This is how I got my indicators working with all LED bulbs and the dash bulb running LED also. It has flashing both sides with turn signal working. Firstly, you need to order some 1N4005 600v 1A General Purpose Diodes IN4005 1N4000 DO41 here is the link for them on ebay below. They are 99P for 10 but you only need two for this to work. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131581867356?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
First you need to remove the rev counter and pull out the bulb holder for the indicator turn signal and see what colour wires arre. On my bike they are green and brown. I then trace the wire to unplug the wire connector.

Then you need to cut the green and brown wire and strip all ends ready for soldering.

Then tin/solder all wire ends.

Now you need to cut down the legs on the diodes you bought and solder to the green and brown wire at the plug connector end, with the white ring on the diode end free, as they only work one way round

Then you want to twist the two diodes with the white ends together.

Next you need to solder the other end of the green wire you cut earlier that goes to the bulb holder, to the twisted ends of the diodes.

Now you want to heat shrink all ends of the wires so they are not touching together, and are now waterproof.



Now you need a piece of wire, I used some black wire, to solder to the brown wire coming from the bulb holder as this is now your new earth.

And you need to heat shrink this to to make it water tight.

I then soldered on the other end of the black wire to the earth lead on the side light.

Now you need to heat shrink this to again, make it water tight.

Now you have completed all the wiring you now need to replace the dash bulb with a LED t10 501 and all indicator bulbs with LED bulbs and also replace the flasher unit, and all indicators will flash with no problems and the turn signal on the dash will work as normal.




Video to show them working.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJ5elMVHo70&feature=youtu.be

Here is a parts list with links from ebay that I used to change all bulbs to LED...

LED indicator bulbs £3.29p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172277898860?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=471098948306&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
10 501 led bulbs for all dash bulbs £2.18p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371769588902?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
10 10 x 1N4005 600v 1A General Purpose Diodes 99p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131581867356?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
1 x Motorcycle LED Indicator Relay Flasher Unit - Yamaha OEM Block Type £9.95p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231464921051?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
stop and tail bulb £1.35p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361099925968?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
side light T4W/BA9S LED Car Light Bulb 5 SMD-5050 White 12V £2.15p
I will update any information on bulbs if I find any better bulbs. I hope to change headlight bulb soon as found a LED h4 bulb that has the same light pattern, as a standard h4 but waiting on this to arrive and test before I say if its any good.

@Alastair mine is a french inport too great bike spent little money on it getting brakes replaced and top end rebuild but nether let me down and been great fun

finally got the brakes done back and front new discs pads and hoses and new fluid seems so much better than they were thats for sure made me relise how bad they were but dont think it helped that the back caliper was sezied on the sliding pin so caliper was not moving strange that the person who had the bike before had done lots of work on the bike before has had new pistons and seals in the brake but forgot to grease the sliding pins just goes to show you can never trust all the paper work for work done if its not been done properly

my reprofiled 3BN head by mick abbey tuning is done and looks great just need to get it back and fitted now

you want it working and not pinned just make sure it flush you can try sitting further back on the seat to as that will help but as i said with it set right you will see the diffrence mine comes up from pull away and im 16 stone and tops out at 85 on the clock so im sure yours should do the same if running and set up right

if you pin the power valve you will have no bottom to low end pull just top end pull and need to rev and slip the clutch to pull away where as with the power valve servo and working it will pull at all ranges if you remove the reed switch it will help with top end dont think it makes much diffrence on pull away as the power valve open at 6000 revs

sorry could not find the pictures on the comp so got some new ones

i had mine done by mick abbey last month was £35 turnaround was 3 days not had time to fit it yet as work is still manic

hi mate i got mine as a french inport and was in good condition and all seems fine you will have to get it insured on vin number only before you can regester it but make sure it got a nova registrastion number as you will need this too mine has started to rattle on the top end so think it going to need new piston and rings at some stage but thats the joys with these bikes

