So Close!...
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@HOTSHOT-III
That is pretty much what I thought. I wonder if a diode somewhere would stop it happening. It can get quite hairy on dark night when your beam brightness halves!….Yeah charging, lighting & ignition coils…
Interesting to see a diagram with the power valve servo on it!…
One thing I’ve never been able to find on any wiring diagram is the two relay type boxes that I have under my seat. I imagine that they are both to do with the side stand switch ~ ignition cut-out. I’m kinda scared to touch them! I don’t have a side stand switch fitted on my bike (deleted by previous) and I don’t have a clutch switch either (electric start only?) so I’ve never been able to work out what they both do…
On bikes with the side stand switch connected, can you start the engine with the stand down or not? Or does the cutout ‘activate’ when a gear is selected (neutral switch is diss-engaged)?…
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Interesting to see a diagram with the power valve servo on it!…
One thing I’ve never been able to find on any wiring diagram is the two relay type boxes that I have under my seat. I imagine that they are both to do with the side stand switch ~ ignition cut-out. I’m kinda scared to touch them! I don’t have a side stand switch fitted on my bike (deleted by previous) and I don’t have a clutch switch either (electric start only?) so I’ve never been able to work out what they both do…
On bikes with the side stand switch connected, can you start the engine with the stand down or not? Or does the cutout ‘activate’ when a gear is selected (neutral switch is diss-engaged)?…
Just drilled and threaded a broken stud on the replacement casing I got (the one that tried to cut off my middle finger removing the barrel base studs!) and have since discovered that two of the threads around the crank , that join the casings are stripped! I thought it was just old silicunt sealant in them, but it turns out that you can get these plastic inserts that are kinda like rawplugs!…
OMFDaze!
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Just drilled and threaded a broken stud on the replacement casing I got (the one that tried to cut off my middle finger removing the barrel base studs!) and have since discovered that two of the threads around the crank , that join the casings are stripped! I thought it was just old silicunt sealant in them, but it turns out that you can get these plastic inserts that are kinda like rawplugs!…
OMFDaze!
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#meormyschizophrenicshadow
Is it just me Callum, or has the format of the site changed again?
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#meormyschizophrenicshadow
Is it just me Callum, or has the format of the site changed again?
@SpookDog What do you mean again?
It's only changed the once in the entire time I've hosted it.
I bumped the software from 2.X.X to 3.X.X (it's been on 2.X.X for many years).
Along with the software bump I have swapped out the theme, this seemed a bit more mobile friendly.
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Yeah, ideally you'd clear your computers cache settings as it does try to be clever and preserve the last theme from a specific software version. This causes problems where by the code has changed, but your browser has cached certain parts of the website, resulting in a conflict of information. It should fix itself when the cache expires.
The main thing is we've moved to Bootstrap 5 now.
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@Calum , since the format changed I've not been receiving notifications about unread posts/reactions to replies etc. Is there something I can change on my PC to sort this? Still running Windows 7 so as you can imagine I'm sat here jumping on my stove pipe hat like an irate Victorian railway engineer.
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@Calum , since the format changed I've not been receiving notifications about unread posts/reactions to replies etc. Is there something I can change on my PC to sort this? Still running Windows 7 so as you can imagine I'm sat here jumping on my stove pipe hat like an irate Victorian railway engineer.
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@HOTSHOT-III So long as you are using a modern browser and not Internet Explorer you should be fine. Try clearing the browsers cache.
@Calum It's working now, very strange as I've been keeping an eye on it since my TSE250 engine thread the other day. Maybe it just took your reply this morning for my software to recognise it. Anyway thanks for responding
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Any of you arcane knowledged fuxors out there know where to get hold of the kind of seals needed to rebuild a rear shock? I know that they are specialised & not ‘mainstream’, but I know they are made and available to people (especially in the business) if you know where to look. Anyone know where to look?…
Ta!…PS can anybod tell me what the process is called where you cut metal with a water jet? Or even the plasma (maybe?) technique? I’d like to find out about cutting sheet stainless or high carbon steel sheet …
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Got a bargain £32.50 crank from fleabay! It looks like it’s been cleaned (acid) before having a new conrod fitted! I’ve never seen a crank with so little play, even side to side
have everything new now apart from the clutch actuator bearing, which I’m going to fit a good used one to unless anyone knows the size?…
PS how to load pics? I have no button or options… -
You just do the same as you always do, but by default the "advanced" editor is hidden. But it's just Markdown so you just write it inline
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You just do the same as you always do, but by default the "advanced" editor is hidden. But it's just Markdown so you just write it inline
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Cheers bud!
WTF? It’s in the top banner above the ‘typing area’ now!
I must of been using the quick post option…
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Rod has 2rh on it like a standard one (?)…
Threads are good, there’s just a bit of a ‘knurled’ over end on the inside of the hollow bit on the stator side. Someone hammered on it (a bit) in the past…
It doesn’t float, it sank when I put it in a bucket of water
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Sorry! It’s virtually nothing. I’ll measure it later when I’m sober 🥴 but it’s tight…I noticed the two heat spots on the topside of where the centre pin is and thought it had work done on it. I don’t know whether they heat the sides to split the crank or assemble it, I’m guessing they split it. The spots look well defined so I thought it was someone who knew what they were doing. Hopefully!
…But seriously it looks good. About time I had some good luck
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Rod has 2rh on it like a standard one (?)…
Threads are good, there’s just a bit of a ‘knurled’ over end on the inside of the hollow bit on the stator side. Someone hammered on it (a bit) in the past…
It doesn’t float, it sank when I put it in a bucket of water
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Sorry! It’s virtually nothing. I’ll measure it later when I’m sober 🥴 but it’s tight…I noticed the two heat spots on the topside of where the centre pin is and thought it had work done on it. I don’t know whether they heat the sides to split the crank or assemble it, I’m guessing they split it. The spots look well defined so I thought it was someone who knew what they were doing. Hopefully!
…But seriously it looks good. About time I had some good luck
️Managed to get the early casings for £45! Engine number 654! Sweet!…
Also managed to remove & measure the clutch actuator arm bearing and get a couple ordered. Gaskets are in the post. I’ve got just about everything I need to build…Just need to strip a rear shock so I can measure the size of the various seals needed to rebuild one…
Happy daze! 🤩 …
damn, that's annoying.
