What was I thinking!…
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What?! It’s a racing plug! A lad sold it to me along with a 350 main jet to make it go faster! See the way it’s straining to go forwards faster?
That or it stops dust & acorns falling in the barrel
I wish I’d took pics of the piston in the bore, such a sweet fit. I love PJME freshly rebores!…
Thankfully I found a clutch bracket in my bits box, along with the PV & housing that I don’t remember buying
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Filled and sanded
I am not recommending anyone do this !
That said, if I close my eyes and run my fingers up and down I can’t feel anything untoward at all! Before it would of grated a lemon…
Just waiting on another parcel of fork seals to come, the first one got itself lost in transit. That and some aluminium silver spray paint and zinc primer to finish the swingarm and (bolt on) frame down tubes. Then I can mount the engine and move towards getting it running
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This thread is inspiring and refreshing. I wish I had your skills.
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Awww, bless! Thank you! But I wouldn’t call it skill so much as wariness as the result of a lot of misstooks
seriously though, I had to teach myself. I’ve always had cheap bangers and had to maintain them. Couldn’t afford anything else. I built myself a lambretta chop out of an old frame I found in the woods in Shaftesbury, on the road for £50 (T&T not included!) Good old days! I wish we’d had the WWW back when I was a yoof though!…Ordered some bushes. Couldn’t find any 42mm x 39 so got the closest available which are 43 x 39. These could very well be the correct size, if not I can get the fork leg machined out a mil to take them. It’s easy to get at now I’ve sussed out how to remove the aluminium (seal holder) end-cap…
Pics to come…
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Scraped off the ‘satin black covers all’ paint to let the seal cup slide up…
Once it’s slid up remove the ring clip
Which allows it to come off for cleaning. The bottom guide bush sits in the recess that my thumb is pointing to. The seals live in the aluminium ‘cup’. My seals turned up and are a perfect fit…
If the bush I ordered is too big I’ll have to find someone to machine it out 1mm…
PS: there’s also an o-ring in the cup that benefits from cleaning or replacing…
Poor steel upper fork tube looks like it was attacked by a boyracer with a Brillo pad! I’ve got no idea what kind of finish to put on it, any ideas?…
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Started in on the brakes while I wait for bushes…
Getting one piston out can be bad enough! Four is a bad joke! Pumping them out hydraulically wasn’t an option. So I grabbed the blind bearing puller that I got for peanuts on fleabay and wrapped duct tape around it to fit the pistons. Getting them moving is half the battle, once they were twisting i lubed them and use the slide hammer to tap them out while gently pull & twisting them…
Worked a treat!
PS 30 year old brake fluid is some nasty stuff!
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Hmmmm! Turns out that the rear is not so easy. Too big an internal diameter pistons for my slide hammer bodge. Plus somebody has already mullahed one of the bleed screw threads.
Anyone ever had an oversized bleed screw fitted to a calliper? Does the V profile at the bottom stay the same size/dimension?… -
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But I’ll worry about that when I have the money to pay for it
Plan of action: Ready frame into enough of a rolling chassis to fit engine.
- Clean rear shock for refitting.
- Clean & grease swingarm bearings, bolt, bushes & endcap/seals.
- Temporarily fit forks for symmetry.
- Clean & prep front & rear wheel bolts, spacers & adjusters, ect.
- Whack it together…
I ground off the rust and gave the swingarm & down tubes a temporary paint job, because they were pretty scabby. Angle grinder then rust converter, then zinc primer, then (apparently!) aluminium- silver…
TBC… -
Baby steps is still forward steps!
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Been busy enjoying the weather but still managed to get a little bit done!
I definitely need to get the new bushes fitted in, there’s loads of stanchion movement in the fork leg. I just need to find a trustworthy engineer with a lathe…The bump stop rubber has rotted out on the rear shock. I need to find a replacement that can be fitted in situ, if there are such things that anysoul knows of?…
So quiet! Is everything hibernating already? …
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@SpookDog said in What was I thinking!…:
I forgot!…
Any experience with Linkseal Oko? I’ve only just discovered this kind of product. It sounds too good to be true! But the theory/idea makes sense as long as it performs as it says…
Never heard of it but looks like stuff that put on bicycle when the tubeless conversion on spoked rim is done.
If it's quality stuff it will do what is advertised. -
Sounds right!…
Put it in and it coats the inside of the tyre & rim and stays liquid, if you ever get a puncture it will be forced out into the puncture hole and seal it. Sounds almost too good!
But!: From what I’ve read a lot of it is agricultural and off road based, which is only a good thing to my thinking…
I can’t believe I’ve never heard of it before…Another piece of the puzzle connected!
One day I’ll get a bike that comes in one bit without the challenge of sussing out how it all fits together 🫤 …
Maybe, but where’s the fun in that!
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Tzr125RR tailpipe…
Man this thing is heavy! as well as looking like it was used as a bobsleigh!
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WTF is that inside?! Someone left a WW2 torpedo inside!…
Is this normal or was this an asthmatic example of Yamahas finest? This ‘can’ weights about a kilo, no shit!…
It’s weird cause the expansion chamber breathes really well with no obstructions, though it ways a Shit ton as well!!…
This was not an easy picture to take, that spot of light is the only ‘free airway’ through the can! It was only visible if I angled it’just so’…
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I seriously can’t believe that a tailpipe would be so restricted!
This is what came out:
This is what any exhaust gas faces when exiting the expansion chamber:
I’ve got a Big1 tailpipe I’m going to try and fit to the expansion chamber. I ran a clutch cable outer through it just to make sure it wasn’t severely baffled as well! TF it’s clear!…
Are Dtr tailpipes like this? They’re definitely heavy enough!…
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@SpookDog Stock DTR tailpipes are like your TZR-R tailpipe; you can't see through them at all. I've never considered the stock DTR tailpipe to be a restriction, all mine with stock exhausts have revved to 10,000rpm+.
I did however once bolt a brand new DEP silencer on to the stock front pipe on my '93 3NC, and the bike immediately refused to rev any higher than 9,000rpm. I tried it in several different directions to rule out headwinds etc. and it just would not rev out fully. Refitting the stock tailpipe cured this straight away.
Your front pipe looks very similar in construction to a stock DTR front pipe as well so until you've rebuilt and run in the engine and properly assessed its performance, I'd resist the temptation to do anything irreversible to the exhaust.
Lots of people "gut out" the stock DTR front pipe in the mistaken belief it will liberate a ton of extra horsepower but it often makes it slower. The DT125R/DT200R styling was based on the 1988 YZ250 and the expansion chamber is about the same physical size. Within that there was enough space for an appropriately-sized, functioning expansion chamber for a 125cc road/trail bike and enough noise suppression material for the bike to pass a noise test (whereas the YZ is for closed-course competition which is why it has a single-skin racing exhaust). If you chop it open with an angle grinder and rip all that stuff out, it will not only sound like a wasp in a tin can but also you’ll probably lose power as you no longer have an expansion chamber which matches the porting/carb/crankcase volume etc. By all means bolt on an aftermarket silencer and try it but from your pics, I'd be surprised if the stock silencer is restrictive. Probably more likely it's like that to manipulate sound waves to pass a noise test so the owner doesn't have to suffer the hassle of repacking the silencer periodically.
