Engine bogs at 8k rpm... every gear
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@Vcelicka This guy has had a go but he's just joining the new lead to a short stub of the old one which might not cure the problem.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jz3pklBtK9o&t=129s
When the coils are manufactured the lead is just a push fit onto a little spike which is the coil output and corrosion can affect the connection here as well as the lead breaking down, hence why soldering makes such a good job of it and sometimes delivers a noticeable performance improvement (the spike sometimes breaks off when removing the old lead but don't worry, just gently clean up what's left of it with a file and solder the new lead to that).
If you don't want to try this just yet you could just trim 5-10mm off the existing lead where it screws into the plug cap as this sometimes helps.
I keep meaning to do a post about this with pictures, will see if I can find time for this
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Just wipe them down with a solvent to get any grease and dirt off…
Also look for thin black ‘pencil’ lines on the plug & cap (inside) Carbon tracking can be a nuisance!…You can’t go wrong just replacing the spark plug and cap. If it still has troubles then do the HT lead….
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Would a rubber boot, like the one on hard plastic NGK caps slip over the HT lead to coil? Just as an extra layer after sealing. Also do you know if RTV silicone is insulating?…
I’m extra attentive to corrosion since my wires started rotting off the back of the connector blocks!!
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Cheers bud!
It’s weird about the wheelie thing. I had my bike do this when I put in a new pilot jet and finally fixed the low rev spluttering and head gasket blowing! It was like an eager little puppy with loads of energy
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@HOTSHOT-III @OllieDTR @SpookDog Thanks so much for the help, i just took the cap from the cable an there was little to none cooper left so i cut it little down and cleaned the cap becous it was rusty . I took it around the hood and work absolutely great..... i will buy new plug and cap anyway beacous the rust . Thanks guys
