Haha as title says , complete rebuild time is here. Im stripped the bike down so far counting and thinking what where and how much etc. Researching new ideas. So far Im decided to powdercoat frame , get yz usd forks and swingarm , rebore barrel + new piston and con rod , inspect the crash of bottom end(hopely only bearings) , new clutch , new full exhaust, rework the connectors and wire harness...
Will warmly welcome new ideas and comments , 
Well , today Im finished my USD forks conversion on my "moneypit DT " 
. I've been working on it for a few weeks... firstly Im bought Ktm exc 300 forks from 2002 and same seller was selling ktm 450 forks from 2003 too so ended up eith 2 sets Im thought they are exactly same silly. Liked the 450 ones I think they are 48mm so decided to put them on. And will make everything required to direct fit on Dt the other ones 300 for sale. Measured everything 100 times and even after that the machined components wasnt 100% so I had to modify them after typical for me
Here if few pics from my garage , going to test ride and adjust them tomorrow.
Brake line and speedo cable is a bit shorter than it should be but its ok adjusted. Now just need upgrade the wrap around handguards and thats it. Sorry for so many pics 
hopefully you will like it guys because I love it 
Well , forgot to update it in here , I won the fight with the bolt. Stripped the bike anyway. All the problems because swingarm bearings colapsed . After desperate 6 hr fight , Im took enginr out with swingarm on it and cut the pin with angle grinder. It was pile of rust mixed with wd40 looked like curry. Big advice to you guys , keep an eye on the swingarm pivot bolt and lube it regulary and inspect the swingarm bearings as well 
you dont want to experience the removal 
Small update . Engine rebuilt and frame finally came back from powdercoating. Not sure if I love the change but have to deal with it now 
Share the engine number on facebook and everywhere that it was stolen makes it bit hotter to handle.
Done 150 miles on her today. Wasnt easy to wide smile all day but after some complications we made it together.
Well , bike is like 95% finished. Bearings sorted from wemoto , all new shiny stainless fasteners everywhere. Tried to exchange every possible nut bolt and washer. Just waiting for new chain
First start of the bike , changed the engine oil lines for clear ones too and they are awesome and usefull. My pump needs bled and small coolant leak from top of the head. Hopefully only carb warming screw needs the copper washer 
If you see anything on the video strange and suspicious please let me know .
@tdr125greg the "fat" area 28 mm is in the clamping area and it reduces to the 22 mm on the ends so you need only the conversion-risers for clamping and you can keep all the other stuff for 22mm
@Mightyman same here. The number states the temperature "level" of the plug. The colder - higher number. Im heard the colder spark is better ...
Cheapest option mate . Stainless tin , in case of impact it will just twist
I wouldnt tell you mate if Im not 100% sure. There is my order in top pic m18x1.5 and bottom is fitted on bike .
@declan yes you need to bleed the autolube mate. When Im rebuilt my engine , I ran on few litres of premix to bleed my pump. There is a rubber blind pipe with small clamp on . Let the bike idling and manually twist the pump pull-wheel with the small pipe off , I have transparent pipes so Im seen when it start coming to the inlet. Might not be best method but worked for me ...
Well , here we go again . 2nd rebuild . Now with new crank bearings and seals 
, new piston and rings , new - used clutch , removed kickstart and got new used stay for the sprag clutch and installed starter motor, fresh gear oil.
Here is what it sounds like . First start was surprisingly smooth ,was idling bit higher so turned it down and bled autolube . Feel strange as it was maybe too good to be true lol .
Let me know what you think about the sound. Havent jump on it yet btw.
@tdrnoob first thing I did was removed starter motor to see if its really that problem and it was. I had a broked bearing stay. Thats a plate behind a flywheel where starter clutch sits on needle bearing . I am replaced it , cleaned and lubed everything in there and its ok now.
Number 1 was broken .
Verniers should be ok to measure and see the difference. 0.5mm is really big difference even for ruller or measuring tape.
