Removing the snorkel affects the jetting, so jet accordingly. It can also decrese the low end a bit, as theres not much velocity through the carb when you whack the throttle open at low speed.
IMO the airbox seems pretty restrictive, so removing the snorkel adds tons of air.
You can be both rich and lean, as in lean in the midrange, and rich on the mainjet, or the other way around.
Dont know if this is the right place...
Anyway, were a few guys maintaining a 3km track, which the landowner let us use.
Today we were out having some fun, after cutting grass and branches, so its ridable once again.
Heres a loop of the track: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlNRxvOw1jA
So, went out riding again.
This time with another Dt125 (with athena 170), wr200, and a girl on a xt550.
All yammies, and all of the burned oil 
Im really lacking behind in the editing part, but theres some descent footage, which I would like to think that most of you can enjoy.
Feel free to comment, subscribe ect.
The video is divided into 3 smaller videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qHe0tPELqg
Out having some fun with a friend, this is the first part. Video will follow with hillclimb ect
Skip around a bit, hope you enjoy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNhouw-UUgk
I've done my own on my xt600, youtube have plenty of guides. Theres not much to it. Just like changing tires and overhauling and engine, its all about technique...
You wont bend a rim by tightening the spokes. You can make it go out of round for sure, but not bend it permanently.
declan is talking abot putting the parts together, and pay for the last steps where its trued. Sounds like a good way to save money. Any good bicycleshop can true the wheels aswell
Get a new float and floatneedle, should be part of just about any rebuildkit you can find.
The difference is so little that its not an issue in the real world on our bikes. But the theory is correct, and was a much bigger issue back in the day where people would go as big as 6% oil ratio for flattracking and roadracing.
If you do the math: 240 main jet, + 2 percent to compensate for the oil = 244.8 main jet. Temperature makes a bigger difference than that, and I dont see people changing jets several times a day because of that.
Normal, what is normal? Outside temps vary by 20c theese days where im located. You'll have a hard time to reach 70c at the cap in the morning just cruising around, and having a hard time not to exceed 110c at the head in the afternoon on a tight track. Some valid points to where you meassure, temps will read higher in the head, compared to on top of the radiator.
Waterless coolant boils at higher temps, but something like Evans actually remove less heat from the engine, so...whats the point of that? I've never heard of anyone damaging a radiater due to cooling preassure. 1,3 bar isnt normal running pressure, but maximum pressure, before the cap lifts and "bleeds of" the excess. If you're worried, buy a cap with less pressure.
Unless it boils, its fine. Bike is designed to function with 100c or more coolant, otherwise it wouldnt have a 1,3bar cap on. Everyday use should be less of that, ofcourse. But the thermostat isnt even fully open at 80C, come on people...
Unless something is off, its also just about impossible to get detonation in our bikes with super low compression. I've ridden mine on 20% diesel as part of a bet, no issues.
Theres always small exeptions for modified engines, which generate more power and heat, but that goes for any engine.
MX bikes runs way bigger piston to cylinder tolerances last time I compared 
I have some china levers on my 1995 dt125r, looks and works really good. Had to slightly tweak one of 'em.
image url)
34 here, with a pink 125cc.... I dont have a problem either 
Whats wrong with the motor? Have you inspected it?
My startermotor for my xt600 got a cleaning and new brushes at around 110.000km, its now at 172.000km, and still working fine.
Verify that the float height is correct
This is mine (no kit though), a bit of deposits from excess oil, but otherwise tan as Hasselhoff!!
Ifyoure missing the washer, that could very well be your main problem, please give it a shot!
When youre missing the washer, the carb will suck fuel around the mainjet aswell, making it very very rich.
Yeb, cold oil is thicker and "sticks" more, so the clutch stil drags a bit.
I have DID vx2 520 on mine. On a bike like the Dt, it will never go bad when looked after.
Well worth the peace of mind when im far from home, and for me, cheaper in the long run.
Worn out sprag clutch? Sounds like it started skipping, and now not gripping at all.
Cant see why you wouldt want to get better filtration...
Airfilter oil is pretty cheap, and the filter is made to flow this way.
Youd' be surprised how much crap it catches when you clean it.
Why not make adaptor/converter loom, between the cdi and the main loom, so you can connect everything up without molesting either part.
Forgot to add....I use the same ones (different colors tho') on my wr250r and my xt600. Most of the yammie dualsports use just about the same levers.
Found one on ebay that said 1,1 and listed as beeing for a dt125r
Almost looks like an yz125 from a distance, great looking bike bud!
Its not made to be rebuildable, some can do it anyway.
You might wanna look at the shocks from Yss:
Tuning/racing is expensive, and its hard to stop once you start, as everything is connected, just like Calum is explaining.
