lots of other little places you can venture if you know the area very well. , luckily most of which you can also take a motorbike and because of how good and quiet the community it is no one ever complains as long as they know you

Okay so I’ve been having major issues embedding photos from my Flickr, I’ve tried everything and have nearly give up. The only thing that’ll work is directly uploading them my laptop which is a major pain in the ass when all the photos are on my phone, I also don’t think it masks any geotag data either.

Anyway, my plans initially where to run a WR200 front end. It seemed like a good idea. It would give me nice new shiny USD forks not to mention fitting the ignition barrel or original clocks wouldn’t be such a hassle as I could just use the WR200 speedo drive. There’s also the added backwards compatibility factor of being able to still use the stock DT wheel later on if I wanted for when I return her to stock form or if I wanted to return her to stock or just experiment with different setups. Perfect because as much as I love my knobbly’s tyres my favourite looking and riding setup to date is still 21-18 with a decent set of road tyres. Agile, fast and perfect for hauling ass on the road and light trails, just as Yamaha intended. Definitely how I’d return her in the future.

So yeah using the WR200 front end just made sense really, I wasn’t going to use the DT front wheel with the YZ rear so had already been looking at replacement options. The DT front wouldn’t do as I don’t want to ruin them and the chrome clashes with the silver rim on the rear. So upgrades in terms of weight saving would be a bonus too. However.... no forks could be found for less then £180. They where all in foreign country’s and that price was before postage or import tax’s/customs nor did it also include the matching front calliper I might need or the front wheel.
I can’t warrant the cost, a set of forks and everything else would eventually cost me £350+.

This leads me to issue I’m starting to face And would to talk about, one that I’m sure many of us have faced. Cost, Condition and Availability. See I’m not the most patient of person and very rarely are we blessed enough to have all three so sometimes sacrifices must be made.

However it’s not all sacrifices though...
I got chatting to a geezer about some YZ parts and had stroke of when luck when I told about my project and he said had an entire front end from a 2002 YZ 125.

He was a nice bloke and gave me a very very reasonable offer on the lot. I also have a set of black hi rise renthal fatbars and orange anodised conversion clamps that where left over from my last bike I built, I’d been meaning to sell them for ages and never got around to it and now it seems I’m glad I didn’t, they might just come in handy.
I really had planned to keep everything period correct, however like I mentioned above the issue is you could spend years searching for any part you need or better still sacrifice your monthly wage to afford it and that’s always something in the bike of my mind.
With that being said the fact they’re a few years older then I’d like isn’t such a bad thing. Here’s why, getting the whole front end together saves me a whole load of time. Being from an ‘02 it means there’s a ton of aftermarket support for literally everything (you won’t be catching me paying £70 for a used fork guard anytime soon). A little birdy reckons the ‘92 Kayaba’s where some the worst ever produced and last but not least, stopping power.
Until I had the opportunity to buy the ‘02 front end I never really gave how I planned to stop much of a thought, then I thought about it and remembered the time me and a friend where out racing each other. Come around the bend towards the T Junction with no traffic our end, lights are green we’re racing onward and then the lights change. My friend managed make it to stop luckily. Unfortunately I didn’t, the rear locked up completely and the front end just dived and did nothing, sending me hurtling towards oncoming traffic nearly getting t-boned by a Transit. My mate said he though I was almost about to die. He still had time to say how long the skid was though

