Still waiting for the wheels as you can see, exhaust almost finished, but did fit some graphics, comments welcome

Get a yz frame

Wheels on and everything remitted,rear brake bled and c&s fitted all good (at last) Maybe down for mot next week if I have time.

Fitted the exhaust, and the bodywork first fit. Ordered missing original bolts, should be my last order hopefully. All panels new but r/h panel over exhaust a bit scratched. Need to try and polish out. Stickers next!

Pictures in the sun in all its shiny glory, and a picture of the twins together

Engine completed and awaiting return of frame from powder coaters then down to serious work. Have most of parts now bar one panel, c&s, brake lines/pads, master cylinder/calipers rebuild kits, etc etc................

Received the final graphic in the post this morning, can say the 88 is complete (for now!)

Taken for mot, first time on the road following rebuild, all ok, no advisories. Oil seal on power valve letting by, have a new one already so just that to do and road tax

Decals to do as well, originals.!

This is my gransons pw50 (now a 60cc) rebuilt engine with all new seals, stripped and cleaned shaft drive, new cables all round and carb ultrasonic cleaned (rough!), new 60cc barrel and piston, exhaust new, loom connections cleaned and protected. Pulls my fat arse around the garden, definitely fitting restrictor as grandson has habit of trying to reach top speed everywhere.

Phoned up about my wheels, due ready today, delay as front spokes wrong when delivered, bummer! Could be ready later this week if I am lucky. Have ordered some tkc80 tyres from Pneus (auto spell changed that to p*nis!) online that came in at £90, inner tubes on way, just need rim tape and my mate to get back from holiday to fit the tyres. Had a slight weep on expansion tank connection behind side panel, surprised as new hoses, remade and that seems cured. Ordered some 88 graphics as well, have to hide the bank statement when it comes

This is my dt250 circa 1997, sold it to move house but still regret selling it, would love to restore this one. Had no garage at house then so all had to be kept outside.

Finished engine on the 89 bike, waiting for water pump spares now to fit cases. Hope to get frame down for powdercoating next week then I can start to put it all back together.

@calum said in The Helios Project (Aprilia RS 125 Rotax 122):

For you perverts out there, the chassis is now rolling!

I was going to drop the engine in, but a friend needed my Jack, and I kinda wanna build that separately. Will make maneuvering the bike a little easier as well.

Lovely job that Calm, you must be pleased with how it's turning out, looks awesome, very impressive

Asbestos! You are kidding! Buy some self adhesive heat reflecting foil readily available on ebay, used it on new side panels, easy to do.

@declan said in any been out in the snow guys:

@terry-tz my poor dt is that cold the clutch cable has froze

Back when I was a boy had a fizzy where the throttle cable froze, used to have to bump start and in the morning down a side street the bloody thing took off out of my hands. Went down the street on its own missing all the cars, only casualty was a clutch lever.

Fitted the EBC red stuff pads, braking now what it should be, even the back brake! Brakes best they have ever been, and so they should be with braided lines and new fluid. Worth all the effort rebuilding the calipers and master cylinders. EBC pads get my vote, can only assume old pads were contaminated along the way. Luckily the discs weren't glazed, running better now with the power valve seal done as well.

That's the exhaust on and the rack fitted, looks better with the rack imho! Lack of wheels a serious p### off now, can't think of anything else to do, desperate to get on the road.

Seems that time of year where the lowlife creep out from under their rocks is here. Had an unsuccessful attempt to gain entry to my garage, without going in to too much detail the barrel of the first lock has been snapped out, fortunately lock still would not open without key. Would have been pointless anyway as multiple locking on garage door. Always careful and never have door open when I am working and never leave bikes outside in plain view, wary of anyone following me home also.
On a positive note had a decent ride this evening covering over 50 miles on mainly country roads and along the seafront with friends. Garage door is now securely fixed and will be looking to install electric roller door asap.
Take care

A quick intro from me, owned my dt for around 13yrs, rescued from a back garden having been sat there for 7 years. Made road worthy when I got it but finally got round to starting nut and bolt restore to original (almost!) when my knee decided to get arthritis about 2 months ago. First registered in 1988 so very early, fitted the power valve when I first got it so that's done, not looking for power increase, have big bike for that. Have received many requests to sell over the years but always resisted and no intention of doing so, parts searching keeping me busy as red ones seem rare to get bodywork for, finally tracked down some red handguards this week . Anyway, thats me, and any info I find I thank you for.
Paul

@GoProKid95 looks a cool bike, the graphics are smart, suit the bodywork. Haven't seen them before, not in your face!

Good looking bikes, saw an rd 125 at a vjmc summer show and brought back memories! Have been following the forum Declan/ Calum, just been busy with new shed. Almost complete, just skirting boards to finish and CCTV to install. Have been collecting parts ready to rebuild the endurance blue Dt as well, need rear mudguard, left rear panel and front right scoop to have complete bodywork if you have any museum man?

AND even they don't do a red one!

I bought a kit and refurbed carb, not difficult if you take your time, doesn't take long

Doesn't sound right to me either, especially for that money for a non runner. Would walk away personally. My mate has just sold his ktm for not much more, full working order and serviced. Used to do enduros but making room for a white dt

@NINJA said in Dtre 125 autolube help please:

@itstom Carb For future reference some carb cleaner would have been a better option.

Even carb cleaner destroys o rings, can get oil pump refurbed if needs be, or s/h off eBay?

@Calum said in GoProKid95's 2006 DT125RE (Supermoto Conversion):

Aww I'm sorry it got robbed!

Always heart breaking to see that.

Looks like a lot of hard work was put into this as well!

It's not a proper DT until it's been stolen

also check operation of water pump, when warmed up and thermostat open you will see turbulence with the RAD cap off, take it off prior to warming bike though as pressure could be present if you don't. Put my 88 bike right back to standard with 210 main jet and standard exhaust, Calum is far more knowledgeable than me on the carbs so agree air leak or similar could well be making your bike super lean but need to check what's the setup of your new carb. If you confirm all is well with that rules a lot out. Good luck!

Yes

6.8mmvia Haynes manual, enjoy!

