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DT125R Owners Build
216 Topics 5.4k Posts
  • 3 Votes
    198 Posts
    Stevie WonderS

    @HOTSHOT-III said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):

    @Stevie-Wonder “The vacuum bleeder could be sucking air down the bleed nipple threads and into the hole at the bottom of the bleed nipple. I'd forgotten this but I once tried sucking the fluid out with a syringe and it did this, took me a long time to figure out.”

    Ahh! I was starting to assume that something wasn’t quite right to be honest, having managed to bleed my brakes myself with no problems I thought it’s only fair to assume it must be getting air in somewhere else. I’d just thought that the seal from the hose to nipple wasn’t enough for the Vacuum against it.

    “You can improve this and prevent corroded/snapped bleed nipples by liberally applying copper grease to the threads when you install them. Put a fat O-ring between the caliper body and 8mm hex head with a bit more copper grease when you've finished bleeding as well and they'll crack off with no drama in two years' time.”

    That’s a pretty simple fix. Braided lines are pretty cheap for the DT/WR and now I’m confident that I’ve got the hang of bleeding brakes I was thinking of getting some so I’ll take advantage of being able to do that whilst the hoses are off. Only trouble is what colour do I pick? I was thinking blue or orange to match the decal.

    “Couldn't help noticing your stock pipe/DEP silencer joint above the battery; is it sealing?”

    If I remember correctly, the outer diameter of it is smaller than that of the dep back box and I’ve just left it there for the sake of it however I did get lucky with my dep as it’s a very tight fit (i understand Dep’s are not always the best like that) so I’ve never really had any trouble. Even when I was running the Dep expansion chamber it was such a tight fit the worst I got was a little bit of black soot on the battery tray.

    great bit of kit to be honest, for the money I’m very impressed. Cheers for the heads up I’ll be buying one. I’ve been doing a bit of an inventory check with my tool box and noticed a lot of bits and bobs missing.

    Despite having a family of mechanics I never got taught about the different tools, drives etc etc so I’ve ended up with a lot of mismatch bits and incomplete sets. Sometimes it feels like I spend more time trying to find the right tool then I ever do working 😂

    Having ADHD and Asperger’s is a killer in that respect though, you put something down you was just using to do something and instantly forget what you’ve done with it and if it’s anywhere but it’s usual place I end up having to do a 15 minute search everywhere as apparently I like hiding things from myself 😂. Hopefully I’m not the only one who does this though.

    I have found some magnetic socket organisers which go on the side of my toolbox, since having them I’ve spent a lot less time searching for stuff and the fact I can just press the ratchet into the socket and quick change them as they’re stuck on the outside is really convenient

    Jake who I bought the guides etc from asked me how I’m doing for suspension/ forks, unfortunately though I just don’t have the spare cash to buy them. Plus they’re one of those things where as much as I’d love to buy them and store them in the loft I know the same will only happen again. Sourcing another pair would definitely be easier than re-chroming them.

    I'm not certain but I think those stanchions unscrew from the wheel/brake bosses (they'll need to for chroming). I once changed one on a GSX-R400SP GK76A (I had bent forks but wanted to retain the SP rebound adjuster and could only find standard forks at the breakers) and it required a lot of heat to get it to move, I think it was held in with some kind of industrial strength Loctite. Once undone there was a O-ring to seal the joint and a thin shim underneath the stanchion. I reassembled it with a new O-ring and loads of JB Weld but someone somewhere will know the torque setting for this, maybe fire off a few emails to some of the tuning shops in the States like Pro Circuit etc.?

    Understand your point about slight oiling protecting the fork stanchions but it can also "protect" your front brake and for this reason an alert MOT tester will fail you for pitted forks. A bit of GT85 on a rag after every rain/mud ride and after washing should stop the corrosion and give your seals an easier life.

    With the alloy swingarm, I’ve already got a DT200WR swingarm and went through a total ball ache trying to find out what it was (info for the DT200WR is nearly always in Japanese and the only real English speaking community for them is in Costa Rica). The person that sold it listed it as DT/Yamaha swingarm and said he was going to use it for his DT. Only issue is before selling it he took it upon himself to raw it all so it needs sandblasting and powder coating. Sounds daft but I love the look of it, by comparison to the WR200 which uses the snail chain adjusters the DT200WR uses a more modern axle block style.

    Whilst the snail adjusters are very practical and simple to use. I wanna give the ‘ole DT a slightly updated feel. Like a 90’s/00’s OEM+/Factory works type
    of vibe.

    “Definitely agree messing about with stuff like this gives a greater high than going out and getting wasted with the "In Crowd". Sat here writing this on a Friday night after spending all day on a wheel build and life feels pretty agreeable”

    Agreed. I’ve spent so much money over the years doing just that and now all that money I would’ve been spending goes on bikes.

    Speaking of wheels, I think a set of sumo’s and replacing the excel 19” with an excel 18” is what I’ll do next.

    A set of DTX wheels I think is my best option as then I can still have a working speedo, if I laced 17” wheels to the standard WR hub the reading would be wayyy out and as far as I know no one makes a converter for when this happens.

