Posts made by Stevie Wonder

@SpookDog said in Progressive fork springs?:

Any known makes for the Dtr? I can’t find anything...

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Okay wicked, so we can rule out the rubber boot to the air box not being airtight as not being an issue.

Also the jetting in the carb is the exact same as it’s always been since I’ve had it so jetting shouldn’t be an issue, the only thing that could’ve changed slightly is the air screw.

I’ll keep an ear out for detonation as that’ll give an indicator to wether it’s the engine running lean being the problem or it just being a cooling problem.

@Calum said in 200cc crankcase conversion:

@Stevie-Wonder Pretty sure he documented it all on this website...

Ye I know @Calum I’ve re-reading it but all the photos are now gone

@Challenger I’ve got a v force blaster 200 Reed cage that should help right ?

And thanks @scrimsmustang! If I’d been known it was simple earlier I think I’d have already done it

Excusing the powervalve blade itself do you need the WR’s Servo motor, pulleys and housing etc

And I presume you need either a 200cdi or a Zeely/Ignitech programmable ignition too

@SpookDog
No worries man, I wish it was that, it’d be an easy fix then. But the fact the issue solved itself and ran perfect for a good month after I thought it was that rules out LH crank seal being the problem entirely

It’s worth noting I tried the old trick of running the bike with the choke on to richen things thinking this might cause stop the heat building and possibly make a difference to how the bike was running.
Unfortunately though this made no difference, temp still carried on soaring and still reluctant to go through the revs

The only place there could be an air leak is where the rubber boot joins the air box… this would then cause a lean running engine.
This leaves me some questions though…
I’m led to believe where the air boot meets the air box doesn’t have to be an air tight unit, is this right?

Being a water cooled engine doesn’t this mean as long as there’s sufficient coolant, your radiator and water pump hoses etc are all in good working then even if you had an engine that was run very very lean the heat would be managed?

Or would it be more a case that the cooling system isn’t up to the job to handle those conditions?

As it stands to sort this I have to

• Check there’s enough coolant (I can’t imagine having lost enough to make a difference however the carb warmer pipes are still prone to odd drip or two even when I plugged them so this could have built up over time, always worth checking).
• Check water pump is working
• take zorst off and fit new carb warmer coolant line (as one has a pin prick hole from being nipped by the hose clamp)

@SpookDog said in Trying to fix an issue:

@Stevie-Wonder

The crank seal failing wouldn’t affect bore pressure. That’s purely between the piston&rings and the head. It would totally fuck with your mixture & running though. It’s such a cheap and easy fix it’d be silly to ignore it. I seem to remember you saying the revs settled down when you sprayed it before?...

Nah, I sprayed a couple different flammable substances and it made no difference.

And ahh okay

@SpookDog said in Trying to fix an issue:

@Stevie-Wonder

Did you ever fix the leaky crank seal on the flywheel side, bud? Something still ain’t right if you’re getting that hot. I used to have temp troubles till I sorted out my jetting. Even my bike has been running cool during the worst of the heatwaves. While there is water in the radiator anyways

I’d be looking for any air leaks. Spray on either wd40 or (I use) solvent brake/clutch/carb cleaner. The revs will lower/settle down if it temporarily blocks an air leak...

Nope, turned out there was no crank seal. The bike held and made good compression when I did a compression check.

To back this up when I crashed my bike the issue magically resolved itself and the bike suddenly ran beautifully, as good if not better then the day I got it.

Since the first or second time I took my carb off to inspect the float valve when fuel was pissing out the overflow

I just took the bike out and I’m certain the powervalve is operating as should be and sat in the right place.

I do however have a sneaky feeling the air boot isn’t properly sealed, causing an air leak.

I’ve also found a little pin prick hole in the carb warmer hose that sends coolant into the carb.

I took the bike out for a little ride, I say little because I got less then ten minutes ago and the temp gauge was already 3/4 across the dash and climbing.

There where a couple times where the bike just shot off like a rocket whilst the valve was pinned but other then that It’d get to about 6-8k (at a guess because remember I don’t have working clocks) then struggle to go any further.