This is my beloved grandsons pw50, bought in the summer as " yes mate, it's fully rebuilt and sweet as a nut!" Bullshit, " it's rough as old dogs balls but I have done enough to get it running while you are here!"
Being an old bastard I knew the truth but it was local and cheap(ish) so bought it anyway, the truth is it spills oil faster than BP and is a pig to start. Finished new shed /workshop so stripped it down fo rebuild to get a clear garage for the 88 rebuild asap. Barrel worn and carb has more crap than Jonathan Ross, but hey ho, have new seals and barrel/piston to go on so should be straight forward, but feel the urge to powdercoat wheels and frame before it goes back together. At the current rate of growth of my grandson he will be taller than me before I finish!

Bored this evening so decided to go the full hog and mirror polish silencer, looks better in real life if you know what I mean.

Here's the welded exhaust refitted, nice and shiny!

While my mates bike was here he asked if I could alter exhaust outlet as covering back of bike in 2 stroke deposits, made a spout out of 25mm stainless and just have to send for welding, hopefully this week if I am lucky. Everything else done, oil pump seal replaced and ready for action!

Been busy lately actually riding amongst other things, collected my 250mx yesterday after electronic ignition and 12v conversion completed. Used my bike to develop the ignition kit which is why they have had it a while, will be riding at the end of the month when my insurance renewal is due (not giving them an admin fee for a few weeks waiting)

1st picture recovered seat, 2nd picture old seat foam.

My guess is the tube will be stretched to fill a larger profile than it was designed for, making the whole weaker and more prone to failure. Personally would not use it like that, for the sake of a new tube why put your safety in question? Sorry to put the kibosh on your day but would always be at the back of my mind when riding if it was me.

You run the chance of overloading the loom and components running both simultaneously, would not do personally

Taken me 12 years roughly to get going on the 125!!

Rode my red dt last evening and the comparison with the white bike with Galfer front disc was surprising. In every other respect the brake systems are exactly the same with identical pads, but the white bike had far more bite on the front. Not everyone wants to spend the money on a Galfer disc though, the standard set up is best described as adequate and no more even with quality pads. The Galfer disc improves things no doubt but don't expect superbike levels of braking, just much improved imho.

@jens-eskildsen said in Carb overflow:

Theres just about only 2 things that can make it overflow.

1. Floatheight. If its too high, the carb will overflow before the float makes the needlevalve shut of.
2. Needle valve/seat. If one is worn, or the oring sealing the needleseat to the carb body is worn, fuel will still leak eventhough the float is adjusted properly.

Or there is a split in the overflow pipe

Thanks, I am going to follow that. Not sure if my bank manager will thank you though

Its not a genuine dt unless its been stolen at one time or another, thief magnets

Expect some part has become attached to magnetic flywheel. Need to remove and inspect, never heard of pickup coming loose though? Live and learn eh

Turns out it's the oil pump case seal, easy fix, no worries!

@claws said in Dtre 125 autolube help please:

@oldman i mix the 2 stroke oil with the gas. i use a 2% mix and not need to worry about autolube. works great

It's petrol! Not gas

Hello, post a picture of your new hobby, welcome

It is almost Halloween:)

Can I ask where you found the 3et engine. Getting an itch I need to scratch! 3xp would be nice too

@declan spring can be removed, early model you will probably need spring compressor, later model back off pre-load nuts fully should be able to remove securing ring of top of spring bearing plate and gain free movement of spring to remove lower bearing plate and remove spring, don't lose securing ring of top plate! My early shock bottom mount shot, 1st s/h replacement worse, 2nd one excellent. Spring diameter changes over years.!
With spring removed you can check compression damping also

@mhbikesnbits like the valve cover!

All done now with rebored 175 barrel, will be getting it175 head for it as dt one plug offset, waiting for new air filter then a road test at the weekend, easy enough to do and only need to change main jet on carb.

If you think the pump is at fault replace or you can get rebuilt for around £50. Comes back as new. As Calum said underlying issue needs to be resolved. Have you cleaned the carb and set it up? Too good a bike to get rid of, or I will take it off your hands for a nominal fee

@calum good idea, will be making use of this in future, thanks Calum

Took my test on a full power dt125lc back in the day, examiner had no idea what bike it was (no stickers!) Passed though, foggy as hell and he couldn't see me, followed in a car no chance, only thing he witnessed was the emergency stop.

Ouch! Thought running rich would just cause excessive fouling?

@declan I have used them but I try and refinish as many original bolts as possible leaving a fair few unused, being able to buy exactly what I need would be more cost effective. Also experienced mixed quality from eBay also

Thanks Calum, always good to have somewhere cheap to buy stainless, have previously used ebay but end up with a range of unused sizes, will be able to just buy what I need now.

Pardon?..

All fitted,just as well, UPS never turned up with the new one from csm l, then sent email saying I was not in when delivery attempted at 4.59. Bulls##t! I was working on bike right by front door! Long story short coming Saturday after phone argument, driver tried to deliver to no 5, I live at no 9. Every fk'd up delivery I get is UPS, even their app is garbage. Bike starts and runs fine, a lot easier to fit carb as well with the correct inlet.

PS, I'll be round for a test ride on that rs one day!

He's had a go around the garden and was going faster and faster and faster, called a halt while I fit throttle restrictor and take him to my mates garden where there's more opportunity to tear up someone else's lawn. He was well chuffed, got to start them early!

I will take some hi res pictures for you Calum, just pop it in my garage and I will get round to it!
Looks terrific btw, fantastic job done

I would gladly help you with fitting the engine but I bet you live miles away, would love to see that in the flesh!

Impressive Calum, you do like a challenge! A lot of effort gone in to your project, looks terrific

@calum said in The Helios Project (Aprilia RS 125 Rotax 122):

@oldman We had some numpty this week walking around trying to open car doors, it was 10 O'clock at night...thieves are just getting lazy.

Mate I've had my DT stolen before and it's not nice. To be honest, posting pictures up of my build up here is risky enough.

It's a shame that that's the world we live in. Best thing about this build so far is that it's inside my bedroom. But eventually it'll need to go to the garage,

Yeah you know how it is, it's nice to have a variety of projects swinging around the place. I'm still waiting to see what you do with that TDR.

The tdr is next winter now, will decide what to do with it then. Need to move the 89 out but still waiting for graphics (hopefully posted today) then endurance blue 88 will be a slow burner over the better weather months, want to be out riding more this year. Not looked to closely at the tdr yet and engine to build for it (all there bar crank), will be interesting though!