But its also pretty hard to do right. Some people have spent a fortune without getting anywhere, or ended up with a bike with a 200rpm powerband, or just no low end power
After you've removed all the stock restrictions, you have to start spending money. A new aftermarked expantionchamber can really help with the low end, and makes it more ridable when you get in to the gnarly stuff offroad.
I havent seen many weight loss threads, there should be plenty of "meat" to remove from this bike. Lossing 5-10kg from the bike would be great. Removing the clocks and the huge light would help with a lot of weight up high on the bike. Replace it with an enduro light mask and an universal speedometer like trailtech vapor.
Replacing the battery with a capacitor is just about free aswell.
Also, servicing or upgrading the suspention is overlooked almost everytime.
Tuning isnt just about getting more hp. Its about making the bike handle better , and making it more rideable aswell.
Sorry if that got at little off topic.
The Xt600 is very good dualsport, which can be ridden in gnarlier stuff than you would imagine.
I have ridden 120.000km on mine, all over Europe. Ive had a lap around the Nürburgring, and at both MX tracks and endurotracks and just about everything in between.
Generally, higher CR gives more torque, and a better powerband, not the other way around. Otherwise they would surely reduce the CR on endurobikes compared to their MX rivals, to give them broader powerband, but they dont...
"A high compression ratio is desirable because it allows an engine to extract more mechanical energy from a given mass of air-fuel mixture due to its higher thermal efficiency"
This pic from the book "basic 2 stroke tuning":
Its easier to uninstall the cap when the forks are still mounted. Make sure to loosen the pinchbolts in the upper tripleclamb first.
And yes, the 102 sounds like 102mm from the top of the compressed fork (without spring installed) to the oil.
Theres a lot of preload on that spring, compared to the picture i found. So thats why it stiff, and the rear is higher in the air than it should.
Its hard to tell if dogbones are stock from a pic, but they look like it.
Static sag is 10% of total travel of the rear shock, race sag is 30%.- This is a very good rule of thump for every dirtbike/dualsport/mx bike out there.
My dtr has spring preload at the bottom. its easier to remove the shock to adjust it, however yours could be damaged, it the preload is wound op a lot!
http://www.motor-bike-breakers.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Yamaha-DTR-125-Rear-Shock-absorber-Spare-Parts-Motor-Cycle-Breaking.jpg
Make sure the basic is right, tires, tire pressure, balancing, bearings (wheel and stearinghead) ect.
I made one myself aswell, used some diamondplate and an angle grinder, drilled some holes and installed it with big ass zipties. Used old innertube between the frame and the skidplate. This is the only picture I can find. Will take a better one and post it.
Yeah, the bike will sit lower in the front with a smaller front-wheel, so it needs a bit more force to bring it up.
Nope, most are different. They can even have the same spoke-count, but the angle which the spokes are mounted can be different, the same goes with the length of them.
Someheatfrom ablowtorch will usually loosen them up.
Now you know for next time.:)
If the snailadjusters move, just put your foot up against the rear wheel, and keep pressure on it while you tighten the axle.
Use a wrench on both sides if its the axle spinning..
Yes a 428 is lighter per link, but you also need more liks than a 520 because a 428 is smaller.
We've talked about the supersmall weight difference in another thread, so please, lets not go there again
Jt sprockets from an old YZ125, and a quality 520 chain of your choice will last about forever on this bike. I used a Did vx2 chain for all my bikes.
Hammer and a rod/drift. I did this today on my Xt550, took about a minute.
80/100 front is fine, its 1cm narrower, thats it.
In general, you can go up and down one notch in size compared to stock with no problems.
Yeah I have, theyre fine, although the knobs isnt as big/high as an M12 / S12 XC which I prefer.
My friend NOT making it over just about the easiest watercrossing you can find...
Norwp, I needed to make sure that I could physically mount it to the radiator aswell.
But thanks for your concern 
Tom, I know, as I said, it was a test to see if it would fit.
Its mounted on the right side tho, and its supposed to suck air, not blow it, so it pulls air through the radiator.
If coolant is boiling, something is off. youre not curing anything by changing the coolant to something that isnt boiling at that temp, but is actually running hotter. Thats treating symptons, not fixing whats wrong.
I kinda like this one 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VACKWvcXbXA
Evans actually run hotter than normal cooling, so yeah, not for me either.
Just tested in my frigde, it shows 11C, acutal temp is 5C.
In the shed it showed 30C, which was just about the actual temp as the sun was shining.
So yeah, perhaps theres something about a slightly wrong reading (reading higher than it actually is) when cold. As I said, i didnt even notice, so nothing to worry about, I still think its nice to see actual temps in degrees, instead of just the needle.
