Hi guys, sorry for the really late reply, there was an unbelievable difference from changing the pipe and upsetting my main to 250, the bike pulls very strong through low end and has a big kick at high revs, it also absolutely screams way higher than my old stock expansion chamber with dep end can. Here's a video I took a while ago of a quick acceleration with the pipe, although it doesn't have quite the kick it has now that I've put my boost bottle back on, I had it off for a while to see if there was a power change.
The overall speed and power of the bike is about the same as my mates 2016 CRF 250x, both accelerate about the same and top out roughly the same, but the Dt suspension isn't quite as good
https://youtu.be/KQQ217FyGFE

Merry Christmas to everyone here, hope you all get The bike parts you asked for from Santa
I heard he would be doing the rounds Abit quicker this year

Bonus points for Christmas related bike pics

Went out for a solid 10 minutes to warm the bike up and check headlight wiring was correct, wasn't up for breaking an arm today

Hopefully it worked this time

It's been a while, again
But my DT is finally out of hibernation properly and I've done some little bits, passed her MOT the other week with a couple advisories, but nothing major at all.
Over the winter I've been fitting and experimenting with a new Polini PWK 32mm carburetor, after lots and lots of tuning and jetting I've finally got her right, not perfect, but right for now!
The carburetor made a nice difference I found, revs up clean and seems to have more torque throughout the revs than standard, fit original intake system nice too.
I bought a cheap blowtorch, butane and some heat proof lacquer to blue the welds on my romeu exhaust and clean up some of the rough spots from the grit and grime of the UKs winter roads.
It took a long long time and nearly killed me with the fumes but it's looking good now! And I'm starting to be happy with the build, still after some decals for the bike but struggling to find someone who can do designs how I'd like, but I'll keep the search up.
I also just got an absolute bargain of a DTR engine, I think it's a 2003 but it is completely unsplit, none of the bolts had been touched (until I got to it ) and it came with a fresh original carb and servo. Took the cylinder off to free the rings, piston and bore look brilliant but rings are slightly out of spec at 19 thou so ordered an original set and Athena gaskets to bring it up to spec. This engine will be dropped in my bike over the next couple months, just got to steal the unrestricted head from my current engine and it should be good to drop in once built.
Got a 200 mile memorial run in a week and a half so trying to get some miles on the bike and iron out all carb issues etc, I'll keep updated on how it all goes.
Here's a pic of the toys currently

I love my romeu hendriques pipe, the bike revs very happy, but I wont say anything else as it always seems to cause controversy with dep fanboys in DT groups haha

Alot of enduros are registered under power from factory, they can be riden on A2 however if police decide to Dyno you it can cause issues. My mates Beta 300rr came brand new registered at something like 11kw, and I have seen alot of the KTMs are the same. Some insurers ask for proof of restrictions with a2 bikes, most don't. It's on you wether you want to risk it or not, however the likelyhood, atleast in the UK, of being convicted seems fairly slim, I know alot of people riding 600s, KTM 690 unrestricted etc on A2 with no issues, but in the event of a crash you may not be paid out, but the same goes for not declaring modifications. Insurance nowerdays is a nightmare, it's up to you how you want to go about it all.

@Calum the ride homes a lot nicer than the ride there, even in summer 6-7am is cold at 60mph

Got the carburetor on nicely yesterday, with heat the airbox went on well, cheers Calum!
Cutout the lid of my airbox completely and fitted a new air filter, it was butchered anyways.
Upon first start the caburetor was obviously way lean, would only run on choke and it sounded crackely, so swiftly shut it off and fitted one of the mid range pilots I had and removed the main jet, as to your guide Calum.
Bike ran nice, could adjust the pilot circuit nice and it seemed to have a sweet spot with the screw fairly far out. Bike would splutter badly when going full throttle, obviously due to the main jet being removed, but up to 3/4 seemed to rev nice so didn't touch the needle yet. Fitted the 142 main jet out of my kit, which was alot bigger than standard, think the second size up from my kit, bike ran nicely up to temperature on the spot, revved fairly clean but has a bog when pulling throttle wide open from idle, I know this is likely the main jet being lean but I didn't want to change it until I have the needle and pilot correct.
Went for a 5 mile run into town for some petrol, bike splutters and ran crackely up to about quarter throttle when riding the bike at a constant rpm, seemed to smooth out past that, so I'm guessing pilot is still lean?
However it also had similar symptoms while accelerating until higher rpms, once onto the main and the ypvs opened the bike went awesome, bags of power and sounded very crisp, however i didn't ring it out too much. Temperatures are staying good while riding.
I'm thinking tomorrow I will raise the needle a notch and swap out to the next size up pilot jet and try another test ride, I've got the next couple days off work to play about with this, and this carb is brilliant to work on.

Hi everyone, thought id finally make a thread for my build
Basically towards the end of last year I decided it was time to strip my DT down and rebuild it, sorting out all the shocking wiring and mess the previous "builder" had left.
Just before I stripped the bike down it looked like this

I had been wanting to do a USD fork conversion for a while, and a WR 426 came up on facebook for breaking, so I quickly snapped up the forks and front brake for a good price. I then went and bought a front axle and triple clamps for the forks and got myself a set of RFX bearings to match. I finally got round to striping the front end off the bike early this year and made my spacers following the bearing cup guide on here, worked a treat but I had to add an extra spacer at the bottom bearing and make a 1mm bush for the outer bottom race to fit in the standard headstock. Once the triples were painted and fitted it looked a treat, alot bigger than the standard triples and forks!

I then cleaned up, primed and painted my forks, fitting some fork sleeved to keep them protected, also fitted some grips and mounted some bits on the bars.

Notice the MT 125 wheel in the rear, I had bought and planned to fit these wheels to my DT as they were a cheap option, but the manufacturing needed for them to work would of been very tricky, I made an axle first which worked good, but the rear wheel even when spaced correctly would need a hubcentric spacer for the disc and spacers for the sprocket. The axle was also very thin compared to the standard DT rear axle, long story short I scrapped the idea as I just wasnt happy with how safe the bike would be after all the work, mainly the tiny mt rear axle. Once some DTX hubs laced to saxess rims with stainless spokes came up for £100 I snapped them up.
While waiting for my wheels to arrive I sanded and polished my tank which I resprayed in 2k gloss black last year, also fitted the seat on the bike

I made a custom front axle along with bushing for the DTX front wheel to work in the huge forks, spacers were nearly perfect on standard rim and only needed slight modification, I also got to keep the speedo drive and standard clocks which was a big plus for my budget.
I made the axle out of 30mm EN8 bright steel, worked great but was tricky to turn down. The end was threaded in M14 x 1.5 like the standard DT front axle and a stainless nylock nut used.

Rear wheel fitted with standard axle as youd imagine, fitted new pads front and rear aswell, sadly the rear caliper pins had corroded a little so the slider wouldnt go far back enough for the disc to be free, after some grease and persuasion it went and the brakes free.

Got the bike out today as it was fairly dry, alot easier to see any marks or rough spots when in sunlight.

Overall im very happy with how the builds going, ive definitely missed alot of work that ive done but will try keep the thread updated as I go along. Ive got the caliper adapter to make along with other things like the headlight etc, but the bikes been fully serviced and should be good for its mot next month, new chain, sprockets, oil, pads and good tyres. This summers going to be a good one.

Cheers
Glynn

It really isn't much to look at! Inside and outside
Looks like waters been in the crankcase also, casings are benign split tomorrow hopefully and looking at possibly bead blasting the crank if I don't find a replacement, gaskets and piston are ordered.
https://i.imgur.com/tsqKxNp
https://i.imgur.com/jL4HXks
https://i.imgur.com/vg2zHgF

EDIT
Will embed images later I don't have my PC atm and phones not liking imgur right now

@calum my DT must spend a lot of time in reverse, went from 18k to 14k in a year

DTX wheel hubs are slightly different, the disc side wheel spacer is different so you'll need that, then it should fit on with speedo drive. You'll need to make a caliper bracket though and I'd imagine you'd find the standard DTR forks abit soft.

Had good results with my Polini PWK 32, fits standard airbox and intake without mods, jetting was a bastard and I spent alot of money on jets and needles, but at least now I have a very good base point for someone with a lightly modded DTR to work from.

Thought it might be about time to update the post, had a brilliant summer with my dt and happy to say it's performed perfectly all year, a few minor problems but nothing major. Been quite a few little mods done since I last updated this thread, I couldn't really remember to list them but you can see for yourself haha

Hi, I've just finally got round to posting on here, I ride a DT 125 RE which I have pretty much fully rebuilt since last September when I bought it.
Rough off my head spec list is:
New +0.50 wossner piston with barrel bored to fit
Full Romeu hendriques handbuilt stainless system
Alloy WR 200 wheels (but currently just changed back to my nobbys on stock rims for this winter)
Airbox snorkel removed with mesh screen, carb upjetted to 250 main
Painted and polished engine casings, powdercoated frame, painted tank, handguards, and a few other silly mods.
I've just really got into riding the bike and I absolutely love it, brilliant riding and handling bike and can keep up with some fairly quick mx and enduro bikes

I wouldn't worry at all about millage, id be suprised if half of the bike on here hadn't been clocked or the speedo cable removed at one point.