You get paranoid don't you when you know people are too ready to steal your stuff, I am always as cautious as possible and always keep everything under lock and key. Have taken every reasonable step to protect my garage, building new shed/workshop enclosed in rear garden this year to kèep prying eyes away, don't even like working with garage door up to be honest as only takes someone to mention they saw a nice bike when passing and rumours spread to God knows where. Once you go to the lengths to create something special if it's stolen that bike can never be replaced no matter what. Keep posting updates, enjoying the thread!

Nice one Calum, not a cheap build then? Looks stunning so far, glad you said I could have first ride

I am considering this for the white bike, rebuilt the red bike ones already, would value opinion of someone who's already done it. Will be rebuilding the forks on the white one anyway. Did it before on a 600 and made a big difference to that, fork action much more controlled, a bit soft beforehand.
Tried increased viscocity oil first but slowed the rebound damping too much on that so next step was the progressive springs

Gonna keep him busy for a while, I am looking for a winter project now , good luck to your dad with his!

Head refurb really straightforward, just get a decent gasket set, take your time and follow the manual. Did mine while I had the engine out, takes no time really. Nice bike, gotta save these old ones

Mine first registered 10/88, red bodywork and white frame, waiting for gasket set to complete engine and get that back in the frame

Learn by your mistakes, we all do, learnt my lesson a long time ago and realise there is a time and place for everything, including riding "enthusiastically "

@NINJA used p1500 wet and dry to flatten back, then bench polisher with fine wax and mop polisher for the difficult to get at bits. Then solvol to finish. Thinking of getting the full stainless system do myself now, would do the spout the same

Gearbox oil fine, had faulty pump seal allowing 2stroke oil to fill gear oil, that's fine now and had all new crank seals. Exhaust off for welding now but will check pump stroke when it's back. Has been running below 6k for over 400 miles (until I took it out) so expected a little excess lubrication. Oil pump was rebuilt to original spec by third party so should be set to spec, but check of stroke will know for sure. Would have gone further on ride but an incident on the pw50 bruised my coxic bone, went up a bump and didn't allow for fact suspension fully compressed at time of impact. I guess Pw's aren't set up for 14 stone seniors that should know better

Worth it imho! Dep exhaust is a baked bean tin in comparison

Have fitted Romeu pipe to 89 bike and must say impressed, got DEP pipe with crated 88 bike awaiting rebuild and finish poor. Took to platers that do my other stuff and they said it was ****, having it replated. Rust coming through on weld near cylinder mount and its never been fitted. Big One exhausts cheap and cheerful, Gianelli gets a good report from Scrim but pictures in ebay ads misleading so check part nos on the net.
Romeu gets my vote, tail pipe is cool!

I would be interested in 2, ta

@Calum love the car Calum, would love to have a two seater, get a few bikes in that garage too! Congrats on the new house also

Wemoto supply a kit for the swingarms,

Thanks gents, video was good but not glueing, I walked away and left it for a couple of hours. Went back and stretched it in to submission and a good result. Not upholsterer standard but ok, used 8mm staples and a strong staple gun that worked fine. I will post a pic shortly. Foam on original seat poor so just as well I had a spare
Thanks

Anyone with tips for fitting replacement seat cover. I hate doing them and only had one success out of three so far. End up with bloody sore fingers and frustrated to hell. 89 bike I am doing foam rubbish and misshapen underneath. Have a spare with good foam so went to fit new cover and struggling like hell. HELP!

Need to get out on it more, been busy with base for new shed/workshop

I normally drift the bearings out as well, with care obviously.

Passed mot today but runs rough at low revs and noisy with slipping clutch, another job on the list. On a plus note 12 v conversion excellent, as is the electronic ignition (remember points!)

From experience the earths are prone to fail on old looms, check continuity using your multimeter from various places. Have you unwrapped the loom around coil area? Definitely worth checking, look through my red bike posts and you will see I had to renew earth from that area. Earth cable oxidised internally and started intermittently failing and quickly failed altogether .

Does the bike have the round slide or flat slide carb? Looms differ markedly over the first 2 years and early looms have separate ignition control relay from cdi.

As said check the earth to the headlamp, even run an independent earth to it, old looms suffer badly on the earthing side. Osram nightbreaker for me

There is a float on the sensor stem in oil tank that activates oil light when oil level falls to predetermined level

Anyone know if you can remove the trip reset knob on the speedo without breaking in to speedo? Managed to pick up another speedo with very low mileage but knob missing. This is for the next rebuild and don't want to ruin a good speedo if I don't have to.

While I have the panels off investigated engine cut out when put in to gear (89 bike). Started with checking neutral and sidestand switch and both were fine. Checked all wiring and visual inspection showed no fault. Tested sidestand wiring in loom for continuity and black earth failed, removed loom tape to show photo 1 and tested continuity from sidestand connector to there (approx 100mm) and still a fail. Tried using insulation test set at 240v (cdi disconnected just in case) and still a fail. Cut out soldered joint and stripped back insulation to affected cable and copper core completely oxidised, wrapped 20mm of oxidised cable around test probe and still unable to get continuity or result on 240v insulation test. Stripped back about 50mm and complete core oxidised as per photo 2. These are the problems faced dealing with ageing looms probably at the end of their design lifespan, similar problems with loom found on 88 bike previously. If someone made new looms I would snap one up, as it is have replaced cable and remade joint properly with heatshrink protection.

Maybe the odds be forever in your favour! Seriously though whatever you do, if someone wants it bad enough they will do anything to get it.I am paranoid of prying eyes and do as much as possible to keep my stuff private and out of sight.

It was a lucky guess Calum, three wires in that joint, one to regulator rectifier and other to ignition. Could be what caused my reg/rec to fail last year. Thankfully seems to be fine after testing, could have been a disaster thinking about it. Just got to refit and put back together, thanks for advice. To be honest could not tell loom had been opened before or would have had a look last year when I was cleaning the loom up. Should not have to worry about it now.

Wire corroded back under insulation , had to cut back about 25mm both ways, stripped loom tape back and found another poor join. Just testing loom through now, badly cut about, and poorly repaired before. Glad it came to light now tbh, would hate to be doing this in the warmer months, had an unexpected cancellation today hence able to repair now.

