Just fitted the same as Darty, looks loads better! Definitely need a matching brake one now though

Also fitted this

Had the bike in bits for the late few days, forks have been stripped, bottoms powder coated and rebuilt with new seals etc and heavier oil.

Fitted kickstart conversion as well while I was at it.
That works a treat, had to strip the clutch again though as I made a slight error when rebuilding it, all good now though.

Also removed the chain, cleaned and re-waxed it, new spring clip for that too.

Next job is to make a new chain guard!

Oh yeah fitted a new front fender too with graphics.

I think that should go on one of the regulator mounting bolts. Under the RH side scoop

Most 4 stroke bikes use the same oil for engine and gearbox, so any bike oil will be fine.

But car oil is a no no as it has additives in that will make the clutch slip.

i got my trailtech vapour from http://www.trailtechproducts.co.uk/

If you tell him what bike you have he'll sort you a kit even if its not listed. I went and collected mine in person and got it VAT free

So as the weather's been nice and all the fair weather riders were out i went for a little blast after work. Took possibly the longest route possible without going in the opposite direction to Matlock bath for a brew and fish and chips. Quite a few nice bikes about, a nice RD125LC pulled up as I was leaving.
Anyway here's my bike when I got back!

Tweaked the idle speed when i got back and adjusted the chain, happy days!

I doubt it will make any difference. There's a few slight differences between models but the main reason the pipes are different is the later bikes have a different tank and air scoops that foul the earlier exhausts.

Here it is the day after the rebuild at Squires:

Another vote for the vapour Speedo from me

Yeah you need a new relay.
R6 relays are plug and play and cover higher wattage lamps

@nottsbiker I thought regulator mount, looks like the one on my DTX. Either way anywhere on the frame should do

What he said^

I've got a full dep system on my bike, standard jets and close to manual screw settings. And it runs fine - I thrash it everywhere!

I even did a 20mile run at 70 on the M1 following someone on an FZ1, I was really paranoid all the way down so I pulled the plug and it was spot on colour wise.

Scratches on the outside shouldn't be an issue. However the notches on the inside of the fingers will cause a notchy clutch action and potentially drag.

You could sand them back smooth and see what happens, I did it recently on one of my other bikes and it's made the clutch buttery smooth

No difference in peak power, but using the servo you'll get a broader range, so you'll have better low and mid range. Obviously it depends on exactly where you've pinned your power valve

Engines love cold air, just wait until you're riding on a nice crisp, foggy morning then it'll really sing!

That's looking sweet!

What crash bungs are they?

@perithtv I've been there too. They'll be coming out once a year and regreased from now on

Cheap Chinese carbs definitely a bad idea.

Where is the fuel leaking from exactly?

You could just let it run out I guess. Why do you want to?

If it's stuck in the engine have you tried loosening off the other engine mounts? Might give everything a little bit of wiggle room

@calum would be great to have a go at something like that!

@calum haha a good diet is worth at least another 10bhp

@calum yeah. The way I've always checked to see if a clutch is slipping is roll off the throttle in fifth or top, then snap the throttle back open. If it's going to slip then that's when it'll do it.
With a 2 stroke it's obviously a bit different, hitting the powerband would replicate that though I guess.
Much higher load on the engine in the higher gears

@Spanners Are you sure your clutch isn't just slipping?

I get about 100 miles till reserve

@Calum saves on pads and discs lol

Sounds like the start of a good night to me, on my way

You can go into a pub at any age, you just can't drink until 18. Although with a meal accompanied by an adult I think you're allowed one.

Headset bearings I used a long m20 nut and bolt with some packing washers etc, pulled straight in that way.

And wheel bearings I used a heat gun and then an aluminum drift I think. Might've even been timber actually. If you get the hubs warm enough then they don't need much encouragement at all. You can also freeze your bearings for 24 hours before fitting.

@terry-tz reminds me of a Goldie Lookin' Chain song

@calum most speedos (cars included) read 10% over as I'm sure you know.
I've seen plenty of claims about 100mph but I'm yet to see one with a GPS or genuine corrected speedo, hence my pessimism lol.
I'd love to be proven wrong I just highly doubt it

If I see a DT do a genuine 100mph I'll buy a hat and eat it

@calum true, I spell check our breakdown log at work on a daily basis as it does my nut in!