@calum yeah, basically my problem was starting the build too late in the winter, by the time I faffed about and got the forks done it was the end of January, my plans to have the bike on the road mid March and with the amount of manufacturing left to get the r125 wheels working, along with only being able to work on nights meant this likely wouldn't happen, and I am eager to have the bike on the road and well tested to do a memorial ride for a fallen rider early April.
I seen the bike which had used r125 wheels on here, looked like a very nice job, in fact it's on eBay right now with a couple days left and only at about £150
He used the older shape r125 wheels, which have different spacing and bigger outer bearing size, so I reckon a bigger bearing could be fitted to run the standard Dt axle. But basically the swap was a minefield of problems, and after doing the forks and many other bits on my bike I just wasn't in the mood for it this year, besides that the sm wheels I bought are in better condition and should be stronger.

There's been abit of reconsideration with the build, the rear end was going to be a nightmare, disc was so much out of line that a hub centric spacer would be needed, and one I got the opertunity of a pair of Dt hubs laced onto almost immaculate saxess rims with tyres and discs for £100 I couldn't turn it down haha. Pulled the new Michellin pilot street off the R125 rear wheel and swapped it onto the sm wheels, since the rear was on the limit anyways.
Will be updating the build as it goes, likely in another thread.
Cheers Glynn

@calum should be pretty strong as its solid bar and the standard Dt is hollow, I made mine out of a high strength aluminium but I'm thinking of re making in steel once I've done my spacers.

Here's some pictures showing the axle comparison, aswell as my custom axle and the wheel mock fitted on the bike.
http://imgur.com/a/NLB31

Hi again, back with another stupid idea that I'm trying to put into practice
Basically I'm building my Dt up from frame and engine this winter, YZ 426 forks and triples, MT 125 17" rims, bigger YZ calliper on the front etc. Front triples and forks are now ready to be put on since following the amazing Calums spacer guide (which was an absolute godsend). Just painting the triples before fitting it all together, but some super cheap MT wheels came up, literally a third of the price of wr sm wheels, and I think they will look more unique.
Here's the problems I've come across so far:
Rear axle is completely different, and way smaller than the standard hollow Dt axle. I've turned down my own custom axle to make the standard caliper work, also allowing the axle to sit correctly in the swingarm and be the correct length. A collar also needs to be made to go on the other end of the axle however.
Completely custom spacers need made on either side, and the brake disc will be completely out of line, and standard MT rear disc is actually slightly bigger and won't fit in the Dt caliper
However sprocket seems to be aligned perfectly when wheel is dead centre, but I will have to confirm this once I've made my spacers. This is all I've gathered so far for the rear wheel setup, I'll update this as I go along, I've not even considered the front axle yet as it'll be an absolute nightmare to do with the YZ forks

Long story short, do not attempt this conversion unless you have a lot of time, materials and access to a good lathe.
Even if you do have all this, don't be a tight arse like me and just buy the WR or DTX sm rims haha.

Never heard of a Dt oil pump fail and you can adjust them for more/less oil mix so dunno why you'd want to remove it if I'm honest.

Will have a shot of it over this winter, got big plans for the old DT in the next few months so will report back

Love my car but it's the DT I choose on warm days, but it's a damn lot better commuting nearly 30 miles in the car than on the bike on the colder days

@Calum yeah definetely, also my Romeu pipe melted half my L plate on some tight country roads

@Calum very true, that'll be what I'll do id say, got my eyes on some big 4t SM bikes right now but can't part with the Dt yet
Thinking of doing A2 in Autumn and keeping the DT without L plates until I'm ready to move on

@NINJA Yeah that's me on the DT haha

Has the life we all dream of and throws it away to because he cants stand being beaten. Boy what I'd do to have rich parents to buy me into racing

It's about the rider in the woods, seen 85cc bikes keep up with 250s in the past. I used to trail ride a lot on my trials bikes with friends on 250mx and enduros, trials bike max speed was about 45-50mph but would obliterate the MX bikes in tight sections.
The past year I trail rode my standard DTRE and it was happy enough keeping up with most MX bikes in the trails, it's a totally different ball park than road riding, power isn't so necessary and DTs are great for hill climbs.

I think I used to run a 25 pilot and 250 main on my original carburetor with romeu hendriques system and airbox snorkel removed, ran well.

Clean your carb out so you've got a good base point to start from. Your idle screw should be between 1 and a half turns out and about 3 turns out when the engines hot. If it's running better at under 1 and a half turns out then you want to fit a richer pilot jet, higher than 3 turns stick a leaner in. If this is set right the bike should always require choke from cold start, which is correct procedure.

@Louis-James yeah there's some dualsport tyre on it right now, I'll try get a picture when I finish work in the morning, should get back to you sometime over the weekend if not though

@Calum WR200 wheels fit and are a nice upgrade, front disc is bigger so you require the nissin caliper mind

@NINJA yeah weight reduction, there's Abit of slop in the wheels when you corner hard mind...

@NINJA will have a look over this week and see what I can do mate, phone camera is awful though haha

@NINJA haha yeah had a build thread for when I done my USD conversion etc, a lot has changed since then and done some extra little mods and got some super sticky Conti attack SM tyres fitted
Got some more plans for this winter if I keep the bike so should be more to come

@NINJA got the Romeu hendriques upright MX type currently mate, it's a nice pipe

@NINJA yeah I didn't know the clever side to it haha, I just try polish ever couple rides to keep her shiny

I wouldn't spend too long polishing, mine seems to bake an orange tint and blue at the cylinder end after a good thrashing! Looks awesome, really want an underslung now

I'm really wanting one of these underslungs for mine now!
Got the regular MX design Romeu pipe and it's awesome, he makes some great work
Liking the build mate

Definetely let us know what it sells for etc, maybe me and Calum are behind the times haha

Not being rude at all but I'm doubtful it would fetch over 2k, that's high price for a DT that would actually sell. Anything over is either a rare varient, super low miles or completely original DTR. Later RE and X models generally aren't worth as much and really only see them selling at a tops of 2k.

I think I made a post about this, the later ones are the same as an MT 125. I bought the rims off a 2015 and attempted the rear first, spacing for disc and sprocket are well off, you'll need a hubcentric spacer for the sprocket for certain, good luck getting one made, I wouldn't trust using individual spacers and longer bolts. The rear axle is also tiny compared to the DT one, I machined an axle with a step up on one end acting as a spacer and also to allow the caliber bracket to fit on correctly, then I was going to make a step up collar/spacer for the other end. The axle worked and I had the bike rolling but I sacked the project off and bought DTX wheels cheap, there's no real way to mount the wheel correctly and safely without getting expensive components manufactured. The front wheel looked easy enough.
Long story short, sell them on and get some TDR or DTX rims mate.

It's winter again, which means my DT is spread across the workshop.
Going for some more power for next season, plans are 32mm carb, some porting work, fresh piston and zeeltronic cdi
My box of goodies arrived today meaning I can start work

32mm Polini reworked PWK carburetor and some Jets to play with

I'm really happy with how this carburetor is built, one of the best I have seen in person and I've tried new Mikunis etc


Even managed to fit the carb in the standard DT rubber without any modification! Although it was very tight.

While I had the carb off I decided it was time to fit the carbon fiber reeds I've had laying around for over a year, doubt they make much of a difference but wont do any harm

I got the carb in and the bike runs happily on choke, although it does sound lean to me, which I expected. It won't run at all off choke but will be swapping out the pilot jet after work tomorrow for more experimentation

Cheers guys, they're skateboard wheels held with M8 threaded bar and nylock nuts haha

Thanks so much Calum, doing a wr426 fork conversion right now and was having a hard time with it.

@2stroke4smoke looks a very nice machine, the exact same headgasket situation happened to me, avoid the Chinese knockoffs haha. Rear caliper should be the later slider on the 04 RE and X, different to the older varient on the DTR.