@Mightyman good luck mate

welcome aboard @terry-tz

welcome aboard @castrolsniffer

Welcome aboard

nice clean bike there

welcome aboard

welcome aboard @Bentley

hi ricky welcome mate

hello my name is neil and got myself a 2001 dt125 inported from france looks to be in great condition few little bits to sort out the the front fork gaters had a few of these when i was younger for field use
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab46/britshgigolo/IMG_2031_zpst0xrx47e.jpg

keep up the great work mate the forum is a source of information for everybody

i dont know much about exhaust to be fair only everyone says dep are the best buth rust like hell thas why i stayed with the standard pipe and de risticked it

i find with the dt they can be a pain and the vacume kit works wonder especialy if replacing hoses and master cylinder

there is a post in the build thread where someone has fabricated a bigger ally rad to fit the dt

been looking for a new one but seems they not made anymore and hard to come by

this may help to as im running all led bulbs in the clocks too and was having the same problem with the indicators it down to the the bulb in the dash as the wire is both live and earth depending what side is flashing
https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/613/led-indicators

been trying a few things as could not work out why this was happening and then started to search the intenet and came across a few articals with same problems then found this site https://matchlessclueless.com/store/led-indicators/led-indicator-diode/
wich gave me the answers

right the problem with the led indicators and just led indicator bulbs is the dash signal that causes the problem as it uses feeds from bth sides so what is happening is the power is going back down the other feed where they split and causes both sides to flash you can buy a kit for this but after reading up its just two diodes that is needed 1N4005 600v 1A General Purpose Diodes 99p for ten so have ordered them and will get them fitted and let you all know the out come but you will still need to change the flasher to stop the fast flash problem

well looks like i been a dick as did not read the amendments at the back of the haynes for the newer type stator so turns out that mine was ok all along well got a spare now for a rainy day

i got the 65w bulb and fitted but not tried it yet in the dark but looks lots better than the standard bulb but time will tell

im sure yours is 2001 same as mine it should have a 240 main jet as standard and mine is in use every day for work same as yours i change oil and plugss once a month and all has been fine

cant wait to get it to try it out as got new cylinder waiting to go on as well

just spoke with Mick Abbey and he charges £35 to do a 3bn head money well spent

Well think I found the problem the piston was catching the head gasket it has been bored to its limit so should of checked really but hope now it will be all ok give the bore and head a light skim to make sure it had not warped but all seems ok so fingers crossed this time will go ok when I get time to put it back in

@Calum yes I know striped the threads don't know if they were doggy to start with so re tapped to next size up and now I know they good just thought I would mention incase it meant something

I have put on new barrel and 3bn modified head by Mick abbey with new piston and rings so this is going to be sent off to put on shelf once done for next time funny as have all the paperwork with bike to say had full rebuild with parts list/bill but looks like the piston was to small for the bore as got play in it it started the ticking noise about month or two after I got it

yes ty got it done wife pick up a clutch cable from local shop on way home from work it not a great one as as buy the same cable on ebay for £7 but still have othr one coming that i ordered so no big problem it did slide back in and the seal seems to be holding and not leaking oil so will have a spare but at least its back on the road again thanks for all the help

Well have ordered the slinky slider as mentioned above but will get a spare to put in the shed so will order a genuine part the other problem now is the clutch push rid has lifted and leaking oil so have ordered new seal as well so will get it striped down and sort that out ready for new cable to arrive

thats the noise that has just started on mine i thought it was in need of a top end rebuild so will be following this as would be good to find out what is causing it and hope sombody can answer your question as must be driving you mad after all that work

Hello does anybody know the length of the cylinder head studs as away from home and need to order some studs next size up as got a couple of threads stripped so going to get some turned to standard m8 125 pitch for the head nuts but m10 into the cylinder its self so just need the length please of what goes into cylinder and what’s left for the head nuts many thanks

i changed it back last year as it had turned in the holder and fail he did say bring it back when i replace it to set it up but not had time but it due again next month so will find out but the led buld is supose to follow the same beam pattern as normal bulb

i run a led bulb in mine fo over a year seems ok and not had problems with on coming traffic

@NINJA sorry should of read your post before commenting on calums yes thats what ii was looking to do just did not know what rims to look for as did ask a couple of mx shops and they said it cant be done on a dt not very helpfull really

@Calum hi mate what rims am i looking for as spoke with a couple of mx shops and they say there cant be done but im sure i had read on here of people lacing rims to dt hubs or is it better to just get diffrent wheel any help would be greatfull

@Glynn123 said in tubeless rims:

rim bands

i thought the rims were not suitable for tubless because the sides are not deep enough to hold the tubless tyre thought there was a diffrence in rims between the two

well all i can do is try this till i find some rims that will except tubless tyres not having much luck at the moment contacted a couple of shops but they say they dont know of any rims for a dtr so the search continues but thanks for all the information good or bad can only but try till i find a soloution many thanks neil