Have been following the forum Calum, just silent (for a change!) Have not started anything else as intend to enjoy the warmer weather riding a bit more, and need to get on building new storage shed.

@scrimsmustang where do you find these bikes! Like to see a pic of the black dt though.....

Interesting Calum, remember the Japanese 2 strokes first time around, the Aprillias were focused and personally never saw many at all. Did meet Chas Davies years ago when he was a spotty oik , if memory serves his family owned a mini moto track and a friend of mine had a son heavily involved in racing. Have been lucky enough to end up stood on the grid (at Donnington I think,) as his son raced in bsb supersport. He also had cracking brolly dollies (am I allowed to say that?) Have had a lot of big sports bikes, rode like an idiot a lot but lived to tell the tail, and to be honest the thought of a near 200 bhp sportsbike now would make me *** myself no matter how much electronics were in control. Am enjoying my riding much more than I have in years riding the lightweight 2 strokes and would like an lc or rd in the future, can understand the appeal for you and hope you pop some pics up in the future.

All done, fitted back to bike and no more overflow. Just surprised as unexpected failure, not seen anything similar before, but you learn something new every day

This is the after picture, used acid flux to clean crack, then soldered with soldering iron and all seems ok, fingers crossed. Not the neatest job but dont want to disturb pipe in carb body.

Top post, enjoyed following that, good job done.

Going to keep I as original as possible within reason, the original exhaust is long gone unfortunately , has front section unrestricted as good as new, need to replace rear as a grotty old big one there originally. Swingarm seal guard broke when disassembled so that needs replacing, and platers lost swinger thrust cap but Fowlers were good for that. I fitted white pattern bodywork years ago so my son could ride it without me worrying about original panels, need to get the panels and tank out of loft but need replacement r/h side panel if memory serves as original heat damaged. Getting wheèls respoked shortly and replacing bearings and seals as I go, plan to use sparingly to be honest as I am aware not many of this vintage left, but will use it, can't beat the 2 stroke smell can you! Thanks for the welcome and will update as I progress but taking my time to get the right finish
Paul

Sounds like it's seizing to me, take it back and get them to sort. Any air leaks on carb side of inlet?

Hello, wait for upload to complete before posting, love a good picture!

• 1 vote for red

Crank seal failure

It's a biography

You've read my book then.

Like many people my age have done the big bike thing up to several zx9r's and an rf 900. They were unbelievably fast but the current crop of litre bikes makes them look like mopeds in comparison. They were beyond my ability in all honesty and the temptation to use the power was always there. I was lucky never to come a cropper on one of them and the 650 I have now is more than adequate and would be my first choice for a continental tour (I wish). For a few hours out in the countryside down a few lanes content on the 125s and not as demanding mentally either as a big bike. The temptations not there to wind on the throttle or chase someone that passes. Happy to add a bit of "pep" to the 125s but no more than that, but it's a personal decision and each person's passion is different. Just find it hard to justify spending hundreds of pounds chasing a few bhp when alternative bikes are about to give that extra kick. Does not mean I will never try it though, change is good! Bike I regret selling the most is a zx9r b4 in green with a stage 1 tune (if I remember correctly), absolutely brutal and mint condition, upgraded to newer model but not the same terror when riding

I wish!!

https://global.yamaha-motor.com/business/omdo/products/dt/feature.html
Wish Yamaha would let me bring one of these in,,didn't know they were still in production.

It is almost Halloween:)

@NINJA said in 1988 bike:

@oldman These any good to ya bro???

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-DT-DTR-DT125R-Graphics-Sticker-Decal-Set-1988-Golden-Yellow/254210844464?hash=item3b3025a730:g:tcAAAOSw4WRa-cx6

Thanks for that but still not as original fitment, closer than I have now though. When the left hand graphic (genuine Yamaha) gets delivered I'll get both left and right copied along with correct white on black DT graphics. A bit OCD maybe?

Nah, there's only one scrim. Last time I spoke to him some scrote has nicked his red side panels parked up at a bike night. Cant even leave your bikes parked now. He did a blue one a while back but think he sold it on.

There you go

Problems with the stickers means that's delayed. DT on scoops wrong colour, should be white on black (have yellow on black), mid section decals all wrong, have nos one for r/h scoop and ordered l/h scoop one this eve. Will get them reproduced when it arrives so colour matches rear panel decals, pocs to follow.

That is stunning, jealous as hell!

Fitted the exhaust, and the bodywork first fit. Ordered missing original bolts, should be my last order hopefully. All panels new but r/h panel over exhaust a bit scratched. Need to try and polish out. Stickers next!

Sounds like that's running fine, good job!

In July I ordered a Gianelli exhaust and its finally arrived. When I brought the box in I thought something was missing as box was so light. Do have the original exhaust setup I had for the red bike and intended to use that for authenticity (its soaking in caustic soda as I type), but I think if this is sprayed black it's not that different in profile. It cost me £156 delivered and bar the delay in receiving it happy with that. No idea what bike will run like with it, anyone know?
I'll weigh both systems later and put up the difference.

Phoned supplier again, hes still looking for tank damper in his stock. Saw a second hand one and ordered that,hopefully one will arrive soon. Collected seat and that's perfect, taking wheel hubs for powder coating, ordered tyres (trail wings) as these were standard originally? Maybe? Anyone know!

+1 for the oil pump

Mot failure if your tester on the ball

https://www.rowanshospice.co.uk/donate/

If you want it Declan drop me a PM, have not tested but only ask you make fair donation to The Rowans Hospice if it's good, will find a link if that's ok.

Like this (marked 3rm)

Can I ask where you found the 3et engine. Getting an itch I need to scratch! 3xp would be nice too

It's difficult to find a coaters "sympathetic" to restoration as opposed to commercial work, you need an enthusiast. I rate my coater highly but even them I have returned the odd bit, but I am picky (why should I not be, I am paying). Maybe being a regular (ish) customer helps but the cost is reasonable to me, when I first went there made clear my expectations and they have accommodated my requirements. I am lucky there are several local to me but not all finishes available, need to find someone local who does anodising, would prefer that to painting my black bits.

I've only just got in, will have to look over weekend Declan, taken what Calum says let me know which one you need.

