This topic is made for exhaust fitment to different models (R/RE/X).
You can post what experience you have with fitment and then i add to the list.
Correct me if im wrong with something.
I put an Athena expansion chamber on my 2003 DE03 DTR and while it works great the fitment was terrible.
Up front I had no problems putting it on the exhaust port.
The first screw bracket was about 5 mm too far back - no real problem because the console it is screwed to is itself held by a screw, so I could just loosen that up and get the threads in. Tightened it last.
Then the second screw bracket - the rubber lined hole - was 10 mm too far back. Ended up removing the metal inserts and apply physical strain on the rubber to get the threads to take.
Then the rear end of the pipe was more than 10 mm too long, so when I attached the (stock, original) silencer I basically had to jam the pipes into each other. The Athena was slightly thinner so it went inside the silencer pipe with some force. But I could only fasten the rear silencer screw, the front is way too off.
Since the Athena pipe is thinner than stock, the rubber tube thingy that is supposed to seal the joint did not tuck on snugly. Put a hose clamp around it.
I plan to remedy things with a hacksaw and file in the near future, but at least the exhaust system works well. A bit zingy sound, not overly loud, and it revs to 9700.
The paint job was not too impressive either. It looks good, but the paint layer seems thin. I may add a coat of something if I only manage to figure out what type of paint to use.
Expansion chamber S410485300007:
How do you roll cones?
Curves are made by sectioning bits together, see pic at bottom…
Can you Tig weld? If you’re going to do this you may as well use stainless steel…
Romeu Henrique stainless exhaust fitted with no issues whatsoever except I opened up the front mount hole to fit rubber bushing…
@SpookDog I can tig weld but I use scratch start since I don't have a real tig welder, this one works fine with steel, it's just harder without fancy controls. I'm not really good with stainless and it's more expensive, my friend works in a nearby factory where they only laser cut mild steel.
Cones aren't a bad idea, there's a software called cone layout, it might be worth trying
You are absolutely going to have to use cones. It’s the only way to go from one diameter to another. Making the proper flat plate is one thing. But rolling a cone I can’t get my head around imagining how it’s done. I suppose I should Google it …
@SpookDog It's not a big deal to rent a slip roll, it's the fact that there's a lot of opportunity to screw everything up with that many welds. Think I saw one guy make a hydroformed pipe out of 2 parts then he cut the forms in a couple of pieces to rotate in position. Could be easier with less welds
Sweet. I’ve just pictured a slip roll and it makes sense!
I’m guessing that a hydro former is something to do with water pressure inside while bending to stop it kinking/deforming? Like when they stuff a pipe with sand then bend it to try and keep the internal‘diameter’ the same?…
Edit: is area a better word?…
@SpookDog It's important to bend edges and weld around them autogenously because thicker welds can lead to kinks, this guy did that for a scooter pipe, he just screwed up the measurements https://youtu.be/DVeoDNHGEc8?feature=shared
Yeah, and it's important to make sure there's no air in the pipe so it doesn't turn into a bomb