@rogering Using a Capacitor is just fine.

I ran one for over 2years. If you are woods riding/ trail stuff then I highly recommend keeping the Servo Motor on it.

YPVS gives the mid range torque you need out of it

Some little bits.

Removing material to clear the flanged nut I'm using off the fork leg for the correct position. Renewed this bit a while ago, the YZF carrier is not the best idea.

Finished setup for now, Lathed up 16mm Brass spacers and fitted together with 10.4 HT bolts.

98' YZ 250 1/4 throttle with billet alloy throttle tube, is plush like em snappy

New ceramic resistor.

Trying to keep Jap with a Denso W27ES-U plug. £1.70!

Call me the 'Artful bodger' Ran into some issues just using a capacitor to run the Ignitech. So strapped in ol' faithful in what's left of the only space available on the bike.

Slowly rebuilding my TM32. Sanded, wet sanded and polished internals.

Satisfied like glass. Giving a helping hand to the inevitable ingress of dirt to be combusted.

Remounting the WR rad, cutting the thermostat housing down, deleting the oil tank cap fixture from the support and shortening the rear radiator outlet futher to clear the tank. Then moving the whole thing forward to sit flush and safe.

Having alot of fun tearing it about, led me to ignore a serious issue. After letting the chain eat my original WR200 chain guide and very good condition Delta-box swinger, it was time to go back and fit plan A.

Drilled and M6 taped new mounts. Didn't feel like sacrilege after fucking it over already.

I wanted to do this for ages, fitting a YZ/WR 98'-02' chain guide looked to fit in my head. Can now replace it without having to take the swinger off, and readily available to replace now, as WR200 and early YZ 1990-94' sliders are rare, or silly money new.

Ugraded to RFX slider in blue, made from a hard polypropylene instead of silicone rubber. Should do the trick.

Running the airbox door removed and older 3MB airbox tract now with a 450 Main jet can you believe. It's now absolutely perfect with peak power dropping away at about 10,900rpm. She sings. Ready for my new ported top end. Looking to go full road racer at 12,600rpm with the larger carb.

Shortened the chain, back on a Steel sprocket with a 45T 520, good for 80 again which was missed,

I always preferred the original clutch cases, got a nice oil pump housing design. Had to use my 4DL one.

Standard (left) vs EBC's heavy duty clutch spring. Good upgrade, firm clutch with a quicker release.

New EBC clutch plates a while back had trashed my gearbox oil, found this, cause race bike..

Threaded insert and bolt for oil pump delete, re-sharpened foot pegs and brake pedal from the trail bike days.

Had to get out the shed today,

Rebuilt my 3RM02' - TM28SS, polished internals and re-jetted with the Ignitech ignition.

Fitting a Modified 1991'-93' KX125 throttle cable.

She's no looker, the body needs to be blasted, but inside she is minty.

Had a play and uploaded a new Ignition Map and it works well, Noticeable increase in torque low down and a big! improvement between 6-10k. + the 13t/51 setup keeps the power in. I'm having more fun squirting out of corners and sliding the back around in the revs. I don't think shes good for more than 70 flat out, it gets there quicker and that is the fun bit on any bike for me.

Mugged off a bandit 600 in a little uphill race, the dude was definitely surprised. I HATE the Suzuki Bandit. Just do.

Excellent upgrade. I like that the unit was labeled for me.

WR setup on the rear is definitely more rigid and thus more responsive, the back comes out progressively with a lower ride height, and the steering is slower upfront of course, Raising the rear another 1.5 cm should make this a little ninja!

The rear is a new bike, the YZ damper is so nice on Cotswold roads, if you can call them roads, A shock rebuild one day, but it's all just right as is.

So, now the Front end feels rubbish, A YZ Nissin caliper, TDR 320mm Disc and YZ125 - 3JD Fork legs on the shopping list.

Current Jetting:

280 Main
35 Pilot
Needle 5J25 - 5th grove from top.
6mm Reed Block spacer
Pipe Cross Airfilter
Drilled Airbox/w Snorkel in.