Okay, will chill mine today.
Just to clarify, the item seems to work flawlessly, and follows the needle in the dash.
Its not important what it reads when the bike is cold and is shut of, but will test just to see
Fix it instead of masking the problems. Get a cheap multimeter, and we will help you out. After that, get a capacitor if you want.
Ehr, the rectifier burns uo unused current, so the more you need the easier a life it has.
But the stator cant cope with 100W so the light will probably be dimmer than a 65w
HID are awfull in a reflector that isnt made for it, you get more light, but not where you need it.
If our lights are DC (which i presume) a good LED light might be an option. (I have it on my xt600 and my wr250r) But each reflector is different..
Something light this: http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3800-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html
ONe thing is whats your god given right, and another thing is how much you value your relationship with the neighbours. A 2 stroke ridden "off the pipe" shouldn't make much noise, so try to be easy, and perhaps shut it off 100m before youre home and let it coast to rest of the way. A bad relationship with the neighbours will make your life a living hell!
So try to lay low for a while, and talk to them individually when things has cooled a bit of. Ask them in a friendly way what the problem really is, and why each one of them havent said anything to you, wheen it seems to bother them so muc.
Haha yeah. We are a few guys and a girl who have a little offroadclub called Mudhogs, so it seemed appropriate.... It even matches the pink bike
The reason it feels better in the top with the PV pinned is because the difference between lowend and topend is bigger. The bike is really sluggish in the low revs.
With a prperworking PV, you get the best of both worlds, and going WOT in high revs, theres no part of the PV visible in the exhaust port, so no restriction at all.
My stock bike runs better with the snorkel removed, and the hole in the airbox enlarged.
I have added a little splash guard to keep the water away from the opening.
A drift for wheelbearings, I make a homemade press for the linkage bearings with a threaded rod, washers and nuts.
I once removed a bearing using bread aswell (go youtube it) just to try it
Clean and inspect the linkage, most people neglect this.
Might want to replace the fork oil aswell.
Airfilter is a foamtype, just wash and reoil, unless its broken down.
Whats the deal, any bike would go way expensive when doing the same...
I've seen people run 2% premix together with the oilpump for breaking in a piston.
People did that back in our moped days aswell.
But for everyday use, no point. If you dont trust your oilpump, take it off.....Youre adding oil anyway, so why dont you?
People seem so over-cautios about too much oil, i think theres a lot of information, floating around from back in the days with gummy been oil, that broke down and seperated from the gas if it was let to sit for a long period. This isn't racebikes, its everyday-bikes, they will run on a 5% premix, with a quarter of the gas beeing diesel. Tough reliable bikes.
Anyways, my guess is, at idle, the pump is flowing 1% or less.
Yeah cylinder looks 4-stroke. Have you noticed the weight and top speed aswell
It doenst boil until after 110c, so take it easy from there, or a bit sooner to give you some room to work with.
For comparison: A car is pretty much steady at 80c under normal operation.
Sounds rich to me. Lean would cause a high hanging idle. The bike should still rev out, just without much power.
When rich, everything is sluggish, and going WOT can feel like youre hitting a rev limiter, or as if the bike has a restriction.
Have you done all the basics? Fresh plug and clean airfilter? Is your floathight correct?
As a general rule: 2 strokes are restricked in the header/downpipe, and 4 strokes in the silencer/tail pipe.
Its easier to uninstall the cap when the forks are still mounted. Make sure to loosen the pinchbolts in the upper tripleclamb first.
And yes, the 102 sounds like 102mm from the top of the compressed fork (without spring installed) to the oil.
A frriend had to replace the right crank seal, he did it from the outside.
As fot cleaning the choke, as I said theres a passageway in the floatbowl, thats often overlooked when cleaning carbs, as people focuse on the main body. Im not talking about the choke plunger and where it mounts in the carb.
Just another thing to exclude
Yeah, most use 2% as a rule of thumb
I saw a chart on the auto-pump back in the days, as I recall it pumped out 3-4% af WOT, and way less just idling or at low throttle operations. Kinda shows you the beaty of the auto-pump.
Some info here: http://www.dansmc.com/2_stroke_oilpump.htm
Also, have a look at the reedvalves for broken or torn reeds.
Did you clean the choke passageway in the bowl?
Never had problem with non-original cables. I give them some light oil, and make sure to route them with a minimum amount of kinks. Often you can reroute them differently to get them even smooter.
But go eom if you feel like it
@DTR-NSR said in Hmm now what (A Rebore!):
Hard to tell in the pic but looks like the gudgeon pin circlip is missing? Unless you took it out before pic.
Yeah, and scratches on the side and dome of the piston right about at that point.
Good eyes.