@declan I used wellseal on my headgasket mate, developed by rolls Royce and used in a lot of racing engines without any gasket at all, just sealant on either surface. Top stuff and never had any trouble with it, doesn't really dry just fills minor scratches in surfaces etc

Well that's the build drawing to a close, light bracket made and everything wired up, Allen head bolts for forks and triples, new fork guards fitted with custom graphics, hand guards fitted, mirrors, polisport sm mudguard etc etc
Really happy with how the bikes turned out, very minor work to go now so just the niggly bits, booking insurance tomorrow and MOT is booked for Saturday morning, sadly Scottish weathers decided to be 1 degrees on that day but should make it
Will keep the thread updated with future changes and mods

Took the bike for its first test ride down a back road, feels good and everything's tight, nice and smooth and gearing feels pretty good, cruises very nice at 50mph so I'm happy with that for now. Only problem is a bit of clutch slip, gonna adjust the clutch and see what it's like on its run to the MOT place in a couple weeks, easy job if it needs plates anyway.
Got a graphics designer making some custom graphics for the bike also, trying to keep a standard look, however update the very outdated styling.
Headlight and windscreen also arrived from Yamaha today, sadly we have been hit with some mega snow (for Scottish Borders) and after riding in yesterday's snow I don't fancy anymore frostbite and solid fingers

@ninja to be honest mate I figured we were all around the same age range haha, but there again with age comes knowledge, the reason I come to this site is for how much all you guys know about these bikes and other similar models, I learn something new on here every day and it's great hearing about some of you guys experiences, the only forum I regularly visit

@calum how old are you now Calum? Not to be rude at all haha
I had a feeling you were mid 20s lol

@gbone85 paying £1500 I'd say you got a very good deal, my Dt re was pretty much scrap and I stupidly paid £1350, but there again the guy persuaded me it had been built from the ground up with full fresh engine, I reckon his dog done the build since I've had to re do every bit of the bike in the past 200km I've rode it

@NINJA I'll have a look when I'm next in the shed and let you know mate

@NINJA damn I'm jealous, been after one of them for ages!

Impressive work mate, you're gonna have to sell it to me when it's done

I've got a very rusty old pile of scrap for a rebuild project this winter which might interest you lot

Looks a clean bike, would like one of them but think my next move is a big 4t sm

@calum Always had Iridium IX in every bike/car ive had, from a 250 trials (bike that barely ever gets revved, very prone to fouling) to my DT, and run them on my daily Fiat T-jet, dont think ive ever had one foul, my Gas Gas destroyed its regular champion plug on the first run haha.

@calum I felt the same mate, probably one of the weirdest things I've experienced, a truly horrible feeling too haha, happened when I was probably about 12, so nearly 7 years on I've never experienced it again so wouldn't get too worried if I was you. Ofcourse if any symptoms come back it's best to see a doctor, I definetely ain't one to give any medical advice so take it with a pinch of salt haha

@calum had the same when I was a kid mate, it's something to do with the tip of your finger, had a tennis or baseball hit the very tip of my finger while at school, within couple minutes could barely stand, completely white, blurred vision the lot, you'll be fine never came back but was definetely a scare haha

@calum I've been off a bike since September, and wasn't riding very often since about the February before that, I'm no better haha
Used to do trials riding, still got the bike but the motivations left me

Honestly I don't reckon it would sell for over 2k, don't take that as me being rude, it's a beautiful bike. The problem is it's a Dt, they're no advanced machine in any aspect, look at what other bikes are around for that price? Dt prices are abit crazy right now and I don't think I've seen any sell for over 2 grand, even for very clean "r" models.
Lovely bike though mate, a lot cleaner than mine

I have the full hendriques system, my bikes stock apart from airbox snorkel removed, 250 main jet works well.

Don't liquid metal it mate, if you want to sort it get it tig welded, won't cost much and easy job

If anyone finds a good company for producing stickers I'd happily put an order in for a few, if we all pre ordered before the distributer puts an order in they would not end up out of pocket.

On DTX SM rims I run 120 front and 150 rear Conti Attack SM tyres, you don't really wanna go much wider than them on standard rims as the profile is pretty agressive, takes alot of lean to get full use of the curve but they feel very good on tight mountain roads.

@NINJA it's more the issue of sealing spoked rims mate, trials bikes use rim bands but I'm not too sure they'd be wide enough for stock DTR rims

@britshgigolo run a mouse if you don't mind the tyres fairly soft and replacement every year or so

That slime stuff was the bollocks when I used to mountain bike, never tried in a motorbike but using the recommended amount in some mtb tubes I never had a puncture or even a pinch flat in over a year, it's more rolling weight but not excessive

Never managed to get a puncture on a road bike before, where are you riding and what's puncturing???
I only really ride country roads and towns
Throw some off-road wheels on with nobbys and heavy duty tubes that would sort it haha

@Bluestoesonnose front hub is different, rear is the same. The dtx front hub has the bigger disc mounting holes and the left side spacer is different if I remember right.

Hi everyone, just back from a brilliant day of racing on twisties up a mountain pass, DT performed brilliantly and for the first time I could 100% tell the massive difference the USD conversion has made to the bike, no dive under braking and very planted through the corners, the little DT screaming down the pass was keeping up with a Ducati multistrada, although it was completely left on the straights haha.
Im having a problem with tyre sizes and profiles right now, currently I just threw any old tyre on the rear as I needed the bike going for summer, and havent had the money to change it yet. Currently ive got a nice Conti Attack SM 120 tyre on the front, very aggressive profile and feels brilliant in the corners, but the rear is massively letting me down. Its got a pretty much squared off Pilot Street 130 tyre, the profile is definitely too narrow for the rim and ive got pleanty space between the swingarm, it doesnt have much curvature, or atleast none compared to the front tyre, and its making the bike difficult to lean.

What tyres and sizes do people run on these things? id like to order a new Conti Attack SM 150 tyre for the rear as id say itll match the profile of the front well, but maybe this is too wide for the standard DTX/WRX 125 rims as I think the rear is 3.50?
Whats everyones opinion,
Cheers

JT sprockets do the job, and I'm very pleased with my Renthal R1 428 chain, about £30 and not O ring, just keep it cleaned and lubed every couple long rides and it'll do you well.

@declan no problem mate good luck with fitting it, might be abit different fitting than mine was so could be easier. If not it's not a bad job making headlight brackets anyway

@declan had one on mine and pointed at the mudguard due to the angle since clocks get in the way. Waste of time buying the cheap Chinese ones, don't fit right, looks crap and absolutely shocking build quality and brightness. Mine was one of the polisport ones.

I use a BR8EIX with full system and never had any problems, it's the same as the BR8ES but iridium tip.

Would rather a standard bore than a 170 if I'm honest, get it ported and I'm doubting itd be far off the Athena. Or if you're feeling the bigger cc kits splash out for a BARacing 200kit and really feel the power

@NINJA crikey, think it's time to scrap my winter tuning project and get it sold

Looks a very good bike for the money, I wouldn't write off China nowerdays, the stigma I'd generally from the way owners treat them, and this is clearly built miles better than the likes of lexmoto. Might prove to be an awesome trail/adventure bike

@NINJA been running it on an iridium for a while now, bought the standards just for plug chopping

Apologies for the state of the bike, I've not had the best of conditions or time the past few days I've been off work for testing.
I raised the needle one notch this morning, which seemed to help a lot with the throttle response, no bog when going from idle to wot
I also tried a step leaner pilot and main jet, upon riding around my drive it seemed to of made no difference to the spluttering issue I was having, so I then went up two sizes of pilot jet to see if it prefered the richer pilot, after about 50m up the road I went back home and swiftly removed it, spluttering worse than ever and barely wanting to run anything less than high rpms with wot
I then fitted the standard size pilot the bike came with, which is the smallest pilot jet I have and went for a ride. The bikes going allot better and seems fairly happy through most of the rpm, top end seems great and it's idling/cold starting nice. However I still have the spluttering issue under load, I've narrowed it down to roughly 1/8th throttle to about half throttle bad splutter, I'm guessing this is the crossover from the pilot to the needle jet? I'm unsure where to go from here, should I try lean off the needle again now I have a smaller pilot than before? The bike is practically unrideable through town behind cars doing 20-30mph, have to keep whipping the clutch in as it's spluttering so bad.

I know this is old, but to help future readers, I have very good results with snorkle removed and 250 main jet, this is paired with a full system.

@Mike1992
I'm having success with a Polini PWK 32mm on my DT, runs good with supporting mods but ideally you want to get a programmable ignition if going up to this size of carburetor, as you won't see too much gain. My RE with romeu exhaust, airbox cutout, reads etc ran good with it and had more torque over standard but didn't see an extreme speed difference, however my piston rings were pretty gone and bike was low compression. Original jetting the carb came with was well out and the needle was wrong, took me alot of time and money setting it up to work with the DT, happy to pass on the current good basepoint for it if anyone off here needed it
. Fuel consumption was extreme compared to standard carb too, with +1t on the front on long runs I would average 80mpg with some acceleration and cruising 60-70mph on standard carb with 250 main jet, however I'm guessing around 30mpg currently with the Polini.
Long story short, can't really get much better carburetor than standard without supporting mods ie programmable ignition
I have a pretty much brand new standard carburetor sitting in my shed off an 03 engine, this things done nothing and is a thing of beauty, was tempted to put it on my new engine but going for big power so keeping the Polini. Was gonna keep it as a backup but might be tempted to sell if a good offer came up, none of the bolts have ever been touched or undone, checked mixture screw and it's nice and free. Probably would want bowl and passageways cleaned which I would do but it's just too clean to touch haha.