@Calum thank you dude! I owe so much of what I know to this forum and the people that have a passion for these old bikes! What’s mad is how now I’m actually in a position to help some people now. I once stopped my mate destroying his top end once because I remembered something about the stroke difference on the 3mb/3bn crank and cylinder. That was fun. I’ve caught numerous people out that have made out like they where Rossi’s personal bike mechanic and corrected so many people on all the yam/DT/tzr Facebook groups and revealed so called “secrets” when someone won’t reveal what they’ve done or how they did it because they want to be better then other people. Pathetic petty behaviour. Helpful at times and some good people I must admit but different atmosphere. You don’t get the sense of appreciation for the bikes and the history. Anyway enough with Facebook dick measuring contests....
Whilst all of my family are mechanics, I however am not. Not to mention they’re messy with bad work ethic. Everything I do I’m learning as I go or the things I did with my old bike. I bought a £25 tool kit wrap from Halfords purely out of chance because it was the only one that had 17mm included with it and because when I started university some little shit robbed my 17mm socket and extension I’d left right next to my bike inside the bike shed (which confused the fuck out of me because no one else’s bike even used a 17mm, crackhead antics) As much as coincidence is it was that bought it, it also happens to carry every single tool I could possibly need for my bike and the rest. Mini volt tester, box cutter, brass wire brush, repair kits, ratchets for every screw and Allen key fitment you could need with space to chuck a couple of your own tools. Conveniently neatly zipped away in something about 3/4 the size of your average laptop. Perfect for in the back pack or long risky ride, for anyone who might read this I highly recommend. Having the proper correct fitment for the various sized screws etc had saved me so many bolts that I admit I probably would’ve rounded.
Current things I’m trying to figure out with project are best options for forks, I haven’t bought the yz front wheel so the set up for the front end could be whatever however I’d try to make it as easily compatible with stock DT rims and WR 17” sumo wheels. Not a lot to ask for I know... But now that I think about it, I’m planning on keeping it forever, why not try make it as backwards compatible and functional as possible.
I’m also deciding on what swingarm, I have an offer from a guy on eBay that still stands for a really good condition wr200 deltabox for only £65 posted. He’s convinced it’s for a YZ bless him. He said he bought it for a DT got told it needed work to fit it and ended up selling the bike . If only he’d used google and found this forum . I’d like it, especially at that price and because it’s something of a little bit later year then most but finding rear brake components has been hard.
I also have an offer for 91 YZ swingarm (I prefer the design slightly) noticed that 1991 YZ swingarm also shares the same 3SP stamp as the WR Deltabox which is how I think our friend from earlier got confused. I just made the assumption that it’s because they where different but shared something in common like shock linkage so they’d bolt on to DtR without many problems. Another upside to buying a pre 93 YZ swingarm is theres an array of aftermarket parts still and I found original parts no where near as hard as the WR. From what I’ve seen The YZ range developed massively from 87-94 and yet somehow didn’t. Lots of bits and pieces bolt on to other bikes relatively easily.
Also how to attach images?

Christ, I never realised a year had gone past. Looking back at my old posts makes me cringe however it’s a bloody good reminder of how much I’ve learned.
Much to my surprise the DT’s still running strong and on the exact same piston etc as the day I got her. I even completed the Essex air ambulance run on it, 140+ miles there and back for charity. Imagine a group ride of around 600-700 bikers and not only the only 125 but also the only 125 two stroke. Oh and to make things that extra bit better the entire journey was on knobbly’s No f@&ks given, I was going to university shortly after and said if it goes bang it goes bang, May as well send it.
Ended up getting a telling off from pc plod on two wheels as I might’ve accidentally popped the front end up right in front of him not noticing he was there, my uncle right behind me on his Fzr600 was pissing himself.
During the ride there was one lovely chap on his very original pristine 2RK TZR who came up to me however I on the return journey I noticed him turn off very early and head home. I guess he didn’t have he didn’t want to ‘Send It’ or was worried it’d look less then showroom condition for one day
The response I got from all the other riders with me was amazing though there where so many smiles, so many people recognised the old DT and I think where shocked that I was doing that run on the bike. A good few people pulled up beside me whilst I was riding just to have a look or give a thumbs up. I had a 94 FZR 400 (one of my all time favourite bikes) spot me which led to both us exchanging some braps and having a little play. Hands down one of the best riding experiences I’ve had.
As to how she’s still running I don’t actually know, I’ve kept on top of maintenance (not that she’s really needed anything) but she’s ripped through woodlands and trails near enough everytime she’s ridden, races around the local Mx track alongside KTM’s and still been used for the leisurely pop to the shops. To think I used to believe two strokes are unreliable.

@Challenger As a Videographer and editor I cannot thank you enough for uploading a video to YouTube in 1080p @ 60fps and actually making a sick little edit. Good camera, audio and riding is everything needed to do the bike justice. I hadn’t actually realised until now that you where a member but I’d watched loads of your videos

Also what do you do to bring those callipers up nice like that?

@Darty said in Portmap for a 3mb barrel?:

@Arild I’m very experienced with Solidworks, been using it for 4 years now, I could take a look at the model if you like? I’d be very interested in the project.