I am happy with big one . The first one I had was badly rusty but now I have another one and its cool
@jgr72 
5min job . Just reuse the hose clamps or get some from ebay.
Looks awesome. Cant wait to see it finished.
@andrewj1680 yes , there is the slot for loom on the on mudguard and it goes between the Y cowl bottom bracket and yoke as well up
Thanks for help guys. Did 4 or 5 wheelies today at first gear. Only a 3 or 4 inches few seconds 
. Figured out need to rev it up up to the red and it worked . Will need loads of practice on dry road. So excited lol
I've never heard of checking the engine number on Mot ... All they did ever to me was frame (VIN) number on head tube
Im not sure if this helps you but here is the wiring diagrams from haynes manual 
Yep with rebuild engine wasnt boggin in 6th gear on straight road. I was sliding like 10 meters then clutch. Was looking around bike 5 minutes and bumpstarted it no problem. Didnt felt confident since I didnt know what happened.
Not sure if it suppose to sound like this. What you guys think? I mean the sound when I rev it its strange . New piston , rings , conrod , bearings...
@Mightyman yes , too much hassle with it so keep it stock. Defo need the forks as the stanchions are badly dented. Maybe leave it for winter... btw no leaks at all now 
Found this £17 posted for pair.
I have only 1 on my bike as I couldnt get one.
https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-pieces-catalogue-2052-22.html
I like these , looks strong enough even without frame but Im afraid about the clearance between expansion chamber, tank etc...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152190539528
Having these in watchlist for some time...
Googled it . 1998 version with ally swingarm.
Bit older photos
Totally love them. Best spent £17 
£7 for a nut 
The actual size of the nut is M18×1.5 (fine)
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181485533918
Thats what Im bought 3 months ago for mine £2.75 for 1pc.
Put the bearings for hour or so into the freezer 
Never heard of temp sensor with earth.
To be honest the terminal looks like from battery but wire is too small for it.
Im watched some vids and tutorials about it and have all the equipment and dti at work incl. 5 years machinist experience but this is such a critical part of the engine which I wasnt sure if I can do in with basic information. If its only £30 then well spent money with some sort of insurance from professional... I know one who I trust 100 % so will ask him tomorrow , if he will not able to do it then I will contact your people 
wanted to get all the bits and pieces together as I have 3 days to rebuild the engine because Im working and leaving split engine in my garage might as well kill it
£100 is a nice wossner piston haha . I would go rather for it
I believe you going to use the standard forks and maybe sell the usd ones? 
Well , finally opened the engine , this piston did 400 miles , find out that 300ml trans oil left , bit in coolant and lot in crank case. Sparkplug was badly fouled , similar to the piston on the pic . I was probably burning it as well but didnt smell or didnt seen any bad smoke... Trying to figure out what actually happened.
Aaand this 
Its shame but Im tried it and and its just hairdryer . Your bike will run lean . Thanks god I didnt crashed when Im pushed that button at 60mph
@Darty will be finally lever that fits my big foots lol . Found a nice one on ebay . And then there is the other side. Brake lever anyone have one like apico/rfx etc?
Im heard that YZ 125 fits as well. Wonder if anyone here tried the gear lever and or brake pedal as well. The apico accesories looks epic . I wish they making them for Dts too 
£
Yeah , mine was rusty too. Will try to do something , (didnt like the design of the old one anyway) . And lot of spare time and material in work also
As long as you dont have bubbles from oil tank to the pump it will be fine
The yz swingarm arrived today . Postman asked me why I am so happy lol.
Ehm. The fitment makes me a bit nervous there. Any ideas ?
Happened to me , not a nice experience. My bearings was rotten , seized and I've had to drill, mill and chisel it horribly , then remove the engine with swingarm out of the frame (together) then after long fight I cut it with angle grinder . All that after week of beating with sledge hammer , soaking in hot and cold oils , torch etc etc . Hopefully never again 
As long as you dont have bubbles from oil tank to the pump it will be fine
I've never heard of checking the engine number on Mot ... All they did ever to me was frame (VIN) number on head tube
@oldman Agree with you , bought the big kit of ss bolts for my dtx and ended up with more than half unused and also few missing. I have contacted them and asked for the sizes that was missing and added half to the amount , got it up to 3 days. Now working on other project and Im happy for the spare ones
Mine was older type of big one on dtx . 1 bracket sorted it
@pjt95 do you feel when you put it in the gear the bike moves a bit ?