  • So Close!...

    3 Votes
    1k Posts

    @SpookDog It's definitely bled properly?

  • 0 Votes
    25 Posts


    Apart from a lot of shame and embarrassment?

    I had to call my (lovely!) Siss to bring out some petrol cans, empty the tank on the side of the road, nip to the garage and refill the tank. Started second kick.
    The massive plumes of white smoke cleared up in less that a klick! 🙂

    It was a place I’d never been to before and all the hoses were black (BP?) I saw the ‘supreme’ and fuxed up!

    But it was my fault, not the bike. If anything it was a trooper for getting me 2 miles down the (unwalkable because of flyovers) dual carriageway before ‘puffing’ out!
    I use my mirrors more now! 😜 💨💨💨

  • lights not working since new stator

    0 Votes
    4 Posts


    Is it second hand? Try putting the old one back on to check the lights are working…

    Did you cure your misfires?…

  • 0 Votes
    9 Posts


    Once you start getting crap in the carb, it can only come through the tank. I can’t run my bike for any length of time without an inline filter. Getting a decent quality small one is the problem…

  • 0 Votes
    12 Posts



    Well that's not on the cards at the moment, I spent all my funds buying the bike and getting it on the road heheheh.

    I'll likely see if I can borrow my buddy's garage, prop it up in there and do the full tank and plastic off job to get it off then I can clean it and refit more at my leisure. Will also give me chance to drain the tank and check the tap filter, but to be honest 32 years old or not, this hasn't been used much and appears well looked after so that's probably all quite clean.

    I used to love doing shit like this, I'd dive right into an engine blind/no books or internet and tear it down and rebuild with basic tools, but I'm fooked now, body rather beat and enthusiasm almost dead and buried, heheh.

    Cheers again!

  • cdi dodgy

    0 Votes
    7 Posts

    @SpookDog Hey bud it was done and tested a long time ago. I haven't updated my thread,I have progress but I need one more thing to clean and provably will post 100 success in fixing.

  • Headlight spring

    0 Votes
    7 Posts


    As long as it’s on!…

  • Grey oil and bike wont start..

    0 Votes
    2 Posts

    Hi bud!…

    Water pump seal for grey oil. Crank seal for black smoke (coolant is white) If the plugs are fouling up I’d imagine it’s the seal like you replaced. It’s all to easy to damage the seal while fitting. Especially if using a screwdriver! Only the very outer 1mm can take lite taps, anything inside of that will destroy the seal. One of the ‘rings’ on the collar is supposed to be there. It’s what the lip of the seal fits into. There’s often another where it’s been turned around.
    Check your radiator level. Water in the oil can only come from the pump seal. They can be a bitch to remove and replace…

    PS What’s a ‘left canny’?!…

  • Dt125r harness loom

    0 Votes
    2 Posts


    There’s someone in Portland Dorset who makes looms for just over £200. I’ll dig out a link…

    Here’s one:

    Here’s the one. You’ll have to contact him about the year tho

    Click Me

  • Tail Tidy

    0 Votes
    3 Posts

    That's great, many thanks 🙂

  • Project DTZr.....a DT125R love story

    4 Votes
    80 Posts

    I took 2 weeks off and rains heavily everyday and have no shed in the yard to work, unbelievable.2 days ago that had only clouds I was fixing car breakdown.

  • Dtr 125 1997 Rebuild/Restoration

    2 Votes
    16 Posts


    Yeah, i got that. That was me being funny 🤕 …
    It’s wet here. Fukin wet…

  • Dt 125 r,re,e?

    0 Votes
    11 Posts


    Did you try leaving it under tension? Then heating the swing arm ‘knuckles’ either side? The chances are it’s going to be the bushes inside seized to the bolt. Either that or the bolt ballon’s with rust in the centre were it passes through the engine, thought that would allow some small movement…

    Hotshot is spot on. A good solid frame is unicorn shit nowadays. You can get cases (with numbers 😜) and swingarms all the time…

  • Bogging out

    0 Votes
    4 Posts

    Thanks for the replies will look at it at let you know

  • This topic is deleted!

    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    No one has replied
  • Made a carbon fiber chain cover

    2 Votes
    1 Posts
    No one has replied
  • Made passenger footrests

    1 Votes
    5 Posts


    I'll be ordering a small piece of CFRP prepreg to form a chain guard next. I found a place that sell "test specimens" that just so happen to be exactly the size I need, for about £6.

  • Diferent autolube covers

    0 Votes
    8 Posts

    @Hybrid_Theory01 the early ones up to 1998 had the 'shell' like cover. 98 on was the flat cover due to having a different oil pump. For this reason there is 2 different throttle cables available.

  • what it this orange wire on my CDI?

    0 Votes
    13 Posts

    @SpookDog yes I have that Wire connected to the Key switch, my interest is to keep the on off Button, i Will rewire it to the black and white cable, even tho it really doesent affect the Spark since the aditional resistance is insignificant