The first people with a 170 kit lifted the cylinder 3mm, hence the terrible torque curve..but from then on the myth that the 170 kit needed 'port adjustment' was set in stone..while it benefits from porting, lifting the whole lot 3mm is a bad idea...The Athena 170 cylinder is the same casting as the 125 but bored out to 65mm. Most people reported a good increase in bottom end grunt but no real gain at peak hp. It turns out this is mainly due to the cylinder casting being the same as their 125cc cylinder, so has 125cc sized ports.
I opened them up to 170cc sized ports by widening the exhaust
5mm, and lifting the transfers 1mm using a 1mm base spacer
and 1mm skimmed of the top of cylinder. It is better raising the
cylinder rather than modify the transfer ports as the Nicasil
plating chips easily.

Double check the pv cable setting. On mine with the pulley
lined up with the mark, it was only about 3/4 open. Only when
I looked up the port did I spot why it felt so flat initially!
Initially the 170 kit felt awful, until I double checked the pv
setting and found it was about 3mm closed. Once that was
reset, it flew...

Here is a proper 2002 powervalve on the left and early type diamond powervalve on the right, if they were all diamond shape wouldn't have a rectangle in powervalve pully. Yamaha didn't make a 2003 they are 2002 models just registered later.

Only the older DT and TZR TDR had a diamond shaped end on the powervalve, all the later 3RM models all have a rectangle end that is an exact fit in the powervalve pully. If it is a 2003 with a diamond shaped end then it is not the original powervalve and probably not the original barrel either.

@d3cme I have a 2002 dtr imported from the isle of man, has the 3rm-20 cdi. Moved the reed switch about 6 inches just cut the insulation so could pull the 2 wires really out of the way. Mine didn't rev past 7-8000 max till moved the reed switch now revs past 11000 and goes off the clock. If you rev it stood still in neutral does it got to 11000.

Added this tilt sensor to my alarm as can set it up easily with bike on the side stand so goes off if the bike moves less than 1mm.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tilt-Switch-module-sensor-for-security-applications-motorbike-caravan-alarm/283171094902?hash=item41ee500176:g:bq4AAOSwawBbYKty

This is the alarm I have fitted, excellent alarm for the money and very loud.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EASY-FIT-Motorcycle-Motorbike-bike-Scooter-Trike-Quad-Alarm-2-wire-connection/191021841479?hash=item2c79c9fc47:g:SdcAAOSwk4RcNMLs

I keep my DT outside till building a new garage, this is the ground anchor I use with a 16mm chain and never had any problems with bike outside for over a year. I use a cheap alarm with an additonal motion sensor that was an extra £5, will find the link for you. Very sensative tilt sensor but doesn't go off in the wind, tilt sensor fully adjustable.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oxford-Brute-Force-Motorcycle-Scooter-Ground-Wall-Anchor-Bike-Sold-Secure-LK397/253702132696?epid=1205376285&hash=item3b11d353d8:g:OmgAAOSw6AlbNLUD

@arild Added boost ports and modified powervalve to suit, can
upload port maps to add boostports.

Previously fitted a PWK 32 carb to a 2003 dt and the carb is quite small pictured next to a Mikuni TM 30. Fitted it to a modified 2003 dt inlet manifold, throttle cable outer needs shortening by 30mm carb end and with a warm air filter rubber fits over.

Hi, was bored and honed by Mick Abbey to 137cc but still has rebores left.

@StuKing94 Stay away from it as not a 2001 and
not even any 2001 parts on it. Should be like this genuine 2001.
https://pasteboard.co/xC8SKugS9JKs.jpg
https://pasteboard.co/iITMEcb8cfsb.jpg

@SpookDog Your previous barrel must of been worn out and lack
of power if think 3MB00P has more power as so mildly ported, the
P stamped parts had slighty more power as had different carbs etc. The P stamped head is standard 3MB head just without the casting numbers on top..

@SpookDog Hi, Everything there is to know about the TZR125 and every mod ever been done to Yamaha 125 engine on mates
website. http://www.tzr4dl.com/index.html.

@SpookDog Use "Silkolene Comp 2" .Left months in tank no jet issues. 32:1 so use 1ml of oil to 32ml of fuel (32ml oil to 1L fuel).
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331841241723

@oisin Here a some pictures of the parts, have given you a set of Carbon Fibre Reeds for free. If you give me your email will send lots of high resolution photos of the parts as don't know how to add images here properly.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i/portingmaster/1.jpg?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i/portingmaster/2.jpg?width=450&height=278&crop=fill)

@Oisin The cylinder has been rebored and honed with a quality
Namura piston kit, comes complete with modified powervalve and a brand new Japanese little end bearing. Has been re-painted in VHT met silver. £200 plus delivery
cheers Terry

@calum Will be getting it dynoed at Mick Abbeys in a couple of weeks so will upload dyno results and video of its power run once
sorted. cheers Terry

@Oisin Have a 3MB00 barrel with a 56.75mm Bore Namura Piston Kit just been bored & honed at Mick Abbey Tuning. still at Micks buf will be picking up this week, pm me if want it and will
upload some photos. cheers Terry

@arild Added boost ports and modified powervalve to suit, can
upload port maps to add boostports.

@DtxPower Best jetting for Athena 170 is 300 main jet on the
standard Mikuni tm28 carb but with the powerjet blocked off. Just cut the rubber tube in half from the float chamber to the powerjet then block the 2 halves of the rubber tube with a couple of 5mm threaded bolts or similar.