You will need to bleed it if you disconnected the pipe from oil tank to pump. Its easy , on the side of pump is small blind rubber pipe with clip . Let bike idle , and put some clean container under the pump then pull that hose ,oil will leak uneven , manually turn the oil pulley to full , when oil leaking nice and even there should be no air in it. Then just refit the small pipe and clip and thats it. Tip the oil back in tank 
Best to have the clear pipes
@irongamer727 when Im cleaned mine , I had new seal and old seal in hand and couldnt tell the difference.
Found this £17 posted for pair.
I have only 1 on my bike as I couldnt get one.
https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-pieces-catalogue-2052-22.html
@jem71 hello and welcome to the forum 🖑
Lot of spare parts used and new can be found on eBay and on few facebook pages.
I am worked on mine recently , according to the haynes manual its 7kg-m which is 68.64 nm
The screws he looking for are for the small cover plate for right crankshaft seal. I think its m5 so if you damaged the thread you can drill it to suit same type of screw size m6. And buy and anti seize molybdenum paste. Im used it on every bolt on the engine.
@andrewj1680 yes , there is the slot for loom on the on mudguard and it goes between the Y cowl bottom bracket and yoke as well up
The cleaning cycle is from wherever it is to the right , then to the left and than middle.
Do you have a nice play on throttle? Check the rubber if it sits nicely on filter housing.
@dan28 I have a small blinded hose with clip on side of the pump , so when bike idling , take the clip off and pull the blinded hose , manually by hand turn the pulley to max so the pump pumping max oil. I am replaced my oil hoses for clear ones so I can see there is no bubbles . I think its only important to bleed the oil tank - pump pipe. If you doing it , place a clean container (Im using old jar from pickles) so I can reuse the oil. If you did rebuilt the top end , you have probably used excessive amount of oil to lube the bearings and rings so I think its plenty for less than 5min job bleeding oil pump . If you premix your petrol in tank and bleed the pump , you will run too much oil which fouling spark. (Happened to me)
@declan I was same , but mine was cut on 2 places -just after connector and 5mm after switch Im removed the switch before powdercoating.
@declan is it close to the other conector? I think thats side stand switch remains lol. I think
@calum I remember when I was rebuilding first time I was hesitating but tried and it was the best thing as Im learned a lot from my bike and now I can put the engine apart in couple hours.
@vtrn_raptor you can do it with really basic tools but you will need a flywheel puller and clutch holder to begin with , I definitely wouldnt change the seals withouth removing the crankshaft as you risk damaging it and it will damage the new seals in no time... its also good to have a set of new bolts , set of gaskets , good quality instant gasket 
Great job @Calum , thank you for keeping the forum running
Did you spotted any clues like dimming lights or dash lights , is the spark plug ok? Im not an expert but when something went wrong on mine Im checked for the easiest bits first
@andrewj1680 flooded ? Just an idea. If its not going after 3rd kick I am bumped it
Never heard of temp sensor with earth.
To be honest the terminal looks like from battery but wire is too small for it.
@calum oh yes , after Im changed the brake lines for hel braided lines, the standard forks always compressed like crazy ,not cool in the situation when you need stop quickly and whole weight moving over front wheel.