Pick up a cap from the Scrappy, any car one with the same pressure will work aslong as it has the old style rad cap. You'll pay Penny's for it.

If you change the head gasket, skim your cylinder head cause it's likely warped.
This can be done easily at home, get a glass chopping board and put some 1000 grit sandpaper on it, rub the head around it in a figure of 8 motion. If the heads really bad I usually use a oil stone first. Repeat while adding water to the wet and dry paper until whole head surface is even and shiny. Torque the head down, run the bike up to temperature, and then torque it down once again.

Last weekend I got the Facebook marketplace steal of the year, a nearly brand new DTR engine with kickstart, carb, pv servo and a few other little goodies thrown in. Drove the 200 mile round trip to get it and was amazed what was under the dust, this things never been stripped or broken apart in any way, the carburetors litterally new and unseized too! Shame I've just got my Polini 32 working well.
I pulled the barrel off leaving the head intact to check ring gaps and head type, rings we're stuck from plug being out and slight moisture, but once freed the piston and bore looked brand new, no scores at all.
Ring gaps sitting at 19 thou, as far as I'm aware this is out of spec, what's the best rings out there to fit a standard bore Yamaha piston? And is there really a great power loss with the ridged cylinder head? (Think the engines an 03?) I could strip the unrestricted head off my old engine which is already skimmed but I don't really want to disturb the head gasket if there's not too much power loss?
Cheers

Bought a cheap eBay hydraulic clutch kit when first got my DT, slave cylinder seal shat itself about 5 rides in and had to ride home with no clutch. Also the cast for the parts was hilariously bad, I've never seen such a poor finish if I'm honest.

Mine seems to overflow out the left of the frame along side carb, as when the headgasket went a couple weeks ago it sprayed hot coolant all down my leg

I've always done about 5 heat cycles then a gentle ish ride before riding normal, never had any of my rebuilds seize or fail, obviously you don't wanna be holding it wide open for 2 or 3 rides but don't be afraid to accelerate, with a good forged piston and a few heat cycles you won't cause any harm.

Didnt bother lubing my PV after rebuilding, ensured all surfaces were very clean and mirror polished, it doesnt do a full rotation and moves as much as say a rev counter or speedometer, the bushes would well outlast a piston un lubed, the thing you should really worry about it carbon sticking to the powervalve, so keep it clean and if you can be arsed mirror polish it.

@Calum saved Abit of money with the ignitech and I'm really happy with the new software etc to be fair though, and the spark is terrific out the unit!

Jetting a none standard carb on a DT is a ballache, 32mm polini pwk didn't make my DT much faster at all without any supporting mods like ignition etc. The fuel usage was well over double too even with both carbs appropriately jetted.

@Darty yeah seems a difficult one, really don't know where to start with the YPVS at all wiring wise..

Got my DT running and mapped with the ignitech and new DTR engine, sounds really sweet, couple little issues but only one I don't think I can work out how to resolve, how is the YPVS wired into the unit? And by any chance would anyone be able to tell me the cable colours to the terminal number on the Ignitech DCCDIP2? I'm pretty sure it's the four pin servo as it's the later DTRE/X loom and pv. I am pretty lost right now haha. I bought an unwired unit as ignitech never replied to any of my emails, same goes with the support for some reason.. Would like the bike rideable soon but struggling enough for time to get out in the garage at the moment

On DTX SM rims I run 120 front and 150 rear Conti Attack SM tyres, you don't really wanna go much wider than them on standard rims as the profile is pretty agressive, takes alot of lean to get full use of the curve but they feel very good on tight mountain roads.

@Mike1992
I'm having success with a Polini PWK 32mm on my DT, runs good with supporting mods but ideally you want to get a programmable ignition if going up to this size of carburetor, as you won't see too much gain. My RE with romeu exhaust, airbox cutout, reads etc ran good with it and had more torque over standard but didn't see an extreme speed difference, however my piston rings were pretty gone and bike was low compression. Original jetting the carb came with was well out and the needle was wrong, took me alot of time and money setting it up to work with the DT, happy to pass on the current good basepoint for it if anyone off here needed it
. Fuel consumption was extreme compared to standard carb too, with +1t on the front on long runs I would average 80mpg with some acceleration and cruising 60-70mph on standard carb with 250 main jet, however I'm guessing around 30mpg currently with the Polini.
Long story short, can't really get much better carburetor than standard without supporting mods ie programmable ignition
I have a pretty much brand new standard carburetor sitting in my shed off an 03 engine, this things done nothing and is a thing of beauty, was tempted to put it on my new engine but going for big power so keeping the Polini. Was gonna keep it as a backup but might be tempted to sell if a good offer came up, none of the bolts have ever been touched or undone, checked mixture screw and it's nice and free. Probably would want bowl and passageways cleaned which I would do but it's just too clean to touch haha.

@Jgb19830 I'm the same, I had access to an entire workshop with milling machines, large lathes etc, just not worth it for the wheels, they're too skinny anyways really.
Good luck anyways

I think I made a post about this, the later ones are the same as an MT 125. I bought the rims off a 2015 and attempted the rear first, spacing for disc and sprocket are well off, you'll need a hubcentric spacer for the sprocket for certain, good luck getting one made, I wouldn't trust using individual spacers and longer bolts. The rear axle is also tiny compared to the DT one, I machined an axle with a step up on one end acting as a spacer and also to allow the caliber bracket to fit on correctly, then I was going to make a step up collar/spacer for the other end. The axle worked and I had the bike rolling but I sacked the project off and bought DTX wheels cheap, there's no real way to mount the wheel correctly and safely without getting expensive components manufactured. The front wheel looked easy enough.
Long story short, sell them on and get some TDR or DTX rims mate.

@Calum apart from later 03+ engines, re etc...

Which is the 4bl engine again? Is that DTX/DTRE? I'm fitting an Ignitech to mine shortly so got a good cdi off an 04 which might be up for selling

Cheers guys, ordered from Performance Lab the other day, will update my build thread/make a new one with progress setting up this ignition and my PWK 32 carburetor on the new DTR engine shortly

I've been trying to get in contact with Ignitech directly to order a CDI for my DT build for a couple weeks now and haven't found anything, does anyone know of a UK Distributer for these units?
Cheers

Had good results with my Polini PWK 32, fits standard airbox and intake without mods, jetting was a bastard and I spent alot of money on jets and needles, but at least now I have a very good base point for someone with a lightly modded DTR to work from.

I've finally built up my DTR engine ready to drop in my old RE, I've pulled the RE engine and noticed the R stator has alot less cables, however it does have the two pin sealed plug which matches to the loom. Will the R engine still run through my RE loom and CDI? Im guessing alot of these other plugs are for neutral sensor and the electric start.
If my RE CDI cannot be used what are my best options? I would like a programmable ignition soon so maybe I could go down that route, but will I need an R loom or is the RE loom just an "advanced" version of the R with more features?
What a mine field...

@NINJA it's more the issue of sealing spoked rims mate, trials bikes use rim bands but I'm not too sure they'd be wide enough for stock DTR rims

@britshgigolo run a mouse if you don't mind the tyres fairly soft and replacement every year or so

@NINJA the branded slime definitely works, without any doubt what so ever. I've used it alot on mtbs and seen it repair even fairly large slits to s tube.

That slime stuff was the bollocks when I used to mountain bike, never tried in a motorbike but using the recommended amount in some mtb tubes I never had a puncture or even a pinch flat in over a year, it's more rolling weight but not excessive

Never managed to get a puncture on a road bike before, where are you riding and what's puncturing???
I only really ride country roads and towns
Throw some off-road wheels on with nobbys and heavy duty tubes that would sort it haha

@frazer-c that's good, yeah I plan to really, seems a nice find, but if anyone on here got stuck I'd be happy to sell cheap really, but it's not actively for sale

I've got a near enough brand new one, came on a very low mileage original dry stored unopened engine I bought. Nothing seized and slide doesnt have a scratch or anything, might be for sale at the right price if you have any bother. Happy to clean and re jet if required but I'd feel bad opening it for the first time haha.

Pick up a cap from the Scrappy, any car one with the same pressure will work aslong as it has the old style rad cap. You'll pay Penny's for it.

If you change the head gasket, skim your cylinder head cause it's likely warped.
This can be done easily at home, get a glass chopping board and put some 1000 grit sandpaper on it, rub the head around it in a figure of 8 motion. If the heads really bad I usually use a oil stone first. Repeat while adding water to the wet and dry paper until whole head surface is even and shiny. Torque the head down, run the bike up to temperature, and then torque it down once again.

