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DT125R FORUM

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Difficult start

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  • CalumC Online
    CalumC Online
    Calum
    wrote on last edited by
    #16

    Yeah I ran both, preignition is only going to really be an issue if you're getting into the tuning game. I'm sure those will be fine

    Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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    • Uber_BelugaU Offline
      Uber_BelugaU Offline
      Uber_Beluga
      wrote on last edited by
      #17

      I think I made a little progress with the starting problem today.

      I can confirm that there is no spark from the plug when kick-starting. Any ideas what could be causing no spark? The bike does run when I get it started by roll starting it, so it must spark sometimes.

      I'll have another go next weekend, but any advice on where to start in advance would be appreciated 🙂

      -- '02 DT 125 r -- '06 DT125re(Stolen) --

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      • Uber_BelugaU Offline
        Uber_BelugaU Offline
        Uber_Beluga
        wrote on last edited by
        #18

        I've spent more time on the no spark issue today. Got the new battery in and no change, that didn't really surprise me, but I wanted a new battery anyway given that the old one was only giving around 12.3v on a full charge.

        I started going down a list of things to check that I found from this random video on YouTube. (Internet is my only source of knowledge)
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjvnUIwQ33Y

        First I checked my kill switch, it wasn't good. Full resistance switched on or off. If I caress the switch in just the right way, sometimes it works, but I'd rather not carry my multimetre with me everywhere I go, so off it goes.
        They aren't cheap, so I'm probably going to try and fix the switch, simple enough electrics hopefully.

        Now, question is, should I get a spark with that kill switch pulled from the bike, or will I need to bridge the connections that it plugged into? I didn't try that when I was outside, but thinking retrospectively that's probably what I should have done?

        I went on to check the coil which caused more confusion, but I won't get into that until I've got the switch sorted.

        -- '02 DT 125 r -- '06 DT125re(Stolen) --

        CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
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        • Uber_BelugaU Uber_Beluga

          I've spent more time on the no spark issue today. Got the new battery in and no change, that didn't really surprise me, but I wanted a new battery anyway given that the old one was only giving around 12.3v on a full charge.

          I started going down a list of things to check that I found from this random video on YouTube. (Internet is my only source of knowledge)
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjvnUIwQ33Y

          First I checked my kill switch, it wasn't good. Full resistance switched on or off. If I caress the switch in just the right way, sometimes it works, but I'd rather not carry my multimetre with me everywhere I go, so off it goes.
          They aren't cheap, so I'm probably going to try and fix the switch, simple enough electrics hopefully.

          Now, question is, should I get a spark with that kill switch pulled from the bike, or will I need to bridge the connections that it plugged into? I didn't try that when I was outside, but thinking retrospectively that's probably what I should have done?

          I went on to check the coil which caused more confusion, but I won't get into that until I've got the switch sorted.

          CalumC Online
          CalumC Online
          Calum
          wrote on last edited by
          #19

          @Uber_Beluga Bridge the connection.

          The kill switch contacts have probably corroded. Try spray some electrical contact cleaner in there. Or dismantle it and rub the switch contcts down,

          Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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          • Uber_BelugaU Offline
            Uber_BelugaU Offline
            Uber_Beluga
            wrote on last edited by
            #20

            Thanks Calum,

            I'll get the switch sorted through the week and have it ready for next weeked to try again.

            I spent about an hour trying to get a spark with that switch off the bike without even thinking that having it off was the same as having it not working. Feeling pretty thick right now.

            -- '02 DT 125 r -- '06 DT125re(Stolen) --

            CalumC R 2 Replies Last reply
            0
            • Uber_BelugaU Uber_Beluga

              Thanks Calum,

              I'll get the switch sorted through the week and have it ready for next weeked to try again.

              I spent about an hour trying to get a spark with that switch off the bike without even thinking that having it off was the same as having it not working. Feeling pretty thick right now.

              CalumC Online
              CalumC Online
              Calum
              wrote on last edited by
              #21

              @Uber_Beluga Not really

              We've all been there. Live and learn.

              Tobe fair, on my brothers DT, something was properly merssed up. You could only get a spark if you kicked the bike over, and turned the ignition on at the same time. I kid you not. Never got to the bottom of it.

              Of course this was some time ago now.

              Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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              • Uber_BelugaU Uber_Beluga

                Thanks Calum,

                I'll get the switch sorted through the week and have it ready for next weeked to try again.

                I spent about an hour trying to get a spark with that switch off the bike without even thinking that having it off was the same as having it not working. Feeling pretty thick right now.

                R Offline
                R Offline
                Raydt
                wrote on last edited by
                #22

                @Uber_Beluga
                How many wires going up to the kill switch, usually only one and when the switch is closed it earth's out the low voltage side of the coil, so if it is disconnected and taped up it should not stop it from starting.

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                • Uber_BelugaU Offline
                  Uber_BelugaU Offline
                  Uber_Beluga
                  wrote on last edited by Uber_Beluga
                  #23

                  4 wires, same connection as the starter button

                  From what I can tell, both the button and the switch produce infinate resistance when they're in their "off" position, but very little to no resistance when in the "on" position. The kill switch doesn't always go into the "on" posisiton so easy. (hence it's removal)

                  I don't think it's as you describe on my bike (06 RE), but hey, I could definately be wrong. I'm pretty lost with electronics.

                  -- '02 DT 125 r -- '06 DT125re(Stolen) --

                  CalumC R 2 Replies Last reply
                  0
                  • Uber_BelugaU Uber_Beluga

                    4 wires, same connection as the starter button

                    From what I can tell, both the button and the switch produce infinate resistance when they're in their "off" position, but very little to no resistance when in the "on" position. The kill switch doesn't always go into the "on" posisiton so easy. (hence it's removal)

                    I don't think it's as you describe on my bike (06 RE), but hey, I could definately be wrong. I'm pretty lost with electronics.

                    CalumC Online
                    CalumC Online
                    Calum
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #24

                    @Uber_Beluga Infinite resistance?

                    Surely just an on off switch would cause infinite resistance since it is very difficult for Electricity to bridge the gap.

                    Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                    • Uber_BelugaU Uber_Beluga

                      4 wires, same connection as the starter button

                      From what I can tell, both the button and the switch produce infinate resistance when they're in their "off" position, but very little to no resistance when in the "on" position. The kill switch doesn't always go into the "on" posisiton so easy. (hence it's removal)

                      I don't think it's as you describe on my bike (06 RE), but hey, I could definately be wrong. I'm pretty lost with electronics.

                      R Offline
                      R Offline
                      Raydt
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #25

                      @Uber_Beluga
                      So if you have four wires - one will be an ign. Switched live to the starter switch. One will be the return wire to the starter solenoid.
                      Then the other two will be a feed up from the CDI and a return that either goes back to the CDI to make a circuit or maybe goes to earth as I mentioned before.
                      Just buzz the wires out with your meter to check what they do, but if you can get a good make/break across the switch then that's not you problem.

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