I thought his bike was running previously so assumed the carb had gummed up between his top end going and him fitting the new engine.
Definitely something simple I think.

@calum grammar Nazi alert
I get you though mate, my pet hates are "defiantly" instead of definitely and the usual their, there, they're all mixed up!

@ricky0115 As for the only running on choke issue, maybe get the carb stripped and ultrasonically cleaned at a shop? Cost me £30 when I rebuilt my bike

Still sound restricted to me mate. Who moved the reed switch?

Good to know I use the one on fowler's parts.

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk

@zrako heavier fork oil has improved mine no end

@NINJA if you've put fresh coolant in an empty system you need to bleed it though

What wattage lamps have you used in the indicators?
When I changed mine to higher wattage i got the same symptoms you're describing.

Nope. If I'm putting the bike away for any length of time I just turn the fuel off and run the bike till it stops. Stops anything getting gummed up.

I also only run premium fuel which is cleaner anyway

@louis-james looks fuckin sweet dude. Interested in the toolbox, I was thinking of something similar. It's dead space under there!

@ricky0115 not likely, still requires a lot of force

I use Silkolene Comp 2 Plus

The holy grail would be the RS250, RGV 250 lump in a proper modern frame with good brakes and suspension. Serious weapon that

The 2 stroke rally at squires in September is always good, I've been the last 3 years. But that's near Leeds so probably too far for some people

That looks awesome mate. Bet it corners like a dream now!

+1 on the vacuum kits.

I've only just got one and now I'm wondering how I got on for so long without one lol

@declan pretty sure that all the years are the same. Might be wrong but you could check the part numbers on fowlers to double check

@calum great film!

@calum I was assuming he'd figured out the screw thread part already lol

https://imgur.com/zi9671n

@declan haha DTs are heavy? My Caponord weighs over 250kg with a full tank!

@NINJA good man! Same here

@NINJA just remember to use premium fuel as the ethanol in cheap stuff can distort the plastic

Looking sweet though

@NINJA yeah get someone else to do it

@calum I've had 2 bikes with hydraulic clutches, recognised the cylinder lol

@calum hydraulic clutch?

I fitted pyramid parts headstock bearings, they seemed good quality from what I could tell. Probably one of the better non-oem parts manufacturers

@bananper exact same part number

Yeah in my Haynes manual it tells you to measure the width of the engine and use shims accordingly.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121818139155

I fitted these to mine

I've got a stock Yamaha joint at home, of you want it you can have it for postage. I'm away till next weekend but I can send it when I'm home

Have you checked the adjustment of your oil pump? How old is the silencer?

Stock pipe has washers welded inside on earlier models, the newer ones have a cat which is very restrictive. I've never heard of any restrictions in the rear pipe, they do however require repacking periodically so fitting a new one would make a difference

@Calum they did an aluminium one too, I've got one sat in my shed. Unfortunately doesn't fit with my DEP pipe

I reckon you need a new tyre fitter lol

The rim and the hub will have to have the same number of spokes yes! Lol

@declan it's not the same as balancing after a new tyre mate

@britshgigolo let's hope so

@glynn123 30mpg in the car is the dream

@sgt-robuck-5 I think gaiters look shite lol

Another difference to note is that the RE is electric start (hence the 'E') whereas the R is kick start only.
You can retrofit a kickstart to the RE so you end up with the best of both worlds

Snowflake alert

Welcome! I'm in south Derbyshire

@tunertom the fan on my triumph is behind the radiator, as is the one on my aprilia.

Brown wire is a switched feed from the ignition. You can take it from anywhere.
See attached pic, I'm not sure what model code your bike is but all the DT diagrams I have, have the same wiring.

@BlueMoto yes I've got one on mine. Works a treat - bit of wiring to do and I made a mounting plate as the one you get with it is a bit naff.