Darty, meet my yg I told you about

@Arild said in 3BN Cylinder:

Hey mate, i got a 1988 bike and i have the 3bn barrel on it, if u wanna swap the 4fu for the 3bn id be down mate

Cheeky

@Darty bro you have no idea how long it’s taking to stretch all the powerbands so they ping proper ard

@Challenger As a Videographer and editor I cannot thank you enough for uploading a video to YouTube in 1080p @ 60fps and actually making a sick little edit. Good camera, audio and riding is everything needed to do the bike justice. I hadn’t actually realised until now that you where a member but I’d watched loads of your videos

Also what do you do to bring those callipers up nice like that?

Poor Sentence Structure
@Calum it’ll do for now, I will improve for future reference
Here’s a couple points to consider though
•Having ASD my concentration is wank and struggling with the pen to paper process is one of the defects of it.
•Due to the above, it takes me a much longer amount of of time to write my posts so apologies for those who find themselves.
•I’m actually really good at English it’s just when it’s late at night and I’ve spent way to long writing a blog post (which is usually huge because I suck at updating it regularly) I don’t think about reviewing, I’m usually scrambling because my phones about to die
•You are right though the structure of that is horrible to read. If you had dyslexia you’d probably just say nope. With that being said I have so many photos it’s unreal that’d solve this I just haven’t got around to cracking how to upload from my phone and not have to worry about hidden trackers in the photos from where some of the photos etc would’ve been taken on iPhone.

Actual Problem that’s now no longer a problem
Either way problems fixed, turns out the problem was just the plastic was sat on the wrong angle of the diamond the entire time. Amazing how something that simple stumped so many people.
A bit of a bastard but at least I’ve had an education on YPVS, powervalves and the importance of them to two strokes. It’s also taught my why Yamahas cylindrical rotating valve system is such a good, simple and robust design. Interesting stuff. I’d like to learn how the guillotine valve works like on my RM80

I had consulted Haynes manual quite a few times and no luck. It’s not the first time Haynes hasn’t give me the answers, I had the same problem when replacing my fork seals.
I’m just being picky though. With YouTube and a Haynes manual it’s really not that difficult to do and do good job of it.

YPVS STUFF
With the YPVS now working properly again, I am well and truly loving life and in love with my bike again. Torque. Lots and lots of torque. Long gone are the days of abysmal nothingness before 6-7k. I forgot how nice it was to comfortably cruise somewhere without having to hammer it and I forgot just how essential that little bit of low down power is to a DT to be able to pull through the gears. Especially with knobbly’s and a 19” rear.
Pinning the valve was fun. I’ve enjoyed that snap of power like on a 85cc MX bike and really helped me getting comfortable with getting the front wheel above the ground.However as many of you have said before me and will learn after me, in no way does it improve the bike or make it faster. Instead it’s just filled me with appreciation for it being there and for that reason alone I recommend you if you’re reading this just once disconnect your YPVS and feel the difference it makes. Even if you don’t like it you’ll still find there’s something really fun about riding a two stroke with that cliche two stroke feel, even if it does hinder performance.

@Calum said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):

@Stevie-Wonder definitely blog about the rm would ne interesting to read.

Pretty sure I would have said YPVS to be your problem and pinning it is usually a way to figure that out.

It shouldn't be too hard to fix the YPVS setup.

That idle is a little low. Should idle around the 2k mark. Having such a low idle will affect low speed performance as the idle controls up to 1/8 of throttle. So you will want to make sure it's correct.

I’m pretty sure you told me that a while ago and I’d just end up trying / checking every single thing besides that.
Had a bit of a ta-dah moment last night and think I’ve solved my own problem, I was messing around with my P top end looking at valve positioning and I think either me or the mechanic I was with made the mistake of putting the plastic onto diamond at the wrong angle which would explain why my adjustments on the tensioners and everything else is so off.

it shouldn’t be/isn’t complicated at all especially after looking at suzuki and Kawasaki’s powervalve systems.