@declan
Will have a rummage tomorrow in my storage unit (swamp)

@declan said in No spark!:

Do you guys reckon the re/x stator set up would fit the dtr

Can you send me a picture of what you need? I have some spares that might help.

From experience the earths are prone to fail on old looms, check continuity using your multimeter from various places. Have you unwrapped the loom around coil area? Definitely worth checking, look through my red bike posts and you will see I had to renew earth from that area. Earth cable oxidised internally and started intermittently failing and quickly failed altogether .

Does the bike have the round slide or flat slide carb? Looms differ markedly over the first 2 years and early looms have separate ignition control relay from cdi.

Not sure of Bolt size, you could use thread sealant (petrol resistant) or a small smear of gasket sealant. On holiday and haven't been able to post all week on site Wi-Fi, bummer!

Hello, pics!

My rear was 6mm but thread stripped, retapped to 8mm x 30mm

@Calum said in Why doesn't my DT125 get a spark?:

@claws I can't remember, Did the belgarda stator also work. Cause I ran the belgarda engine on my RE ignition. Or did I swap the starter

Either way, check the electric start TDRs if they were ever a thing.

They were:) have one of those too!

I like to be helpful

Depends on what you are doing, red bike had nos clock set at zero, photo of originals at 30k for anyone interested to see. Irrelevant as all bearings and cycle parts replaced and engine fully rebuilt. Current resto has low mileage (350 ish) mileage clock fitted reset to zero, more new parts than old so far, frame is original though! Older bikes mileage doesn't count as much as condition and history.

On newer bikes the money is in parts, broken down it's profitable. Older popular bikes like the dt are the same.

I would be interested in 2, ta

@mhbikesnbits said in My DT125 80s Yz style DT200 build one to watch!:

@oldman they would have to be £30 blank no paint

If you get round to doing these I would take a couple of them, let me know

@claws said in Dtre 125 autolube help please:

@oldman i mix the 2 stroke oil with the gas. i use a 2% mix and not need to worry about autolube. works great

It's petrol! Not gas

@claws said in Dtre 125 autolube help please:

i would suggest not using the autolube and mixing the oil with the gas

GAS? WTF! Are you running on propane or natural? Petrol please!

@NINJA said in Dtre 125 autolube help please:

@itstom Carb For future reference some carb cleaner would have been a better option.

Even carb cleaner destroys o rings, can get oil pump refurbed if needs be, or s/h off eBay?

@Calum said in Whats a good carburetor for my DT125 with a 170cc athena cylinder kit?:

@claws It needs to run spot on, is my point. Even the new carb will need jetting.

I second that

But are they the correct size was my point, worth checking?

Mine have all been hard to remove and secure when fitted, have you measured it against a known original. Will promote wear in frame seat if allowed to move even slightly

@declan you have let those parts go! Thought mine were bad

@Calum said in Forum Outage:

The router at home looks like it's packed up and since I no longer live there, it is a drive away to sort out. I have got a new server for it, curtesy of @Arite. But if the router at my parents is on the blink then obviously need to do something about that as well.

I am looking into it. Will just have to bear with.

Thanks Calum, appreciate the effort you put in

Happened on my red one so a while ago, sure I used extension bar and impact driver, rotated bolt and kept lubing, was a right ba@#%&red to get out. You have my sympathy.

I put impact driver on bolt end and just kept spinning it and applying wd40, still not easy and takes a while :, leave for a day or two if necessary. Have spare swingarm end bearings soaking in diesel as we speak, Been there 3 days so far!

@declan you need to clean your bike more often

What's your guess of cost?

PS, I'll be round for a test ride on that rs one day!

All looks , can't beat a man cave!

@Walney-Reptiles had last ones done at central wheels with stainless spokes, first set done in basingstoke and took months and then fitted standard spokes, not what I wanted. Central were OK and did get small discount from bike show. Will probably send next set there as no one near me can do what I want in a reasonable time

@Calum said in GoProKid95's 2006 DT125RE (Supermoto Conversion):

Aww I'm sorry it got robbed!

Always heart breaking to see that.

Looks like a lot of hard work was put into this as well!

It's not a proper DT until it's been stolen

@GoProKid95 looks a cool bike, the graphics are smart, suit the bodywork. Haven't seen them before, not in your face!

@Calum love the car Calum, would love to have a two seater, get a few bikes in that garage too! Congrats on the new house also

Hello, what year is it? Pics?

Expect some part has become attached to magnetic flywheel. Need to remove and inspect, never heard of pickup coming loose though? Live and learn eh

Hello, that will keep you busy. Looking at the picture of your loom it looks a right mess. Have experienced earth cable faults in old looms so always worth checking for continuity and resistance. Looms are hard to come by new but you might be lucky and pick up a decent second hand one.

All done now with rebored 175 barrel, will be getting it175 head for it as dt one plug offset, waiting for new air filter then a road test at the weekend, easy enough to do and only need to change main jet on carb.

My dt is gender confused and will be transitioning to a 175 imminently, last ride as a 125 before surgery, awaiting rebored barrel to return then a bit of cleaning up before fitting 

Thanks Calum, appreciate the effort

Checked stroke of oil pump and found set at 0.22mm, OK for 3db1 model (0.20 to 0.25mm ), removed shim and Max stroke 0.17mm now, manual says 3rn1 onwards model 0.15 to 0.20. Bike late 89. Didn't seem smoky at all anyway, think running in below 6k for 400 miles left it a bit oily

@NINJA used p1500 wet and dry to flatten back, then bench polisher with fine wax and mop polisher for the difficult to get at bits. Then solvol to finish. Thinking of getting the full stainless system do myself now, would do the spout the same

try eBay France and other European sites, should find one there

Bored this evening so decided to go the full hog and mirror polish silencer, looks better in real life if you know what I mean.

Pleased with it, mates son welded for me, looks original and owner happy, that's a result!

Here's the welded exhaust refitted, nice and shiny!