@nottsbiker yeah trying to get the drawings ready as all them I made was wrong at some stage I had to modify the parts on the go but good idea , i will try to get it together and write a small step by step tutorial
Thanks guys , cant wait to go test it properly but raining like crazy every 10 minutes 
Well , today Im finished my USD forks conversion on my "moneypit DT " . I've been working on it for a few weeks... firstly Im bought Ktm exc 300 forks from 2002 and same seller was selling ktm 450 forks from 2003 too so ended up eith 2 sets Im thought they are exactly same silly. Liked the 450 ones I think they are 48mm so decided to put them on. And will make everything required to direct fit on Dt the other ones 300 for sale. Measured everything 100 times and even after that the machined components wasnt 100% so I had to modify them after typical for me
Here if few pics from my garage , going to test ride and adjust them tomorrow.
Brake line and speedo cable is a bit shorter than it should be but its ok adjusted. Now just need upgrade the wrap around handguards and thats it. Sorry for so many pics hopefully you will like it guys because I love it
@perithtv I've been there too few months ago. Soaking , heating etc etc nothing
Take off everything possible what can restrict you in the back and chop the bolt on as much places as angle grinder let you. I had 4 cuts and lifted the pieces off. Bought brand new guts for it and there is more grease then metal on it damaged my axe on it too
@declan well dont think that will work but - will be nice if anyone wants to sell a part with higher value expensive - raffle it not sure if it will work
£100 is a nice wossner piston haha . I would go rather for it
McGregor
Not a biggest fan of the show as they are mates but he have a good style so I believe he can do it.
@terry-tz oh jeez . Are you all good ? What about bike?
@calum yeah small modifications are not problem . Could it be from cr85 for example?
@calum what are they originally for please? Did you had to modify it or direct fit?
@terry-tz I wouldnt put it in stihl chainsaw either... btw there is a stihl 2t oil too . Im used to run it in old jawas .
Googled it . 1998 version with ally swingarm.
Hello and welcome to the forum. Just spotted the balancer shaft issue , I believe there is only one way how to install it wrong - balancer shaft gears not aligned properly .there is 2 punchmarks on them as on the 38.3c picture
Well , the forum running awesome fast now.
Great job and thank you @Calum .
I believe you going to use the standard forks and maybe sell the usd ones?
Overtightened pv adjusters maybe , is your cleaning cycle nice and turns free?
@declan yes you need to bleed the autolube mate. When Im rebuilt my engine , I ran on few litres of premix to bleed my pump. There is a rubber blind pipe with small clamp on . Let the bike idling and manually twist the pump pull-wheel with the small pipe off , I have transparent pipes so Im seen when it start coming to the inlet. Might not be best method but worked for me ...
Verniers should be ok to measure and see the difference. 0.5mm is really big difference even for ruller or measuring tape.
@notgotaclue I got mine from wemoto , wasnt too bad. Will post links for you soon
I wouldnt tell you mate if Im not 100% sure. There is my order in top pic m18x1.5 and bottom is fitted on bike .
Did you checked all wires and connectors from generator to rectifier?
@declan I have aftermarket throttle too but not sure if quick action . Maybe 1/2 turn or 1/3
Yeah all the time something silly with the bike but still love it dont know why haha.
Bike mechanic stopped there for help , after 5 min he told me that its in gearbox. Bent fork or something but dont know about the coolant as I am bumpstart it and as far as I didnt stopped the engine sounded sweet , couldnt change gear or release the clutch . Yeah. Made it home 7 miles on 2nd gear with clutch lever. Full coolant overflow tank but cylinder and head is dry and clean.
Not sure which section to choose mate.
Well , went for a spin today and exactly 400 miles after rebuild the bike gave up again 
Splashed coolant from cap all over me and stuck in second gear...
@andrewj1680 dont they have kilometers in France? that would be even better
Same here mate . I think its rectifier . I would say test it charged and let it run for few minutes. Im heard if its below 13.2V its bad . Mine is charged like 13.34V and always ends up below 12V 
£7 for a nut
The actual size of the nut is M18×1.5 (fine)
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181485533918
Thats what Im bought 3 months ago for mine £2.75 for 1pc.
I am happy with big one . The first one I had was badly rusty but now I have another one and its cool
Ehm. I see you only missing the pipe going from pump to intake and slacked cable...
