DT125R FORUM

@Stevie-Wonder They're ace, they'll sell you a GPX TSE250R engine which bolts straight in, and other stuff like a cone-shaped shim which fits on a DTR crankshaft under the flywheel to enable running it in a DTRe bottom end.

@Stevie-Wonder You’re right. The recessed ones might be stretch bolts, hence the price. If they are you’re supposed to replace them each time…

Oh that's cool, though my brother ran a 38mm Keihin on his 2001 DTR. Just heated up the rubber and stretched it over. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bOGAEzTaBgI

@Stevie-Wonder update the colour I was looking for was “Yamaha Competition Silver - Paint Code 00T9”

@SpookDog Loose the mirrors hand guards rear foot pegs change or loose the indicators for a smaller LED style loose the nobly tires for more road orientated and a recon you’d get an extra 2-3mph and on set of DT clocks that’s easily 5mph ! Lol

@Stevie-Wonder Thanks bud Greta (for that is her name as she's noisy, irritating, aimed squarely at the youth market and responsible for thousands of them bunking off school all over the world) cost me half as much as my '93 due to the mileage and had a thick layer of grime all over due to years of grinding commuting. I gave her a scrub with Jizer (several times) and this is what was underneath Here are the part #s for the toolbox and lid, bit pricey IMO and you'd have to get the lugs welded on to a non-e start frame. Be a nice touch if you were getting it powdercoated sometime though https://www.cmsnl.com/products/boxtool_55v2817301/ https://www.cmsnl.com/products/lid_55v2818500/

@Stevie-Wonder yes very good magazine. As is practical sports bikes.

@Stevie-Wonder said in 200cc crankcase conversion: @Calum said in 200cc crankcase conversion: @Stevie-Wonder Pretty sure he documented it all on this website... Ye I know @Calum I’ve re-reading it but all the photos are now gone @Challenger I’ve got a v force blaster 200 Reed cage that should help right ? And thanks @scrimsmustang! If I’d been known it was simple earlier I think I’d have already done it Excusing the powervalve blade itself do you need the WR’s Servo motor, pulleys and housing etc And I presume you need either a 200cdi or a Zeely/Ignitech programmable ignition too No you can use a 125 servo and a 125 CDI with no problems at all

Okay so I think I’ve solved it, if you cut away the tab/loophole that the coolant line at the rear feeds that’s attached to your air box (don’t worry everything still follows it’s original route and looks clean) you can then take off your battery tray and unbolt your air box and remove the whole system air boot included with absolutely 0 effort at all. To refit you simply the procedure in reverse, to fit it it all in you have to approach from the exhaust side and twist All that’s required is you remove your rear exhaust/silencer, rear quarter panels and seat I shit you not, what is usually a 45 minute job with lots of profanity is now a piece of piss

@HOTSHOT-III That's a Rotax 122 Kart Engine [image: xvnHq2Q.jpeg] Let go at 14k RPM (maybe higher) probably when it went over a bump and the engine rev'd its nuts off without a limiter...

@Calum ill bet You £7.50 it doesent no it's just a project bike haven't ridden it more than 10 minutes at this point

As it happens I think I actually have a 15” sprocket in my garage, anyone know what size the sprocket bolt is?

@stevie-wonder I would check for massive air leaks around the carb & inlet, also maybe the magneto side oil seal. Especially if the revs are really ring-ting, ting, ting, ting fuel starved sounding...

@spookdog gaskets are all fine and bikes holding compression and wants to run. Managed to take her out for a local ride yesterday with a fresh plug in to see what the plug looks like. If memory serves me right I haven’t got all the tools I need to get the flywheel and stator off so I was hoping It’s weird though because I’d have thought that if I had an air leak the bike would run extremely lean and get hot? Because not once did the bike ever get warm Whilst riding the symptoms where the same as before -really high idle (it sometimes died down a bit during the ride) I haven’t got a Rev gauge so I’m just guessing but majority of the time idle sat around 5k. -only start on choke, it’d enter powerband (hits hard enough to still lift the front end too) but will start to splutter and struggle to fully Rev out (typical signs of not enough fuel). -put the bike in gear and it’ll move without touching the throttle None the less she still ran good enough for her to drink a tank of fuel and get home safe without a breakdown. [image: 4Y5HTBb.jpg] [image: 3R533Q8.jpg] I have to admit @SpookDog I have a very strong sense that it is that crank seal that’s gone, all the evidence is there + It’d be due something like crank seal since I’ve owned her a few years now since coming over from France and not once have I had to touch the engine. Like I explained to my dad when he was making guesses at what’s wrong with it, “you can’t have a fire without air, so that bike won’t be to Rev any higher without air to allow it to do so since like a fire if you smother it with fuel to fast it won’t burn”. I could be wrong but that’s my logic. Ps hope you’re doing well bud, how’s everything with life and the bikes and scoots?