Not a huge job though

Yeah definitely should be a plug in there. 1 or 2 cables for the starter solenoid (to spin the starter) and then 1 or 2 for power to the rest of the bike

Well it's connected to the loom so it must be there somewhere lol

So you're saying you have no starter relay?

Which houses the main fuse and supplies power to the rest of the bike? I reckon you need to find that and fit it

I've got wezmoto too. Recommend them to anyone

I think most people probably just fit braided lines as they look and perform better. Over time the OEM hoses will start to degrade but realistically 6 years is probably quite early.

Replacement washers for the coolant and gearbox drain bolts?

Howdy folks

Owner of a 2007 DT125X, I'm also a member on the YOC so you may recognise the username if any of you are on there.

I'll try and stick some pics of my bike up tomorrow when I'm on my PC.

Paul

Once the bike is warm the choke should kill it

@Calum I completely agree. He didn't even check the spark plug? Could be running really lean, has he checked the cooling system?

I know from when I first fitted my clear oil lines that at idle the engine uses a minuscule amount. Even with the oil pump pulley fully rotated (maximum output) I reckon it took a good minute or two to fill the lines up to the engine. Which is what, 3 inches of 4mm hose?

All I've done to my 'X' is earth the wire and a full DEP exhaust. -1 tooth on the front sprocket as well. Went to a 2 stroke rally at the weekend, everyone kept asking me what I'd done to it, expecting big bore kits etc

Gearbox oil is 10w30 engine oil, or lightweight gear oil of the same rating. As long as it's suitable for wet clutches you'll be fine. I've just put this in mine

Castrol Power 1 Engine Oil 10W-30 4T, 1L https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0064YM5PO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CZrQzbRKNBQ3M

As for engine oil, I use Silkolene, others swear by cheaper oils so I guess that's up to you.

Fuchs Silkolene Comp 2 Plus 2-Stroke Engine Oil 1 Litre https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071DP83WW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t0rQzb5EV2CVX

And coolant, I use premixed coolant suitable for aluminium engines. Given the price and small amounts of gearbox oil and coolant needed, I'd change them yearly, but every other year would be fine I'm sure.
Engine oil usage depends on how you ride, as more throttle=more oil used. Unless you're running premix. I can just about squeeze a litre of oil into mine once the light has been on for a few miles.

Hope this helps

Without hearing it, I have no idea. But it is a 2 stroke so probably to be expected and probably nothing to worry about.
It's not like it has valves and cam chains to worry about

@vtrn_raptor so it does start without choke? I can't make sense of what you said mate.

If it starts from cold without choke then it's 100% too rich

@calum I've had 12k a couple of times. Earthing that cable transformed it

I'd check the adjustment of the clutch lever just to be sure, but I think you'll be fine
Have you tried blipping the throttle when going down the box? Might make it a bit smoother

@Zrako I've got an electric start will be retro fitting a kicker at some point though. I know people fit stock YZ ones

Have you tried fowlers?

What wheels are they? Look similar to the ones I've got on my Mini

The main issue is getting at it to drift it out. The frame rail is in the way unfortunately

Should push out from the other side. I had this problem and in the end resorted to cutting it out and buying a used relay arm.
The bearings were rusted solid on mine

What's the spark plug look like? Have you checked/cleaned the air filter? Is the exhaust blowing?

Did you rejet or adjust the carb to suit the big bore kit?

@BlueMoto yes I've got one on mine. Works a treat - bit of wiring to do and I made a mounting plate as the one you get with it is a bit naff.

Not a huge job though

@NINJA maybe you just didn't use them right worked a treat for me

@NINJA do you have any experience to back up your broad sweeping statement?

@britshgigolo let's hope so

I used some of that anti puncture fluid on my old Suzuki - you have to take the valve out then fill the tube, valve back in and inflate. I don't think either tyre ever lost air between then and selling it

This isn't what I used but it's similar.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F133033492866

Had a YSS on an old bike and it was sound. No experience of the others I'm afraid

You can also get studs in 2 sizes. I.e M10 at one end and m8 at the other. Might be worth having a look at those

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283442339692

@NINJA I think my trailtech kit cost me around 130, how much is a replacement from Yamaha?