@Mightyman same here. The number states the temperature "level" of the plug. The colder - higher number. Im heard the colder spark is better ...
Share the engine number on facebook and everywhere that it was stolen makes it bit hotter to handle.
Havent many bikes myself but I like my dtx also because its very light and easy to handle on bends. Sour back when lifting my keeways rear end up but DT is really light
Bit older photos
Totally love them. Best spent £17
@declan cool mate , keep us updated any mods you planning in the future or keep it original?
Haha Im not surprised , cr500 is a beast . Any pic mate ?
Put the bearings for hour or so into the freezer
My dtx had 6 owners and lots of abuse. Was left long time on the sun . The plastics have some type of gloss coat which peels off with decals . Before Im applied decals Im degreased whole bike for best possible grip and there is still bits that coming off...
I think its ok to use thinners to remove the old paint or thinners mixed with paint stripper.
My mate have something like this on his husaberg . Its on the side of his head stem and locks inside steer tube. Its all steel like but in shorter diameter with longer bar might be also easy to break..
@CYBER-NINJA seen it couple of times . And Im thought its reliable... haha specially on dts ally top yokes.
Lol I know that 900 is too much . But dont want to fry new clutch , where is all the oil ?
I have like 900+ ml in the bottom end and still have to tilt it towards right to see the level . Lots of oil is in the gearbox too . Haynes refer to 800ml after rebuild but still not enough for me. Tried to warm up engine and let it sit straight , tried to check after not running few days - same results - below inspection glass...
Btw. - no leaks and coolant is clear too.
Experienced trouble with bike yesterday at practice day of Tandragee 100 road races . Bike died every couple of miles , didnt know if rectifier or battery is faulty . Lifted the bike on pickup and made it home . Find out Im run out of petrol
Btw didnt raced myself...
Or you can upload it to google drive and share it
Yep with rebuild engine wasnt boggin in 6th gear on straight road. I was sliding like 10 meters then clutch. Was looking around bike 5 minutes and bumpstarted it no problem. Didnt felt confident since I didnt know what happened.
Thanks guys . It was couple days and nights without sleep but build it in one week back together.
We had some breakfast in Portaferry ,and then Bangor and Lisburn . Lovely coastal roads in Northern Ireland. Some day for it.
Btw: did anyone ever experienced in 85mph in 6th gear locked back wheel and engine cutout?
Wasnt nice experience...
Done 150 miles on her today. Wasnt easy to wide smile all day but after some complications we made it together.
... bike wont start up without stator removed from rotor. Neither kickstarted
Post a pic of side of your barrel where the valve is . Dont you have pulley housing at all?
You can add it directly here by clicking on the small cloud with arrow inside it . Much easier. 
Does it the rear wheel turn on neutral when engine off and lock on all other gears?
Same OEM number. Im ordered theese instead of 25for 1 bush from fowlers
http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/al-40-2134/
In case you want genuine yamaha one -
https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/product/yamaha/903801607700/bush-solid-3r4-?uid=0
@Calum cool mate , will be great to make a tutorial for us how to fit them on the dt Just when he not looking take them off
I like these , looks strong enough even without frame but Im afraid about the clearance between expansion chamber, tank etc...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152190539528
Having these in watchlist for some time...
@pelplouffe thats what Im heard and I believe it as my clutch slipped a lot.
@Mightyman yeah . Im used before some 10w40 castrol I had spare in garage but friends told me thats not good use car engine oil in 2 stroke gearboxes as they work different with clutch so thats why Im got this one on the new clutch .got it yeasterday so will put it in as soon as I get my engine back together
@Calum yeah , working on the combustion chamber atm and Im asking because I was reading your older post where you said to polish it. Have that book from Mr. Bell in watchlist on eBay for months but always had more important parts to buy
Hi guys , got the mitaka piston , std size and was reading the post about porting and polishing here. Wondering if its any good to polish my piston as its different from the one like wossner, this is like rough material I think from casting .
It might should be there so better ask here haha. What you think? And also my kit was supplied with a spring which going under one piston ring and dont know which one. Nothing about it in haynes bible.
