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    G
    Unable to log back in had to set up a new account
  • Got an Account Problem? Discuss here!

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    CalumC
    @HOTSHOT-III Hopefully the issue gets resolved as I don't want to lose the data they're hosting. The important stuff I ought to host here to guarantee it isn't lost.
  • A place to talk about whatever you want
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    CalumC
    Hello @matt0084 and welcome to the forum. Amazing, what a choice for a bike at 17. Thanks for taking the time to say hello. Yes, you always have to start somewhere and the DTRE is a great bike to start with. That's where I started out learning about bikes/mechanics all those years ago and then the passion for bikes just spiked!
  • Show off your builds!
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    CalumC
    Aprilia ETX Suspension Bushes Bearings Part No Dimensions Description Quantity AP8121815 12X26X12(16) GE12PW -SPHERICAL BEARING 1 AP8110037 18x24x12 HK1 812-MB Major Brand HK1812 Drawn Cup Type Needle Roller Bearing with Two Open Ends 6 AP8110067 22x28x16 HK2216-MB Major Brand HK2216 Drawn Cup Type Needle Roller Bearing with Two Open Ends 4 AP8120809/AP8110068 18x24x3mm Nitrile Rubber Rotary Shaft Oil Seal Springless Design VC Style 6 AP8163318 - Aprilia MX Shock Absorber 856715 - Aprilia RX/SX Shock Absorber AP8135848 Aprilia RX 1995 Swinging Arm AP8121121 - Swinging arm pivot bush AP8105132 - Swinging arm pivot bolt Uses same suspension linkage & swingingarm pivot bolt. The swingingarm pivot bushes are the same and are also used in the Aprilia RS 125.
  • Need Information on a Specific Part? Post Here!
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    CalumC
    @ChuckSR86 Do you have a DTR or a DTX? [image: yamaha%20dtx%202006.jpg] or [image: yamaha%20DT%20125%20R%201991.jpg] I must admit, if it's light greenlaning, then you can get away with it on supermoto in the summer? Anything more hardcore then some knobbley's would be ideal. For simplicity, I'd be lacing a set of hubs with ally rims for knobbleys. That way you only need to swap the wheels and not the brakes.
  • Need more power? Check here!
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    CalumC
    Hi @matt0084, 77MPH sounds pretty decent to me! My DTRE certainly doesn't reach those speeds anymore and I've just about tuned everything on it. I swear when I got the bike bone stock it did 80+ and went off the clocks. But alas, I suspect I've put on weight and so has the bike and that's what I'm left with. I'm not sure what restrictions Italian models would have had, are they the same as the UK models. Of course, making sure the YPVS is working is going to be your first port of call. The way I check this to rule out other possibilities, is to align the valve with the exhaust port so that it is flush and then disconnect the powervalve system. Go and take your bike for a ride. Without the valve you'll notice it's lost all bottom end, but after 6K RPM you should feel the bike come alive and scream to the red line in every gear. This is going to be what your bike would be like if the valve was working (minus the bottom end loses). If your bike is like this, then you know the issue lies with your valve timing (you've indicated it's reversed so unreverse it). If your bike is still sluggish and slow, then your problem lies elsewhere. It's a misnomer about the second bottle on the boot. Please restore this bottle to the air boot, it is not a restriction. On the DTR engine there is free performance to be gained by flowing the crankcases. If you remove the reed block and look down the inlet port, you will see that the spigots on the bttom of the barrels protrude into the ports. There is around 12mm to be removed from the spigots. Also, port matching the bottom end to the cylinder is very important. If the crankcase transfers don't match the barrel transfers then you're just dropping performance on the floor. Sadly both of these free performance improvements require you to dismantle the engine, but worth bearing in mind next time the engine is stripped.
  • Need a Guide? Look Here!
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    MadGyverM
    @Calum That site is known even more year's!!!!!