@SpookDog I managed to get it out with a glow plug magnet luckily it was just in the shaft didn't have to split the case thank god

@SpookDog Hi mate, I sold it on friday, it went straight away, both i and the buyer were happy with the price so a fair deal for the work it will need.

@marcusalcock

Yeah. There’s steel bushes inside the bearings. The bolt will rust to them if not well greased on fitting. You could try putting a lot of hot water through the centre hole of the bolt but I doubt it’ll get enough heat to where it needs to be...

Big hammer, big clean blows 👍 maybe put a sacrificial nut on the end of the thread for extra protection...

@SpookDog

Ahh I got ya! Yeah I’ve always tried to go genuine, just seeing if I could save a bit of money as I got 3 vehicles as it is and I’m trying to save up for a house lol

Ok mate thank you, When I get my mate to make something I’ll upload a picture of the finished result.

Yeah hopefully it’s just what I’m hoping it could be in my message back to Calum lol

@89dt125nick

You can get a servo to bolt on easy enough. I did it with my bike and it makes all the difference, low end usibility and power at 7000rpm..

It has to be the 3 wire version for 88- 90 something bikes though...

They are usually expensive but if you keep looking they do turn up. I just brought an good useable, original 3mb barrel, piston, power valve, pristine 3mb head and 3 wire servo with cables, rubber cover and pulley & housing for £130! 🤪

@spookdog The pump on the later engines just come straight off? Leaving the spline intact, but no dramas about that. Although I did remove that as well and just created a blanking plate.

@spookdog

Ah yes that’s the one ! 👌

@calum I will definitely recheck that next time i´m working on the bike but as far as i remember these bushings only had some slight axial play and no mentionable radial play as seen in the video.

@spookdog gaskets are all fine and bikes holding compression and wants to run. Managed to take her out for a local ride yesterday with a fresh plug in to see what the plug looks like. If memory serves me right I haven’t got all the tools I need to get the flywheel and stator off so I was hoping

It’s weird though because I’d have thought that if I had an air leak the bike would run extremely lean and get hot? Because not once did the bike ever get warm

Whilst riding the symptoms where the same as before
-really high idle (it sometimes died down a bit during the ride) I haven’t got a Rev gauge so I’m just guessing but majority of the time idle sat around 5k.
-only start on choke, it’d enter powerband (hits hard enough to still lift the front end too) but will start to splutter and struggle to fully Rev out (typical signs of not enough fuel).
-put the bike in gear and it’ll move without touching the throttle

None the less she still ran good enough for her to drink a tank of fuel and get home safe without a breakdown.
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I have to admit @SpookDog I have a very strong sense that it is that crank seal that’s gone, all the evidence is there + It’d be due something like crank seal since I’ve owned her a few years now since coming over from France and not once have I had to touch the engine.

Like I explained to my dad when he was making guesses at what’s wrong with it, “you can’t have a fire without air, so that bike won’t be to Rev any higher without air to allow it to do so since like a fire if you smother it with fuel to fast it won’t burn”. I could be wrong but that’s my logic.

Ps hope you’re doing well bud, how’s everything with life and the bikes and scoots?

@spookdog said in Crankcase Sealant; What's Everyone Using?:

Blue Hylomar

This was what was recommended to me and did nothing but leak. I've used it on several components and never had success. As I say, the bond stuff seems to be the goto kiddy everyone is using these days. I recently redone my DT engine with the Hondabond and it hasn't had a drop since.

@calum Yes I agree, running JASO FD spec Silkolene Comp2 Plus o I think it will be OK

@spookdog Just get a Lectron carb and there is only the main jet to worry about 🤣

Yeah I seriously don't know.

My answer is, jetting should be done accordingly.

@ninja yeah I did see that.

@calum hahaha fucking hell, i swear everything rotten from the 80’s/90’s era has been worth more then the scrap value of gold recently (looks to everything old school Ford/Vauxhall). Hell these days you could piss on a tire leave your machine outside for a month Chuck it back in the garage for a couple weeks with a tarpaulin over her then charge £5000 extra because it’s now a “barn find”

@waale2004
Check your plug colour. I’m guessing you are running rich with a wet black plug. Cause at 50:1 all your oil is being burnt/used. It can only be excess fuel...

@calum said in Messed up on my build need radiator advice:

@dan28 And the filler side is a lot thicker.

If it's thicker that's good it has a thicker core so will cool it better

@calum

I’m gonna have to check it out. My brand new Athena gasket, correctly torqued down, blew again ☹️ Did about 100miles. Weird thing is that the bike ran the best ever after it let go. Crisp rev definition, no bogging down. I’m gonna have to compression test the engine next time. What range is good/normal!?

@spookdog I always use Silkolene products, their Comp 2 plus is excellent oil. I also use their grease, coolants and gearbox oil. They are all excellent lubricants and are the go to brand for me.