Can HIGHLY recommend theese. You need an adaptorring for the stock headlight
The light will flicker a bit at low idling.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nighteye-H4-9003-HB2-8000LM-Car-LED-Headlight-Kit-Hi-Lo-Beam-Bulbs-6500K-White/391600374998?epid=907124270&hash=item5b2d3384d6%3Ag%3AqOYAAOSwlCdbGfEK&_sacat=0&_nkw=Nighteye+H4+9003+HB2+8000LM+Car+LED+Headlight+Kit+Hi%2FLo+Beam+Bulbs+6500K+White&LH_BIN=1&_from=R40&rt=nc
Adaptor:
Yes a 428 is lighter per link, but you also need more liks than a 520 because a 428 is smaller.
We've talked about the supersmall weight difference in another thread, so please, lets not go there again
Jt sprockets from an old YZ125, and a quality 520 chain of your choice will last about forever on this bike. I used a Did vx2 chain for all my bikes.
The air is regulated over the entire throttle range, however, it doesnt matter much/signifianly up top. Its primarily used to finetune from idle up to where the idle curcuit is beeing overlapped by the needle, at around 1/4 throttle.
Found one on ebay that said 1,1 and listed as beeing for a dt125r
Just aout all hubs are aluminium, no surprice there.
Next time add heat, if that doesnt do it, drill the head of.
Btw, isnt our stock cap a 1,1? Thats what I recall anyway.
Normal, what is normal? Outside temps vary by 20c theese days where im located. You'll have a hard time to reach 70c at the cap in the morning just cruising around, and having a hard time not to exceed 110c at the head in the afternoon on a tight track. Some valid points to where you meassure, temps will read higher in the head, compared to on top of the radiator.
Waterless coolant boils at higher temps, but something like Evans actually remove less heat from the engine, so...whats the point of that? I've never heard of anyone damaging a radiater due to cooling preassure. 1,3 bar isnt normal running pressure, but maximum pressure, before the cap lifts and "bleeds of" the excess. If you're worried, buy a cap with less pressure.
Unless it boils, its fine. Bike is designed to function with 100c or more coolant, otherwise it wouldnt have a 1,3bar cap on. Everyday use should be less of that, ofcourse. But the thermostat isnt even fully open at 80C, come on people...
Unless something is off, its also just about impossible to get detonation in our bikes with super low compression. I've ridden mine on 20% diesel as part of a bet, no issues.
Theres always small exeptions for modified engines, which generate more power and heat, but that goes for any engine.
A 4stroke wont have more maintenance comparing to a dt125r.
My xt600 was first opened at 125.000km I check the valves at the same range where people would replace pistons/rings in a dt125r.
No liquid cooling, its just a super basic bike. Im now at 180x.000km
Any dualsport-type-bike is easy to work on, because of no fairings ect.
My wr250r has 42.000km intervals for checking the valves, 6000km oil changes, and pops wheelies in 3rd gear.
What do you want in the bike, and what do you need it to do? Is it just a commuter, or do you take it offroad, ect.
The broken part has its own partno and can be bought alone, no need to buy a new fork.
Okay, just wanted to know if it was your experience, or just information that was passed on. What went wrong with them? Its kinda a simple device when you think about it, seals,pressure and fluid, so for some it might be worth it, especially if you know a certain seal is prone to leaking, so it can be replaced before its put to use. 
I know quality (often) isnt cheap, but theres usually something in between the high end stuff, and the super budget ones. Our dt125r's is a pretty good example of that. They arent exactly top of the pop, but works well enough for us.
A hefty pricetag doesnt always assure you quality, you can find examples of failed magura units aswell, but aftermarked, and the ones that come stock on some bikes.
I like the simplicity of the cable, it the pull is so easy on theese little bikes, with the long stock clutchlevers.
Anyways
"and I'd rather pay a bit more for a quality reliable product"
"however they are damn expensive at £280+ and the cost of them often does not justify itself."
So which one is it? You say you'd pay more, but also that the expensive ones isnt worth it. 
Whats your experience with the chineese ones, since you know about the build quality? Genuinly interested.
The cheap adjustable brake/clutchlevers work perfectly, if I wanted a hydraulic setup, my pennys would go towards some of the chineese kits.
I honed my stock cylinder and fitted a stock sized Mitaka piston and a new small end bearing.
Even used a cheap headgasket, didnt know otherwise at the time, and its still going strong 8000km later.
The honing tool you link to is for brake cylinders, so the grinding plates might be a bit short.
You need to make sure they dont catch the ports, or flip out of the cylinder when youre moving them, as they will catch the egde/end of the cylinder, damaging the stones.
Labor seems cheaper overseas, so it might be worth it to get the job outsourced, here prices are up and it takes forever because they have so much work at hand. So here its a combination of high prices, and you have to wait several weeks.
