@Biker_123 I would go wr all the way.

@LJK_hunter You'll need to file the power valve down mate! There's a few guides on YouTube it's really easy to do. Definitely don't use the bike until you've taken care of the power valve as the piston could hit it once it's heated up.

Gt it adjusted not, dont now what went wrong, i think the black part wasnt properly seated on the valve. Next problem is to sort out a rich condition. Bike starts ni problem without choke, and wont rev out. Makes more power if I close the throttle a bit. Midrange is crisp after lowering the needle. Bike has sat for a while, but it seems all pasages in carb is clear, and the choke is working as it should.

@kennymurphy97 it definitely gave it more compression as I could feel the bike vibrated quite a lot more. Was going to get a compression tester for a before and after but forgot all about it. I hadn't ridden the bike for a good week or so before changing the head though so can't accurately say if I felt a difference in power or not, although with more compression usually comes more power. I should be getting my new exhaust soon so I can make the most of it.

Cheers guys, managed to use the torque wrench on all but 2, guess work with the one closest to the front part of the frame and the one next to the thermostat housing

@Calum haha yeah rocking a VM26SS, Yam cutting corners there

Sell the rod kits on Pjme just looked pal and yeah have typed them bearings in is it just them ones and the mains I need

WHat number https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/epcImages/9028/9.jpg

@Calum off topic here don't suppose you know the bearing codes for the 4dl bottom end can't find them anywhere

I have always used this stuff and it hasn't let me down yet Castrol Power 1 2t, its usually £25 a liter but you can always find it cheaper on amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/Castrol-Power-Racing-Engine-Oil/dp/B004I5R35S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466763110&sr=8-1&keywords=power+1+2t

Yeah do it to spec mate. If you're filing them then you need to be using a Diamond file. They can be had fairly cheaply and last a long time

Its all apart now, plates were cleaned with paraffin and are soaking in the oil i will be using, they have loads of meat left on them so they should be fine, should i put the metal plates and ring in the oil as well? basket and cage are good, however the springs weren't, 2 mm below Haynes serviceable limit, will order a new set soon, when i removed it they were literally glued together, my fault really, should have disassembled and cleaned before putting in but i was just lazy. will keep you all updated

@Calum Just thought that not long after I asked hahaha, will get it adjusted again when I can! Thanks for the help

@Calum Thanks

Assuming you mean gearbox oil, I believe this comes recommended from an old forum post somewhere. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262216520076

How would I go about that then is there any videos or anything

@MIGHTYMAN Some of those hold cables away from harms way. So long as all your cables are routed properly they won't be missed.

Ah sorry, I only know basics when it comes to HTML! I'm VERY glad to say I finally got the clutch sorted and the issue was a combination of the three adjustment points, coupled with the fact that I didn't align the notch (or arrow as it mentions in the Haynes manual) on the clutch pressure plate with the notch on the clutch inner basket. This surprisingly was hard to identify as aligning the notches incorrectly only has a very subtle difference in the way the completed clutch looks. This video might help show the issue I was having. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esReZcXPxDY Notice that the clutch pressure plate wasn't actually making contact with the friction plates. I first thought I could be missing a friction plate? But soon looked up and found I did indeed have the correct amount. I then kept thinking it was the push rod adjustment being way out, but I was wrong