Hi guys, sorry for the really late reply, there was an unbelievable difference from changing the pipe and upsetting my main to 250, the bike pulls very strong through low end and has a big kick at high revs, it also absolutely screams way higher than my old stock expansion chamber with dep end can. Here's a video I took a while ago of a quick acceleration with the pipe, although it doesn't have quite the kick it has now that I've put my boost bottle back on, I had it off for a while to see if there was a power change.
The overall speed and power of the bike is about the same as my mates 2016 CRF 250x, both accelerate about the same and top out roughly the same, but the Dt suspension isn't quite as good
https://youtu.be/KQQ217FyGFE

Merry Christmas to everyone here, hope you all get The bike parts you asked for from Santa
I heard he would be doing the rounds Abit quicker this year

Bonus points for Christmas related bike pics

Went out for a solid 10 minutes to warm the bike up and check headlight wiring was correct, wasn't up for breaking an arm today

Hopefully it worked this time

It's been a while, again
But my DT is finally out of hibernation properly and I've done some little bits, passed her MOT the other week with a couple advisories, but nothing major at all.
Over the winter I've been fitting and experimenting with a new Polini PWK 32mm carburetor, after lots and lots of tuning and jetting I've finally got her right, not perfect, but right for now!
The carburetor made a nice difference I found, revs up clean and seems to have more torque throughout the revs than standard, fit original intake system nice too.
I bought a cheap blowtorch, butane and some heat proof lacquer to blue the welds on my romeu exhaust and clean up some of the rough spots from the grit and grime of the UKs winter roads.
It took a long long time and nearly killed me with the fumes but it's looking good now! And I'm starting to be happy with the build, still after some decals for the bike but struggling to find someone who can do designs how I'd like, but I'll keep the search up.
I also just got an absolute bargain of a DTR engine, I think it's a 2003 but it is completely unsplit, none of the bolts had been touched (until I got to it ) and it came with a fresh original carb and servo. Took the cylinder off to free the rings, piston and bore look brilliant but rings are slightly out of spec at 19 thou so ordered an original set and Athena gaskets to bring it up to spec. This engine will be dropped in my bike over the next couple months, just got to steal the unrestricted head from my current engine and it should be good to drop in once built.
Got a 200 mile memorial run in a week and a half so trying to get some miles on the bike and iron out all carb issues etc, I'll keep updated on how it all goes.
Here's a pic of the toys currently

I love my romeu hendriques pipe, the bike revs very happy, but I wont say anything else as it always seems to cause controversy with dep fanboys in DT groups haha

@Calum the ride homes a lot nicer than the ride there, even in summer 6-7am is cold at 60mph

@calum my DT must spend a lot of time in reverse, went from 18k to 14k in a year

Alot of enduros are registered under power from factory, they can be riden on A2 however if police decide to Dyno you it can cause issues. My mates Beta 300rr came brand new registered at something like 11kw, and I have seen alot of the KTMs are the same. Some insurers ask for proof of restrictions with a2 bikes, most don't. It's on you wether you want to risk it or not, however the likelyhood, atleast in the UK, of being convicted seems fairly slim, I know alot of people riding 600s, KTM 690 unrestricted etc on A2 with no issues, but in the event of a crash you may not be paid out, but the same goes for not declaring modifications. Insurance nowerdays is a nightmare, it's up to you how you want to go about it all.

@dylandt219 Calum’s right I’m afraid, carburettor is not the issue..
I’ve played around with the ignition timing through Ignitech DCCDIP2 aswell as carburettor and all sorts on my DT through the years. I recommend you work through what you’ve done and find the actual issue or limitation that’s holding the bike back, as even the standard 28mm can quite easily produce numbers on a mild ported 170 kit. If you’ve been messing with your timing through the zeeltronic put it back to a base map, fresh spark plug and check the spark is good, these units have had issues in the past and it’s not unknown for them to be duff out the factory. I would be more inclined to suggest an exhaust issue or timing related/spark problem than anything else, or if you’re still using the servo powered YPVS make sure you’ve not got it running backwards!
The carburettor should not be an issue unless you have jetted it absolutely wrong, but I think if that was the case you’d be having terrible running conditions all the time.

@4rw1n92 looks just like a regular DTR, a picture of the bike would be better help.
On another note I’d maybe delete those pictures as you’ve just given the internet all the individual codes for your frame and engine, so that could easily be re stamped on a stolen bike.

Cut the lid off and send it

@stevie-wonder I’ve had his MX style pipe on my RE for years, and I think even that I bought used, it’s awesome and took some abuse/dents over the years. That’s a sad ending to it all but can’t blame him, it’s bad enough trying to post items that big across the UK alone.

@louis-dt-wr I wish they had these back when I was doing my DT, OEM was expensiveeeee

@karumaspt I had this problem with my DTX SM wheels when I fitted USD forks. I’m almost certain you cannot get a 320mm disc with the same stud pattern and PCD as the DT hub unfortunately, the biggest I could find was the DTX/WRX disc which is 300mm if I remember right. You’ll have to make your own calliper spacer aswell as I don’t think anybody makes them off the shelf for this platform, but there is a drawing with dimensions that used to float around the forums and it’s not too difficult to make.

For reference I’m running about 1mm squish on my engine with programmable ignition, I was melting the tip of the standard range spark plug after a top gear hoon but I think I was a fair bit further advanced than standard on the top end, I’d maybe stick to 1.2-1.3mm, I’m sure that’s the standard figure but my Frankenstein engine with different barrel and head measured something crazy like 1.8mm as it was! So it’s worth checking..
also to note for the future, you don’t want to go any less than about 0.8mm squish on these engines as the Conrod stretch at high rpm will smack the head.

@dylandt219 asking for advice and replying in the way you have is childish and just makes you look like a tool mate, if you clearly don’t understand what you are doing I think the best advice anyone can give you now is take the bike to a mechanic. Everyone here is trying to be helpful but it’s clear you’ve already chosen the route you want to go down, so why even ask?
You can take the advice or alternatively spend £200+ on a big carb and have an even bigger steaming pile of shite that still goes 100km/h, you’ll learn either way

@dylandt219 Calum’s right I’m afraid, carburettor is not the issue..
I’ve played around with the ignition timing through Ignitech DCCDIP2 aswell as carburettor and all sorts on my DT through the years. I recommend you work through what you’ve done and find the actual issue or limitation that’s holding the bike back, as even the standard 28mm can quite easily produce numbers on a mild ported 170 kit. If you’ve been messing with your timing through the zeeltronic put it back to a base map, fresh spark plug and check the spark is good, these units have had issues in the past and it’s not unknown for them to be duff out the factory. I would be more inclined to suggest an exhaust issue or timing related/spark problem than anything else, or if you’re still using the servo powered YPVS make sure you’ve not got it running backwards!
The carburettor should not be an issue unless you have jetted it absolutely wrong, but I think if that was the case you’d be having terrible running conditions all the time.

@goprokid95 where abouts are you? Stator rewinding is a professional job and usually costs more than just buying a new part, companies such as electrical motor manufacturers do it. If you’re in the UK I have a good DTRE bottom end I could possible sell the stator off if I got the time to strip it.

@calum yeah I’d agree mate, even when I fitted and setup my 32mm I wasn’t all that convinced it made a huge difference, and massively reduced mpg haha. But ofcourse the benefits come with the other changes that were made, but if I’m honest the standard carb on these bikes is a cracker when it’s setup right.