I think I used to run a 25 pilot and 250 main on my original carburetor with romeu hendriques system and airbox snorkel removed, ran well.

@Calum I'll take a picture of the head I've got, it's stamped 3MB but it's the one with the ridged, I'll have a look at the book cheers
I planned on skimming the deck down at the end to create slightly higher compression than standard ideally

I've got a 2003 restricted 3mb head sitting around so thinking about experimenting on the lathe at home and trying to create an unrestricted, or maybe higher tuned head. Does anyone have some good references for head tuning or any tips? Also if anybody has good pictures of the unrestricted head or even better dimensions of each section that would really help, sadly my unrestricted heads on the bike right now and I won't be able to pull it for a couple months. I know some basics to try avoid detonation, such as a narrower squish section reducing chances etc, but I'm not too clued up about squish heights and compression amounts on the DTR.
Cheers

It's been a while, again
But my DT is finally out of hibernation properly and I've done some little bits, passed her MOT the other week with a couple advisories, but nothing major at all.
Over the winter I've been fitting and experimenting with a new Polini PWK 32mm carburetor, after lots and lots of tuning and jetting I've finally got her right, not perfect, but right for now!
The carburetor made a nice difference I found, revs up clean and seems to have more torque throughout the revs than standard, fit original intake system nice too.
I bought a cheap blowtorch, butane and some heat proof lacquer to blue the welds on my romeu exhaust and clean up some of the rough spots from the grit and grime of the UKs winter roads.
It took a long long time and nearly killed me with the fumes but it's looking good now! And I'm starting to be happy with the build, still after some decals for the bike but struggling to find someone who can do designs how I'd like, but I'll keep the search up.
I also just got an absolute bargain of a DTR engine, I think it's a 2003 but it is completely unsplit, none of the bolts had been touched (until I got to it ) and it came with a fresh original carb and servo. Took the cylinder off to free the rings, piston and bore look brilliant but rings are slightly out of spec at 19 thou so ordered an original set and Athena gaskets to bring it up to spec. This engine will be dropped in my bike over the next couple months, just got to steal the unrestricted head from my current engine and it should be good to drop in once built.
Got a 200 mile memorial run in a week and a half so trying to get some miles on the bike and iron out all carb issues etc, I'll keep updated on how it all goes.
Here's a pic of the toys currently

@declan don't mind them but big tolerances to allow for the temperature variations kinda suck for tuning, also the water cooled R version is just a different bike all together, proper race machine.

Don't bother with the air cooled 600, get the 650r water-cooled, road legal Dakar racer

@DanRacing will send you a message mate, also wise choice with the BMW, recently picked myself up an E36 325i, 6 cylinders sound is unbeatable

I'm more thinking of how resitrictive is this head in comparison to the other DT ones?

If you fancy doing some trickery to the ports on one of my DTR barrels I'd be happy to send out haha

Last weekend I got the Facebook marketplace steal of the year, a nearly brand new DTR engine with kickstart, carb, pv servo and a few other little goodies thrown in. Drove the 200 mile round trip to get it and was amazed what was under the dust, this things never been stripped or broken apart in any way, the carburetors litterally new and unseized too! Shame I've just got my Polini 32 working well.
I pulled the barrel off leaving the head intact to check ring gaps and head type, rings we're stuck from plug being out and slight moisture, but once freed the piston and bore looked brand new, no scores at all.
Ring gaps sitting at 19 thou, as far as I'm aware this is out of spec, what's the best rings out there to fit a standard bore Yamaha piston? And is there really a great power loss with the ridged cylinder head? (Think the engines an 03?) I could strip the unrestricted head off my old engine which is already skimmed but I don't really want to disturb the head gasket if there's not too much power loss?
Cheers

Alot of enduros are registered under power from factory, they can be riden on A2 however if police decide to Dyno you it can cause issues. My mates Beta 300rr came brand new registered at something like 11kw, and I have seen alot of the KTMs are the same. Some insurers ask for proof of restrictions with a2 bikes, most don't. It's on you wether you want to risk it or not, however the likelyhood, atleast in the UK, of being convicted seems fairly slim, I know alot of people riding 600s, KTM 690 unrestricted etc on A2 with no issues, but in the event of a crash you may not be paid out, but the same goes for not declaring modifications. Insurance nowerdays is a nightmare, it's up to you how you want to go about it all.

300mm dtx rotor and wr 426 twin piston nissin caliper and master cylinder works great on my DT. Had to make a bracket of course.

Clean your carb out so you've got a good base point to start from. Your idle screw should be between 1 and a half turns out and about 3 turns out when the engines hot. If it's running better at under 1 and a half turns out then you want to fit a richer pilot jet, higher than 3 turns stick a leaner in. If this is set right the bike should always require choke from cold start, which is correct procedure.

@Darty ah right cheers, I've had no issues so far on the standard float height the carb came with, what symptoms should I be looking for? Just a bog when holding bike wot for a while? Had bike flat out for a good minute or so in 6th and never seen any issues?

Finally getting somewhere with this carburetor, sorry for the wait, had a little incident with buying a car I definitely shouldn't of bought haha.
Was having severe spluttering with the DT all the way to main jet, the bike would literally barely run under load unless you were flat out. Narrowed this down to the needle and invested in a polini needle kit. Currently running a 140 main and 42 pilot, along with the standard N68E needle. The bike actually fouled it's plug after trying to startup again after a 5 mile ride, it was running allot worse in the 15 degrees weather we had compared to when I last played with it in around 5 degrees weather. I tried the leaner JJK needle and found it was bogging on big throttle inputs, so raised it a notch to find the bike had transformed. I just went a short 10 mile ride and the bike is a totally new beast, miles better than standard carb, loads of torque from idle. The only issue I'm finding now is a splutter at low throttle say 1/8th under, so I'm guessing the pilot is rich. However upon checking the new plug I fitted the bikes running abit lean, so tonight I fitted a JJN needle, which from what I can gather will give a leaner low end with richer mid and top, I've left it in the mid position for now. Once this weather clears up Abit and I'm back off work I'll give the bike another shot and post an update, but I'm finally glad to be getting somewhere with this bike, as it was proving a minefield a while ago.

This also is why I've been in active on here for like a month, bought myself an old E36 325i and spent 90% of my time underneath it or adding parts, I thought bikes were expensive to mod, but the beamer certainly takes the ticket haha

@Nottsbiker the yokes use a different bearing type on the top, and bottoms different taper too. Standard DT 125 uses ball bearings on the top compared to tapered rollers, also 400 stem is longer, takes some spacer work and a bearing cup but the swaps doable if you have a lathe.

@Nottsbiker are you referring to the front wheel or fork assembly mate?

Don't get fooled by the fancy transoils etc for bikes, a quality semi/full synth 5-40 or 10-40 will be fine, I tried all the oils like motul transoil in my DT when it had a clutch slip problem, in the end some left over 5-30 full synth Castrol made it twice as good feeling and got rid of the slip. I usually just use what's left over in the drum from my car oil changes, however I've just bought a old 6cyl 3 series so that takes magnatec oil, which I heard can cause issues in motorbike gearboxes so I might have to invest in oil for the DT next time

@Louis-James the axle is larger in the 400/426, the WR 200 wheels I bought use the same size axle as a DT, I actually ran them with the DT spacers on my standard forks for a while. Is this the same with yours?

@Louis-James I fit WR 426 forks but made my own custom axle to run the standard DTR/WR200 front hub sizes, the WR200 front disc was the same size as a standard nissin front brake system on a WR 426 so was a better wheel choice than changing calipers to use the smaller DTR wheel and disc combo

@Louis-James I'd be happy to sell the whole lot if you wanted, I have no use for the tyre as my DT is just in sm trim and should be staying that way

@Louis-James yeah there's some dualsport tyre on it right now, I'll try get a picture when I finish work in the morning, should get back to you sometime over the weekend if not though

I've got a set of wr 200 wheels at home, front ones nice, back not so much but still usable, let me know if you're interested at all cause I'm not going back to nobbys anymore with my DT.

@theportingmaster I'd be interested in taking that ported 125 barrel off your hands, do you have a price in mind? I've messaged Mick twice over the past couple months about getting my barrel rebored and ported by him and never received a reply...

I've used the cheap gasket kits off eBay on mine, they have all worked great apart from the head gasket, throw that straight in the bin.

@NINJA been running it on an iridium for a while now, bought the standards just for plug chopping

@NINJA I'll try a different plug and maybe go for a regular 15 minute run with varied rpm tomorrow to get a baseline, hadn't tried a new plug yet but bought a set of four BR8ES to play around with, I'm thinking of dropping the needle again to test but its a ballache with the split cables etc haha

@NINJA possible but I don't see a blanked out airbox causing issues, just a smooth run through a new filter.