3MB00 Barrel - 3BN Cylinder head - Standard Bore.

It's nippy, but would be destroyed by an RS/MX/SX Rotax.

Something different;

Me and a friend organised and got funding for a road trip of a lifetime, starting Cape Town (South Africa), climbing Mt Kilimanjaro in (Tanzania) and then flying home from Mombasa (Kenya). 60 Days in Africa.

The aim, to raise money for The Grand Appeal Charity which help Bristol Children's Hospital.

We called ourselves 'The Rough Riders' and this is our trip, organised by ourselves and sponsored by local Gloucestershire companies and even some backing from Haynes Motor Manuals!

We prepared and imported our own vehicle, a 2005 Mitsubishi Shogun Sport 2.5TD from the UK, and ended up driving for 40 days and covered nearly 4500 miles.

Lots of things went wrong, some butt clenching moments driving as African standard of driving seems to degrade the further north you head.

But we managed to make it home safely. And we are completely broke, but it was worth it.

Rear storage unit I designed in Solidworks, was a bastard to build into the rear.

Our Oil cooler, rear brake line, head gasket and powersteering all ended up failing on us throughout the trip. But we bodged what we could and made do. The mighty shogun limped us home.

And off she went back to the UK.

It was a blast, cheap living, Diesel, and hospitality. It was a hell of a journey, and Africa is a special continent. Not very scary really.

Safe to say, it's nice to be back in rainy UK. And the next project awaits..,

It was our own Top Gear adventure, read up and give us a follow on Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/theroughriderproject/

I bought this edition ages ago. Interesting read. Also proof of concept for Ignition tuning on these bikes, I highly recommend it to anyone.

From Germany... on to the 1997' 125R. Love that riding gear.

Then came 1998. The last year to use the original Oil pump design. The last of the real DT125Rs. You could still get 11,500 RPMs when you wanted it.

This is the end of the DT125R, 99-03' models are completely sanitised and the heavier Generator design that followed make these engines even more soulless.

So quite enthusiastic I own a 2001...

Oh well.

If your are looking for the most refined 125 2stroke ever made, it would be 3RME DT125R.

I found quite a rare copy for the 2005 DTRE 'Stefan Everts Edition'.

No love for the DTRE at this point, fatter and confusing ergonomics, It's amazing Yamaha stretched the DT125R from 1988 to 2007. The everyday 2stroke market was finally dead.

Production of the DTRE completely moved into Europe to.

The RE borrwed dimensions and design from the 1997' DT230 Lanza, Yamaha's last attempt to keep selling a 2stroke relic at that point.

No offence to you DTRE owners. Be assured!

To a great bike, that is actually best when you leave it alone and original..

I'll just leave this here.

@CYBER-NINJA It's werid people say this, A boost bottle and the YIES chamber design from Yamaha never increased horsepower.

All Boost bottles or 'resonance chambers' do is help to smooth out 2stroke induction, which is of most benefit at lower air speeds... Low to Mid RPM running.

@jgr72 The WR200 inlet wont raise the height of the carburettor, but, it will make it clear the Clutch arm and give better clearance around the Shock Absorber.

Also for the love of GOD, do not chop this bike around anymore!!!

I would get rid of my DTR for your 'Endurance Blue' 3DB1 DT125R. They are one of the most desirable models.

See my build thread for carb placement, and note that there is no clean way to upsize carburettor bodies!

EXCEPT. using a (TM30ss) That will just about fit in with the original 125R inlet tract.

https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/77/yamaha-dt125r-01-running-project/73

32 degrees, sticky rubber, cotswold country lanes, 2strokes and considerable beer intake on par with University life.

I ride this thing 22 miles a day as a daily to go work, built this thing to be used and I just 'turn it up' a little on the Laptop for a blitz on the weekend somewhere.

Drawing this project to a close, and enjoying the result, or atleast this iteration of it so far...

I had some clearance issues with the Powervalve under expansion. I removed material in increments by machine sanding.

Custom bracket for the FMF Powercore1 can. Fits on a DTR well.

