Subcategories

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• DTR

  DT125R Owners Build

  241 5k
  241 Topics

  5k Posts

  C

  Biggest update yet had a friend come over which has way more knowledge then me, original main yet is somehow too big for the bike so 240 is actually 1.3mm when we put main yet drilled to 1.2mm bike ran great but was missing a little notch we will have 1.25mm jet by eveninng and that should work properly will see still has small issues idling
• DTX

  DT125X Owners Build

  33 438
  33 Topics

  438 Posts

  S

  Hmm I did already, anything else I should check?
• DTRE

  DT125RE Owners Build

  45 643
  45 Topics

  643 Posts

  S

  I've got an update. It's been a while since I've got a new stator but there is some inconcistencies in the service manual. Before I mentioned that the resistances reading match the manual. But that's regarding the values mentioned in the troubleshooting section. I'm referring to page 8-11 in the ignition section point 7. source coil resistance. There they mention 192-288 ohms which was where my old coil was within. That's over both source coils if I'm not mistaken. However the new coil has different resistances. And those actually match the values in the manual on page 2-8 general specifications - CDI source coil. There they specify both resistances: 730 and 600 ohms +-20%. So it seems there is an issue in the manual but also my old stator matches the troubleshooting value and the new one the ones in the general specifications... Regarding the old measurements. It turned out that the voltage in the traces above are the same for the two coils in series as well as for the small one alone. The big one actually outputs 0V so there is definitely a short under load in the bigger coil. Regarding the new coil. I measured both independent and I got a sine wave with 90Vpp (peak peak) for the smmall and for the bigger one around 460Vpp. So way more than before. If anyone is interested in the scope traces I can upload them as well. So I decided to just give it a try and it worked just fine and I've got spark again!! Buuuuuut.. the first test run, after roughly 50km I lost the spark again. Turned out that the stator got that hot that the solder liqifyed and all the cables detached from the source coil.. Also the stator tooth touched the flight wheel at some point since I saw some scratches. So I thought that's the cause why it overheated. So adjusted everything a bit and resoldered the cables and it worked for some time now without scratching and overheating. Until yesterday.. after some time going up hill the bike just turned off again and barely started again. I just made it home. Today I've checked it again and one cable was again detached from the coil. Now I'm thinking if the overheating was the root cause all the time which might also destroyed the old coil. But this leads me to the question what could cause this overheating. Could it be that the engine generally runs too hot? Does anyone have a clue what it could be?
• TDR

  TDR125 Owners Build

  25 352
  25 Topics

  352 Posts

  C

  Well sounds like a fantastic purchase. I thought I recall the 3SH models being quite sought after and sounds like a good buy for the money. Sadly Imgur is blocked in the UK so I can't see the images right now, I'll have to have a nosey on a VPN. Yeah, there is an okay aftermarket scene for tuning, anything that'll fit the DTR engine will fit the TDR engine. It's the TZR 125 (2RK???) models that had different engine setups, but the TZR Belgarda shared the same platform as the DTR.
• TZR

  TZR125R Owners Build

  8 202
  8 Topics

  202 Posts

  Y

  Frame looks same bottom end on tht looks like the dtr engine I have my 4hw has no cover over the oil pump and has some kind of make shift bracket for the oil cable. Looks like they chopped my frame and put a heavy duty swingarm on for that 4DL raised the coolant tank and put bat under the seat. Thats why I asked cause surely the 4 wires from the engine are the same or do I have to change the flywheel coil bit of forget its name now. I think i'll give it a bash as I got to remove the engine anyway if the mountings are the same and it wires up maybe I can put a DT rear sprocket on. Food for thought ive got to get the energy to get at it first i'll look over that cdi wiring diagrams thing you shared and go from there just hope the exhaust mounts dont throw it out of whack. I'm hands on so once got all the parts in sight i'll hopefully make sense of it all feel free to leave suggestions etc like I said before wish I had someone here to help me out going to be fun though so hopefully will give me more incentive.
• Other

  Other Builds

  63 2k
  63 Topics

  2k Posts

  C

  Probably worth mentioning, as you can see in the background of this photo, I have managed to acquire a fully supermoto setup for this machine as well. These come off the Aprilia MX 125. Since I'm running an MX rear end, that should be simple enough to swap out, but the front end shows some challenges. The MX125 front wheel uses a digital speedometer, so swapping out the front end means losing the speedo. Instead, I managed to find a brand new old stock MX front rim, and I've also managed to source an RX125 front hub, so I will look to lace the RX hub onto the MX rim, thus retaining the original speedometer configuration. The rear wheel is in poor condition, the hub has snapped in several places, but I managed to find a brand new old stock MX rear hub, so the plan is to lace both wheels and have an easy to swap out setup for both road and trail riding.