I’ve had a few people tell me that it idles really low however it’s been like that for as long as I’ve owned the bike / it came from unit 23 anytime I’ve bumped the idle up a little bit she doesn’t like it, I just thought all older DT’s where like it. Never hurt the bike or felt a negative effect from it so I’d just left it

So for a while when I came bike from uni I’d had what seems to be a common problem of my bike randomly deciding to stop being able to rev out past 8k for no reason what so ever
It’d stumped many people, caused me to think my engine was on the way out and all sorts of things.
I decided to get the exhaust off align the valve and pin it, problem solved it’s revs out freely. It also sounds amazing too,I really enjoy riding my bike pinned in the right scenario however the only issue I’ve found is that past the 8.5-9k you get the worst throttle chop I’ve ever experienced. The throttle is still very responsive but under load at high rpm’s it’s like it revs backs off automatically and then will come back on whilst maintaining throttle position, this is the case even when just slowly rolling on the throttle with the RPM’s. I have wondered if the fact I’ve got a YZ 250 1/4 throttle and I’m still using the stock throttle cable which doesn’t fit 100% with the throttle because I still want to run the oil pump. *** on that note what’s a really good 1/4 throttle or fix that’d solve that *** I’ve also noticed whenever I’ve had smaller sprockets on and pulled harder in low gears that the throttle chop effects often worse unless I’m clutching in and getting the front end up. So in essence whilst pinning the valve has solved a problem it’s just kinda created a couple more for me but I’ll touch more on that later.
Whilst it’s rideable and still fun I could only imagine now what this would be like without this issue unless it’s just a drawback of pinning a DT wide open?
I wish there was a way the get all the benefits of the low down torque The DT is capable of producing and still feel that sudden sharp hit of power after 7k.
I’ve spent hours now fiddling with the YPVS, I even thought the valve magically flipped 180 degrees by itself. Here’s the thing though with my exhaust off and the powervalve aligned flush the black plastic cable carrier is as far left from the aligning hole it can go, practically touching the 5mm Allen bolt that holds the casing. This means that the cleaning cycle would go left right but when valve would be aligned with the aligning hole it’s mean it’s closed which in my opinion doesn’t make any sense? The only way I can get it to align like that is by tightening the right cable as far as I can without it whilst loosening of the left as much as possible If memory serves me right this is meant to be the other way way around where the hole being aligned means your valves indicates as being flush
I’d found photos of how it was originally set up and returned it that way so it was textbook perfect and tested it that’s when I had the same issue of it not revving past 8k.

I’m just really stumped as to what’s caused this to happen or is causing this, I’ve spent hours fiddling trying to get it right only to find my results stump me further, typical.
Time for the big boys

Also a sidenote:
I’d really like to get YPVS running again as I found out a while ago the switch to disconnect it is located just by the serve motor and within reach through your left radiator fairing so whenever I want to disconnect it for some fun with it pinned at a moment’s notice I can but still enjoy everything about the ypvs that makes it so good and what makes the DT pull very quick in those lower rpms. It’s also helpful it’s much quieter

**ive cut this and edited it from my build post just as the topics more relevant here

Hello guys how is everyone! I hope everyone’s been keeping well

I’d been meaning to update this for a while but I’m saving it, hopefully there might be a big load of progress made however for now I’ve just been enjoying the bike and the weather

