230 conversion
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I finally received the engine today! Started test-fitting it in a spare DTR frame, and there is a issue with the starter 'features' hitting the frame under the flywheel. I also started replacing the stator, as I'm going to run it with Zeel, so needs a charging coil as mentioned before.
This will take some time, plan is to measure up the engine completely and get it into EngMod2T simulation software first. So, I need to lift the top end, and probably I will do some cleaning of the ports and modify the head, as they seem to be very low compression from factory. I will need to sim the engine to get an idea of what way to go with the exhaust, modify an Athena exhaust, modify a gasgas 250 exhaust I have, or something else.. That way I can enter the exhaust dimensions and simulate them before cutting and welding etc. -
It has the kick starter shaft too, so I can just fit that if I want, but I want the electric starter.
The bushing for the mount under the swing arm is abt 1mm too long, so I had to grind off abt 0,5mm on each side of that one.
The intake has an enormous mounting diameter for the carb, so I ordered both a Cr125 and (hopefully) a smaller version of the DT230 intake. CR125 VF4 drops straight in, but might obscure the boost port too much. I have no plan to run e mega carb. I think 30-34mm should be enough.
I have taken off the cylinder now, and will measure the engine and simulate it in EngMod2T later on.
Expect no pictures here, because I don't use the image hosting services that go away, ransom your pictures etc.. (if you know, you know). I did put up some pictures in the Swedish DT125 FB-group. -
It has the kick starter shaft too, so I can just fit that if I want, but I want the electric starter.
The bushing for the mount under the swing arm is abt 1mm too long, so I had to grind off abt 0,5mm on each side of that one.
The intake has an enormous mounting diameter for the carb, so I ordered both a Cr125 and (hopefully) a smaller version of the DT230 intake. CR125 VF4 drops straight in, but might obscure the boost port too much. I have no plan to run e mega carb. I think 30-34mm should be enough.
I have taken off the cylinder now, and will measure the engine and simulate it in EngMod2T later on.
Expect no pictures here, because I don't use the image hosting services that go away, ransom your pictures etc.. (if you know, you know). I did put up some pictures in the Swedish DT125 FB-group.@Rallyfinnen It's annoying that images get ransomed. I simply don't have the bandwidth HDD space and/or money to host images.
That said, I have migrated my images to the server so that the issue of images being ransomed goes away for me.
Oh that's really awesome. I certainly hope it works out for you though. I think I'm done with the DTR platform for the time being and am concerned with my RD at the moment. But I am building an LC motor which one day may be transplanted into a DTR chassis...
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Hard to get tuning parts for the LC engines though! I have a modified Athena 170 on a DT LC engine, It was all I could think of. Welded on a reed inlet on the cylinder to get a cylinder reed. Had to send it for re-plating after that, because it was warped during welding. Runs about the same as the DTR which also has the Athena 170 for now (until I transplant the 230 engine). It's a custom build DT LC 'supermoto style' with a low slung exhaust and 18" wheels front and rear. Yamaha competition yellow with some DYI side fairings and graphics. I named it DTX. Put a lot of work (and money) on that one this winter!
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Not sure if this will work: https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10165850989140701&set=g.1650331705410143
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As a swede who recently have ogled DT200's and Lanzas for sale in Greece, pondering if a trip down with a small lorry is too big a venture, I find this HIGHLY interesting. Please keep us updated!
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As a swede who recently have ogled DT200's and Lanzas for sale in Greece, pondering if a trip down with a small lorry is too big a venture, I find this HIGHLY interesting. Please keep us updated!
As a swede who recently have ogled DT200's and Lanzas for sale in Greece, pondering if a trip down with a small lorry is too big a venture, I find this HIGHLY interesting. Please keep us updated!
Join the 'Yamaha DT125 Sverige' FB group, I try to update my post with some pictures from time to time. Plan is to get it running before the end of my vacation, in two weeks.
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Yeah, thanks - I used to be in that group but dumped my Facebook account this winter.
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By the way - this seems to be the most frequented site for looking at DT200/230 bikes and parts in Greece. I am not sure, but I think it was the only market in EU where they were sold.
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Would be quite a project to get one from Greece, picking it up, registration etc, probably a renovation too. It will be an expensive bike, but on the other hand, it can probably be sold for a higher price than a converted 125! If they get's too expensive, I'm reluctant to ride them because I might get a scratch etc. I thought they sold some in France too, but maybe not..
