Jetting the carb
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Go with the 210 main jet, do a plug chop and adjust to suit.
The CDI on the 2006 DTX (at least in the UK) is restricted. So you won't be getting full power until you derestrict it, even then the performance is still stifled.
Biggest upgrade I noticed to overall performance was a
Zeeltronicignition system.Vastly improved the performance on my DTRE.
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@calum @hotshot-iii @rallyfinnen All right! But so abaut the jetting, so i should have no restrictions on my 2006 dtx. The only upgrades that i have are the reeds that were switched to carbon ones and a spacer between the intake and the reeds. and also the purtagal pipe from romeuhenriques. Current jetting is: idle 17.5 and main 210. Am i supposed to follow the older model with the 240 jets or what should i start with?
@Elan-n Agree with @calum about the Zeeltronic, I enjoyed the process of installing mine and making it look as stock as possible.
Re jetting, I think I'd be contacting Romeu Henriques, tell him about your other mods (intake spacer dimensions etc.) and see what he says. Everyone speaks very highly of his exhaust systems so he will probably have enough knowledge to plug the numbers into some two-stroke tuning equations and help you out.
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@calum @hotshot-iii all right, i contacted the seller of the exhaust and he told me to use 245 main jet. So ill try that first. After some time ill get that zeeltronic. Firstly i want to get safely on the road. Piston replace gotta happen too because my piston has 22k kilometers but stil sounds good tho no ratlling or something but i want to be sure
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#PotentialHandGrenade
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/0KlaU_adlWg
This was the state of my Raptor piston prior to me rebuilding it. Engine was running absolutely tip top prior to dismantling it. But this was a literal ticking time bomb.
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Well, the Mito engine is highly strung. The Mito runs rings around the DTR, but as a result they're a lot more fragile.
I had the same thing with my ETX, absolutely battered bike, but it's in such a low state of tune that the engine was crisp, almost criminal to rebuild it.
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@calum @hotshot-iii okay a lott happened in the meantime. Firstly i fixed the servo cables and after cleaning procedure it aligned perfectly with the hole. Looked in the exhaust port and was correct. Removed the spacer but kept the carbon reeds. Still runs like crap en servo moved weirdly, not correct in my opinion. That aside, still stutters right before powerband. With as well the 210 and 17.5 jetting and 240 and 27.5(French setup )but with the higher jets i had a lot better throttle response and idling. With the richer setup i tried it to pin the pv on the open position to see what it does when i hit the powerband. And finally it hits
but only in first year tho :s the other gears is starts stuttering again.
Checked my deristrictrion and everything was like its supposed to. So yeah im out of ideas now haha, i run a br9es also like im supposed to. Checked for air leaks, no leaks present. Cleaned air filter and oiled it correctly. Also of i compared the original mikuni jet 210 with the new 240(also a real mikuni) the hole on the 210 was bigger?? -
So I don't align the powervalve with the hole (partly because my exhaust/valve have been ported so it probably isn't right anyway. You did right by aligning flush with the exhaust port. I'd just focus on that, take the exhaust off and align it with the exhaust port. Flick the ignition on and off a few times to make sure the cables don't realign.
If you want a quick way to diagnose your problem to get you a steer in the right direction then I'd do this.
- Align the powervalve flush with the exhaust port
- Disconnect the powervalve servo
- Remove the carb air filter boot (eliminating the airbox)
- Run the bike with no air filter
What this should do.
Remove the powervalve will stifle bottom end, but 6k+ should shoot off like a rocket.
Eliminating the airfilter removes any restrictions that might be present in the air intake tract. Whilst not ideal running without a filter, it will be fine for a short space of time. Unless a stone flicks into the inlet you'll be fine.
You should now be running the bike quite lean (so avoid prolonged wide open throttle). The bike should run better now than ever.
If it runs worse, it tells you your jetting is too rich. If it runs better then you know that you need more fuel. If it runs the same, then you know the problem lies elsewhere.
I am expecting it to be the latter, I'm expecting the problem to lie else where, but ruling these items out first, means we can then start to go more technical knowing that we've addressed the simple things first.
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