Oil Leak from somewhere?
About a week ago i started having an oil leak from the engine somewhere, defiantly engine oil.
i did think it was fuel at first but that has now been ruled out.
anyway. so far i have replaced the fuel tap (old one was rusty and hard to turn), going to replace the fuel line to the carb and the 2t oil line then bleed the oil pump ect to rule those out too.
i have also brought a new clutch gasket to see if thats the cause.
if its not has anyone got any idea what it could be?,
there was no rough riding or anything like that so i have no clue?
Yeah been there a lot.
It's common to see the oil drainage bolt snap so it'll leak through there. If not that then the oil switch on the direct opposite side.
For me it was the two crankcase halves. Either gaskets worn off or they are nor flush.
Can happen if the engine gets overly hot, warps the aluminium.
I have been there. Trying to rectify the issue can be difficult. But if it's gearbox oil then it'll be those three places and sometimes it's just a nightmare to seal.
I dont think thats its the drain bolt, it sheared when doing an oil change and i had it re-tapped and a new bolt put in, it does go in at a wierd angle but its not leaking.
I will have another check though in case i was wrong. If it is i just got another supposidly running engine for £71!, if that dosent work then ill have to rebuild another one that i have.
Hopefully its not that bad and changing the clutch gasket will do it
Also i saw someone offering to rebuild engines a while ago on this or the old forum and i cant seem to find it?,
It might have been you calum
Im not looking for the service, just what you were offering so i can do it myself?
Any help would be appreciated
NORFE used to do engines for people on here. I thought about it, but decided against it as I don't want the responsibility if it all goes wrong on the install and getting blamed for a bad rebuild. It's a rely easy job, once you have some decent tools. The only special tools required are a clutch holding tool and fly wheel puller. Both can be had cheaply.
Happy to answer questions though throw up the appropriate thread with the specific questions and I'll answer them. Although questions like how do I rebuild an engine I'll ignore since it's ambiguous.
A proper run down can be found in a dt haynes manual which is well worth the money.
Another great guide on how to build engines can be found in a book I have just finished 'tuning for speed' by Phil Irving. This guy was so ahead of his time that Australia named their highest engineering award. Again a really worth while book. I bought a copy but type that into Google and there is a free pdf. I got the 5th incarnation cause the books from 1948, so it's a little dated.
The Leak has been fixed!,
it was the clutch gasket after all, it had split and some of it was inside the casing.
put on a new Athena gasket and its all okay now.
however a few more problems have arisen now and i dont know where to start.
firstly my clutch is slipping a lot more now and it probably has to be replaced which i dont mind doing. this may be the oil i am using (Castrol magnatec 10w40), i saw a post ages ago with someone having the same problem.
however the main thing is now the kick-start sometimes does not engage when it is kicked and the bike has to be rocked for it to work again.
if im not mistaken this is also because of the clutch?
regardless of the kick start problem, i have to disassemble it again soon for a clutch rebuild,
does anyone have any suggestions on a clutch kit?, and a bolt kit for it as the ones i have now are not too great. and maybe some advice on the kick start problem?
Clutch is slipping because of that oil mate. I have yet to see a dt that actually needs a clutch replacement. Although I always do it on a fresh engine rebuild. Ebc clutch plates and springs will set you back around 50 quid.
That oil is causing the plates to slip. The kick start should be obvious if you turn it over by hand with the cover off you should see why it's not engaging. It won't be the clutch since the kick start doesn't touch the clutch but the cogs behind the clutch. It'll make sense if you look at it.
There will be the kick starter, which is on a splined shaft which mates the idle gear which touches the clutch.
ill try different oil first and see if that helps.
any recommendations on which one to get?
im finding it hard to find any deceit 10w30 oil to run the engine with?
I run semi synthetic castrol 5 30w. And that is because I couldn't find any fully synthetic. But I have never had gearbox issues on a tuned motor for many miles.