The ebc heavy duty clutch.
Use bandit 400 clutch springs
To be honest it may be top end, or even bottom end. because with a 'lock up' of the engine the engine gets ALOT of stress, just like a heat seazure. actually the same stress from heat seazures on the crank and bearings. and not @Calum , the clutch doesn't do sh*t under hard breaking or even heat seazure.
i've seen a dt125r seizing at about 140km/h, and even with grippy tyres(Pilot Street) the clutch didnt budge, he reacted quick and pulled in the clutch, saving him from eating asphalt, if you think correctly an emergency stop without clutch is a seizure the other way around. this can still break your piston, bearings, conrods etc.
Hello guys, Daniel from Dan Racing here.
Due to the lack of tutorials in this forum I decided to make a little series of them to help some new tuners into the scene.
This specific tutorial on porting engine cases i'm using TDR125 cases(same as DT125RE/X) but theses things should apply to almost all of 2 stroke engine cases.
There are 3 main places to be carefull with, in all 3 of them, gasoline atomized into the air will flow through, being it's final destination, the cylinder.
1 & 2 - This is one of the most important areas, because it's the part that connects with the transfer ducts on the cylinder, this connection should flow as much as possible. In here you should place the cylinder on the cases and check for any kind of 'step' between the cylinder and this part of the cases. if there is a step it should be eliminated to avoid any major disrupt in the airflow to the cylinder.
If the cylinder is smaller than the cases, it's better to fill in the step in the cases with epoxy than cutting the cylinder, because the transfer ducts in the cylinder are made to mantain a straight area all the way to the actual port.
3 - TEXTURE - Texture in the cases should be like stock, altough after porting them it's very hard to get the stock texture again unless you use some kind of soft sand blasting. The texture should be rough, but not too rough. I like to use the dremel grinding stones to do stripes(all really close together like in the first picture) 90 degrees with the airflow(Airflow in black, blue are an example of the stripes, the stripes shouldnt be deep at all, just enough to create small disruptions in the airflow to keep fuel atomized, this should create very small horse power gains, but you actually should gain more fuel efficiency due to improved atomization so smaller jets needed to achive a good A/F Ratio.
I'd love you guys opinion, or just tell me what you guys to for yourselves in terms of porting, im currently working on a guide on how do port cylinders so stay tuned to the tutorials category.
@Glynn123 This bike with all the supermotard wheels, suspension and frame is about the same weight as the DT125R, that's one of the reasons i went with the swap. Altought with the AM6 engine it was faster than a mostly stock DT125R it wasn't very good for City Riding with internal ignition and such.
The frame is actually sturdier than a DT125R frame from what it seems, alot thicker steel and very big main frame.
Ok boys I wasn't happy how the old engine mounts looked, so i went ahead and did stuff right
(Getting my driving license for cars also helped me move around and get more parts and stuff)
I ordered a machining shop to make me some bushings for the swingarm mount on the engine so it all lines up good without any play.
I cut off my previously made engine mounts, fabricated new ones and tached them in place. Tried to line up the engine the best i could on center with the frame.
Engine looks pretty lined up.
Going to check everything after dinner and finish the welds for the mounts
Got around to building the front mounts, trying to get the motor lined up was the hardest.
I'm not a welder or anything close, so don't mind the bad weld looks, they seem strong, will try and reinforce them even more tomorrow.
The motor is finally sitting by itself, again everything is a mockup still, will build the engine when i get the frame done to avoid any metal shards
Started cutting the frame today, the 'half moon' on the side of the frame are so the clutch case clears up and i can remove it without removing the whole engine, I will still weld something there to fill up the gap and reinforce it. ALso cut the front mounts off. Will be welding new ones
First look the engine inside there, nothing welded or stuck, it's just a mockup engine, not the one that will be put in of course
@Irongamer727 Yup, TPR86 kit