I think the gauge is pretty useless. My barrel heat seized before it ever reached the red! If it’s not giving usable information it’s no good. I can’t remember exactly but I think the thermostat opens about 65* so that should be the ‘normal’ point on the gauge (dead centre) 85* should be ‘high green’ and 100* should be entering red… It’d be easy enough to change the needle position using a potentiometer (variable resistor) Once it’s in the proper place read it with a multimeter and solder in the relevant resistor to adjust… You’d have to do it ‘out of the bike’ though. Put the temp sensor into a bowl of water heated to the relevant temp (use a thermometer) of 65, 85 & 100 and adjust the needle till you’re happy. You’d have to remove the rev counter gauge and make a curcuit with a 12v battery…

Hi guys had mot today Put a brand new plug in and ripped it to mot and back got 72.1mph on gps so pretty good! But wasn’t fully pinned, got home and thought I’d Chuck the plug after a 4 mile ride What you think? [image: 53181255804_d9fa1516b5_b_d.jpg]

@SpookDog Hi mate yes I’ve done it on this bike I’ve got now, it’s a dtre engine in a Dtr frame, it’s really simple. @Calum did a post about it and what you need! Here you go https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/13/kick-start-conversion-dtre

Thanks to all the help offered i solved the issue it was the cables not turning the valve the right way it was closing instead of oppening , tomorrow im gonna do a topspeed test thinking of hitting atleast 120-30 kmh

I think the main thing are the piston rings bedding in. I haven't worried about it too much. 50 miles if it's just a top end. But I am quite happy to rebuild the engine prematurely.

@89dt125nick Drain the coolant properly before and when you take off the head take some pics. You want to see where it was leaking from the coolant jacket into the bore. Also look for the root cause, head gaskets don’t usually blow unless there are overheating issues, or (in my case) misfire problems… Buy a price of plate glass10mm x 30cm x30cm to lap the head clean and smooth… Don’t buy a shitty head gasket, get an Athena, Vertex or genuine head gasket…

Part 1 on the first link and an o ring needed. Joint 10v-12446-00 Thanks mate

@DTR-NSR Yep, I’m definitely leaning towards the 3bond

Hi guys I’ve got a 3BP bottom end, does anyone know what year it is and what crank stroke does it have? As want to run a 3MB barrel thanks!

Old thread alert, but! My servo was doing this when I used inferior 2stroke oil and the power valve was gummed up and sticky. As soon as I cleaned of the varnish/gumpf it operated sweet and smooth…

Did you get anywhere with the bigger single radiator?

@SpookDog Probably get a better response on the FaceAche forums.

Lanze airbox snorkel gotta try and find also suppose be a nice mod

@SpookDog sorry for late reply all in with post was around £20 I think

[image: 1669066394238-4bbcebcb-80d6-4e56-adcf-f0221c831cfc-image.png] .....Yz is totally different kick start to DTR gear shift is the same

Just make sure that it’s in there nice and squarely. Also that the ‘insert’ has a good clean finish with no bad grooves or crud buildup on it Did you split and rebuild the cases or just replace the seals? (both)... Just use a proper clutch holder to tighten (or loosen) the clutch centre nut, don’t stick a screwdriver in the outer basket ‘fingers’! The alloy snaps so easy and without warning!...

@MadGyver I have the 3BN head on a 16.9 KW bike

I know it’s an old thread, but: It’s the barrel that gets grooved, not the head (I thought it was head as well) and it is £35 @ PJME according to the email they sent me