Oil pump as is now, just cos

Gearbox oil fine, had faulty pump seal allowing 2stroke oil to fill gear oil, that's fine now and had all new crank seals. Exhaust off for welding now but will check pump stroke when it's back. Has been running below 6k for over 400 miles (until I took it out) so expected a little excess lubrication. Oil pump was rebuilt to original spec by third party so should be set to spec, but check of stroke will know for sure. Would have gone further on ride but an incident on the pw50 bruised my coxic bone, went up a bump and didn't allow for fact suspension fully compressed at time of impact. I guess Pw's aren't set up for 14 stone seniors that should know better

Had a ride around on it yesterday to check oil seal, back end plastered with oil spots as standard, needs deflecting to prevent fouling, oil on end drips on to brake caliper as well, they have only been running in so no high revs

Lc, ypvs 350? Tdr! Tzr? Or god forbid the work of Satan (a 4 stroke)

He's had a go around the garden and was going faster and faster and faster, called a halt while I fit throttle restrictor and take him to my mates garden where there's more opportunity to tear up someone else's lawn. He was well chuffed, got to start them early!

Had to do the same with my red bike, bought exhaust with spout cut off, made one out of mild steel

This is my gransons pw50 (now a 60cc) rebuilt engine with all new seals, stripped and cleaned shaft drive, new cables all round and carb ultrasonic cleaned (rough!), new 60cc barrel and piston, exhaust new, loom connections cleaned and protected. Pulls my fat arse around the garden, definitely fitting restrictor as grandson has habit of trying to reach top speed everywhere.

Love to see some pics Shaun

Turns out it's the oil pump case seal, easy fix, no worries!

Came to the same conclusion, he uses strawberry "smell" 2 stroke oil, transmission oil smells of strawberry's, looks like new crank seal has failed after only 400 miles, not happy.

Had a call from my pal had the white 89 saying oil coming out of crankcase breather, engine completely rebuilt previously with new con rod and seals all round. Any suggestions?

Good example of false engine no, original ground out.

straight from the hip!

Make sure you get the right loom for year, early pre 90 differ and not sure of later years, good luck with that one!

This is my beloved grandsons pw50, bought in the summer as " yes mate, it's fully rebuilt and sweet as a nut!" Bullshit, " it's rough as old dogs balls but I have done enough to get it running while you are here!"
Being an old bastard I knew the truth but it was local and cheap(ish) so bought it anyway, the truth is it spills oil faster than BP and is a pig to start. Finished new shed /workshop so stripped it down fo rebuild to get a clear garage for the 88 rebuild asap. Barrel worn and carb has more crap than Jonathan Ross, but hey ho, have new seals and barrel/piston to go on so should be straight forward, but feel the urge to powdercoat wheels and frame before it goes back together. At the current rate of growth of my grandson he will be taller than me before I finish!

Would not hurt to put fresh oil in and seals, make sure you clean all the gunk out of the fork legs, progressive fork springs would be significant improvement. If you are using new springs would keep same oil weight to start off, otherwise could be over the top. Ask spring suppliers for reccomended weight come to that

Went out for an end of summer nimble today out the back lanes on my red bike, not sure what the policy is around the country but Hampshire charge you for disposing of diy/building materials at the refuse tips. Coming round corners and finding rubble bags in the middle of the road, along with corrugated roofing, asbestos, etc is a real p off. Has been getting worse over the summer and they literally dump in the middle of the lanes, looks like car drivers have just been driving over it as well.
Ah well, winters coming, perhaps that will keep the losers in their box.

@Mightyman said in Accidental Museum:

Some lovely looking bikes here! Personal favourite is your friends TDR

I will take one of those rd's myself!

Good looking bikes, saw an rd 125 at a vjmc summer show and brought back memories! Have been following the forum Declan/ Calum, just been busy with new shed. Almost complete, just skirting boards to finish and CCTV to install. Have been collecting parts ready to rebuild the endurance blue Dt as well, need rear mudguard, left rear panel and front right scoop to have complete bodywork if you have any museum man?

Hello, enjoy

Can I come!

Sorry, didn't see your reply, my bad! Can't comment on using until repair, personally would wait, can chain failure catastrophic.

I would be interested in one of the 3mb heads, send me a pm if your OK with that. Ta

Think Honda's are known for failure of the cct, read reports of upgraded items available, not something I have had to do thankfully

Wemoto supply a kit for the swingarms,

If you think the pump is at fault replace or you can get rebuilt for around £50. Comes back as new. As Calum said underlying issue needs to be resolved. Have you cleaned the carb and set it up? Too good a bike to get rid of, or I will take it off your hands for a nominal fee

I will take some hi res pictures for you Calum, just pop it in my garage and I will get round to it!
Looks terrific btw, fantastic job done

Need to get out on it more, been busy with base for new shed/workshop

Sounds like the carb to me if it's trying to run

I would gladly help you with fitting the engine but I bet you live miles away, would love to see that in the flesh!

Me, I would put back to stock and live with that, at least you know where you are with that. If you get another barrel could be more problems and no guarantee jetting would remain the same.
But that's me.

Now I can see it! When I posted reply up came the prices, lovely!

@rollzy101 said in Is this a rare DT125?:

Hi all,
I recently purchased a Yamaha DT125 1998 Model which was first registered in 1999, from Unit5 (Imported from France)
I know this is an official yamaha colour as i've located the 1998 Yamaha Sales brochure however I've not seen anyone else online or at bike events with this colour scheme.

Has anyone else owned this colour scheme or have any photos they know off?

I'm really keen to know if this is rare, My first DT125 was a 1987 Blue & Yellow which I regularly see online for sale, however this colour scheme never seems to come up.

I've no intention on selling the bike as I enjoy it too much, when I get to drive I'm also weary of wrecking such a beautiful bike through daily wear and tear.

Cheers

Either it's a completely black bike or I can't see picture? I'm hooked now to see it!

Impressive Calum, you do like a challenge! A lot of effort gone in to your project, looks terrific

Crank seal failure

@bananper said in Best powervalve setting for higher revs?:

Just wondering what's the best powervalve setting for high revs? Where should the little holes in the plastic thing line up?
Only thing not stock is my gianelli exhaust

What setup do you have now? Is the power valve connected/active? Or are you positioning power valve in fixed position.

Also, just to be clear, I don't believe anyone on this forum would be inclined to use information posted for criminal ends, I hope that we all share a passion for these bikes and enjoy sharing information if it helps someone else out.
Unfortunately there are people online that take advantage where they can.
I am sure I could not have completed what I have without the valuable input of many people on here, for which I am massively grateful and I will continue to share what I have learnt if I can.