Im watched some vids and tutorials about it and have all the equipment and dti at work incl. 5 years machinist experience but this is such a critical part of the engine which I wasnt sure if I can do in with basic information. If its only £30 then well spent money with some sort of insurance from professional... I know one who I trust 100 % so will ask him tomorrow , if he will not able to do it then I will contact your people wanted to get all the bits and pieces together as I have 3 days to rebuild the engine because Im working and leaving split engine in my garage might as well kill it
That was exactly what I wanted to hear. Thank you @Calum . Will search for a local specialist.
Guys , maybe a funny question but this is new to me and going to change the big end bearings and conrod and Im heard about truing the crankshaft with dial test indicator. Not sure if I need to do it after I change the bearings and conrod. 
@CYBER-NINJA I would trust the datatool they are leading brand in motorcycle security systems. Looks solid
The second one looks like its more reliable as the space for the lever is really tight, might not fit some kinds of lever also... If I forget for a second that I know the datatool brand I will probably go for the black one ... hard to choose
@CYBER-NINJA looks cool but as an engineer I will probably get lever off with alen key .
Well , forgot to update it in here , I won the fight with the bolt. Stripped the bike anyway. All the problems because swingarm bearings colapsed . After desperate 6 hr fight , Im took enginr out with swingarm on it and cut the pin with angle grinder. It was pile of rust mixed with wd40 looked like curry. Big advice to you guys , keep an eye on the swingarm pivot bolt and lube it regulary and inspect the swingarm bearings as well you dont want to experience the removal
@Calum yeah thats sounds about right but also alloy frames have pressed steel inserts in them. Well , will turn one as I get the forks
@gareth_iowc awesome mate , defo will do the cup. What material did you used?
Btw what you planning to do with the other yz engine?
@tdr125greg yeah I've read it couple of times thats why I was confused . Thanks mate
@tdr125greg could you please explain me what exactly did you meant by ...."Firstly I was going to use yz forks as the bottom half of the stem was 30mm in diameter but soon realised thanks to you guys I would need a cup made up, that itself wouldn't be a major issue but then the process of having to properly shorten them (deltaboxframe angles) and then progressive springs and revalving..... " ??
Im going for the yz forks and Im bit confused
@tdr125greg the "fat" area 28 mm is in the clamping area and it reduces to the 22 mm on the ends so you need only the conversion-risers for clamping and you can keep all the other stuff for 22mm
@tdr125greg what bike is it from? Looks like mine from keeway tx125. I think there is 2 main points you should look at if you want to swap a swingarm. The width and internal diameter of pivot mounts so it not too wide for your frame and the type of linkage mount. You made me curious as well now
Wd40 everywhere , I will replace it anyway for new one . Just its nightmare. Hammering it and it wont move not even a 0.1mm . Nothing. 
Any good tricks how to remove the swingarm pivot. My dtx is unarmed granade and the previous owners words that the bike was regulary serviced was lies. Need to rebuild top and bottom end and can not remove the stuck long bolt holding engine in back as well as swingarm. Tried to heat it and after hour or so made it to spin but not axial move at all...
Can anyone help me and show me how the rectifier connector is wired ? I might missmatched it and have breakdown
@CYBER-NINJA previous owners did some bad stuff to the bike/frame.
Cheapest option mate . Stainless tin , in case of impact it will just twist
@Mightyman I've got the similar ones , Zeta makes them. Looks cool mate
Its splits on the weld few weeks ago. Tried to fix it with holz gun paste for exhaust and compress it with jubilees but its useless. Kept the clips on and tried my top speed . Then it sounds a vit louder. Stopped for a tea in town park and asked maintenance guy for flat head screwdriver . Moved clip over the hole problem solved. Need to do some overtime and pm that guy Henrique...
Try to make some photos of the both sides and post them here so we can help you .
To be honest , I have never seen easier tightening and setting chain on rear wheel than on DT's .
!
that looks scary
