DT125R FORUM

Merry Christmas everyone!

@HOTSHOT-III Hopefully the issue gets resolved as I don't want to lose the data they're hosting. The important stuff I ought to host here to guarantee it isn't lost.

@Rat80y The drain bolt stretching is a common thing on the DTR, IMO it's a design feature as if you overtighten it it usually snaps. Whilst being a right PITA to get the clutch cover off and wind out the broken part, it does mean the thread in the crankcase is saved (new crankcases = much more difficult/expensive than taking off an engine cover) so I hope you've ordered genuine from Fowlers (get a load of copper washers as well for future gearbox oil changes). Tightening torque is 15Nm so it's also well worth getting yourself a 1/4" drive torque wrench like this one: https://planetx.co.uk/products/jobsworth-pro-torque-wrench-set-1 There is some truth in both your AI source and what your friend said. In the days of the 12bhp learner restriction, DTRs with the powervalve pinned shut would struggle to rev beyond 6k rpm but properly set up/derestricted/full power it should rev to around 10k.

Oh that's really cool! Well it looks well loved for, it's an appreciating classic that's for sure. I don't know of anyone who's done that conversion. The common one from back in the day were the Polysport conversions, but they're more enduro so not designed for peak brightness

@Kristóf You're correct about how the connections between wires are illustrated. But, with the light switch (#23) in the "PO" or "ON" positions (PO = POS), yellow/red from the stator (main feed to the lights) changes to brown at the 3-pin connector, then at the light switch this connects to blue. The blue wire (which also branches off to the speedo/tacho illumination bulbs #32) then goes to the main switch (#24) where it connects to blue/red with the main switch in the "ON" position. Blue/red then goes to the auxiliary bulb (#26) and tail/brake light (#14) and so illuninates them. It's confusing because the DT125R has AC lighting unlike a lot of bikes which run DC; look at the yellow/red wire coming from the stator (#7) and you'll see that after the 4-pin connector it splits into two. One side goes to the light switch (#23) and the other goes to the battery (#10) via the regulator/rectifier (#9) which changes the AC output from the stator into DC to charge the battery. The DT125R is quite unique in this respect and one advantage of this setup is you can run a very high wattage headlamp bulb without flattening the battery. I always ran this one and even owners of bigger bikes were amazed how bright my headlamp was: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161339938963?hash=item25909c1893:g:1~UAAOSwewJTn~QT&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwF8Gw72CnU%2FbU0Zeu1tjSRJFvfcr8SwbZT4fRnA6WLf6yF0iSX4F43bpTTUSgtfBlW1qXJSqMRtuS3Z1Luu%2FAD2VbsWrYvQrEc7oksN8VfDpaJHi6ZYW7zMtJnc%2F1be5np%2B6CZfap%2Frggb9cb01JyCQriOkPtIXXi8yWcKEn3mLr0%2Bhj6%2FoeZKr0o8Jl3vVA6Hka4%2F2xaD1awxGTbT2XEJFqjhxzyuYbuNe8sKHYOq%2Fho75%2FaGbmg%2FihQpqKGR%2B4kA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6iwz8zLYg In fact looking again at the main switch #24 can make this easier to understand; when in the "Park" position, red from tha battery connects to blue/red, illuminating the auxiliary/tail lights with a direct DC supply from the battery. Hope this helps!

After some research I did manage to find the sizes, and some more detailed photos so now I can actually buy some. I do think that it's rather a stopper or something than an adjustment tho obviously it changes the needle height, either way I'm sure they're important. Thank you all for the help!

@Calum That site is known even more year's!!!!!