@Calum I wanted some options in ratios, so that's why I didn't just order a complete kit - did some research and learned that following JT sprockets fit: Front - JTF 564 (for an example, JTF 564.13 is a 13 tooth 520 sprocket) Rear - JTR 853 (for an example, JTR 853.50 is a 50 tooth 520 sprocket) Thought this might be helpful.

Silkolene is a good shout

Yeah a blind bearing set would be cool, but a decent one is big bucks - and it's not an everyday job for me! Cheap tools are great if they work but will probably get someone to do it rather than take the risk. I even tried a rawl anchor on a diy sliding hammer and this just broke one of the collet parts off the bolt rather than move the bearing - this thing is stuck solid! Bloody thing is driving me potty!!!

You won't see the valve move in neutral mate. If it's doing the cleaning cycle then great. If you're finding it's not reving through the rev range then it's probably not turning the correct way. To check this, move the powervalve is its fully open and take the bike for a spin. If it pulls hard to the red line then it's not opening. I would say because the cabkes are the wrong way round. Hope that helps

I run semi synthetic castrol 5 30w. And that is because I couldn't find any fully synthetic. But I have never had gearbox issues on a tuned motor for many miles.

@DevonDtr Or join in with the banter

Thank you Darty! That would have been my first point of call!

@Biker_123 That I don't know. Provided the static angle is the same I don't see why not. The coils are there to generate electricity so there should be no reason for them not to work...If you can mount it

@Biker_123 Yeah it's the best way to learn mate. Get Stuck in. These engines are so simple mate. Few cogs and nuts and that's it. Yeah I know people who will do something similar. You'd be surprised what you can get away with to be honest. Sure it'll be down on power but that isn't a concern to some people.

Its rotating correct way, and does all its sequences smoothly. It almost feels like its squeezing, the throttle response goes dull for those few seconds. Carb wise, been reading up on getting settings right so thats sundays job

@dan28 Cheers buddy, but i've gotten it sorted now. Appreciate the offer. Found an m12 washer fits, however it is too wide so it has to be ground down. But I got a washer from my college which was off of another bike that fit

The TZ is the full GP race bike. I doubt you will need it. I buy wossner forged rods which come with big ends and you'd like to think they are good quality. I personally would say just get the normal one or OEM. Really rods and big ends should be replaced as a pair.

Done that, it lines up and goes through its sequence with no struggles. All cables are clean and it looks like a brand new pulley

@DevonDtr All very simple things you can do yourself....this is a forum and we can help you.

@Calum cheers man ! I put it before along with carbon reeds and it made a good difference in the bottom end , got it sealed and made a gasket out of gasket paper I had lying about , thanks for the reply !

Thanks @Calum

@Leftyno1 so no. The bike shouldn't consume that much oil. The oil pump is a sealed system and either you will need a new one. Or premix.

Thanks! very informative reply there I've never thought about it like! Yeah looks like I'll be riding differently now I'm mixing the fuel defo wouldn't want the engine seizing again happened before due to this oil pump so this seems the only way to go