So for a while when I came bike from uni I’d had what seems to be a common problem of my bike randomly deciding to stop being able to rev out past 8k for no reason what so ever
It’d stumped many people, caused me to think my engine was on the way out and all sorts of things.
I decided to get the exhaust off align the valve and pin it, problem solved it’s revs out freely. I really enjoy riding my bike pinned in the right scenario however the only issue I’ve found is that past the 8.5-9k you get the worst throttle chop I’ve ever experienced. The throttle is still very responsive but under load at high rpm’s it’s like it revs backs off automatically and then will come back on whilst maintaining throttle position, this is the case even when just slowly rolling on the throttle with the RPM’s. I have wondered if the fact I’ve got a YZ 250 1/4 throttle and I’m still using the stock throttle cable which doesn’t fit 100% with the throttle because I still want to run the oil pump. *** on that note what’s a really good 1/4 throttle that’d solve that *** I’ve also noticed whenever I’ve had smaller sprockets on and pulled harder in low gears that the throttle chop effects often worse. So whilst pinning the valve has solved a problem it’s just kinda created a couple more for me but I’ll touch more on that later.
Whilst it’s certainly very choppy at times it’s still very very fun for popping the clutch. Another thing yes she wheelies. I’ve checked my piston and rings and whilst they’re worn and the dome of the piston represents the texture of sandpaper it’s really nothing horrendous. She still makes power, starts first kick and idles just above 1.1-1.2k. All the boys with WR’s still try giving it the pub talk about two strokes which just adds to the satisfaction of owning a two stroke that’s already done 10’000 miles in a year and is still going strong
I could only imagine now what this would be like without this issue unless it’s just a drawback of pinning a DT wide open?
I wish there was a way the get all the benefits of the low down torque The DT is capable of producing and still feel that sudden sharp hit of power after 7k. It’s definitely enlightened me more about why you guys like your custom ignitions so much and why the YPVS is such a good system. Here’s why...
(Whilst on my off-road trail riding shenanigans I come across a rather sharp 45-50 degree incline, 10-15 feet high and quite long, your run up is a straight and a sharp left the bumpy path that’s the same width as your bike and that’s been cut out through a thick hedge of nettles Brambles and everything else you don’t want to fall into. 110% full send it. Now this is the moment I understood how much torque the DT is capable of. I’d took a couple “bitch runs” as they’re called if you bmx or skate and soon realised as my powervalve pinned I’ve not got enough room to rip through the straight and make a hard left as not only is there not a lot of space to turn you’re also automatically on the incline so there’s not enough room to carry moment through and hold it wide open in powerband and you can just clutch in and rip it because it’s to tight, you’d wash out. Being so steep you couldn’t just sit straight up launch up it either or you’d just bog. Still I like the challenge, I said fuck it flipped the valve so it was the opposite of pinned and if she went. Pulled straight up like it was easy without even hitting the 8k Rev limit it’d have with powervalve set like that. I don’t know many other two strokes capable of that. ) This brings me to another thing... having experienced and messed about with the YPVS system a lot recently are there any of you that think it doesn’t work to it’s fullest potential? I’m just curious if there’s someone who understand two strokes better then I do as there’s maybe a reason it doesn’t completely open and close.
.

This now brings me to my final thing that could make all of the above irrelevant. As mentioned I’ve spent hours now fiddling with the YPVS, I even thought the valve magically flipped 180 degrees by itself. Here’s the thing though with my exhaust off and the powervalve aligned flush the black plastic cable carrier is as far left from the aligning hole it can go, practically touching the 5mm Allen bolt that holds the casing. This means that the cleaning cycle would go left right but when valve would be aligned with the aligning hole it’s mean it’s closed which in my opinion doesn’t make any sense? The only way I can get it to align like that is by tightening the right cable as far as I can without it whilst loosening of the left as much as possible If memory serves me right this is meant to be the other way way around where the hole being aligned means your valves indicates as being flush
I’d found photos of how it was originally set up and it was completely the opposite from how I’d have to set it up now for it to be textbook “correct” and that’s what gave me the issue of it not revving past 8k.

I’m just really stumped as to what’s caused this to happen or is causing this

I’d really like to get YPVS running again as I’ve tucked the switch for it just behind my tank so whenever I want to disconnect it for some fun with it pinned at a moment’s notice I can but still enjoy everything about the ypvs that makes it so good and what makes the DT pull very quick in those lower rpms. It’s also helpful it’s much quieter

Once again thanks in advance and sorry for the massive essays hope you enjoy. I hope everyone has been in good health and been able to take their bikes out at least a couple times whilst the weathers been nice and if you haven’t then I hope you’ve made progress with any projects you’re working on. Hopefully they’ll be some exciting stuff here soon...
I recently picked up a 1997 Suzuki RM80 that I’ve been having some fun restoring and rebuilding I could make a thread on if anyone’s interested

@Calum said in Forum Outage:

Forum upgraded to the latest version and servers patched

Not all hero’s wear capes.

Now this is something I can help you with. First thing you need to ask yourself how often you use the bike off road and what aspect of performance are you willing to trade off as believe me you’ll have a hard time finding an off road tyre that grips in loose mud, corners like Rossi on the road and lasts longer the mandingo not to mention without sacrificing rolling resistance.
There’s a lot of really good options out there, it really just about the tool for the job.