It was not a eurolock or padlock, just the first line of defence and it did it's job, even broken could not be opened without key. Getting to feel the same way Calum, but trying to believe was a random event rather than a targeted attack. I live in a relatively good area (whatever that is these days) and am overly aware of threat posed by scumbag looking to steal my belongings and have taken every measure to ensure I have done as much as possible to stop them. Looking at commercial grade roller door and can at least disable power so it won't open under any instance, saw one earlier this year at a property near a friend and looked strong bar driving a vehicle at it. Have been considering for a while mainly for the convenience side but seems my hand is being forced. The door I have is not weak by any means and has been reinforced, but just looks like a standard (ish) from outside maybe inviting attack.
Sadly I will be keeping a lid on my projects in the future which is a shame as I enjoy sharing my highs and lows, let's hope I am proved right and it was just a random event. Will be checking with neighbours as it's a bit "twitchy net curtains" round here and 2 retired cops close enough.
Anyway, enough said, had a good ride today and going shopping tomorrow for a mountain lion to shackle to my garage floor.

Thought the plug might be fouling but obviously not, had problems with the loom on both 88 and 89 bikes, always the earth. Doesn't sound like that's your problem though, if you have a multimeter might be worth checking. Is the spark consistent when checked?I am sure you have ruled out many of my daft suggestions but curious to know, information is power!
On the 89 bike following rebuild ran fine to start with then deteriorated rapidly, spark plug fouling something awful, had put in strawberry 2 stroke oil (don't ask) and when I checked the gearbox oil had a strong whiff of summer fruit about it. Crankcase seal blown, sorted that and it's been fine since.
The only other suspect would be fuel related, can normally smell that though if you are kicking over repeatedly at the exhaust. Whip the plug out when it won't start and see if it's wet with fuel, sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs btw.!

Thanks Calum

Bummer! Hope you didn't have an off

Rode my red dt last evening and the comparison with the white bike with Galfer front disc was surprising. In every other respect the brake systems are exactly the same with identical pads, but the white bike had far more bite on the front. Not everyone wants to spend the money on a Galfer disc though, the standard set up is best described as adequate and no more even with quality pads. The Galfer disc improves things no doubt but don't expect superbike levels of braking, just much improved imho.

@calum said in The Helios Project (Aprilia RS 125 Rotax 122):

For you perverts out there, the chassis is now rolling!

I was going to drop the engine in, but a friend needed my Jack, and I kinda wanna build that separately. Will make maneuvering the bike a little easier as well.

Lovely job that Calm, you must be pleased with how it's turning out, looks awesome, very impressive

That looks good Calum, like the engine case finish, keep the pics coming

Thanks Scrim, can you email the dt125r service manual to me when you have time?
Ta

Pics of bike, orientation all over the place

Can only say what I found, bought "restored " Dt250mx circa 1976 running on premix. Keen as ever to have as original as possible reconnected all parts to oil pump and bled system. No, it did not work at all, persevered without success so took off machine and checked drive gear was all intact (you never know) and all ok, just did not pump oil. No idea how long it had been disconnected or why, had it rebuilt for a measly cost and came back like new working. Did get some pics given to me at purchase showing condition prior to resto so will try and post some shortly to show condition. Don't discount the obvious because you have never seen it.

Have also suffered a failed oil pump, on a mx250 left disconnected for who knows how long, but you can get them rebuilt and recalibrated to deliver greater oil flow as required. Mine came back looking new and have had 2 others done since.

Clutch arrived today so all fitted and no issues reassembling, my best guess is old clutch contaminated or distorted although not to the naked eye. Will start tomorrow and check all is good, bit late tonight and don't think my neighbours would thank me at midnight! Fitted complete kit with new steel plates and springs so should last a while hopefully.

Removed clutch plates and all seem fine although push rod discoloured last 30 mm. Will clean and polish before refitting, plates all assembled correctly and wondering if plates could be contaminated by something, replacements ordered anyway so should be here shortly.

Ouch! Thought running rich would just cause excessive fouling?

Brilliant, thanks Calum, appreciate the effort taken

Sorry mate, other duties today, if I get a chance tomorrow will get the plates out, snow would be good excuse to this southern softie!

What's a yall?

Doh! .....

Pardon?..

Same here with my red one, left standing for an age and that was fine, can't think anything was put back in wrong order but something not right I am sure. Even with full adjustment on cable still dragging, should have paid more attention when it was on the bench. Going to strip out tomorrow hopefully and new plates/ springs ordered already (mitaka). Did try engaging high gear etc and increased engine revs etc but still the same, even if it worked I would probably strip it out anyway as believe something not correct.

Thought I would sneak out for a pre mot ride today even though it's freezing out, and the clutch plates are sticking. Tried adjusting out but action at lever just gets harder, should have stripped the clutch when I had the engine on the bench, oh well...... Ordered new kit (mitaka) as if I have to strip no point putting back old ones, . Just when I thought it was finished, should not take long though.

Thank you

Good looking bike, like the forks!

Would not the loom also be different?

All done, fitted back to bike and no more overflow. Just surprised as unexpected failure, not seen anything similar before, but you learn something new every day

@jens-eskildsen said in Carb overflow:

Theres just about only 2 things that can make it overflow.

1. Floatheight. If its too high, the carb will overflow before the float makes the needlevalve shut of.
2. Needle valve/seat. If one is worn, or the oring sealing the needleseat to the carb body is worn, fuel will still leak eventhough the float is adjusted properly.

Or there is a split in the overflow pipe

This is the after picture, used acid flux to clean crack, then soldered with soldering iron and all seems ok, fingers crossed. Not the neatest job but dont want to disturb pipe in carb body.

Sorry, I thought you meant swingarm bushes, try wemoto for shock bush, they may do one, or yambits

Go to Wemoto, they do a complete kit (aftermarket) with bearings and bushes for a reasonable cost

Waiting for the decals for my 89 I thought I would ultrasonic clean the carb on my 125 dt mx (same as on the early dt125r's) came up well and checked float heights etc. Reassembled and petrol poured out of the overflow, stripped and checked multiple times and kept happening. Left bowl off and closed floats with finger and all fine??? Checked float bowl gasket was not causing any problem (replacement, slight difference, ) all fine. Filled float bowl with fuel and pouring out of overflow even when half full , examined overflow pipe in bowl and hairline crack along its length. Took photo but hard to see, not new or caused by ultrasonic bath I think, metal oxidized in crack. Assume it was gummed up and cleaning removed fuel gum, how unusual is that?? So beware if you come across same problem.