Yeah that top bolt is missing, its been like that since the previous owner rebuilt it, I've got a bolt kit on order which hasn't arrived yet but I'm certain it doesn't leak, tried spraying isopropyl on it while revving etc in past

@NINJA pv is on the same settings it used to run on, cleaned and setup it all about a 1000 miles ago roughly so shouldn't be that.
Silver things a plug for the emmisions bottle that usually goes in the airbox

@NINJA not as far as I'm aware, no power jet on this carb and no leaks from any breathers, float height is good, both brass nossles either side of slide are breathers as far as I'm aware? I've just got the pipes open

Apologies for the state of the bike, I've not had the best of conditions or time the past few days I've been off work for testing.
I raised the needle one notch this morning, which seemed to help a lot with the throttle response, no bog when going from idle to wot
I also tried a step leaner pilot and main jet, upon riding around my drive it seemed to of made no difference to the spluttering issue I was having, so I then went up two sizes of pilot jet to see if it prefered the richer pilot, after about 50m up the road I went back home and swiftly removed it, spluttering worse than ever and barely wanting to run anything less than high rpms with wot
I then fitted the standard size pilot the bike came with, which is the smallest pilot jet I have and went for a ride. The bikes going allot better and seems fairly happy through most of the rpm, top end seems great and it's idling/cold starting nice. However I still have the spluttering issue under load, I've narrowed it down to roughly 1/8th throttle to about half throttle bad splutter, I'm guessing this is the crossover from the pilot to the needle jet? I'm unsure where to go from here, should I try lean off the needle again now I have a smaller pilot than before? The bike is practically unrideable through town behind cars doing 20-30mph, have to keep whipping the clutch in as it's spluttering so bad.

Got the carburetor on nicely yesterday, with heat the airbox went on well, cheers Calum!
Cutout the lid of my airbox completely and fitted a new air filter, it was butchered anyways.
Upon first start the caburetor was obviously way lean, would only run on choke and it sounded crackely, so swiftly shut it off and fitted one of the mid range pilots I had and removed the main jet, as to your guide Calum.
Bike ran nice, could adjust the pilot circuit nice and it seemed to have a sweet spot with the screw fairly far out. Bike would splutter badly when going full throttle, obviously due to the main jet being removed, but up to 3/4 seemed to rev nice so didn't touch the needle yet. Fitted the 142 main jet out of my kit, which was alot bigger than standard, think the second size up from my kit, bike ran nicely up to temperature on the spot, revved fairly clean but has a bog when pulling throttle wide open from idle, I know this is likely the main jet being lean but I didn't want to change it until I have the needle and pilot correct.
Went for a 5 mile run into town for some petrol, bike splutters and ran crackely up to about quarter throttle when riding the bike at a constant rpm, seemed to smooth out past that, so I'm guessing pilot is still lean?
However it also had similar symptoms while accelerating until higher rpms, once onto the main and the ypvs opened the bike went awesome, bags of power and sounded very crisp, however i didn't ring it out too much. Temperatures are staying good while riding.
I'm thinking tomorrow I will raise the needle a notch and swap out to the next size up pilot jet and try another test ride, I've got the next couple days off work to play about with this, and this carb is brilliant to work on.

Something like this would do the job, you'll have pleanty spare at 100cm, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-M10-M12-1-0mm-FINE-PITCH-Threaded-Bar-Rod-Studding-Full-Nuts-Washers/292737174175?var=&hash=item44287eca9f
Just select M8 diameter as it fits the drilled axles rear axle nicely. You might want to check the diameter of the drilled part of your front axles mind, I don't have standard forks and axle so it may be slightly narrower and need drilled out for the bar to work.
Also you'll probably get the threaded bar and nuts allot cheaper from a local firm, I think I only paid a couple quid if that.

@NINJA only by about 19mm

@NINJA yeah weight reduction, there's Abit of slop in the wheels when you corner hard mind...

@jakeyboy I have, a meter of M8 threaded barrel and 4 nylock nuts - £2
Some old skateboard wheels from a colleague - free
Don't have any close up photos but they do the job and look reasonable I'd say

Throw a piston in it and if the bottom end has no play you'll be fine. You'll want to/already bought another green laning bike well before you have any engine issues haha

@NINJA my DT is an 04 so it's in that age range where it's not modern or classic, but I do have great fun on it

It's worth what you wanna pay, in the end if you're like me you'll be throwing your wages at a perfectly running bike whatever happens, I'd hate to know how much money I've got into my DT over the past couple years, I'm betting I'd struggle to return half of it!

@Calum I'll take another look tomorrow too see how bad it is, can't remember too much over memory haha, if it's bad I'll get on fowlers

@Calum ah right I'll give that a shot tomorrow aswell then! My boot has slight splits about a couple mm long on the end where it clamps on the carb, and the outer is about the same size as the actual carb inlet haha

@NINJA it was on sale for about £110 on Racing Planet mate, and I think about £20 worth of Jets ontop of that, bargain I'd say

@stinkwheeler will do mate, sadly doesn't seem as if anyone has tried this carburetor, or at least nobody has wrote about the process online. Shame really as there is a lot of great budget options with the PWK carburetor. I was recommended to use them by 2Stroke stuffing and BARacing. Only problem I'm finding so far is the standard airbox boot is too small for the carb, so I'm looking at buying some hose and making something up so that I can still use the standard airbox.

It's winter again, which means my DT is spread across the workshop.
Going for some more power for next season, plans are 32mm carb, some porting work, fresh piston and zeeltronic cdi
My box of goodies arrived today meaning I can start work

32mm Polini reworked PWK carburetor and some Jets to play with

I'm really happy with how this carburetor is built, one of the best I have seen in person and I've tried new Mikunis etc


Even managed to fit the carb in the standard DT rubber without any modification! Although it was very tight.

While I had the carb off I decided it was time to fit the carbon fiber reeds I've had laying around for over a year, doubt they make much of a difference but wont do any harm

I got the carb in and the bike runs happily on choke, although it does sound lean to me, which I expected. It won't run at all off choke but will be swapping out the pilot jet after work tomorrow for more experimentation

@DanRacing yeah man, it's glynnbeard

@DanRacing if you find anyone that can do custom graphics incorporating chrome wrap let me know, been looking for over a year now!

I don't think the kips system sounds at all like the ypvs on a DT personally, the main thing that put me off a kmx was the whiny sound they make, but that's just my opinion. I've got a couple reasonable sounding videos on my YouTube where you can hear the engine quite well on my DT, will link later if I get a chance

@Bluestoesonnose front hub is different, rear is the same. The dtx front hub has the bigger disc mounting holes and the left side spacer is different if I remember right.

@NINJA crikey, think it's time to scrap my winter tuning project and get it sold

@NINJA I'll have a look when I'm next in the shed and let you know mate

@NINJA I could be interested if the shorter slave would work on a DT, let me know if you decide to sell the full unit at some point mate

@NINJA damn I'm jealous, been after one of them for ages!

@NINJA amazing tyres in the dry, super confidence inspiring compared to the shitty pilot streets I had. Just avoid getting caught out in the wet as they do get sketchy.

@NINJA yeah I have to admit, fitting conti attack tyres in autumn was not my wisest decision haha

@NINJA Yeah that's me on the DT haha

Merry Christmas to everyone here, hope you all get The bike parts you asked for from Santa
I heard he would be doing the rounds Abit quicker this year

Bonus points for Christmas related bike pics

I asked a couple police officers about pushing motorbikes when I was younger and wasn't old enough to road ride, if fuel supply is turned off you are allowed to push them on on pathways etc

@DanRacing I have a 2003 beta rr 50 supermotard and it weighs nothing compared to my DT haha, although the DT is allot nicer cruising engine

@DanRacing looks a sweet build, I can imagine the DT engine to be perfect for a light frame like a 50cc, nice torque and good cruising

They do this mod to kmx 125s, dunno if I really agree with it mind as the standard DT suspension is still likely better.

@Calum I remember someone around my area was killed on a similar road legal quad when I was younger, pretty sure a weld on the suspension snapped bucking him off and under a car following round a corner. Quads really aren't my thing

@Calum depends on the brand, I had a cheap PY90 I bought off a mate for next to nothing to clean up and sell. Chrome and metals weren't great but hammered the hell out of that 90cc Honda copy engine and it never gave any hurt, then sold for a profit.

Looks a very good bike for the money, I wouldn't write off China nowerdays, the stigma I'd generally from the way owners treat them, and this is clearly built miles better than the likes of lexmoto. Might prove to be an awesome trail/adventure bike

Had the same problem with my RE, found a spacer about 1-2inch long behind the silencer bracket brought it out enough not to melt number plate and gave the bike a better look filling out the fairing

Definitely not stock if you have one of the carbs running 210 main in the UK, I run a 250 with pipe, emmissions stuff removed and airbox cutout extended, 240 should be fine standard

Romeu pipe is awesome, mines been through a lot and still strong. As for power can't really compare with Dep as I haven't rode with one, but bags of power in the top end and enough in the low end, you won't have any revving problems if it's jetted to the pipe as they absolutely scream

@Calum WR200 wheels fit and are a nice upgrade, front disc is bigger so you require the nissin caliper mind

@Calum there is a very noticeable difference in cornering on sm wheels also, and I'm in no way an experienced road rider. Basically no dive under heavy braking also, so much more stability, not that I found my RE forks too bad.