Built the headlight brackets,

WR400 Face swap.

There is no room left on this bike. Made a mount for the Ignitech Ignition, secure, doesn't suffer from heat exposure and most importantly it's accessible.

As for cooling, air flow is fine still.

Modified AS3 Silicone WR200 radiator hose's to suit this mongrel application.

This leads me to something interesting I found,

I needed a new WR200 coolant pipe, turns out later 4BF4 1995' WR200s use a larger 18mm bore coolant pipe.

I got one brand new old stock from Japan. I've rust protected it, primer and a Gold top coat for a little bling.

Then of course a 4BF4 Waterpump cover is required.

4BF4' Pictured above vs 125R/200R

I never knew Yamaha updated the cooling for the WR200, so I had help getting a used one.

IT ONLY JUST FITS... Tight bruuuh. I made a brace for the coolant down pipe as it's just a braised joint and I managed to split my last one like a clot.

Originally this mounts onto the WR200 Cylinder, so ideally this has to be done to the 125R barrel.

Cooling is now more than adequate,

WR200 Inlet, TM32 fitted. This inlet gives you more angle to use larger carburettor bodies.

WR200 vs DT125R. Inlet tract a little longer, Mounting points have to be modified and crankcase stuffers removed.

New YZ braided brake lines and removable exhaust joint to get the FMF onto the DEP.

(An oldschool mechanical display setup. Dorky but I love this older stuff.

The fun bits. Built to be ridden alot!

Using a base map close to a TZR125 4DL SP, It runs particularly well under 6K.

This DT now shifts.. I use a 4DL servo setting which utilises the PV opening later than the DT or TDR 3SH.

It's far from perfect, but a safe base tune to run on as this is my daily as the weather is so good.

It's run in properly now, and it is glorious. It sounds fantastic over 10,000rpm.

Powerband is up at 9,500rpm and it pulls hard to 13,000.

DTR Gear ratios are perfect for this TZR head and it's acceleration characteristic is spot on, 0-62 less than 6 seconds.

More to come, more bits from Japan to arrive and then finally a Dyno session with a TM34ss fitted.

Stay safe!

(6mm Stainless Steel - Brass 13-14mm spacers)

I made DXF files for Waterjet cutting - for a Stainless Calliper adapter and spacers for a SM conversion using the 'YZF125' Brembo calliper.

If there are a few members here looking to do SM conversions, I could get a few kits together with bolts,

Just a limited run as I have the time for the moment.

@declan I’m having a laugh bud, good to see it up together!

@declan This is truly magnificent, a stunning example! Very OEM+

@Calum I’ve been hovering around, admiring the good work here

4FU's are beast, Nicasil plated to.

Slightly bigger crankcase transfers

Too many strokes in that engine

@Calum Can agree on that, Endurance Blue is my favourite looking DTR.

@oldman What a lovely classic Yamaha

@dtre94
Sounds like the Float level is Setup all wrong,

Motorcycle carbs are very simple when you get into them, if you plan on riding a 2stroke, then learning about carburettors by rebuilding the one you have, which is probably fine is the best thing to do,

You will need a Haynes Manual for the DTR/RE, this will be the best resource for you to rebuild it, and learn more!

It’s easy, basic tools, we can help you with carb setup at least here on the forum,

Don't buy just any carb, you will find it difficult to even fit one in there, let alone set it up,

@Walney-Reptiles Yeh when I've made a working prototype I'll let you know bud,

@jonne123 Just get an entire DTX front end bud,

@jonne123 I believe they are different part numbers yes for the speedo drive, I use a DTX Speedo drive with mine.

But, beware DTX are waaay better forks, stiffer with less travel in them, they are also shorter than DTR forks which really helps the front end geometry for a Motard setup,

I have to run 30mm solid bushes in the DTR forks to take out the fork travel and make it somewhat reasonable to ride, otherwise I think it's pretty bad.

I know WR125R forks are better sprung out the box, and that is a straight swap, you can just run the non mechanical drive WR125R Speedo sensor to the OEM Digital clock, pretty smart setup