19” YZ wheel & Sprocket
-
@Calum it might be worth building an 18” rear to use then, fucking about with sprockets is a pain in the ass.
Also my original tire size I was used to having when I was running my 18” rear was 120/100-18 or 140/80-18, I can’t remember exactly. All I remember was thinking bigger was better at the time of ordering them.
If I was to get an 18” wheel again I’d run 100/100-18 or alternatively 120/80-18 if I couldn’t find the previous size
-
@Stevie-Wonder I seriously doubt that you will notice that much of a drop in performance/top end with 1 inch wheel size and a different rear sprocket. So long as it's close enough you'll be fine.
-
@Calum sprockets are still the same, also you’d honestly be surprised the difference it’s not a huge one but it’s enough to completely change the way I have the ride the bike.
The gears as of a lot longer and are like a supersport 125, to get to the top end of your power band you really have to hold her WOT for quite a long time, because of this and the length of 4th and 5th you now can’t change into powerband to keep pulling in 6th.
Off road has a couple of advantages and makes the bike a little nicer to cruise on but overall it’s really not doing me or the bike favours
-
@Stevie-Wonder You do realise the wheels I'm running on my DTR right???
-
Seriously bud?! Building another wheel is less hassle than changing a front sprocket? I think you’re over thinking something here. Seriously, drop a tooth at a time till you’re happy...
-
You got sumo’s + 4DL trans aint you?
Dropping a tooth at the front makes the gears too short sadly, you'd need to adjust from the back which would require renthal making me a sprocket or somehow finding one.
Don’t get me wrong I’ve took the bike out a bit recently and changed the way I’ve been riding it and it’s been a lot of fun, it just requires more carefully timed shifting and clutch. Through 1st to 4th
Best way I could explain it is before on the original setup, it’s like you’d hit band in first then straight away shift into second then zip through the gears
As where now you get to power band and rather then zipping through you’re sat there letting it Rev and Rev waiting for it to reach to the end of the power curve so you can change up, it’s very reminiscent of a 4/ 125
Theoretically having that wheel should up the top speed but practically it’s made it slower
-
@Stevie-Wonder I wouldn't exactly call them Sumo and no I'm on stock DTRE transmission.
Aprilia RS 125 wheels and DTRE transmission. So it's a considerable change from the stock wheel setup and I think the gearing is fine. Tops out at about 70mph though
but I'm not 17 anymore and weigh considerably more.Rides lovely though and for zipping to and from town it's a perfect little bike.
-
Update the sidewall height of both tires I run on both wheels where the same, I’m not sure what an extra inch added equates to in terms of sprocket teeth but it explains a bit
Also no @SpookDog of course not, although I do need to buy a socket the right size that’ll fit the nut on the sprocket so I can experiment with a couple sprockets. Ya never know I might not be able to replicate the ratio but I could possibly get a nice medium between them both.
I think realistically though the stock gearing is the best without compromise for using the bike about town and off-road, which along with the occasional long road trip or weekend camping trip is what I need it for.
Also @Calum she sound good, may only do 70 but I bet she gets there pretty flipping quick
-
@Stevie-Wonder
The difference between a 3.50 standard tyre and a 4.00 is a half inch. I corrected that gearing on my bike by dropping 1 tooth from 17 to 16. If you have a 17 front cog try searching ebay for a 15 tooth Jt front dtr125 sprocket. They are about 6 quid...Whether you drop the front or raise the rear, its still the same. You are lowering the gearing. You want it 'shorter'...
SpookDog...
-
As it happens I think I actually have a 15” sprocket in my garage, anyone know what size the sprocket bolt is?