USD fork conversion with adjustable yzf 426 forks was the best mod I ever done to my DT

@2stroketerry how much you looking for

@2stroketerry 18t might suck a little, 17 work good on my standard bore and pulls well over top of the clock

Cheers guys, they're skateboard wheels held with M8 threaded bar and nylock nuts haha

Has the life we all dream of and throws it away to because he cants stand being beaten. Boy what I'd do to have rich parents to buy me into racing

@Calum my apologies, didn't read the replies before posting haha, I've always just used a spanner and left all tank etc on.

Have to use a spanner for the spark plug I'm afraid, if I remember right a 21mm?

@MadGyver have you checked the engine numbers against the logbook? Could of had a new engine unit at some point?
If not that millage is insane for a 2t, guessing it was still factory restricted?

@Calum iPhone 5s mate, shocking camera when it came out, worse God knows how many years later. New phones aren't at the top of my priorities either haha

@NINJA will have a look over this week and see what I can do mate, phone camera is awful though haha

@NINJA haha yeah had a build thread for when I done my USD conversion etc, a lot has changed since then and done some extra little mods and got some super sticky Conti attack SM tyres fitted
Got some more plans for this winter if I keep the bike so should be more to come

@NINJA got the Romeu hendriques upright MX type currently mate, it's a nice pipe

@NINJA yeah I didn't know the clever side to it haha, I just try polish ever couple rides to keep her shiny

I wouldn't spend too long polishing, mine seems to bake an orange tint and blue at the cylinder end after a good thrashing! Looks awesome, really want an underslung now

@ryanjimccfc do a plug chop and find out which way you need to go and by how much. Haven't heard of anyone with that setup and impossible to tell without knowing your location, climate etc

Impressive work mate, you're gonna have to sell it to me when it's done

For a true reading get engine hot, swap a new correct rated plug in, start engine, straight away accelerate flat out up until 6th and ring it right to redline then kill the engine and coast to a stop. Pull the plug out and either turn the threads off the plug in a lathe or hacksaw the outer threads off to see the insulator insides colour.

@ryanjimccfc just saying you should possibly look elsewhere, sounds as if there's a problem in the cooling system to me

@Minia no I did mean A1 licence, I'm 19 now so looking to do my A2 anyways

@Calum reckon you could do the a1 test without lessons? My mate recently done it and spend about £800 including lessons

I've got a very rusty old pile of scrap for a rebuild project this winter which might interest you lot

Pretty sure they're an emissions system on the later DTs, I'd block it off to be honest or change to a different exhaust system, doesn't help the engine in any way.

@me0u01c1 that's weird yeah, maybe worth trying premix and keeping any eye on the temperature of the engine? Ofcourse run the premix rich and check for any lean mixture or air leaks first mind. Just thinking of quick fixes to get you on the road for now, the damage has been done, aslong as its got compression it should still ride until you want to rebuild.

May sound stupid, but are you sure the 2T oil tank is filled, I've heard of people getting confused and filling the expansion bottle for the coolant with oil!
Never heard of one of these pumps failing

Skim the head and barrel before you leave, it's the one thing that WILL let you down on a DTR, even if it's not visibly warped it will leak from the gasket, the surfaces need to be absolutely perfect.

Hi everyone, just back from a brilliant day of racing on twisties up a mountain pass, DT performed brilliantly and for the first time I could 100% tell the massive difference the USD conversion has made to the bike, no dive under braking and very planted through the corners, the little DT screaming down the pass was keeping up with a Ducati multistrada, although it was completely left on the straights haha.
Im having a problem with tyre sizes and profiles right now, currently I just threw any old tyre on the rear as I needed the bike going for summer, and havent had the money to change it yet. Currently ive got a nice Conti Attack SM 120 tyre on the front, very aggressive profile and feels brilliant in the corners, but the rear is massively letting me down. Its got a pretty much squared off Pilot Street 130 tyre, the profile is definitely too narrow for the rim and ive got pleanty space between the swingarm, it doesnt have much curvature, or atleast none compared to the front tyre, and its making the bike difficult to lean.

What tyres and sizes do people run on these things? id like to order a new Conti Attack SM 150 tyre for the rear as id say itll match the profile of the front well, but maybe this is too wide for the standard DTX/WRX 125 rims as I think the rear is 3.50?
Whats everyones opinion,
Cheers

@admiral323 yeah sounds a similar climate, ofcourse jetting is dependent on many factors, but generally I've found the standard DT jetting, especially on late models were way lean.

JT sprockets do the job, and I'm very pleased with my Renthal R1 428 chain, about £30 and not O ring, just keep it cleaned and lubed every couple long rides and it'll do you well.

Never seen that happen, bearing looks ruined. Triples should literally just fall out with lock nut off

If anyone finds a good company for producing stickers I'd happily put an order in for a few, if we all pre ordered before the distributer puts an order in they would not end up out of pocket.

I've got a full bled unit off my RE if you're interested? Fresh pads and in reasonable condition

It's about the rider in the woods, seen 85cc bikes keep up with 250s in the past. I used to trail ride a lot on my trials bikes with friends on 250mx and enduros, trials bike max speed was about 45-50mph but would obliterate the MX bikes in tight sections.
The past year I trail rode my standard DTRE and it was happy enough keeping up with most MX bikes in the trails, it's a totally different ball park than road riding, power isn't so necessary and DTs are great for hill climbs.

So what's the actual effects of these inner rotas? Never heard much about them

@ninja

@ninja if I had the time space and money
Barely have time to maintain the Dt for social rides right now, lucky she's bulletproof and doesn't mind a hammering haha

I'm tooo tempted to sell up my Dt for a TDR 125 to build up with usd forks etc, been thinking about it so much recently but can't justify selling my Dt after building it all winter and only doing 2.5k miles on it
Nice bike mate

@bananper I considered replacing mine when I got the bike just to be safe but upon research every said they were bombproof haha, I know atleast for the past two years of regular research on DT pages and forums I've never seen someone come up with a problem. If you're really worried you could rebuild the pump, fit clear lines for the oil and bleed the system, then you'll know it's reliable and be able to monitor it.

Never heard of a Dt oil pump fail and you can adjust them for more/less oil mix so dunno why you'd want to remove it if I'm honest.

Would rather a standard bore than a 170 if I'm honest, get it ported and I'm doubting itd be far off the Athena. Or if you're feeling the bigger cc kits splash out for a BARacing 200kit and really feel the power

Interested in doing a similar thing with the woodruff key on my 125 bore Dt, wonder how big the affects of 4 degree advance are? Much loss in engine life also?

Don't liquid metal it mate, if you want to sort it get it tig welded, won't cost much and easy job

@oldman you could easily make a nice looking little knurled trip knob out of some aluminium on a lathe?
Might look pretty trick

Id go a fair bit bigger idle jet than a 25, im running a 27.5 pilot on 125 bore with snorkel removed here in sunny scotland, id imagine the 170 kit would require a fair bit bigger pilot especially in your climate, maybe a 30?

The WR 426 fork swap I done wasnt too bad, itd be even easier using a WR 426 wheel or hub aswell, also if you got SM rims laced to a WR 426 front hub you could use standard WR axle, caliper and just buy a 320mm caliper adapter to suit the full size SM disc. I was too cheap for this so made my own axle and caliper bracket to run standard DTX wheel, speedo drive and get the 426 caliper to work on the 300mm DTX disc haha.

@ninja to be honest mate I figured we were all around the same age range haha, but there again with age comes knowledge, the reason I come to this site is for how much all you guys know about these bikes and other similar models, I learn something new on here every day and it's great hearing about some of you guys experiences, the only forum I regularly visit

@calum how old are you now Calum? Not to be rude at all haha
I had a feeling you were mid 20s lol

I really want to build up a TDR in a similar way to my Dt, but I can't make myself sell the DT

My wossner was absolutely silent when I first rebuild the Dt, had a barrel bored to match the piston at the recommended tolerances from wossner. Hundred miles on it started getting rattley, it's now pretty piston slappy at the top end but checked 1000 miles on when headgasket went and piston and ring tolerances were perfect haha, makes great power and starts good so I'm not worried, never heard a good running two stroke any better really, it's when they're silent you need to worry haha.