I'd go aftermarket - I can recommend the trailtech vapor

+1 on the vacuum kits.

I've only just got one and now I'm wondering how I got on for so long without one lol

Weird
None of my bikes have numbers on the exhausts. Never had a problem with MOT's

@NINJA if you've put fresh coolant in an empty system you need to bleed it though

Did you have the rad cap off when kicking it over?

Yeah I recommend an inline fuel filter

@NINJA won't fit my bike and I've got one thanks

@Louis-James mine needed fettling to fit and some spacers making up and the finish was shit so had it powdered.

Hopefully they've copied a stock one for those so should be fine

That's a good find.

Let's hope better quality than the Chinese one I got off eBay for my DTX lol

I'd definitely try some fresh fuel

I had a similar issue on an old bike, the clutch arm operates like a rack and pinion, the arm being the pinion part. I had to engage it further down the rack to get the full range of movement. It's spring loaded, I hope that makes sense lol.

Looking good

@Louis-James hmmmm

@Louis-James another thought, is the light in the clocks led? Try disconnecting that if it is

@Calum definitely transforms the bike. Changing the gearing helps as well, I'm 1 tooth smaller on the front sprocket. Revs really nice now. Might get around to the zeel one day

Definitely 4 in mate, and 3 out. I put a ring terminal on mine and earthed to the frame. Same thing. Black with a green stripe

If the lamps are standard my money is on the relay. Try disconnecting one and see if you get a flash then.
Is the switchgear new?

You need to remove the rev limiter to get more out of it.
Do a search on here there's plenty of info on how to do it

Snowflake alert

Stuff inside the engine cases I always use loctite. Last thing you want is a screw coming loose and rattling around your clutch or something.

External stuff I don't bother so much, as that's easy to enough to spot and rectify.

My DT sounds really loud to me riding it, but like @Calum says, it doesn't carry. I've seen videos of me riding past someone and you can barely hear the bike lol

I know the DTX springs are progressive, so if you found a set of them they ought to fit

Some heavier oil will help, but a fork conversion is probably the way to go

I've got some eBay specials on mine, they were listed for the DT230 but fit ok.
Might fit the DTR as well?

Yeah definitely should be a plug in there. 1 or 2 cables for the starter solenoid (to spin the starter) and then 1 or 2 for power to the rest of the bike

Haha great idea

That's looking sweet!

What crash bungs are they?

Well it's connected to the loom so it must be there somewhere lol

Does your bike have a headlight relay?

@Bananper a plug? 4 connections in it?

So the wire you checked the continuity of, I assume is the power to the lamp? What about the neutral connection?

So you're saying you have no starter relay?

Which houses the main fuse and supplies power to the rest of the bike? I reckon you need to find that and fit it

I doubt it will make any difference. There's a few slight differences between models but the main reason the pipes are different is the later bikes have a different tank and air scoops that foul the earlier exhausts.

Engines love cold air, just wait until you're riding on a nice crisp, foggy morning then it'll really sing!

@NINJA good man! Same here

@NINJA just remember to use premium fuel as the ethanol in cheap stuff can distort the plastic

Looking sweet though

@Bluestoesonnose it's a reed switch, that limits your top speed

It takes fresh air from the air box and routes it into the exhaust. As stated it's for emissions and doesn't affect performance either way.

If it comes off again don't run the bike as you run the risk of running seriously lean like that.

@Irongamer727 looks reet to me

@NINJA sleeping pills in a bit of steak. Job done on that one lol. Nothing is foolproof unfortunately

Nah, you're just used to trail bikes and not road bikes lol

@Calum saves on pads and discs lol

@Calum I completely agree. He didn't even check the spark plug? Could be running really lean, has he checked the cooling system?

@Irongamer727 injection

Nothing better than the sound of a throaty engine on overrun I do it on my 4strokes, sue me lol

I know from when I first fitted my clear oil lines that at idle the engine uses a minuscule amount. Even with the oil pump pulley fully rotated (maximum output) I reckon it took a good minute or two to fill the lines up to the engine. Which is what, 3 inches of 4mm hose?

