@andrewj1680 said in Any ideas how i can run my ypvs without a battery:

@rogering according to the wire diagram on the 3 wire servo there should be black and yellow to cdi unit so this would be a live, a black should be earth put a fuse and then looks like brown is a remote earth

brown will be live
on yam wiring black is earth brown live

I sell u a nut an washer dude
Just pay for postage

if you go to wilkinsons you can get a plastic measuring jug for about 70p then you know exactly how much you are putting in

it connects to wires coming from the cdi
black/yel wire with female bullet

black wire
brown wire
these live in what looks like a double female spade plug

@mad73 said in project rxs100 cafe racer:

Ain't got much else to spend it on don't really go out much any more don't drink much and trying to quite smoking so saving money there will try and do as much as I can myself to cut the cost but might need a few things made will see want a log book first so will have to get on to dvla about it ain't got a number plate other wise it would be easy

If you pm the vin I may be able to find out its details including the reg

@CYBER-NINJA

I can do this at work trouble is we now use hpi checker an it doesn't always work for old vin numbers

I can try for you if u pm the vin

@Louis-James said in Photo of pv servo needed:

Thanks
Any chance you can take a close up pic I need to see how it mounts to the frame

@dan28
that cloud / pic attach tool is awesome thanks calum

@Calum I m hoping to find a light pair of forks an make the wheel fit

@Calum
What about forks are there any out there that are a lot lighter than stock maybe ktm for example

When doing a front end swap are there any forks an wheel that are considerably lighter than standard

I 've snipped the wires an write them all down but now I can't find the piece of paper I m struggling with the wiring diagram is it's very small writing
From memory I think black an yellow are high bean warning lamp an red red/yellow are oil but I m struggling on the others this is 1989 model can anyone help

@DTRLuke
I think if you cut the plug off an join both wires together it will work

When the yamaha dtr gets stolen how is started do they simpley turn the lock with a screwdriver or does the ignition lock need to be removed an wired joined together
I m asking as my engine is in a diffeent frame an the wires pass through the frame they can't be acessed unless the tank is removed

I fitted a dtr engine in a yamaha xvs it's 90 % done but I m struggling with some of the wiring I 've had to extend the loom an move certain things
I m not very good at reading the yamaha wiring diagram I find it hard to follow
I m left with these
Tail light wires "black earth yellow ? Blue/red ?
Rear indicators I have 3 wires dark green dark brown an black I assume there are left an right an they share the earth ?
At the front I have a blue /red wire labelled as parking light there is no side light fitted so can I chop this wire off
Also I have a yel/ red from switchgear I think this goes to stator ?

@dan28
Just thinking don't just cut straight through the whole thing as the baffle tube inside needs to be an inch or two longer to fit into the end cap of I remember correct

I had to cut
the end Can ( hardest part is putting the end cap back on )
Use the off cut over the top of your now short pipe as a template to drill the new holes

On the 1989 what colour are brake light an tail light wires

where did you get the inline filter from is it glass or plastic

@oldman said in 1988 bike:

OK, thanks Calum. Replacement shock arrived and it's worse than the one I need to replace sadly. Lower ball joint corroded and worn and corrosion on plunger shaft has damaged the seal, very little damping going on. Will keep looking for a decent one.

look for a shock from a newer bike they have a white spring an fit on the 89 model

how do you use both you push the switch for main beam

i would put a multimeter on the wires sounds like its not getting enough power if its dull

@dan28
What if I ran 55 rear an then went up two teeth on the front

@Calum
Problem is the sprocket is dished
The wheel is off a sachs roadster

The biggest sprocket I can find ( on eBay ) is 55 tooth

The dt engine is in a different bike
I know the stock hearing should be 57 but I m having trouble finding a sprocket bigger than 55 that will fit my wheel

gradually trying to sort out the messy wiring loom that the ink cant be read on the labels

on the the rear indicators there are 2 live wires
dark grren
brown which is left an right ?
an on the tail light there is yellow an red which one is the brake light

if you go to wilkinsons you can get a plastic measuring jug for about 70p then you know exactly how much you are putting in

can some one with a dtr confirm the fuse is 15 amp?
a photo would be be helpful too

@Calum said in photo of battery wires needed:

@dan28 20 Amps, again RE has the starter motor and relay. Might be 15 on the R.

thanks calum maybe some one with a dtr can confirm this ?

i dont think my loom came with either of these what ampage is the inline fuse sounds like i will have to buy a fuse hold an make an earth wire

i ve fitted a dtr engine into a chopper an i ve had to run the wiring through the frame
i have two wires (black an red ) labeled battery but they have no terminals or inline fuse
do the battery wires unplug from the main loom could someone post a photo so i can see where i ve gone wrong

@calum said in How to fix photo bucket links:

Photobucket is naff anyway as it compresses the image. Somemof my images I never had copies on my pc. Consequently I have been left with low resolution as my only copy.