@finnerz89 yes i did buy some slime yesterday and added to the new tubes and tyres so got finger crossed that it helps out

im riding from thurrock to bishop stalford so it county lanes and towns im running michelin heavy duty innertubes 4mm i think and sirac tyres at about 28psi and had three punchers so far at it now grating on me waiting for the recovery van never had problems before i started doing this journey and they new tyres and tubes as well could just be bad luck put thought tubless tyres have got to be better as could plug them to get me home

hi im looking to change my rims so i can run tubeless tyres as doing 400 miles a week at the moment for work and tonight was the second time i got a puncture and had to be recovered so im thinking if i can run a tubeless rim and tyre i could carry a tyre plug kit even if it just to get me home so am wordering if this can do done and what is needed any help would be greatful neil

welcome aboard

welcome aboard mate

i find with the dt they can be a pain and the vacume kit works wonder especialy if replacing hoses and master cylinder

welcome aboard

#calum i cant remember what ones you told me to get last time was it the c3 or non c3 when it came to bearings sorry to be a pain lol

cheers mate did think best to go with the athana kits but then thought i would ask peoples thoughts first to be clear

hi im going to be rebuilding a engine and wanted to know whats best for seals as im ordering the bearings from simplybearings i noticed they do oil seals as well or is it just best to go with the athana seal kit for the extra money whats peoples thoughts and experiances

fowlers part number is 93306-30556 and on this page it shows this part number 3rd one down just joined up
http://www.athenaparts.com/eng/products/view/4827/bearing-6305ri-koyo
so might be worth ordering a set to see if they match up but looks promising

looking on the this website http://www.athenaparts.com/eng/models/view/4453-section-25/yamaha-dt-125-r-re-x it looks like they may be the size with out measuring a set of bearings it hard to say but if they are the right ones will save people some money or maybe i will order two and see if they will measure up to the spare engine i have in shed as did not keep the olds
Main Bearing MS250620160YYK Bearing 6305ri - Koyo
Dimensions 62.00x25.00x16.00

i have a set my self just thought i would post up to see if the numbers matched i have searched the web and only found forgein page relaing to dtr but could not read it

i know this is old but did you find the right bearing number as think they might be this 6305r1sh29tcs35 but only got this nuumber from listing on ebay and maybe sombody that has changed them can say if they the right ones if so will work out a lot cheaper if they the right ones but they are the one pictured

@Calum hi mate i have to have the steering look for the insurance and i do have chains and 4 disc looks but was only in the house couple of minutes so i was lucky the steering lock saved me as it sounded the alarm but normally it well locked up i was ust lucky this time round have lost bike before so know all the shit it causes and pain that some prick has stole it

@NINJA ty i got one ordered today and managed to get old one out with to much effort so just waiting for the new one to turn up as would rather have the steering lock fitted as saved my bike this time as the alarm went off while they broke the steering lock just same i could not catch him as would of been doing time i think it really boils my piss that these pricks think they can take what iis not theres and would not mind but he thought twice as he was taunting me then relised i was coming at him like a freight train and decided to run and jump on the back of another bike but i would reconise the drive again so hoping i will bump into him on my rounds

been looking for a new one but seems they not made anymore and hard to come by

yer it a 2001 dtr125 model and the steering lock is on the frame

sombody trid to steal my bike to day but caught them before they got away but they steering lock has been snapped so need to replace just looking for advise as to best way about going at it i need to drop the yoks as the sreering is stiff so need to find out why as bike is shaking when riden home fornt end shaking tried to search the forum but the search is not working for me so any help would be great hope you all had a great christmas and happy new year to all

or run a led bulb set up as had the same problem on mine so converted all bulbs to led and thats worked a lot better for me

@Calum ty kind sir thats a great help will get them ordered many thanks

hi im looking for some advise came off my bike last week on the ice was only going slow only damage was handel bars are slightly bent and folks twisted in yokes have sorted the folks and now wheel is running straight to the handle bars but looking for new set of bars and not sure what to buy as they all have diffrent bends in them looking at the rentha chart anybody know whats best or closest to standard as really unsure many thanks neil

happy new year to one and all hope you all had a great christmas

ok thank you for the quick reply

can any body tell me if the dtre 2005 speedo is the same and fit the dtr 125 2001 i have as mine is in km an seen a couple on ebay in mph and was thinking of changing them

@oldman thank you i have changed the head light bulb to a led h4 philips lumiled as well but not tryed it in the dark so dont know what the rusults will be had to use the old bulb base to fit into the light as they diffrent to standard h4 bulb but with a dremel was easy to do