@calum KAWASAKI KH 125 BEST EVER! LEARNER LEGAL £4695 OFFERS PX KT TRIALS 250 400 INVESTMENT GRADE MOTORCYCLE AT ITS BEST! 1 mile.

I seen a post a few days ago he is shipping to the uk again

@stevie-wonder The most I ever had was a pre fab council garage that had no electric or light. I used to use old Fray Bentos pie tins with old engine oil and makeshift wicks as lamps! Caveman stuff... Some of the best stuff is made this way, needs force musts when you’re baked and cold ...

So leave the carburettor and oil pump cable alone, the cable from the junction box to the throttle tube is like 50cm long (if that). That's the only one you need to worry about. I run a YZ85 throttle tube on my DT.

@Calum said in DT200R Forks: Just put on your set of USDs, I don't know why you're overthinking it. If you have the storage, I'd recommend keeping your old forks for the future. I do, too much time, to many potential options and an urge to get things done quick I also felt a weird urge to just not mess with the bike for once and just leave it relatively standard after what we said. As with my build/bike anything removed goes in the loft and left alone. Even if that weren’t the case I plan on keeping it anyways. I actually read on here that someone made a custom axle for the DTR hub so they could use their DTR front wheel in their USD’s and thanks to the disk size being the same and the WR200’s and then sharing bolt patterns you just do the ole switcharoo. Perfect for me because I can have a trail/road Kenda K270 wheelset that’s 18/21 and my 21/19 set for knobblies In other news Facebook didn’t bid a successful sale and only led to me explaining to people that you can’t swap stems and that they don’t bolt on some I’m just cracking on with it and keeping them anyway.

@calum never truer words spoken and yet I’d never really though about it. Instead I can only think of the times I hadn’t thought about it but should’ve. I’ll remember that one for sure. Unfortunately my mate got pissed the night before and called me 30 minutes after we was meant to meet to say he’s hungover and can’t move, typical. With a week long forecast of snow and that being the one clear blue sky sunny day we was gonna get for a while you could imagine how I was feeling All’s not lost though I gave the local boys a shout and we sat outside in the sun having a smoke, a couple beers and doing bike stuff. My personal idea of perfection. I made the most of the day giving the RM a proper good deep clean and tending to every little rust spot I could whilst my mate Tom did a couple bits on his ‘04 YZ85 Big wheel [image: VL3ZfS5.jpg] 5 minutes of working off the brown sticky muck caused by that rust gel and you can already see the difference made. Pretty simple, the rust gel has a tendency to make everything look a lot worse then it is when you’ve left it on too long / it looks like the rust has grown. This i thought to be really annoying until a realised it actually works as a good way to highlight where I’ve missed / haven’t cleaned yet. If you do things the way I did buy a small/medium sized copper wire brush and scrub the spokes one by one. You can already see a shine start to come back to places that I thought would have been trash. The chain use to be so badly rusted that even after cleaning it I’d assumed it was a gold chain. Nah, turns its definitely silver hahaha Sprocket bolts and everything all look nice and new now [image: cmGLFMG.jpg] All I’ve used to bring this hub and wheel back was hammerite rust remover gel, a small and large copper wire brush and hot soapy washes uses either demon shine or rhino goo products as well as muc-offs premium brush kit. (The brush kit is a seriously good buy for anyone, there’s 6 different brushes all with rubberised and tips so you can never accidentally scratch or damage anything whilst cleaning) Dare I say it though, considering what this originally looked like it has no place looking this good!