@calum said in How to fix photo bucket links:

Photobucket is naff anyway as it compresses the image. Somemof my images I never had copies on my pc. Consequently I have been left with low resolution as my only copy.

its better than nothing though it can be handy for how to guides etc
here is a pic to explain

@dan28
I won't let me ad the photo ( will sort it when I go on PC )
You have to type original into the old link

Due to photo bucket changing their settings a lot of photos on buildthreads can't be seen anymore
Here us a way to fix it ( I copied it from another web site.

pic of thermostat housing

the bike has been in bits for too long an I cant remember where these hoses should go

this one comes from the head can some one post a pic of where the other should go

![0_1515351330590_05032011459.jpg(https://i.imgur.com/czl0gOc.jpg)

this is my thermostat housing a pipe should go from here can someone post a pic of where it goes to

If you don't use the pipes do they need to be blocked off
Or can they be removed from the carb altogether by warming the carb an removing the pipes so it looks neat
What about the head an thermostat housing can these be blocked off
Does any one have a pic to show how they have done it

@dan28
two of them are pointing up one big one small

@calum said in dellorto carb on dt hose location:

The one pointing upwards is a carb overflow fuel line. Simply put a line in of the right size, tuck it behind the shock to the floor.

The other two are carb warmer pipes. Not needed, but they should meet with corresponding lines on the head.

@calum said in dellorto carb on dt hose location:

The one pointing upwards is a carb overflow fuel line. Simply put a line in of the right size, tuck it behind the shock to the floor.

The other two are carb warmer pipes. Not needed, but they should meet with corresponding lines on the head.

I m not even sure what way round these should go I guess one goes to the head an the other to thermostat housing also what is the small gold pipe for coming out of the carb

28mm dellortro think its pbh I got it of scrim on here its off a tdr I believe I m not sure where the hoses should go from carb to engine
thought I could find a diagram on google but no luck

is any one else using a dellorto carb I need to know how to fit the hoses I will try to upload a pic to show what I mean

the plastic pulley has to aligned with hole to be able to pin it though unless I glue a washer on to the plastic pulley to align it before the hole

@calum said in pinned powervalve gap or no gap:

@dan28 You need to wait for the upload to complete mate. What for the image to embed itself into the page before hitting submit Be paitient, you're working off a 2mb upload!

Each time I try to upload its says the image is too large an doesn't embed it
Not sure why I m using the same phone an has worked on here before

but if the hole in the plastic pulley is aligned with the housing there is a gap between the pv an the cylinder wall
which way is correct
 

when the pv is pinned if I turn the plastic pulley so the hole in the pulley is just before the hole in the housing the pv feels smoth inside an there is no gap between the cylinder wall an the pv
heres a photo of the pulley

Need to refit my engine after it's rebuild there's a few things I m
Not sure about thought I would ask about all of the issues in one place

How do you set up the oil pump ( I need to refit the cable ) an bleed it an check that it's working
An same with radiator

I having a blonde moment does the rubber o ring gasket go under the thermostat or above
The original just had instant gasket all over it

Was just about to refit the used thermostat into my rebuilt engine I ve tested it in boiling water an it doesn't seem to open or do anything
Some I m gonna buy a new one is there a specific brand that lasts longer than others
Does anyone have a link

Try cutting a slot along the thread of the bolt an see if it will clean the thread out
If not run A tap through the thread
Last resort screw in some threaded bar coated in red loctite leave it over night put a nut on the end of the stud an use a compression washer

@zrako said in How would one simply bleed the autolube?:

Its very easy to bleed the autolube (red oil pump). But thats the last thing you need to do after you rebuild.

Can you explain how to do it please

What size is the thread m 6. ?

Can the oil drain bolt / sump plug washer be reused
If not then what size is the washer I don't want to remove the old until I have a replacement will probably have one at work if some one can tell me the diameter of the an size of the washer

@nottsbiker

Aldi are / we're selling ultra sonic cleaners for around £25

I be fitted a Dt motor in a chopper that should have a v twin four stroke
Fitting the engine required making new mounts etc but that's the easy part getting the exhaust an loom to fit was a nightmare

What are you planning to do if you are swapping one 2 stroke for another it should be a case of chopping an moving the mounts but it's not always that simple if the engine has to mount through swing arm


Just to confirm the pulley faces outward an the holes are on the left
( it's not going in a Dt frame so it's best to check before I weld the bracket )

Are you spare wires
One black yel bullet
An other 2 one brown one black both live in same connector ?