@SpookDog said in Trying to fix an issue:

@Stevie-Wonder

The power valve is open at default any was. It’s only when you start the bike that it ‘closes’...
You could pull the plug before starting the engine...

You do have the power valve set at open/flush when the engine is off don’t you?...

Yep, admittedly I haven’t checked but I doubt it’s just magically jumped out of place since I last set it

@HOTSHOT-III
Good idea that bud, I think I used a twig once when I was riding in a Forrest

Not sure if you knew this though but one of the ignition cycles when you turn on/off the bike leave the PV in the open position instead of closed, once it’s like this all you’ve got to do is unplug the servo via the 4-pin plug by your radiator and you're set

As for the HT lead, nah I haven’t. I have been looking for an excuse to buy a nice new red “race” ngk one for a while though….

link text

What’s on there is an old NGK one or OEM original to the bike

Good news!

No fuel leaks, bike feels a bit more powerful too however I fear that she still won’t Rev out and through band.

I rode the bike last night after letting it warm up whilst I worked on the fazer and she revved out further then before
but felt hesitant. Not the sort of little hesitation an oil injected two stroke has when going through the band the first or second time either.

Last time I had this problem the powervalve was the issue (plastic pulley was on the incorrect angle of the diamond, causing the pulley to look like it’s correct whilst making your valve offset and out of alignment with your exhaust port…)

To deal with this I’m bring a 5mm Allen key so I can loosen the bolts and spin the pulley cover to check the valve is fully rotating. I’ll also disconnect the powervalve and set it as ”pinned” so we no if the problem ensues it rules anything powervalve related.

So on this grim cloudy yet still warm Sunday, I’m gonna get Stella the DT out and brush off the cobwebs.

Given the air box etc has been cleaned with new filter and mesh it’s fair to say we can rule anything to do with that being a problem.

The carbs just been sorted out, idle screw is now responsive again and an air screw that moves freely.
could the air screw being in the wrong position cause this?

Whilst the carb was out I took the Liberty of removing the Reed cage to inspect the reeds etc, they’re all spotless and OEM. I couldn’t see anything wrong with them.

My pipes getting a little bit rusty at the neck but still has no holes in it so I can rule that out

So I guess all that leaves us with is electrics? Which funnily enough all work

Fingers crossed that when I take her out she’s a happy girl and I get to enjoy the feeling of going through powerband.
Let’s just say it’s been a while since I last had my fix.

I’ve got a copper gasket in my room being used as an ornament. Pay for the postage and buy yourself the magic spray and it’s yours

£70 for new jap valve, air screw to free’d up and the pilot jet drilled out with a replacement jet. Definitely not to shabby.

@markus-w i know mate, I know.
I could’ve swapped it out after inspecting it just to rule it out the question but I didn’t. It’s a lesson learnt.
Not feeling to hard about it though as either way I’d have had to give someone my carb to drill the pilot jet out

Also the pair of you are angels. I’ll be buying one of those immediately to avoid this happening again

It sounds like a fallout 3 skill magazine and guess what?
It basically is! +10 to wrench monkey ability haha.

I might be late to the party here but whilst working I come across a bunch of magazine’s from a mag named “Classic Motorcycle Mechanics”.

I was pleasantly surprised to find they’re actually incredibly informative cover a wide range of bikes, vintage two strokes especially and how best to restore and spanner on them. The old mags I had where from 2016 but still covered RD400’s, VFR’s, RD125’s and shared a lot of useful info.

Good news too they’re still being published, £15 for a quarterly subscription.

Is there anyone here who could or knows someone that’d one day bore it may cases to accept WR200 3xp top end and crank? And what they’d charge for it?

It’s been something I’ve been curious about ever since seeing @Louis-DT-WR build his engine

@HOTSHOT-III said in Outage:

@Calum Thanks for keeping the forum going!

+1
Thanks as always man, it’s never not appreciated

@HOTSHOT-III said in Gel Batteries?...:

@SpookDog The stock charging system is well up to looking after the battery as long as it's working properly (i.e delivering around 13-15 volts at 3000+ rpm).

