Not familiar with a 1994 DT175 (I presume this is from the Asia (Far East) market). The oil light will just be for the two stroke. There are no sensors that do gearbox, the most you get is a Neutral Light sensor (if you're lucky). For the gearbox oil, the only sensors you see are with your eye balls and the oil sight glass. I can't 100% say this is the case, but I say it with high confidence that this will be the case. Hopefully that's useful. Calum

Cheers @beng1968 . I must admit, I bought 2 more Athena kits sometime after this post was made and can't concur with the opinions here. The casting was spot on and it was very good value for money. Considering it comes with everything you'd need to bolt it onto your engine, I'd say it's good value. I will agree it's not YZ rip roaring performance from stock, and considering the extent of tuning on my DTR, it's still nothing compared to a stock Aprilia RS 125. However, it's not without its merits. The extra CCs give a nice broader range of power, which as I've gotten older I've come to appreciate more (I'm no longer 75kgs wet ). I did take my cylinder to Mick Abbey for further porting and there is still more porting work that I need to do on my setup. It should be a decent bit of kit, when setup properly. The first experience I had was when I loaned my brothers 2001 DTR back in 2010, he'd fitted the Athena kit amongst various other mods, and that went very well. At the time, I went all in on a ported 3MB00P cylinder from the TZR Belgarda and that setup definitely served me well. I haven't been on my DTR for several years now and I am eager to fire it up again to rejudge my opinion.

Yes your DT will be autolube. If it wasn't... you'd have known by now. You'll need to keep an on eye on the two stroke level and refill it as it gets depleted.

No you don't need to open up the engine all the way. It's just a push rod system, if the clutch cam isn't engaging with the push rod then it might be because the push rod has fallen beneath the cam arm so you're not able to position the cam behind the push rod. I've never had this happen to me personally, I don't recall this being an issue, but the design is very simple so there is very little to go wrong. What commonly happens is that the ball bearing inside the engine can get misplaced, which presents itself in a similar manner as you're describing. But this is not possible without dismantling the engine. In essence what you have can be pictured as below: |_._ The | is the cam that you slot from the top of the engine. When the cable is pulled, it twists the cam which acts on the first pushrod denoted here by _. This is space separated with a ball bearing, denoted by . which pushes a further push rod denoted by _. What might be possible is that you've ended up in situation where you've pulled the cam out and now the setup is like: | _._ The cam is now resting on top of the push rod and is no longer engaged with it. So when you pull the lever, nothing happens. I can't remember whether this is even possible, but if it is then you'll notice the cam is sitting a lot higher outside the engine and would be obvious. I am not sure if the pushrods are under load, but if they're not, then leaning the bike over towards the clutch may cause the rods/ball to move allowing the cam to be lowered appropriately. If that doesn't work, then no it's not a full dismantlement. It's just a case of taking the clutch cover off, and taking the clutch pressure plate off to expose the push rods. Extracting them (by leaning the bike over careful not to misplace the ball bearing) and then inserting the cam in first. BUT I REALLY don't think that's what is happening here. It's probably more likely that the clutch just needs adjusting. I'd recommend referring to the Haynes manual for this.