Almost looks like an yz125 from a distance, great looking bike bud!
Its almost impossible to wear out the transmission on our bikes, so its fine as long as it meets the specifications.
I cant remeber the interval for changing the oil, but its rediciously high. Most will change it way before, so the oil have an easy life. Just about any oil on the marked will exceed the specifikations on our bikes, which were basically designed in the 80's.
So yeah, dont overthink it.
Id just replace it aswell, its pretty common to do, And I've done so many times on other bikes, both for the gear selector shaft, and the main output shaft.
A broken connection will also light it up as recall. (safety feature)
Cant wait to hear it sing
A drift for wheelbearings, I make a homemade press for the linkage bearings with a threaded rod, washers and nuts.
I once removed a bearing using bread aswell (go youtube it) just to try it
Was putting around today with a friend, riding small tracks and secondary roads. Didnt reach reserve in 200km, managed 25,5km/l.
Its threaded in somehow, probably glued afterwards.
Mine was missing and I made something up, but I remember seeing fine threads
So its only the ring with the 3 pegs thats bad?
That should be pretty easy to make, or have someone make, but it sounds weird that you broke it 2 times.
Do you have the shim and locring in place, and have the whole thing well lubed?
Generally, higher CR gives more torque, and a better powerband, not the other way around. Otherwise they would surely reduce the CR on endurobikes compared to their MX rivals, to give them broader powerband, but they dont...
"A high compression ratio is desirable because it allows an engine to extract more mechanical energy from a given mass of air-fuel mixture due to its higher thermal efficiency"
This pic from the book "basic 2 stroke tuning":
Theres a lot of preload on that spring, compared to the picture i found. So thats why it stiff, and the rear is higher in the air than it should.
Its hard to tell if dogbones are stock from a pic, but they look like it.
Static sag is 10% of total travel of the rear shock, race sag is 30%.- This is a very good rule of thump for every dirtbike/dualsport/mx bike out there.
My dtr has spring preload at the bottom. its easier to remove the shock to adjust it, however yours could be damaged, it the preload is wound op a lot!
http://www.motor-bike-breakers.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Yamaha-DTR-125-Rear-Shock-absorber-Spare-Parts-Motor-Cycle-Breaking.jpg
Make sure the basic is right, tires, tire pressure, balancing, bearings (wheel and stearinghead) ect.
I have always been able to tap them out with a brass rod i use for that, as well as wheelbearings ect.
I can do a small stoppie and easely lock the rear = good enough for me and my type of riding...
Agreed, but it seems like thats your best option currently...
Whats wrong with the ones you got?
A friend had a faulty servo, sometime during a ride where the PV was open, it would leave it open. Other times just seem erratic. I believe the gears in the servo was toast.
Search ebay for a rebuild kit, as I recall its the same as a front caliper for a xt600 from 1990 and up.
This is mine (no kit though), a bit of deposits from excess oil, but otherwise tan as Hasselhoff!!
You need them for the look or for the protection?
For protection offroad: Get something with a piece of aluminium all the way, and it absolutely needs to be mounted to the bar-end to have stregth.
Just look at what is used at enduroraces, theese things arent bike specific as such.
Good for ya, cant wait to hear your thougts once you've flogged it a bit
Pictures is showing fine in the link
I always gear mine as heavy as possible (without sacrifising acceleration in 6th gear) for extended road-use, to keep the revs down.
Also, it sucks to ride in the rpm range where the ypvs opens and closes.
I have 520 sprockets, so they dont compare to the stocker. But 16/49sounds a bit like a 520 conversion? 16/59 is about stock as I recall, so going down 10 teeth in stock size is a big step if thats what you've done
Stock gearing is actually quite good for a bit of everything.
I wouldnt run mine at 8000rpms day ina nd day out, but the bike will probably handle it just fine
Tuning/racing is expensive, and its hard to stop once you start, as everything is connected, just like Calum is explaining.
But its also pretty hard to do right. Some people have spent a fortune without getting anywhere, or ended up with a bike with a 200rpm powerband, or just no low end power
After you've removed all the stock restrictions, you have to start spending money. A new aftermarked expantionchamber can really help with the low end, and makes it more ridable when you get in to the gnarly stuff offroad.
I havent seen many weight loss threads, there should be plenty of "meat" to remove from this bike. Lossing 5-10kg from the bike would be great. Removing the clocks and the huge light would help with a lot of weight up high on the bike. Replace it with an enduro light mask and an universal speedometer like trailtech vapor.
Replacing the battery with a capacitor is just about free aswell.
Also, servicing or upgrading the suspention is overlooked almost everytime.