@calum said in Front brake caliper destroying rims:

@irongamer727 Pretty sure this is just standard with most wheels that run 280mm discs mate.

I've always removed the caliper from the forks to enable greater access to removing the wheel.

Agree with what Calum says, only takes a few minutes to remove if that.

Doesn't sound right to me either, especially for that money for a non runner. Would walk away personally. My mate has just sold his ktm for not much more, full working order and serviced. Used to do enduros but making room for a white dt

What Calum is saying is the timing is fixed, if the stator and cdi is new then spark should be being produced, easy to check by removing plug and looking (assuming all wiring etc is ok) if it's not starting something else is wrong. I always think if you can't see a bike running walk away unless the price is reflective of that condition, who knows what could be wrong? If it was that easy vendor would have fixed it

I have been using Imageworks for my decals, good quality and I know he has graphics up to 91 at least, good to deal with and has made one for the red 88 from template provided. Have seen some of the ones on ebay and not a patch on his to be honest. Think his website is called bike stickers .com, Graham is the guy I talk to, worth asking if he does what you need.

Something else to bear in mind is that there are at least 3 shades of yamaha white, even the correct panels can discolour depending where they have been stored. Very hard to match the panels if they are all from a different source. If you are not worried about originality go for the replica ones and at least they will all be the same shade.

What colour? Although any are hard to find new, takes time and patience.

Get a yz frame

@calum said in Seat cover fitting:

@declan Not the seat you sap, the bike lol.

Haha Haha! Funny!

1st picture recovered seat, 2nd picture old seat foam.

Thanks gents, video was good but not glueing, I walked away and left it for a couple of hours. Went back and stretched it in to submission and a good result. Not upholsterer standard but ok, used 8mm staples and a strong staple gun that worked fine. I will post a pic shortly. Foam on original seat poor so just as well I had a spare
Thanks

Enjoyed reading that!

Would be interested for spares only which would be a shame, wheels look ok, someone should rebuild it rather than being pillaged for parts , . Serves as a reminder to lock it or lose it

Raising the bar there Calum! Happy New Year to all

The first year early dts used a round slide carb, have one on the next rebuild lined up, although my red 88 had already been changed for a flat side one. Do you think it's worth changing to a flat side when I do the rebuild? What are the advantages of either? Thanks Calum

Happy Xmas everyone, had a great time on here, thanks Calum, great job,

What was wrong with the original one?

I normally drift the bearings out as well, with care obviously.

@declan I have used them but I try and refinish as many original bolts as possible leaving a fair few unused, being able to buy exactly what I need would be more cost effective. Also experienced mixed quality from eBay also

Interesting Calum, remember the Japanese 2 strokes first time around, the Aprillias were focused and personally never saw many at all. Did meet Chas Davies years ago when he was a spotty oik , if memory serves his family owned a mini moto track and a friend of mine had a son heavily involved in racing. Have been lucky enough to end up stood on the grid (at Donnington I think,) as his son raced in bsb supersport. He also had cracking brolly dollies (am I allowed to say that?) Have had a lot of big sports bikes, rode like an idiot a lot but lived to tell the tail, and to be honest the thought of a near 200 bhp sportsbike now would make me *** myself no matter how much electronics were in control. Am enjoying my riding much more than I have in years riding the lightweight 2 strokes and would like an lc or rd in the future, can understand the appeal for you and hope you pop some pics up in the future.

I think you should not cut the loom about, shame to ruin a good loom. Get the right one to suit your cdi, or get the correct did to match loom, but that's me. There is a guy on fb group that does good looms, I can find his name if you want, but sell me your loom

My guess is the tube will be stretched to fill a larger profile than it was designed for, making the whole weaker and more prone to failure. Personally would not use it like that, for the sake of a new tube why put your safety in question? Sorry to put the kibosh on your day but would always be at the back of my mind when riding if it was me.

I have received the exhaust for the 89 bike from the same guy, so tempted to fit to my bike, work of art!

Hello, I if you are looking at Gianelli all there images seem to be generic so not what you will receive, get the part nos and do a browser search for a better idea.

Made me check saying that! Used dot4 so in the clear, has dot5 different contents?

Fitted the EBC red stuff pads, braking now what it should be, even the back brake! Brakes best they have ever been, and so they should be with braided lines and new fluid. Worth all the effort rebuilding the calipers and master cylinders. EBC pads get my vote, can only assume old pads were contaminated along the way. Luckily the discs weren't glazed, running better now with the power valve seal done as well.

Possibly Item 9, difficult to tell without legend of parts

You may need shims as well, depends on free play of swingarm in frame, thin metal washers that fit inside end cap, not had one yet without them

They are factory fit, lost one of mine when items went to platers, sourced replacement from fowlers Inc seals

Have the braided lines and new fluid, just a lacķ of forward momentum stopping power, no sponginess at lever, just feels like the pads are slipping over the surface more than gripping like they are really hard.

Already ordered the red ones, will do this on the old ones and keep for spares or try on the 89 when that's done, ta

The discs are relatively new, have ordered some red EBC pads, think the existing ones are past their sell by date, should have done it when I rebuilt but plenty of meat on them. Will give discs a good clean prior to fitting.
Thanks

Top post, enjoyed following that, good job done.

Going to change the pads on my 88 bike, with the hoses plenty of feel at the lever but not as quick to stop as I remember, pads are at least12 years old so going to change. Used EBC HH on big bikes ,seen red EBC pads on eBay? Any good or recommendations?

@declan said in Aprillia rx front end and rear wheel do they fit as an sm conversion?:

@calum thanks bud and the dt is in my bad books right now after pushing it miles at 4 in the morning so I don’t think it deserves it right now

Consider that your carbon offset for the week

Thanks Calum!

I am considering this for the white bike, rebuilt the red bike ones already, would value opinion of someone who's already done it. Will be rebuilding the forks on the white one anyway. Did it before on a 600 and made a big difference to that, fork action much more controlled, a bit soft beforehand.
Tried increased viscocity oil first but slowed the rebound damping too much on that so next step was the progressive springs

@calum good idea, will be making use of this in future, thanks Calum