@Louis-James similar colour to my cases! Looking good dude

Lol if you want ticking sounds then you should listen to my triumph
Get a loud exhaust to drown it out

Sounds like an inline 4 to me. Is the cct hydraulic or mechanical?

@NINJA yeah get someone else to do it

@declan do you use it on the road?

@2Stroke4Smoke you've never looked at mine then lol

@2Stroke4Smoke have you tried knocking them round with a hammer and small chisel?

M8 on my bike lol. When you say M12 or M14 do you mean the spanner size?

@bananper exact same part number

@bananper yeah slightly. The damper is also different and the spring has bigger coils and is wider if that makes sense.

DTX and DTRE are the same. Check the part numbers on fowler's.

DTR shocks will fit but they are different in every dimension

@declan jealousy doesn't flatter you

@calum lol mines bang on too

Sounds like the start of a good night to me, on my way

@calum I'm like a hawk mate

Am I the only one who's noticed the chunk missing from the pressure plate? Lol

I'd like the know where the missing piece went

Chrome or nickel plating might be worth looking at

@ninja if they've been threadlocked, then you need to warm them up to melt it. Will come out easy then

Fucking awful music as well at the start!

@bananper polish it back or replace it?

Put up a pic so we know what you mean

DTR pipe is a really tight fit due to the tank and plastics being different on the DTX. A Big One pipe wouldn't fit mine, although someone on here got away with it

You can go into a pub at any age, you just can't drink until 18. Although with a meal accompanied by an adult I think you're allowed one.

You could just let it run out I guess. Why do you want to?

Do you mean get rid of the oil pump and run premix?

@irongamer727 I don't think so, if it were me in the market for a bike I'd rather buy stock or close to it and do the work myself.

Other people might feel differently but that's my 2p

@bananper yes. Line up the slot with the hole in the casing and leave it be

Or if you want to do it properly take off the exhaust and make sure it's flush with the exhaust port.

@jamesrandall93 sounds like your carb needs cleaning to me

I get between 50 and 60 mpg on a long fast run so I reckon 90 is achievable riding like you said.
Mines derestricted as well, plus 1 tooth less on the front sprocket

@glynn123 30mpg in the car is the dream

Or GPS app on your phone

@calum I've had 2 bikes with hydraulic clutches, recognised the cylinder lol

@calum hydraulic clutch?

@irongamer727 not a clue, they look very similar. Maybe check fowlers, they might have the same part number?

@irongamer727 no, but having good guide bushes will lol.
It's not about the up and down movement it's whether there's any free play from side to side

Carbon wrap maybe the way to go I think.

Cheers fellas

@rolz82 I use 10w30 engine oil. Make sure it's motorcycle specific though or you'll have clutch troubles.

I have this in atm
Castrol 15042E Power 1 Engine Oil 10W-30 4T, 1L https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0064YM5PO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XOsYAbYMCYJ1H

@jens-eskildsen bit of both. Definitely want some aluminium, windshields would be a bonus as well

@calum had them on another bike minus the LEDs. I like the carbon though!

Can anyone recommend some for the DT?

Pics of what you have fitted would be handy (no pun intended)

If it's stuck in the engine have you tried loosening off the other engine mounts? Might give everything a little bit of wiggle room

Still sound restricted to me mate. Who moved the reed switch?

@calum would be great to have a go at something like that!

An rs250 would be sweet as. Great project if you do go down that route with your 125.
Weren't the RS250's the Suzuki lump anyway?

I might go for either a tdr250 or the R1-Z

@calum I'd love a 250 next. Something to keep as an investment but to use as well

@declan I'd recommend the smaller front. 1 tooth less on the front should make a big difference mate

@calum haha a good diet is worth at least another 10bhp

@declan @Calum yeah with my gearing mine pulls up to 75 nice and quick. 75 corrected that is

My bike did that after rebuild, plenty of revs and drop into 1st with the back brake held on. Should free off ok

@sgt-robuck-5 I think gaiters look shite lol

@glynn123 already a full SM setup so not worth the work

@sgt-robuck-5 I've got a DTX so it never had any in the first place

@calum I'm not 100% on the looks, but it's a damn sight better than gaiters.