Tuning isnt just about getting more hp. Its about making the bike handle better , and making it more rideable aswell.
Sorry if that got at little off topic.
Why is it you think a bigger piston needs more oil?
It needs about 2%, just like a 50cc bike, and just like a 500cc bike.
Fill the gastank and oiltank to the brim. Keep and eye on how much petrol you add, and how much oil you have to top up for a couple of tanks. Do the math, and work out the ratio the stock pump is giving you. You can still add 1% extra oil directly in the gastank while testing if you want.
Just putting around, the pump will probably only supply 1,5% which is fine. At WOT youre closer to 3%.Thats the beauty of the pump, it gives you excatly the amount of oil you need.
Cant wait to hear your thoughts about the kit.
Some upjet a lot with a different exhaust, eventhough its rarely needed.
How big is the mainjet? Try a stock sized.
I run 520, but around stock ratio. Not because I flog it, but to keep rpms down a bit on the street. I change gearing a lot, depending on the (offroad)rides. The little 125 needs all the help it can get.
Try a different front sprocket, they're cheap.
Have a look at www.gearingcommander.com you can see how different sprockets alters the rpm, speed an so on.
The idlejet is always flowing, so although its small, it will provide fuel over the entire rev range, but it will mean less and less for overall performance as the rpms rise.
Pics didnt load for me.
Yeah, thats a very uncommon thing to happen, solder should work just fine.
It should be one of thesse things:
You can hook up a big wire from the + on the battery, directly to the starter motor as a test. If the starter motor turns over, the battery should be fine. Beware,it will spark a bit because of the high amp draw from the startermotor.
Theres just about only 2 things that can make it overflow.
Yeah, cant see why dual cables should matter
Handguards will help some, as will muffs. But its still an improvement without. I use mine a lot, also during cool summernights ect.
I like oxford heated grips "adventure" model. Grips are larger than normal grips, but I actually like them like that. I have them on 2 bikes, 1 beeing the Dt125.
I use the cheap ebay cnc shortys on all my bikes. My dt125, wr250r, xt550 and xt600 all have the same type levers. Some slightly modified.
So if its about the same type/shape, it should fit.
No I really wouldnt, im not like that. I bought my DTR with under 10.000km on it, and motor has never been opened. Bike was absolutely stock. That didnt stop me from making it mine, and use it for everything from small mx tracks and enduro, to multi day trips with all my sleeping gear.
To me apperance meens nothing when its not legit. And I have the bikes to prove it
Its a bit funny that theres talk about removing speedometers, or not fitting them to not clock up miles, in the same thread where a guy basically says you cant trust the milage on bikes.... Gee wonder why 
Anyway, the talk was about not fitting low milage clocks, not about not riding low milage bikes. Pretty significant difference. He made it pretty clear that the bike has more mileage than the clocks, which you said it would be criminal to fit.... Who are you trying to fool by doing that, what good does a low mileage clock do you, on a bike with far more miles on it
Where im from thats called fraud. 
(definition of fraud: "wrongful or criminal deception intended to result in financial or personal gain")
Also, whats the point of having a bike, if its not to ride it? ( I know, I know, but its not for me)
Have a nice day.
Im totally the other way around. Love to clock the miles up, makes me thing about all the nice places i've visited, all the nice trips and so on. To me it just seems "fake" to run with clocks not attached, or "manipulated" in some way.
My xt600 is closing in on 200.000km, currently at 18X.000km. It sucks that it "resets" after 99.999,9km 
I believe the specs are max 1mm runout sideways, perhaps even up and down aswell. Why do you say you cant accomplish that at home?
I used the swingarm as a truing stand, and an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver, that was it. Remember to lube the spokenipples so they wont corrode.
Theres PLENTY of how-to's on youtube, its the same as truing a bicycle wheel.
I just used a an adjustable wrench for the last bit. Most was done with a screwdriver (it fits the ends of the nipples) Im sure you could get a cheap spokewrench on ebay.
Building wheels inst an artform anymore than rebuilding engines. Slow and steady gets the job done. Its quite satisfying.
If you feel you fuck it up, you could always just assemble the wheel, and pay someone to true it. Picture from my Xt600:
Hammer and a rod/drift. I did this today on my Xt550, took about a minute.
Why not make adaptor/converter loom, between the cdi and the main loom, so you can connect everything up without molesting either part.
Removing the snorkel affects the jetting, so jet accordingly. It can also decrese the low end a bit, as theres not much velocity through the carb when you whack the throttle open at low speed.
IMO the airbox seems pretty restrictive, so removing the snorkel adds tons of air.
You can be both rich and lean, as in lean in the midrange, and rich on the mainjet, or the other way around.
You need to jet for it, you cant just unbolt it and expect to unleash lots of power.