@Spanners welcome aboard mate

im getting 97 miles to a tank

welcome aboard mate

welcome aboard

welcome aboard

welcome aboard mate

i had the same problem so used a 22mm straight copper pipe fitting then silicon hose and has not leaked since hope this helps

this may help to as im running all led bulbs in the clocks too and was having the same problem with the indicators it down to the the bulb in the dash as the wire is both live and earth depending what side is flashing
https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/613/led-indicators

my bike is running all leds apart from the headlight and they all working ok i have got a led headlight to fit but not had a chance to try it out yet but will update the thread when i found the right quality bulb

welcome aboard mate and dont worrie im 45 and love my dt owned it for 8 months now

i changed my reeds to the ebay crbon reeds and my fuel consumption has droped a lot on full tank so must be somthing in it

welcome aboard mate

well after going to work this morning the silencer was to hot to hold onto so yes my exhaust and silincer get hot but only noticed this on a roads

must admit never felt the silencer but will check when i get to work tomorrow morning but have melted many rubber conectors now have made pipe longer so silencer and exhaust dont have the slight gap and use a silicon hose reducer and have not melted and poped anymore conectors

i dont know much about exhaust to be fair only everyone says dep are the best buth rust like hell thas why i stayed with the standard pipe and de risticked it

im running standard sprocket set up as standard as did not want to lose top end as use a roads as well

you will notice the diffrence once dep is fitted too

im sure yours is 2001 same as mine it should have a 240 main jet as standard and mine is in use every day for work same as yours i change oil and plugss once a month and all has been fine

yes reed switch is taped up under the clocks out the way and it got standard exhaust on front derestricked and dep silencer

you want it working and not pinned just make sure it flush you can try sitting further back on the seat to as that will help but as i said with it set right you will see the diffrence mine comes up from pull away and im 16 stone and tops out at 85 on the clock so im sure yours should do the same if running and set up right

with power valve set up right you will feel the diffrence and with a few more revs it will pop up as when it hits 6000 revs the power valve will be fully open so make sure power valve is set right and plenty of revs it will come up no problems

if you take exhaust off you can see the power valve and feel it its at the top turn on the ignition and let it do its cleaning cycle and it should rest fully open so when you slide you finger into the exhaust opening it should be flush and smoove at the top if not you need to ajust the cables till it is and then you check again buy turning off ingition and back on so it does cleaning cycle again till it right if that makes sence

opps that was not good and bet it painful

if you pin the power valve you will have no bottom to low end pull just top end pull and need to rev and slip the clutch to pull away where as with the power valve servo and working it will pull at all ranges if you remove the reed switch it will help with top end dont think it makes much diffrence on pull away as the power valve open at 6000 revs

there is a post in the build thread where someone has fabricated a bigger ally rad to fit the dt

the way i read it the were only opening the exit side of the ports and not the piston side so not really port timing but thats my take on the artical and some things are best left to those that know whaat they are doing for a small price as lots can go wrong

@Mightyman good luck mate

found this on facebook thought i would drop it here for others to browse over as may be of use to someone
http://motomodel.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/how-to-enlarge-two-stroke-ports.html?m=1

Ty hope it helps other having the same problems with LED indicators on there DTs or any bike/car with the single turn indicator dash bulb.

This is how I got my indicators working with all LED bulbs and the dash bulb running LED also. It has flashing both sides with turn signal working. Firstly, you need to order some 1N4005 600v 1A General Purpose Diodes IN4005 1N4000 DO41 here is the link for them on ebay below. They are 99P for 10 but you only need two for this to work. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131581867356?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
First you need to remove the rev counter and pull out the bulb holder for the indicator turn signal and see what colour wires arre. On my bike they are green and brown. I then trace the wire to unplug the wire connector.

Then you need to cut the green and brown wire and strip all ends ready for soldering.

Then tin/solder all wire ends.

Now you need to cut down the legs on the diodes you bought and solder to the green and brown wire at the plug connector end, with the white ring on the diode end free, as they only work one way round

Then you want to twist the two diodes with the white ends together.

Next you need to solder the other end of the green wire you cut earlier that goes to the bulb holder, to the twisted ends of the diodes.

Now you want to heat shrink all ends of the wires so they are not touching together, and are now waterproof.



Now you need a piece of wire, I used some black wire, to solder to the brown wire coming from the bulb holder as this is now your new earth.

And you need to heat shrink this to to make it water tight.

I then soldered on the other end of the black wire to the earth lead on the side light.

Now you need to heat shrink this to again, make it water tight.

Now you have completed all the wiring you now need to replace the dash bulb with a LED t10 501 and all indicator bulbs with LED bulbs and also replace the flasher unit, and all indicators will flash with no problems and the turn signal on the dash will work as normal.




