@watersbarry20 Is it second hand? Try putting the old one back on to check the lights are working… Did you cure your misfires?…

@FloWolF Once you start getting crap in the carb, it can only come through the tank. I can’t run my bike for any length of time without an inline filter. Getting a decent quality small one is the problem…

@HOTSHOT-III Thanks. Well that's not on the cards at the moment, I spent all my funds buying the bike and getting it on the road heheheh. I'll likely see if I can borrow my buddy's garage, prop it up in there and do the full tank and plastic off job to get it off then I can clean it and refit more at my leisure. Will also give me chance to drain the tank and check the tap filter, but to be honest 32 years old or not, this hasn't been used much and appears well looked after so that's probably all quite clean. I used to love doing shit like this, I'd dive right into an engine blind/no books or internet and tear it down and rebuild with basic tools, but I'm fooked now, body rather beat and enthusiasm almost dead and buried, heheh. Cheers again!

@SpookDog Hey bud it was done and tested a long time ago. I haven't updated my thread,I have progress but I need one more thing to clean and provably will post 100 success in fixing.

@Hybrid_Theory01 As long as it’s on!…

@watersbarry20 Hi bud!… Water pump seal for grey oil. Crank seal for black smoke (coolant is white) If the plugs are fouling up I’d imagine it’s the seal like you replaced. It’s all to easy to damage the seal while fitting. Especially if using a screwdriver! Only the very outer 1mm can take lite taps, anything inside of that will destroy the seal. One of the ‘rings’ on the collar is supposed to be there. It’s what the lip of the seal fits into. There’s often another where it’s been turned around. Check your radiator level. Water in the oil can only come from the pump seal. They can be a bitch to remove and replace… PS What’s a ‘left canny’?!…

@Carl-Kennedy There’s someone in Portland Dorset who makes looms for just over £200. I’ll dig out a link… Here’s one: CLICK ME Here’s the one. You’ll have to contact him about the year tho Click Me

That's great, many thanks

I took 2 weeks off and rains heavily everyday and have no shed in the yard to work, unbelievable.2 days ago that had only clouds I was fixing car breakdown.

@crm2090 Did you try leaving it under tension? Then heating the swing arm ‘knuckles’ either side? The chances are it’s going to be the bushes inside seized to the bolt. Either that or the bolt ballon’s with rust in the centre were it passes through the engine, thought that would allow some small movement… Hotshot is spot on. A good solid frame is unicorn shit nowadays. You can get cases (with numbers ) and swingarms all the time…

Thanks for the replies will look at it at let you know

Thanks! I'll be ordering a small piece of CFRP prepreg to form a chain guard next. I found a place that sell "test specimens" that just so happen to be exactly the size I need, for about £6.

@Hybrid_Theory01 the early ones up to 1998 had the 'shell' like cover. 98 on was the flat cover due to having a different oil pump. For this reason there is 2 different throttle cables available.

@SpookDog yes I have that Wire connected to the Key switch, my interest is to keep the on off Button, i Will rewire it to the black and white cable, even tho it really doesent affect the Spark since the aditional resistance is insignificant

@Calum Sorry that i didnt say i meant the dtre

@primal-carnage Never used anything but the OEM looking silver levers to be honest. Keeping cables clean and well lubed will make the biggest difference. It's a messy job so wrap a rag around the oiler and another one round the other end of the cable but well worth it; even a brand new un-lubed OEM clutch cable is slightly stiff and feels like the clutch lever can't quite keep up with your fingers as you release it. And a cable which has been lubed will last over twice as long. https://www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk/search.php?search=cable+oiler

@primalAnyone put one on there DTr and still have the link-carnage last one i got was a cm to short to reach the clutch arm if there was 1cm more thread i would of been laffin

@primal-carnage For the clutch? You may have to mock fit an old front brake pipe and measure it properly after you’ve routed it ‘comfortably’…