I'm thinking lather the forks in acf50 then put them on. Considering the (dry) miles I do it shouldn't be an issue either.

@irongamer727 it's all experience mate

I always remove caliper first, cable tie it to the rad mount or something then you have plenty of room

I've got wezmoto too. Recommend them to anyone

I think most people probably just fit braided lines as they look and perform better. Over time the OEM hoses will start to degrade but realistically 6 years is probably quite early.

Good to know I use the one on fowler's parts.

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk

The more expensive pipes he makes are stainless so they would definitely last longer than any other aftermarket pipe out there.

With the hole being where it is you could be running lean, but if it's only small then it probably won't make a difference

Replacement washers for the coolant and gearbox drain bolts?

@calum great film!

@calum I was assuming he'd figured out the screw thread part already lol

It's only a push fit, maybe it's rusted in? Try soaking some WD40 into it

One of my originals was faded, I put it down to that side being parked facing a window or something.

Definitely should be bearings in there

@declan once the bolts are out, the sleeves should push out by hand.
However it sounds like yours might need pressing out. It's the relay arm by the way

That looks awesome mate. Bet it corners like a dream now!

I reckon you need a new tyre fitter lol

Also fitted this

Had the bike in bits for the late few days, forks have been stripped, bottoms powder coated and rebuilt with new seals etc and heavier oil.

Fitted kickstart conversion as well while I was at it.
That works a treat, had to strip the clutch again though as I made a slight error when rebuilding it, all good now though.

Also removed the chain, cleaned and re-waxed it, new spring clip for that too.

Next job is to make a new chain guard!

Oh yeah fitted a new front fender too with graphics.

Looks like you have more experience than most with different ratios lol.

I've got a polisport halo on mine. Seems as good as OEM if not better

Once the bike is warm the choke should kill it

I've got a stock Yamaha joint at home, of you want it you can have it for postage. I'm away till next weekend but I can send it when I'm home

@Calum they did an aluminium one too, I've got one sat in my shed. Unfortunately doesn't fit with my DEP pipe

Sunping? Sounds like a Chinese knock off?

Here's my vapour:

@Calum I feel all warm and fuzzy inside now

@declan haha DTs are heavy? My Caponord weighs over 250kg with a full tank!

@Calum I did whatever it said on the cover, couldn't remember off the top of my head

When i built my bike back up i put 850ml as per the manual. Took it for MOT and when i got home it had spat a loud of it out of the breather! I drained a fair bit out after that. Reads in the middle of the sight glass now

Is your starter still running?

Welcome! I'm in south Derbyshire

Have you checked the adjustment of your oil pump? How old is the silencer?

It's the same cable whether you wrap it around the HT lead or wire it up to your coil. I went with coil as it seemed more reliable and accurate. Had the bike stripped at the time so it was no hassle to do.

@Calum is that with the zeeltronic?

No problems with rev counter on mine, it's wired directly to the coil

Temp sensor that fits inside the radiator fin. I might get one for the plug and wire them through a switch

https://imgur.com/zi9671n

Running a vapour on my DT. Homemade mounting bracket

What he said^

I've got a full dep system on my bike, standard jets and close to manual screw settings. And it runs fine - I thrash it everywhere!

I even did a 20mile run at 70 on the M1 following someone on an FZ1, I was really paranoid all the way down so I pulled the plug and it was spot on colour wise.

Stock pipe has washers welded inside on earlier models, the newer ones have a cat which is very restrictive. I've never heard of any restrictions in the rear pipe, they do however require repacking periodically so fitting a new one would make a difference

Here it is the day after the rebuild at Squires:

i got my trailtech vapour from http://www.trailtechproducts.co.uk/

If you tell him what bike you have he'll sort you a kit even if its not listed. I went and collected mine in person and got it VAT free

Howdy folks

Owner of a 2007 DT125X, I'm also a member on the YOC so you may recognise the username if any of you are on there.

I'll try and stick some pics of my bike up tomorrow when I'm on my PC.

Paul