Youre probably a bit lean, hence the "flat" feeling.
Clean and inspect the linkage, most people neglect this.
Might want to replace the fork oil aswell.
Airfilter is a foamtype, just wash and reoil, unless its broken down.
I like the white frame, have considered it myself for another bike
Brand new? Just lube it up, some aftermarked actually come preoiled. The stock isnt.
I've removed my snorkel, and added some protection to keep splashing water away from the intake.
MX bikes runs way bigger piston to cylinder tolerances last time I compared
Any source for the benefits of doing heat-cycles?
Have seen it mentioned from time to time, but never seen anything to back it up.
Thanks man
80/100 front is fine, its 1cm narrower, thats it.
In general, you can go up and down one notch in size compared to stock with no problems.
Is the servo disconnected?
They can act up aswell due to corrosion and such.
I have never soaked clutchplates for 24, nor seen anyone do it.
Just assemle with a coat of oil will do the trick.
And yes, clutches are more prone to slip in higher gear, because the load on it is way higher.
Yeah I have, theyre fine, although the knobs isnt as big/high as an M12 / S12 XC which I prefer.
Meassure voltage at reg/rec and battery while idling, and while at 5000rpm
Im pretty sure the excs are restricted for emmissions, I belive the dealer adds another exhaust at purchase.
There should be a steady flow, and it should be the same in "on" af "res" setting.
Did you disassemble the petcock entirely?
Whats the deal, any bike would go way expensive when doing the same...
I have a H4 led aswell, you can buy adaptors on ebay ect to make them fit, so I took the easy route on that one. Love it at night compared to stock. I have led al the way around, but no blinkers installed.
And note, not all 2-stroke oils are suitable for premix. Make sure it says so on the bottle, unless you mix it up yourself.
Just about any half-decent 2-stroke oil will do, but most use some of the best, as the pricedifference per mile is so small nothing.
Norwp, I needed to make sure that I could physically mount it to the radiator aswell.
But thanks for your concern
And I answered "I know that", and described in detail that it was only a testfitting.
I got it for free, and now have the wiring sorted for a proper fan, and know what dimension will fit.
Lets move along, shall we?
Fan is protected a bit by fitting it on the backside
Thanks man, found a set in Poland, expensive tho, so havent pulled the trigger yet...
I found thoose, but seller hasnt responded regaring size/fitment.
Xr200 seem to have smaller diameter forks 
Pink is kinda rare, dont know why, haha 
Get the steel ones please, the others is made from 100%pure chinesium.
This design is much more sturdy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Foot-Pegs-For-Yamaha-PW-50-PW-80-TW-200-/310450858598?hash=item4848502a66:g:uUIAAOSw0UNZdwsd&vxp=mtr
Anyone have a source for pink fork gaitors?
Cant seem to find some at a decent price.
tw200 ones fit, theres tons of wide ones on ebay. getthe steel ones, the ones in alu will break (did for me)
I have been using the steel ones for my xt600 for years. All you need to do is to drill a hole for the spring, in one of them, otherwise bolt on pegs.
Yeah cylinder looks 4-stroke. Have you noticed the weight and top speed aswell
Nope, most are different. They can even have the same spoke-count, but the angle which the spokes are mounted can be different, the same goes with the length of them.
Thx man, we try to get out and explore things a little.
So, went out riding again.
This time with another Dt125 (with athena 170), wr200, and a girl on a xt550.
All yammies, and all of the burned oil
Im really lacking behind in the editing part, but theres some descent footage, which I would like to think that most of you can enjoy.
Feel free to comment, subscribe ect.
The video is divided into 3 smaller videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qHe0tPELqg
2strokes in general is jetted plenty rich, to make sure they dont seize.
I run my 94 R with snorkel removed, and the airbox opened slightly more.
Stock mainjet, and half a notch leaner on the needle. The mainjet is still plenty rich.
Stock header, and aftermarked end can, otherwise stock.
You could make a little bracket to mount on the bracket on the exhasut, to move ot more forward and seal better with the expansionchamber.
I think his shock was in a bad state, perhaps its lost some of the oil or gas, thus lacking much of the damping. Or it could just be old and worn out. A new stock one would probably be a big upgrade. Setting the sag should tell if the shock is bad or not.
You need to add stiffer springs if youre bottoming out, using thicker oil just masks the real problem.
Thicker oil slows the damping, which then gives the springs more time to work. Often resulting in the fork not working through the complete stroke, so you use less of the suspension available. Thats fine for street riding, where the brake-dive is reduced, and theres plenty of suspensiontravel compared to streetbikes.
I've always felt that thicker oil makes the ride harsh, in lack of better words. So I use lighter oil (5w-7,5w on theese types of forks.)