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Thing is that I have a relative that imports olive oil and make trips there in a truck from time to time. I figured I should go with him some time and pick up a bike. Registration in another EU country should merely be a paper thing, like 50€ plus a new number plate. There is one DT200R in Sweden, I saw it for sale the other year.
And yeah, it would probably need renovation. But I already fixed a DT125R this spring, and most parts are the same or can be found on eBay, so it is not a insurmountable issue.
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There were chaps on here that used to do something very similar but to the UK. Go down with a van and collect 5 or 6 bikes at a time.
Definitely worth while if it means you get the right bike.
My Dad imported a Lambretta GP from Brussells a few years ago, was no hassle.
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The 230 is up and running!

I have run about two tanks through it, but the chinese pwk carb I'm using is bad (had it in a box of junk carbs), so it drinks more than it should. Its stutters and putters on low throttle openings, and nothing I've done helps the issue completely (jets, needle and even filing the cutaway on the throttle slide). Runs well on more throttle though, and pulls pretty well. I have another clone pwk on the way, and hope that will work better (had good reviews). Internal gearing is higher, so 5th on the 230 is about the same as 6th on the 125. Went from 17 to 16 on the front sprocket, and now I'm doing just abt 5k at 80kph. It goes better than my sligtly modified 170-engine. I still have stuff to do with tuning the carb when I get it, tuning the zeeltronic, fixing the starter cicuit etc. I have not figured out how to integrate a starter button close to the throttle handle yet. Not a lot of space to add a switch next to the stop switch (that I'm using as a map switch now).
Engine seems fine, no problems with vibrations, shifts are good, and clutch is holding up. Some small drag from the clutch at standstill that can make it a bit hard to shift when standing still, even if the engagement point is fairly early on the travel of the lever. Using a DT LC clutch cable, because the DTR cable did not fit the engine, DT LC cable was a perfect fit.
I guess that's it for this update. -
Some overheating issues this weekend. I have checked the thermostat, water pump and head gasket. I also blew out the cooling system with compressed air, but no debris found. The head was a bit warped (like bulging towards the middle of the sealing surface). However the head is not stock, it has been welded and a new combustion chamber shape was machined, so can't blame the manufacturer. I did not see any signs of head gasket leaks, so I doubt that was it. I resurfaced the head and put it back together. I'm running a bit tight squish at 1mm, so i might have to try lifting the cylinder with a thicker base gasket to increase squish a bit and decrease compression slightly. Should be 11:1 as is which has been ok on other bikes. I'm running double radiators, so cooling should be similar to the DT230. The first two tanks I did not experience any temp issues, so it's a bit strange. Outside temp was about the same as before. Only thing changed that I know of was (continuous) changes with the carb and filling it with 95 octane, since my 98oct fuel can was empty and there is no 98 where I live. I also made a ignition map with 2deg less advance to run the 95oct.
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Well, after some fiddling today I have a theory.
I installed a under-plug temp meter today. I even checked it against a known good temperature meter in hot water for good measure.
I went for a drive, and the under plug temp was in the 60 degC-range all the time during driving. The meter on the bike was then in the position between straight up and red. When I stopped and let it idle, the meter on the bike quickly climbed to the end of the green scale, but the under plug temp was just over 70 deg C. So the conclusion is that when the meter was just up in the red area, it was not actually overheating, but it must have been a small compression leak pushing the fluid out. No issues whatsoever during my drive today, even if a was pushing it a bit with some full throttle accelerations through the gears, and short high speed bursts. Easy 120kph with some pretty brutal head wind, I was feeling uncomfortable riding it at that point.
Don't want to push it too hard with the current carb setup, and I still have the 95oct gas in the tank too. Anyway, plug had a nice brown color afterwards.
Weather was a couple of degrees cooler today, but I still think the issue is gone. Under-plug temps are usually higher than the water temp, especially when pushing, so I'm really happy with it such low temps. -
It sems to have potential, even if I still have a bad carb, and PV and ignition are just based on butt dyno. Riding with a friend today I realized how slow his bike seemed, he was keeping up fairly well before, but now I felt like I was puttering around for him to keep up

I have had a creeping feeling that maybe the reeds were damaged, and not the carb, so I pulled them out and checked them today, but they were fine. (VF4 clone for CR125 with DIY Polini 0.35mm petals).
Can't wait to try another carb on it, feels like I have done a million mods and adjustments on that POS carb by now.. I was not so familiar with the PWK's before, but by now I know them in and out
BTW, temp was perfect during the ride.
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