Just measure from the inside of the fork leg to the rim on each side, +-2mm should be ok I think. If you release the nuts on the axle clamp on the right side (if I remember correctly) and pump the front suspension up and down, and then re-tighten, it should not bind. If the seals wear out too quickly, I would check the surface of the fork tubes, so they are not damaged (pitted from rust, flaking chrome etc.)

Well it looks like I have found the issue... somewhere along the line someone has pikey bodged the front axle and spacers... What should have had the sleeve spacer which has the 1mm wall which slides in to the 17mm ID bearing was clearly lost and someone had inserted a 40mm x 15mm bearing and used a spacer from an older DT in place of the correct one.. The joys of owning an unknown modified bike! So I am now getting a spacer machined up and I should be good to go! :grin: It has only been holding me up since before christmas.. so now I can get the wheels fitted, get the bike back to mine and do the final few bits before MOT.. starting to get excited now:grin: Picture of the spacer that I should have had below: [image: 1773302928622-spacer.jpg] Versus the spacer that someone had installed and was somehow using.. [image: 1773303198579-shaft.jpg]

@ChuckSR86 Do you have a DTR or a DTX? [image: yamaha%20dtx%202006.jpg] or [image: yamaha%20DT%20125%20R%201991.jpg] I must admit, if it's light greenlaning, then you can get away with it on supermoto in the summer? Anything more hardcore then some knobbley's would be ideal. For simplicity, I'd be lacing a set of hubs with ally rims for knobbleys. That way you only need to swap the wheels and not the brakes.

£300 is a good price. Get them respoked with some stainless steel spokes and powdercoated hubs etc. I ended up running RS 125 wheels on my Yamaha to get it supermoto. But again, that wasn't cheap. By the time you've refurbished them, sure I paid more than £300 all in.

Thanks so much, I managed to figure it out but Now I'm dealing with my own front brake problems haha

I’ve always froze my bearings heated up the hub greased everything up then gave a bit of gentle persuasion, never had any problems the couple of times I’ve done it but that’s a pretty handy trick

@SpookDog I've had good results with car shampoo in the past, it has the same lubricating qualities as Fairy Liquid but without all the nasty elements which rot the rims from the inside. I used to have this problem fairly often with Avon TrailRiders in the recommended sizes on DTR rims; excellent tyres but it was always difficult to get them to pop the bead and sometimes I had to deflate the tyre completely, remove it and refit 90 degrees around the rim. This is even after blowing them up to 50psi with the valve core removed using a compressor. I've had to leave them at this pressure for 30 minutes or so in the past as well, and resort to other tricks like hammering the sidewall kind of downwards with a rubber mallet at the affected spot (watch the rim!). It was only ever a problem with this particular make and model of tyre, they were ace on the road but Avons have always been a bit strange. Most bike shops fit tyres using the 50psi-no-valve-core-compressor method. This might not be what you want to hear but if your rim responds to this treatment by exploding then it was a pretty safe bet it was sufficiently corroded to be unsafe to use. Slightly off topic but there's a well-known story called "The Imprint of Death" they tell kids at tech colleges about a tyre fitter who was fitting a truck tyre and didn't bother using the circus animal-sized cage they put them in to pop the bead; it went bang and half of him ended up stuck to the ceiling. A bike tyre won't do that but still has a lot of energy stored in it, enough to do someone serious harm if they're stood right next to it. I think if I was worried whether a crusty rim of mine could handle 50psi, I'd be on the lookout for a new wheel to be honest.

That’s absolutely fine, never had a chain cover to begin with. Thanks

@Vcelicka The handling on my DTR is fricken superb! I've had these tyres for ~10 years and they've been spot on. Uhhmm, I'd have to check but I'm not going into the garage now. I think it's 110 on the front. But again, I'm running different wheel/fork setup so the spacing is all different. Handles a dream though.

@GiannisT I live on an island and I learned to do the repairs in everything my self,there are very few mechanics that know 2 strokes the right way for tuning,for stock factory repairs find one that service's enduro 2T bikers. An old timer mechanic is what you need. If you learn yourself everything you just need a machinery shop owner friendship. 🙂

@SpookDog Hi mate, its cool, many thanks for even trying to help, goes a long way and stuff like that makes for a great friendly forum. Theres no rush anyway for me to get hold of the parts, its a long term project anyway, plus my cbt expired in 2008, thats the last time i legally rode a 125! So nowhere near ready to ride yet lol. I'll keep a look out online for a complete item. Thanks and Merry Christmas.

Also, if it’s all gonna be replaced. Use as big a screwdriver as you can to go up through the chain, top and bottom. It should lock up the sprocket. Just make sure the screwdriver is tight against the bottom frame bar where the foot pegs are… It really shouldn’t be that tight though…

@R3L3_89 I wouldn't want to say. Take a look at Yamaha France parts lookup, key in your VIN(s) and check the numbers, they have a lot of details even for Yamaha products not initially sold in France: https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/fr/fr/service-maintenance/parts-catalogue/

@bird902 Even if the width and diameter are the same there’s no guarantee that the inner gearing will be right, or even the proper drive teeth inside. Those cheap things off of eBay are total shite, even if they fit… IMO Original parts are the only way to go with parts like these… Is yours mendable? The teeth ring inside often gets bent and just needs straightening. That or used parts… If the Dtx is the same as a Dtr part you’re looking at about £40 second hand…

@Calum I’m running Michelin Anakee wild on my DT200 and as a road tire I’m really impressed. I haven’t been properly off road yet and agree if you can afford them another set of wheels with proper off road tires is the way to go.

As it happens I think I actually have a 15” sprocket in my garage, anyone know what size the sprocket bolt is?

@jobloug See these threads bud; https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/189/brake-upgrades https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/2235/brake-discs-for-dt125x-compatibility-brands-and-references