Fork seal replacement
-
Check the post above! They are the fork~bush sizes for a dtr125 which have 41mm forks. I don’t know if dtx’s are different. (Edit!) I checked the Haynes manual and it just says ‘DT’ models, so I’m guessing that the above sizes are for Dtx forks as well. They work out about £20 or so if I remember correctly…
The clips are 56mm and about a fiver for stainless steel ones on eBay. Again, the Allen bolts (genuine) are £17 a pair on eBay…
-
@SpookDog Ace mate cheers for that! Will get them ordered up
. Yeah it did finally crack after a hell of allot of heat and effort 
. I'll get the dremel on it and open up the base of the leg a tad so the tolerance isn't so close between the bolt and fork perhaps. One crush washer is ceased solid in there so hopefully that'll allow me to get that out a bit easier too to replace. I'll no doubt strip them again next winter and get them powder coated as they are in a bit of a state but the aim is just to have a bit of fun this summer while i get my other bike sorted. Also the damper rods in my forks dont have the 27mm hex or infact any kind of way of undoing them from the inside its just smooth so i'll be getting a refund on that £24 tool i bought the other day haha thankfully the broom handle saved the day . Slight pitting high up on the stancion not really in reach of the seals unless i go flying off an mx jump to flat but any ideas with whats best for sorting them out a bit? From what ive seen online people use a bit of 1500 grit to take the high points off and maybe even using some kind of expoxy resin to fill the pits if needed. May look into that a bit more in the meantime too. Thanks again mate for the help, much appreciated -
I left my seized washers in and used them again last time, not the best solution but it worked!…
I use silicone sealant on the bolt heads before fitting them in. After it’s all torqued up I cover the bolt and hole as well…I use fine wire wool to remove rust, aluminium foil works as well. Any pits I fill with chemical metal/epoxy filler-adhesive. I’ve used it on bad pits in the ‘seal zone’ before with good results. I’m sure that there’s better, proper methods of repair that I don’t know about
… -
@SpookDog Yeah i may have to do that if it comes to it then. Hitting dead ends everywhere trying to find a set of bushes though. Cant find anywhere with the measurments you privided. I have phoned around and everywhere to main dealers and suspension specialists and all im getting is that the parts for these forks have been discontinued. May have to just look into doing a fork conversion if i cant find any or just hope that the bushes i have that come out them initially arent as mashed as they look
. Not ideal but i cant see any other options -
Sorry Brook suspension. Go to website:
Then use the left hand button (looks like a = but with 3 lines) in the tool bar for:
Front end: then
Forks bushes: then
Guide bushes: then
Then change to search by product name they will be in dimensions…Do it with ‘slide bushes’ as well. Guide is top bushes and Slide is bottom bushes.
Good luck, let us know if you have any problems. Or how you get on … -
Actually, thinking about it, they are probably 41.7 x 20 x 1
If the fork Stantions are 41 then the bushes will be slightly wider so they are the sacrificial surface that connects. Not the stantion!…I was given the original dimensions in a post on this site last year. I’ll search for it later…
-
@SpookDog Haha no worries mate. Had me looking everywhere for 41.00mm
. Yeah i found another post on here and the guy had ordered them ones off brooks and said they worked perfectly so i ordered them up earlier. Ordered some paints too so should have some pretty fresh forks by the end if all goes well. Going to strip the paint off them tomorrow and address any pitting on the stancions etc -
Also get yourself a decent size tub of red rubber grease. Grease the station bottoms when you assemble it, as well as the seals & bushes…
It’s wicked stuff for fitting tyres as well. Grease under the rubber strip to waterproof the spoke tops inside the rim, as well as for slipping the tyre on
…It’s good with calliper piston & seals as well…
First time I saw it used was on ‘Wheeler Dealers’! Anton slavered it on a calliper piston with a brush!
I did some searching on the web after that and was surprised I’d never seen it before… -
@HOTSHOT-III yes you are right 25 mm is for the top, the bottom damper Bolt requires 62 mm, i used a new Copper washer but not loctite since Yamaha manual does not mention it
