The earthing detail is the part that trips people up: tying the brown wire to a good ground and isolating it at the connector is what makes the single-diode setup behave. On the flasher, a proper LED unit matters as much as the diode, since a stock thermal unit won't see the lower current draw. I'd also add a quick check with a meter after soldering to confirm the diode direction before buttoning it up. Curious whether the same wiring split holds across both your 2005 and 2006 harnesses.

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@R3L3_89 OK not what I was thinking, but very interesting. Never seen anything like that before… It doesn’t look like any kind of method you could use for precision tuning though…

@DanRacing Nice work. :thumbs_up_light_skin_tone:

Clutch arrived today so all fitted and no issues reassembling, my best guess is old clutch contaminated or distorted although not to the naked eye. Will start tomorrow and check all is good, bit late tonight and don't think my neighbours would thank me at midnight! Fitted complete kit with new steel plates and springs so should last a while hopefully.

Good to know I use the one on fowler's parts. https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk

Don't you have paperwork? I'm going with 2000 dtr

The rpm isn't magical at all. Works exactly the same way as the speedo does. It measures flux, usually one pulse per ignition and translates that to rpm.

@jimmydc98 You can buy universal fat bar clamps mate which connect on to your current yolks to allow them to use fat bars! If you do a quick search on eBay for Rfx fat bar clamps you'll see what I mean