@irongamer727 oho don't get my started on K.H.C Pistons, one big mistake was made when putting one in my gas gas, piston rings didn't actually fit the grooves, like at all, and this was a matching set. Rings are made of what must literally be the most brittle type of chinesium. Pretty sure the skirt snapped on the next owner too as he sold it shortly after showing cases of an extremely damaged nikasil bore. Since then I will never buy anything other than a wossner or wiseco, what a mistake that £20 piston was...

@declan yeah mate it's abit annoying, I know speeds by ear at 60 in 6th and 30 in 5th so it's not too bad, I only hobby ride it anyway so not needed it since Sunday. Tig welded the ring today so will try it tonight

Trick looking bike, nice find. Rare bike I'd imagine, never actually seen one before but specs seem very promising. They make a 125 version similar size to the Honda grom don't they? Seen one for sale a while ago and specs were way better than the grom at a cheaper price haha

Sounds very unusual, my DT was abit less stable with skiny tyres on enduro wheels, but with the SM wheels I can pull well off the clock in 6th then whip the clutch in and coast without any wobble. Check tyres and wheel bearings are good, maybe you head bearings need tightened aswell?

@declan looks Alot nicer than the one I bought mate, nice choice and glad it's worked out

They seem good quality, my mate has one on an mt 125, sounds good without db killer for about half an hour then just annoying. But as does any 125 4t with aftermarket exhaust.

@calum oh Christ sorry mate, I was looking all over Google and didn't realise it was on here, my bad

Hi, does anyone have that picture of the caliper adapter to run the DTX wheels on a standard DTR with DTR forks and the twin piston DTX calliper? I've looked everywhere and can't find it
It's not for me but for a mate, would be greatly appreciated if someone could send it

Cheers
Glynn

@oldman asbestos exhaust wrap, very good stuff

Line the underside of your tank with heatproof asbestos or similar exhaust wrap if your worried, I done this to my water expansion tank as it touched my silencer, but really I wouldn't worry.

I'm running the 47t rear sprocket off the 18" offroad wheel, on my supermoto wheels so gearing will have dropped a fair bit. It's meant to be a 44t on the Supermoto rims if I remember right, not rode it properly yet but seems a little rocket in first and second, if it'll cruise happily at 55-60 then I'll leave the gearing

Plates sticking is very common if a bikes been sitting, put it in 6th with engine off and rock the bike back and forward with clutch out, if that doesn't work just ride it around changing gear and holding clutch fully in the whole time for a while, will unstick in no time, happens on my trials bike nearly every ride.

@calum yeah, basically my problem was starting the build too late in the winter, by the time I faffed about and got the forks done it was the end of January, my plans to have the bike on the road mid March and with the amount of manufacturing left to get the r125 wheels working, along with only being able to work on nights meant this likely wouldn't happen, and I am eager to have the bike on the road and well tested to do a memorial ride for a fallen rider early April.
I seen the bike which had used r125 wheels on here, looked like a very nice job, in fact it's on eBay right now with a couple days left and only at about £150
He used the older shape r125 wheels, which have different spacing and bigger outer bearing size, so I reckon a bigger bearing could be fitted to run the standard Dt axle. But basically the swap was a minefield of problems, and after doing the forks and many other bits on my bike I just wasn't in the mood for it this year, besides that the sm wheels I bought are in better condition and should be stronger.

Hi, I've recently got a set of DTX hubs laced to saxess supermoto rims, as I've fitted wr 426 forks onto my DT I will have to make a custom adapter to use the stock DTX front disc, however I can buy an adapter to run a 320mm disc...
I measured my DTX disc at 300mm, sadly not enough for the adapter to work

I wonder if there's any other bikes out there running the same stud spacing and pattern? Possibly Aprillias?

There's been abit of reconsideration with the build, the rear end was going to be a nightmare, disc was so much out of line that a hub centric spacer would be needed, and one I got the opertunity of a pair of Dt hubs laced onto almost immaculate saxess rims with tyres and discs for £100 I couldn't turn it down haha. Pulled the new Michellin pilot street off the R125 rear wheel and swapped it onto the sm wheels, since the rear was on the limit anyways.
Will be updating the build as it goes, likely in another thread.
Cheers Glynn

@calum I reckon I'll be doing the same on my build, need to make an adapter to use the standard wr 426 caliper on the 290mm r125 disc, sadly I can only buy an adapter for 270mm or 320mm discs

@calum I reckon a good aluminium axle could stand the force no problem due to how it's clamped, however I'd be abit happier having it out some nice steel so will probably do that. I could do some calculations to work out the force put on the axle where the bearings sit. But It wouldn't account for jumps etc so not really relatable. One thing I know mind is that it wouldn't be fun losing the back wheel haha

@calum should be pretty strong as its solid bar and the standard Dt is hollow, I made mine out of a high strength aluminium but I'm thinking of re making in steel once I've done my spacers.

Here's some pictures showing the axle comparison, aswell as my custom axle and the wheel mock fitted on the bike.
http://imgur.com/a/NLB31

@calum Sadly the new shape MT/R125 rims have a smaller bearing outer than the older models, the bearings are both the same size front and rear, which is alot smaller than the standard DT one. It's gonna be a nightmare to setup but I'm excited to see the result.

Hi again, back with another stupid idea that I'm trying to put into practice
Basically I'm building my Dt up from frame and engine this winter, YZ 426 forks and triples, MT 125 17" rims, bigger YZ calliper on the front etc. Front triples and forks are now ready to be put on since following the amazing Calums spacer guide (which was an absolute godsend). Just painting the triples before fitting it all together, but some super cheap MT wheels came up, literally a third of the price of wr sm wheels, and I think they will look more unique.
Here's the problems I've come across so far:
Rear axle is completely different, and way smaller than the standard hollow Dt axle. I've turned down my own custom axle to make the standard caliper work, also allowing the axle to sit correctly in the swingarm and be the correct length. A collar also needs to be made to go on the other end of the axle however.
Completely custom spacers need made on either side, and the brake disc will be completely out of line, and standard MT rear disc is actually slightly bigger and won't fit in the Dt caliper
However sprocket seems to be aligned perfectly when wheel is dead centre, but I will have to confirm this once I've made my spacers. This is all I've gathered so far for the rear wheel setup, I'll update this as I go along, I've not even considered the front axle yet as it'll be an absolute nightmare to do with the YZ forks

Long story short, do not attempt this conversion unless you have a lot of time, materials and access to a good lathe.
Even if you do have all this, don't be a tight arse like me and just buy the WR or DTX sm rims haha.

@calum my DT must spend a lot of time in reverse, went from 18k to 14k in a year

Hi, I'm currently rebuilding my DT 125 RE from the ground up, frames been powdercoated black and the plastics are black currently, I'm fitting wr 426 forks on it right now and then will strip it all down and send bits like triple clamps off for powdercoating. I'm completely stuck on colour schemes and graphics though. I was originally going with a Yamaha anniversary yellow theme and custom graphics from motocal, but now I'm starting to like red, and the new blue the MT etc has this year. Would be great if you lads could shoot me some ideas, doesn't need to be a DT or even an enduro style bike, just what bikes have a one off theme that you like?

Cheers
Glynn

Thanks so much Calum, doing a wr426 fork conversion right now and was having a hard time with it.

I love my romeu hendriques pipe, the bike revs very happy, but I wont say anything else as it always seems to cause controversy with dep fanboys in DT groups haha

I have the full hendriques system, my bikes stock apart from airbox snorkel removed, 250 main jet works well.

Will have a shot of it over this winter, got big plans for the old DT in the next few months so will report back

I was thinking about making and selling my own quality hydro clutch units at a cheap(ish) price a while ago but never found the time. I previously rode trials for a good few years and got myself used to extremely light hydraulic clutches with mini 1 finger levers, obviously when I bought the DT it was abit different haha. I thought about buying a used big piston AJP trials clutch master cylinder and a magura slave cylinder/cable puller and seeing how it would go on the bike, this would be ALOT cheaper than a full magura system if it worked well, id say max £100-120.

If its one of the chinese universal kits, ive been there and used it for a few rides, then had to ride home 6 or 7 miles with no clutch due to the slave seal going mid ride and pissing fluid everywhere. It was okay for the first few rides but not much lighter than a well oiled cable, the spring for the "unbreakable" levers snapped and the casting was absolutely awful. Invest that £15 in a cable oiler and some good cable lube.

Thatd be great if you got a chance sometime Calum, im guessing you used WR400 forks yourself?

Hi, I've just grabbed myself a real cheap set of WR 426f forks and front brake setup, still need to get triple clamps for it but looking to attempt to get it working on my DT. My DT currently has a wr200 front alloy wheel and I have an oversize disc which im 99% sure is the same size as the WR 426 front brake takes. My main problem, I have tackled many problems on bikes and could do anything engine related on the DT, but ive never tackled a fork swap, so im a little stumped on what im going to have to do. I have an old lathe and many other manufacturing tools, so I can make spacers etc if necessary. Anyone ever attempted this swap? if so help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!
Glynn