@terry-tz they only go so small I’m on a 32 lowest is 30 I care from a 36 I believe but it’s still way too much I roasted an head gasket because I had the af screw too far out to combat the problem (I knew the risks)
@Darty Oh, didn't think of the wr inlet thing. I'm actually trying to modify the original inlet boot right now, if the project is successful I'll post some pictures. But thanks for responding. I don't think I have the skills to design something like that but I could try. I just really don't like my pod filter because it gets wet easily and just sucks a bit overall.
@declan yeah my experience with them is the same, thought id post it because some people might not give them a chance because of the price compared to the branded ones that are 3x or 4x the price and think the replicas must be shit since theyre way cheaper and come straight from china, but so far ive heard nothng but good about them so if your looking at a new carb they seem to be a great option
Been thinking of getting myself a replica TM30ss/TM32SS. The angled spigot as taught to me by darty is very helpful if you do any sort of off roading with your bike. However I certain can’t justify £150+ until I know the setup works very well
My method was that I turned out A/F screw about the same as the manual says (28mm Mikuni - 1 and 1/4). Then i went for calm ride using only up to 1/8 turn of the throttle. After 10km I checked spark plug and based on colour of it I further turned the A/F screw inwards. So I did not base on factory setting but on colour of spark plug...
@Bodylad I’m running 220 main jet 27.5 pilot jet and standard needle position. This is with full dep system, v force reeds & re-bored to the limit of the standard cylinder. Runs very well. Probably a tad rich. Just waiting on my zeeltronic system to arrive next.
If your experiencing revs not dropping like ‘normal’, I would say your pilot jet could be either blocking up or too small.
Also I tried running airbox without the snorkel but couldn’t feel any benefits when adjusted. I find the standard airbox setup perfect.
Regarding the exhaust studs if there is still metal left where they came out you can repair them. I'd recommend using time-serts over helicoil as it's an actual new threaded insert rather than a coiled piece of wire. If the cylinder is badly damaged it will need to be welded to build up enough metal to repair.
You might be able to pick up another cylinder cheaper than the repair if very lucky