No spark at Plug ?
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Well bike was running perfectly finally so took it out for a spin and after 2 miles it started to slow down until it came to a stop halfway up a steep hill brilliant.
So noticed choke was on so thought that was the problem so cleaned plug,I carry tools as this bike is not reliable, and still it would not start, ran it down hill and tried to bump start still not staring,, bike smelt flooded so took out plug cleaned and dried, checked fuse OK checked kill switch position OK,but no spark at plug when tested, it is a brand new NGK, any clues anyone -
I take it the rest of the electrical system works?
It's only going to be one of a few problems.
Fuses, cdi, stand switch, coil, HT leads, fault to earth.
You sure there is no spark?
You have taken the plug out, earthed it to the frame and kicked it over and examined no spark?
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Yes took spark plug out and tested against frame, have already bypassed side stand switch will have a proper look today
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yes there is power to rest of bike,going to bike now to start tracing from power source battery onward hopefully will find fault, not a big fan of electrical;l faults ,more into mechanical faults.
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@Leftyno1 Blah, faults are faults mate. They require the same thought process to diagnose.
The only difference is the tool.
In fact electrical faults are often simpler, nothing magical going on mate. All you need is £5.99 multimeter that will measure voltage. Where you see no potential difference will describe to you your problem.
I had this problem when I swapped engines.
For me, the wires connecting the ignition barrel to the wiring loom had completely corroded. A visual inspection will diagnose that.
Remove, panels, Tank and seat. Leave battery in place and examine the wires across the board. Anything CDI related. A wiring diagram will help, but is not essential.
You need to see the Potential difference, if any from the HT lead. It could simply be a dead plug. If you're getting power in the HT lead then there is no reason why it shouldn't spark.
Don't measure the power using voltage. As HT leads needs thousands and I doubt a 5.99 multimeter will cope. Instead do a continuity test.
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Well Calum LOL Ive been an MEP Engineeer for 35 years and trust me not all faults are equal but get your point,
Weird thing is did a spark test and there was power,So tried bike and it started but would not idle so even though there is a petrol filter fitted I have stripped carb to clean just in process of rebuilding so will see how it goes, cheers -
@Leftyno1 Wow, no need for me to offer advice then since surely you have got to be more qualified than me? I am merely an IT guy?
35 years is impressive. Let me rephrase it slightly, in terms of what can possibly go wrong with a dtr, a fault is a fault. Simple machines that should be easy to figure out.
You sir are not having the best luck with this bike. But trust me, don't lose faith. I can see you are near the light at the end of the tunnel. And once the problems are ironed out this bike will be superb for many years.
Keep us posted. If you want advice I will give it. But I don't want to teach you suck eggs!
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@Calum Well got bike started and got it home but tick over is to high starts at 1500 rpm then quickly rises to 2500 rpm so bike is not running on idle Jet so investigation needed there,but the original fault of bike stopping I think may be a intermittent electrical problem so going to check all earths and wiring loom,
I am always happy to get advice from knowledgeable people like your good self, because I might have been at it a long time but you never no it all unless you are a no it all LOL.. -
Well bike is running perfect now , found problem to be a very small partial blockage in idle Jet so all good now busy putting some miles on the clock running bike in, thanks for help and inputs Calum.