Video to show them working.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJ5elMVHo70&feature=youtu.be

Here is a parts list with links from ebay that I used to change all bulbs to LED...

LED indicator bulbs £3.29p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172277898860?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=471098948306&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
10 501 led bulbs for all dash bulbs £2.18p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371769588902?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
10 10 x 1N4005 600v 1A General Purpose Diodes 99p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131581867356?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
1 x Motorcycle LED Indicator Relay Flasher Unit - Yamaha OEM Block Type £9.95p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231464921051?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
stop and tail bulb £1.35p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361099925968?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
side light T4W/BA9S LED Car Light Bulb 5 SMD-5050 White 12V £2.15p
I will update any information on bulbs if I find any better bulbs. I hope to change headlight bulb soon as found a LED h4 bulb that has the same light pattern, as a standard h4 but waiting on this to arrive and test before I say if its any good.

@Calum cant wait t get it fitted normally work dies off over christmas but not stoped yet hoping for a week off at some stage to get it all fitted

@CYBER-NINJA cheers mate

@CYBER-NINJA !

finally got the brakes done back and front new discs pads and hoses and new fluid seems so much better than they were thats for sure made me relise how bad they were but dont think it helped that the back caliper was sezied on the sliding pin so caliper was not moving strange that the person who had the bike before had done lots of work on the bike before has had new pistons and seals in the brake but forgot to grease the sliding pins just goes to show you can never trust all the paper work for work done if its not been done properly

will get pic up next week when i fit the new rubber boot as all back together no its the one that the caliper slides on you have to lift the caliper up to slide it off the pin/bolt its the one thats fitted to the mounting bracket if that makes any more sence but will get pic as soon as rubber boot turns up

finally had a day off on friday so started on fitting the new brakes rear caliper was seized solid after two hours of dash and heating and finally putting it in a vice and tighting it up with a bar got it to move slightly and then got it free buggered up the slider boot seal and ordered a new one but cant find the slider bolt/pin has a allen head to tighten it up does anybody know where or if you can buy new ones looked all over and cant see it listed on parts drawings

anybody know the lengh of the bleed niples i know they are M7 x 1.0 but not sure of the length any help would be great

been trying a few things as could not work out why this was happening and then started to search the intenet and came across a few articals with same problems then found this site https://matchlessclueless.com/store/led-indicators/led-indicator-diode/
wich gave me the answers

right the problem with the led indicators and just led indicator bulbs is the dash signal that causes the problem as it uses feeds from bth sides so what is happening is the power is going back down the other feed where they split and causes both sides to flash you can buy a kit for this but after reading up its just two diodes that is needed 1N4005 600v 1A General Purpose Diodes 99p for ten so have ordered them and will get them fitted and let you all know the out come but you will still need to change the flasher to stop the fast flash problem

ok mate ty

no this is the standard dtr unit

@Calum did you find a led bulb to fit in the indicator turn light on the instument panel

ty for all your replys and help so will stay with what i have ordered as i know they will never be racer brakes as standard but with the all new parts and lines they got to be better than they are now thats for sure again thanks for all the help and advise

so have i made the wrong move with EBC disc as now worried as was looking to get better brakes i know they will never be the best but that we live with if we want to keep or dts looking standard as we can with out changing wheels what about brembo are they better than EBC

@CYBER-NINJA i did look at these but ordered the EBC disc and pads now with braided hoses so hope they work out ok when the come as was not sure what was best so my thinking was there pads are good so hopfully the disc will be the same fingers crossed now lol but will look into the dot 5 fluid like you say what is the diffrence in the fluid

hi im looking to replace my front and rear disc and add braided hoses is there any prefrence to whats the best ones to use was looking at the Wezmoto Standard Braided Brake Lines as like that i can get the banjos in black stainless to look more like the original and the disc and pad was looking at the This listing is for a single EBC Brake Disc Rotor (Front or Rear as per listing title)
Included with the disc is one set of matching EBC Brake pads that are recommended for use with the disc by EBC
or should i be looking at other disc as not sure best way to go so thought best to see what others are using and prefer

keep up the great work mate the forum is a source of information for everybody

i see this on face book and laughed but im sure there has been plenty of people do it over the years

cant wait to get it to try it out as got new cylinder waiting to go on as well

my reprofiled 3BN head by mick abbey tuning is done and looks great just need to get it back and fitted now

just spoke with Mick Abbey and he charges £35 to do a 3bn head money well spent

ty for the speedy reply and help