HELP I HAVE A SPARK WHEN IGNITION IS OFF BUT NOT WHEN ON
-
PLEASE HELP
Hi all I have a dtr 125 I am currently baffled by what is happening I have been over and over the wiring diagram and am 99.9%sure it's exactly how it should be however when the key is off I'm getting a spark when the key is turned on the power valve boots up but I lose my spark somebody had tried to steal the bike in the past and all the wires had been cut I have had 3 of these bikes in the past re wired all 3 off them myself but this one is stressing me right out how could I possibly have a spark with the ignition unplugged I have also noticed that when I disconnect the battery I can get a spark with the key on or off but obviously this means the cdi is getting no power and the power valve will not operate and also the bike wouldn't cut out with the key being turned off any help is very much appreciated thanks in advance
-
Hi there did you find out the problem as from what you are saying I have the same problem also my loom is brand new out of packet so it’s definitely not the loom as my problem is the same as yours I’m putting it down to stator???
@jamie1992 did you get this sorted in the end what was causing it
-
I had this years ago. Faulty side stand was fo blame. I just bypassed it and the ignition barrel.
For a long time used to just start it up with the ignition in the off position and kick it over whilst simultaneously switching it to the on position.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
-
I had this years ago. Faulty side stand was fo blame. I just bypassed it and the ignition barrel.
For a long time used to just start it up with the ignition in the off position and kick it over whilst simultaneously switching it to the on position.
-
done all that bud looped the side stand switch kill switch and 2 loops in the ignition block
i remove the loop on the kill switch no spark so thats good
i remove the loop in the ignition block ( blue\white & blue\yellow ) no spark so good but as soon as i remove the main loop ( red & brown ) spark returns (that would be ignition & kill switch in the off position) -
-
Hi all im going thought the same situation right now!
Not to hijack your thread here Gazza,
now i do have 2 looms to play with. one is a genuine Yamaha 3RM the other is a unknown.
the genuine one i have no problems with. but the other one i have has the same issue as you Gazza, if bypass the Kill and Side stand Switch with a loop and i then bridge all the pins on the ignition block then i get no spark, however if i then remove the pins from red and brown. the spark returns.
now the switches work by bridging the connections to red and brown and B/w to B/y respectivly.
like i said i have a genuine 3RM loom to and that is fine so i know the components are absoulutly fine. and the bike runs
its just with this unknown loom that i have an issue with. @gazza76 im curious to know did you get this loom from ebay a 3rd party made aftermarket one?
-
been over it again today still no joy time to send the cdi for a test it's a strange one that yours works with one and not the other
i've seen one with the same symptoms and it was cdi and others say side stand or broken wire in the loom its only £40 to get the cdi tested so thats my next step if you do figure it out please let me know -
This post is deleted!
-
Hi all, new to the forum and as you imagine, I have came across this very issue.
Now, full disclosure, my 3RM was running fine until I had it all disassembled and had the frame powder coated, which tells me either I screw up the electrics beforehand or, the power coat prevents grounding.
By any chance does anyone faced this issue after having the chassis re-painted? And if so, which areas or wires do we need to make sure are properly earthed?
Thanks a lot and cheers from Spain.
El Pedro -
Hi all, new to the forum and as you imagine, I have came across this very issue.
Now, full disclosure, my 3RM was running fine until I had it all disassembled and had the frame powder coated, which tells me either I screw up the electrics beforehand or, the power coat prevents grounding.
By any chance does anyone faced this issue after having the chassis re-painted? And if so, which areas or wires do we need to make sure are properly earthed?
Thanks a lot and cheers from Spain.
El Pedro@Marillionado Hi, welcome to the Forum!
Not very familiar with the 3RM but on the earlier 3NC and 3MB bikes you do need to remove the powder coat where the coil attaches to the frame for a really good earth connection. It's also where the loom earths to the frame (the black ring terminal) and IIRC this attaches at the rearmost (i.e nearest the shock) coil mount. Lastly, only one mounting point on some of the coils is an earth so it's important you mount the coil the correct way, it should look like this:
-
Mate....THANK YOU!!!
-
While I check if that is indeed the issue, allow me to share the "before and after" of my troubled rebuild (tried uploading but it seems all my images are too large to compute, sorry):
Before:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10vFChB0EYgA4KcdGXxD0ADUuBkG3_3L1/view?usp=drive_linkAfter:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-vahreq0O_fcCLm1wl73cvFQxRDeTEqF/view?usp=drive_link -
@gazza76 sorry for the late reply, after getting the multimeter out, mine was a black earth issue, so inside the loom i had 1 wire was dead, this was the black runing from the loom to the connector block for the side stand, i also then had a Black terminal on the nutural relay at the back that was not creating a connection.
maybe it helps you, easiest way i found was mulitmeter to the frame earth point at the coil. and stick the meter in contunaty mode, should beep when you touch the prongs together. and then probe all the black earths across the loom.
Cheers
-
@vtrtomuk hi bud it’s gazza76 can’t log back in to that account for some reason thanks for the reply I’d put it on the back burner for a while I’d gone through the wiring loom several times I sent the cdi of for a test turns out that be my issue so going to go for a zeeltronic unit instead of a rep
