Power valve all disconnected?!
So I got my DTR today (hooray)
Got about de restricting it, taking that hoonamajig out of the Rev counter, no problem. Thought I'd check the power valve linkage, and this is what I saw..
The cables appear to be very much disconnected. And there is a screw at the top (loose, asif it's too small for the hole it's gone into)
The servo does the cleaning cycle when I turn on the ignition so I know it works, just wondering what this is all about and how I connect it back up and wtf is that screw at the top doing?!
Right I think (hope) I've sorted it.
Took the plastic wotsit off and both the cables were disconnected. So put them on;
After taking it down the garden it seems to power on more smoothly than before where the power would all come in at about 6k. Heard stuff about the valve needing to be turned 180 degrees also though? So still unsure whether the valve is positioned correctly but it seems better atm Atleast. I can't take it out on the road until next weekend where I'm doing my cbt (for the 3rd damn time)
The screw turned out to be some sheared self taper that looks as though it belongs in holding together some furniture..
What on earth??
Okay I've got the exhaust off (I don't mess about)
I've heard that the valve must be flush with the port with the ignition on is that right?
This is how it sits with the ignition on, which I'm assuming is correct?
So the screw comes out. Cables on, and the powervalve wants to be absolutely flush with that exhaust port.
The powervalve alters the exhaust port timing, at lower RPM's you want a small port timing, then at higher RPM's this wants to be longer. I'd alter the valve so that at fully open, or on off resting position, that valve is absolutely flush with the port. Else you miss out of top end.
It may be the case that the exhaust port has been modified and is bigger than stock, in which case the valve needs to be modified so that when it's opened fully, it does not block any of the port.