@SpookDog it is a a lot of money yes but they are suppose to be so good, look them up online on the reviews they are suppose to make the performance so much better, also takes the stress out of jetting been wrong on traditional carbs Ect, which I think is a pretty common problem on DTs is carb related problems
The whole goal of my project is to build a old school looking two stroke but have a more improved or up to date component structure
I’m pretty sure everything’s on the stock set up on the carb although the pilot screw is at 1 and 1/2 turns out I’m planning on doing a top end rebuild and maybe getting the cylinder wall honed if it needs it but I’m gonna keep the standard 56mm bore also putting some boysen reeds in it to make it a bit more responsive
my mates got a 1988 model with a hand welded pipe from Portugal and with reeds and no snorkel and I think he went Down to 230 main jet and standard on everything else so I’ll keep mine on the 240 and see what’s it’s like after I’ve done it he said the reeds make it a bit richer so may have to go down a few
The centre is usually a good colour, but it is only the very centre, electrode, ect. The ‘outer ring’ is always black and wet. No matter how it’s ridden. I removed the bottle top plug I have on the carb to filter rubber, to let more air in and the engine ran a lot better. Not proper but better...
The Mikuni website begs to differ "Kit may be installed easily on TM and VM series Motorcycle and Snowmobile carburetors."
The carbs that Yamaha use are not the same. They are made by Mikuni but they are made to order. The power jet has no ‘brass screw in’ adjustability. It’s just a casting. There are a few other differences like having heater pipes and lack of air~jet brass screw adjustability...
@DtxPower Best jetting for Athena 170 is 300 main jet on the
standard Mikuni tm28 carb but with the powerjet blocked off. Just cut the rubber tube in half from the float chamber to the powerjet then block the 2 halves of the rubber tube with a couple of 5mm threaded bolts or similar.
As for cleaning it, I admit I usually leave my carb alone as much as possible and leave it for those more experienced then I however cleaning it isn’t too hard.
If you can take the carb off yourself then locate someone with an ultrasonic cleaner and Chuck them a tenner, failing that go to your local bike shop.
However there are plenty of extremely detailed and fool proof tutorials on YouTube for the DT125R look this, courtesy of my favourite grumpy old git of a DT enthusiast, Frankie. link text