At my peak, I was above 110kg in riding-gear, and the bike still didnt bottom out on my stock bike. Make the front end lighter when riding over holes, by using throttle and moving your weight around. Learn how to use small bumps in the terrain as kickers, to get the front end up and over obstacles, wheather it beeing small potholes, or big rocks, logs ect.
Stiffer springs and heavier weight oil wont compensate for drivingskills, no offence ment.
I used a piece of coolant hose and 2 hose clambs on my dt175 years ago. It held up just fine. I guess you could also use some of that exhaust"cement" that expands and turn solid when exposed to heat (or left to dry) in combination with the coolant hose.
Dont know if this is the right place...
Anyway, were a few guys maintaining a 3km track, which the landowner let us use.
Today we were out having some fun, after cutting grass and branches, so its ridable once again.
Heres a loop of the track: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlNRxvOw1jA
The reason it feels better in the top with the PV pinned is because the difference between lowend and topend is bigger. The bike is really sluggish in the low revs.
With a prperworking PV, you get the best of both worlds, and going WOT in high revs, theres no part of the PV visible in the exhaust port, so no restriction at all.
I made one myself aswell, used some diamondplate and an angle grinder, drilled some holes and installed it with big ass zipties. Used old innertube between the frame and the skidplate. This is the only picture I can find. Will take a better one and post it.
34 here, with a pink 125cc.... I dont have a problem either
Theres also secondhand ones, but they're probably worn and "tired" aswell.
Its not made to be rebuildable, some can do it anyway.
You might wanna look at the shocks from Yss:
Forgot to add....I use the same ones (different colors tho') on my wr250r and my xt600. Most of the yammie dualsports use just about the same levers.
Yeah, I saw that. Impressive work, but way above my skill-level...
I was hoping something would fit with monor tweaks, and no welding.
Verify that the float height is correct
My stock bike runs better with the snorkel removed, and the hole in the airbox enlarged.
I have added a little splash guard to keep the water away from the opening.
Check petcock and the float in the carb
So, I've seen a few guys toss the oiltank, and mount dual coolers..
But have anyone found a single good aluminium rad to replace the original one? It seems like theres room for a slightly bigger once, with more depth for added cooling.
Perhaps a cooler from a different model could fit, or a universal one?
I ride mine in the gnarly stuff, and as outside temperatures rise, so does the watertemperature. I've fitted a fan with on on/off switch just to toy with the idea, but a better rad would for sure be way better.
Yeah, the bike will sit lower in the front with a smaller front-wheel, so it needs a bit more force to bring it up.
As a general rule: 2 strokes are restricked in the header/downpipe, and 4 strokes in the silencer/tail pipe.
@Calum said in difference between 3BN and 3MB head:
@Jens-Eskildsen I beg to differ. As said, most of the power of a two stroke can be found in the cylinder head. It's well worth investing money into the head.
As a genral rule yes, but this was specific between the 2 heads listed by the PO.
Heck, some people even tried and had a hard time noticing any difference.
So I still stand by my comment, I dont think its worth the cost for us foreigners who cant just get a head fixed for 35 quid. Most shops here charge you about 35 quid for just walking in to the shop. I think a normal skimjob is more than 35 here in Denmark. Let alone any custom work.
I wouldnt bother, the performance between the 2 alone should be hardly noticable... You still wont win any dragraces...
Thats cheap, I guys I saw it after the offer expired.
Hydraulicshops ect will make custom hoses aswell, so theres lot of options outthere, but 30 bucks for a set is hard to beat.
It's just a crimped line, have never about someone breaking one, regardless of the name. Feel free to share your experiences.
It wasnt a whole set for less than 30 bucks, was that what was offered by Hell? I only saw 30 per line, if that was for a seat that would be an awesome deal.
Im not forcing you, just throwing up the option to choose for yourself. 
My bike is a 2003 model, Im located in Denmark. Its at 170.000km total, I bought it with 50k on the clock. At around 125k i treated it with a new piston and a fresh camchain. Otherwise just normal parts like brakes, chain and sprockets and so on.
Here it is as a Sumo:
[img]http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/uploads/987/tarded.jpg[/img]
And offroad ( older pic):
[img]http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/uploads/987/HPIM2145Custom.jpg[/img]
This model has no flaws, or any specific thing to be aware of. But as a genral rule, many skip out on regreasing all the bearings in the swingarm and linkage.
The Xt600 is very good dualsport, which can be ridden in gnarlier stuff than you would imagine.
I have ridden 120.000km on mine, all over Europe. Ive had a lap around the Nürburgring, and at both MX tracks and endurotracks and just about everything in between.
Theres several cheaper options on ebay - If you can live with another brand.
