Removing the snorkel affects the jetting, so jet accordingly. It can also decrese the low end a bit, as theres not much velocity through the carb when you whack the throttle open at low speed.
IMO the airbox seems pretty restrictive, so removing the snorkel adds tons of air.
You can be both rich and lean, as in lean in the midrange, and rich on the mainjet, or the other way around.
Dont know if this is the right place...
Anyway, were a few guys maintaining a 3km track, which the landowner let us use.
Today we were out having some fun, after cutting grass and branches, so its ridable once again.
Heres a loop of the track: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlNRxvOw1jA
So, went out riding again.
This time with another Dt125 (with athena 170), wr200, and a girl on a xt550.
All yammies, and all of the burned oil 
Im really lacking behind in the editing part, but theres some descent footage, which I would like to think that most of you can enjoy.
Feel free to comment, subscribe ect.
The video is divided into 3 smaller videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qHe0tPELqg
Out having some fun with a friend, this is the first part. Video will follow with hillclimb ect
Skip around a bit, hope you enjoy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNhouw-UUgk
I've done my own on my xt600, youtube have plenty of guides. Theres not much to it. Just like changing tires and overhauling and engine, its all about technique...
You wont bend a rim by tightening the spokes. You can make it go out of round for sure, but not bend it permanently.
declan is talking abot putting the parts together, and pay for the last steps where its trued. Sounds like a good way to save money. Any good bicycleshop can true the wheels aswell
I have some china levers on my 1995 dt125r, looks and works really good. Had to slightly tweak one of 'em.
image url)
MX bikes runs way bigger piston to cylinder tolerances last time I compared 
Its easier to uninstall the cap when the forks are still mounted. Make sure to loosen the pinchbolts in the upper tripleclamb first.
And yes, the 102 sounds like 102mm from the top of the compressed fork (without spring installed) to the oil.
A frriend had to replace the right crank seal, he did it from the outside.
As fot cleaning the choke, as I said theres a passageway in the floatbowl, thats often overlooked when cleaning carbs, as people focuse on the main body. Im not talking about the choke plunger and where it mounts in the carb.
Just another thing to exclude
Yeah, most use 2% as a rule of thumb
I saw a chart on the auto-pump back in the days, as I recall it pumped out 3-4% af WOT, and way less just idling or at low throttle operations. Kinda shows you the beaty of the auto-pump.
Some info here: http://www.dansmc.com/2_stroke_oilpump.htm
Also, have a look at the reedvalves for broken or torn reeds.
Did you clean the choke passageway in the bowl?
Never had problem with non-original cables. I give them some light oil, and make sure to route them with a minimum amount of kinks. Often you can reroute them differently to get them even smooter.
But go eom if you feel like it
@DTR-NSR said in Hmm now what (A Rebore!):
Hard to tell in the pic but looks like the gudgeon pin circlip is missing? Unless you took it out before pic.
Yeah, and scratches on the side and dome of the piston right about at that point.
Good eyes.
Can HIGHLY recommend theese. You need an adaptorring for the stock headlight
The light will flicker a bit at low idling.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nighteye-H4-9003-HB2-8000LM-Car-LED-Headlight-Kit-Hi-Lo-Beam-Bulbs-6500K-White/391600374998?epid=907124270&hash=item5b2d3384d6%3Ag%3AqOYAAOSwlCdbGfEK&_sacat=0&_nkw=Nighteye+H4+9003+HB2+8000LM+Car+LED+Headlight+Kit+Hi%2FLo+Beam+Bulbs+6500K+White&LH_BIN=1&_from=R40&rt=nc
Adaptor:
Yes a 428 is lighter per link, but you also need more liks than a 520 because a 428 is smaller.
We've talked about the supersmall weight difference in another thread, so please, lets not go there again 