One of the things I love about the DTR is it has AC lighting so the head/tail lights don't take power from the battery (the stator has a separate charging coil, lighting coil and source coil for the CDI) so you can run a 100/80W headlamp bulb in the stock light unit without flattening the battery.

I went out laning at night with a bunch of KTM guys last year and they commented on how bright my headlight was

Useful tip that, gonna have to use that when I put the standard DTR light back on. 3ET one looks great but is about as good as chocolate tea pot

The message I got from Jim prior to my carb being posted back to me

“Morning mate,
I got your carb sorted 1st job today
Your fuel leaking was the float valve quite worn so fitted a new Japanese one for you.
I managed to get the air screw out ok, first one this year they're usually well seized.
Had to drill the pilot jet out though, I fitted a decent used one in there now.
Your power jet was partially blocked, tiny black deposits came out of there so maybe from a rotted bit of hose at some point in its history,
And your emulsion tube was a bit grubby so cleaned that for you, I took a picture of that”

My reply:
“ Wicked mate beyond happy, I’ve not had a spare jet to knock out the emulsion tube so even in the past when it’s been ultra sonic cleaned that’s remained in situ.

The air screw I had suspicions that you’d be okay with, I’d messed about with it before but since my bikes been jetted perfect since the day I’ve got it I’ve had no reason to play with it. Anytime I’d loosened it off it’d come out it was just a bit of a tosser.

As for the float valve, do mean the little bit with the rubber tip? Because I’d had it out before checked the spring on it and rubber and all seemed okay (not that I’m arguing or saying you’re a lier, I’m just eager to hear what I missed so I can learn from my mistakes )

Sorry about the pilot jet too, if you could recommend a good screwdriver for pilot jets to avoid that rookie error I’d greatly appreciate it man

Also happy about the price, I thought it’d be more , one last thing as well did you put in new gaskets etc?”
(Price was £70)

Jim’s reply:
“ Hiya mate,
I use a mains tester screwdriver with the plastic sleeve cut off for the pilot jet it seems to fit perfectly.
The rubber on the float valve was quite worn you can see a line around it that's quite deep, I have changed that and the brass seat that it sits in.
Your carbs sat now below my Lc tank with petrol going into it so will leave all day to be sure.
I use royal mail
No gaskets needed but did replace the power jet pipe as that was a bit stiff.”

Long story short apparently my float valve was the problem. Admittedly I feel like a bit of a tool for not just replacing it for the sake of it to rule that issue out but we live and we learn.

I’ll reopen this thread again if ever the issue reoccurs and I can’t solve it, there’s a lot of useful info here.

@Calum said in Trying to fix an issue:

@Stevie-Wonder when the carb is next out, put your lips on the fuel inlet and blow, tilt the carb upside down and continue blowing. Confirm that the float needle shuts off the fuel.

I’ll be doing this in 5 minutes now I’ve found some time. Must admit thought I’ve swallowed a pill and I’m giving my carb to Jim Bailey.
The pilot’s jet’s head is fucked as my precision screwdriver turned out to be between not precise enough.
The air screw has not been adjusted for as long as I’ve had the bike, I’ve just not needed too. Thanks to this and our british weather I’m pretty sure it’s seized.

Long story short I’m taking the L. I still have to use the bike to get about and it’s not until I get my car/big bike license I don’t then have to rely on the bike. Which means every time I’m back at square one chasing mechanical dragons again I lose money and time I don’t necessarily have ultimately putting me further away from getting those licenses.

To be fair though, I’m not an engineer, I don’t have a ultra sonic cleaner so I think either way I’d still have needed to give it to someone else.

Thanks a lot though boys, safe to say I don’t roll my eyes at the thought of carbs anymore because of you lot

Is it possible your chains stretched in one place causing a tight and loose spot.

Riding BMX you get this happen a lot stopping you from being able to get the correct slack. This only ever happens with cheap / non genuine or chains made by a non reputable maker

Obviously I know this is bmx so I’m not sure how well it carries over but I guess the same principle could get applied