If so you need a 3 wire servo
5 wire servos also need a contrôlér but 3 don't

I would try it with the servo when it's pinned there is no power at low revs
Perhaps it's unplugged for a reason I would take the pv out an clean it toke sure it's not sticking then connect the servo up an try it

@andrewj1680 said in Any ideas how i can run my ypvs without a battery:

@rogering according to the wire diagram on the 3 wire servo there should be black and yellow to cdi unit so this would be a live, a black should be earth put a fuse and then looks like brown is a remote earth

brown will be live
on yam wiring black is earth brown live

it connects to wires coming from the cdi
black/yel wire with female bullet

black wire
brown wire
these live in what looks like a double female spade plug

@andrewj1680 said in pinning power valve parts needed:

You could always just stick a big washer behind the bolt that runs through the middle you can lock it off that way which is what I have ended up doing today as since having port work and the power valve modded it kept moving a little over fully open

I ve bought the servo kit I can use the standard parts to pin it now
or if I can get the servo to fit my frame I will use it
(the dt engine is in a different frame ) its gonna be a mission to get the servo to fit I wanted to mount it under the tank but the cables are too short
not sure it will be worth the hassle

@Louis-James said in Photo of pv servo needed:

Thanks
Any chance you can take a close up pic I need to see how it mounts to the frame

@mad73 said in Embedding Images:

@Calum
just went on photobucket and mine is not the same as yours , when I right click the pic I don't get copy image location come up , but I have options on the side of the pic,
email & I'm
direct
HTML
IMG
when I put the pic of the nsr up earlier I used the HTML but it just displayed the link not the pic but now theres a pic showing did u do that ?

When you use photo bucket use the image link ( this will copy the image)
Then right click an paste on the Dt site

If for some reason it doesn't work use the the direct link on photo bucket once it's pasted to the Dt site you have to click the link to display the photo
Hope this helps

@Calum said in Where on the loom do brake light switches connect:

@dan28 You also just use a banjo switch if it's been chopper mate. Really simple and nice way if doing it if you have to.

I would rather use the original plugs in the loom as I am going to have to route the loom internally through the frame if I use a banjo it will make routing it more difficult

theres a square plug on the rear of my loom it has 3 wires , yellow ,black ,blue/red but its labelled as tail light

What other wires are they near on the loom as I don't seem to have them

Just been looking at my loom it's all labeled up

I ve just noticed there doesn't seem to be any thing that connects to the brake light switchs ?

@Calum said in advice needed on pinning power valve:

Read it, don't understand the problem.

Surely you can just assemble the powervalve and then lock it in place if you so wish to.

If you have the servo and wires then leave them attached in the open position then job done

The problem is I sold the original head that already had the Pv pinned this head came with out a Pv an I didn't take any notice of how it went together

If I put the bolt through the cap an into the Pv shouldn't there be a pin in the cap (shown in photo)that fits into the indent on the side of the barrel stopping the cap from being able to turn

Or am I over thinking it an just need to do the bolt up tight if so then why does the cap an barrel have those indents for a pin to fit in

I looked on the forum it says you use a drill bit in the hole in the cap to hold it in position I thought if no servo was fitted it would have a pin as standard
Does Anyone have a photo of the parts needed for the left hand side

I think you may be able to use mountain bike chain rollers
Try searching for mrp chain rollers

@chunky3
I can try checking the frame number at work
Using hpi check it may not find anything as it doesn't always work with short 9 digit vins we used to use experian checker but they have changed it

@CYBER-NINJA

I can do this at work trouble is we now use hpi checker an it doesn't always work for old vin numbers

I can try for you if u pm the vin

You can get butterschot too

I have an adaptor for dt x caliper an Dt fork
It's been cut but I could liquid metal it back together an you can use it for a template

I also have a dtx caliper but I need it can add photos of it to help u find one on eBay

I have two busted carbs will check if the air screws will turn
Can you add a photo of the air screw please

@vtrn_raptor said in Would anyone be willing to help me:

I would but I want to be able to switch wheels from supermoto to off-road and the engineering place charge over £100

Over £100 !
Do you need wheel spacers too

It's easy enough to make your self

Try this
Take a piece if clear Perspex sit it on your caliper an use a soldering iron to make mark where the holes are
Cut it to shape with dremmel an then bolt to your caliper sit it on your fork poke the soldering iron through the holes on the fork

Once you get it all lined up make it out of thicker plastic or wood before making it out of metal

@mad73 said in project rxs100 cafe racer:

Ain't got much else to spend it on don't really go out much any more don't drink much and trying to quite smoking so saving money there will try and do as much as I can myself to cut the cost but might need a few things made will see want a log book first so will have to get on to dvla about it ain't got a number plate other wise it would be easy

If you pm the vin I may be able to find out its details including the reg

I m sure I ve seen a leo vince similar to the above for a 2 stroke scooter

link
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38-51-Motorcycle-GP-Blue-Stainelss-Exhaust-Muffler-Pipe-Tip-Slip-on-Street-Bike-/391349310227?hash=item5b1e3c9313:g:4cgAAOSwXshWqa~J

has anyone treid a gt slip on style end can on their dt

I think I should be able to fit the baffle from my big one exhaust in to the dep

The Dt engine isn't in a Dt an the shape of the dep gives more room

It's empty no wadding or pipe inside

Just bought a used dep end can cut it down to stubby it
An found there is no inner pipe ( baffle )
I thought this was welded in
Has someone removed it or do some pipes not have one

Any progress with this ?

When using I phone there is no back button . Have to click at the top of the page an go back to the homepage
I found the old site much easier to use