@SpookDog yes the spring, rubber parts and piston are available at mikuni

mikuni topham should have it if its the mikuni carb

@declan alright Thanks for the help!

@Darty Oh, didn't think of the wr inlet thing. I'm actually trying to modify the original inlet boot right now, if the project is successful I'll post some pictures. But thanks for responding. I don't think I have the skills to design something like that but I could try. I just really don't like my pod filter because it gets wet easily and just sucks a bit overall.

@Arild said in Best carb for the dt125re 2006: @declan yeah my experience with them is the same, thought id post it because some people might not give them a chance because of the price compared to the branded ones that are 3x or 4x the price and think the replicas must be shit since theyre way cheaper and come straight from china, but so far ive heard nothng but good about them so if your looking at a new carb they seem to be a great option Been thinking of getting myself a replica TM30ss/TM32SS. The angled spigot as taught to me by darty is very helpful if you do any sort of off roading with your bike. However I certain can’t justify £150+ until I know the setup works very well

@Darty thanks

Well it's going to be specific to that carb. Jets are not universal, they all use different size measurements. Jet the bike accordingly to suit. It's not that difficult once you know what you're looking for. There is a guide on here.

@Glynn123 oh ok. That makes more sence.do you know what the differnece is? I am now running 146 main jet in a koso 32mm carb, but when i rev it at max it wont go over 8k in rpm.

Yea thats true, do you know what the stock jetting is?

@Calum i thought the same thing. a carb doesnt change that much so it should work when paired with the right intake. got a 36mm keihin to work on my dtre so why wouldnt a lectron work

Oh I did not know that... My method was that I turned out A/F screw about the same as the manual says (28mm Mikuni - 1 and 1/4). Then i went for calm ride using only up to 1/8 turn of the throttle. After 10km I checked spark plug and based on colour of it I further turned the A/F screw inwards. So I did not base on factory setting but on colour of spark plug... I hope my English is understandable enough...

I have also heard amazing things about these carbs and considering one for my build just the price tag is high I’m just contemplating splash out or go for a tm 32 or somthing along them lines

@Bodylad I’m running 220 main jet 27.5 pilot jet and standard needle position. This is with full dep system, v force reeds & re-bored to the limit of the standard cylinder. Runs very well. Probably a tad rich. Just waiting on my zeeltronic system to arrive next. If your experiencing revs not dropping like ‘normal’, I would say your pilot jet could be either blocking up or too small. Also I tried running airbox without the snorkel but couldn’t feel any benefits when adjusted. I find the standard airbox setup perfect. Hope this helps

Regarding the exhaust studs if there is still metal left where they came out you can repair them. I'd recommend using time-serts over helicoil as it's an actual new threaded insert rather than a coiled piece of wire. If the cylinder is badly damaged it will need to be welded to build up enough metal to repair. You might be able to pick up another cylinder cheaper than the repair if very lucky

@Calum i have made sure it works the way it was meant to work when i cleaned it im not sure that is the problem

@Darty ah right cheers, I've had no issues so far on the standard float height the carb came with, what symptoms should I be looking for? Just a bog when holding bike wot for a while? Had bike flat out for a good minute or so in 6th and never seen any issues?

@ringdingding So not only will the oil be injected through the pump, but also the vacuum created under the engine. So it will draw more oil through under load etc.

Have you removed the fuel tap at all? Start with that and flush the tank with water, could be plenty of dirt sticking at the bottom. Just give it a good clean and when you put it back together make sure there isn't any water left at all, that could lead to serious problems. Also check your air-filter, if its slightly oily that is normal. Check the seal is still intact between your filter and airbox outlet, I imagine if there isn't it can let dust and dirt get through which will eventually cause issues. And as the others said, an in-line fuel filter is almost a must-have. You can buy them in a bundle for next to nothing.

@declan yes it pulls right out

Thinking about running a 32mm one of these or maybe the polini 32mm pwk, did you ever give this carb a try?