Bike will start but not Tick over ?
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Well so far found no air leaks but air snorkle was not seated properly (it is now) going to have a good set to tomorrow as have some time bike is running rich smokey as hell ) and screw is only 3/4 of a turn out,but will hopefully set it up properly tomorrow.
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Well I have got the bike ticking over at a lovely 1500 rpm nice and steady,how i got there was by starting with main Jet funnily enough the bike from cold or warm would tick over about 1800 rpm cold to 2100 warm (not good),, I also realized if I revved bike over 5000 rpm it would bog and stop warm and cold, so I thought I would take out 230 Main Jet and replace it with original 180 Main Jet, I also made sure everthing was clean ( though I have fitted a filter) and that throttle cable was not ajar. put everthing back together and she started first time and then I had to adjust tickover to correct rpm and set mixture screw out 1.5 turns, bike now revs past 5000 rpm and settles back to 1500 rpm .
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@Leftyno1 Definitely would not recommend 180 main jet.
Have yoy read the guide on tuning carbs on here?
The main jet has nothing to do with idle!
Very odd why that has sorted itself out.
Is the needle correct?
180 main jet will cause it to lean out on wide open throttle.
Of course every engine is different and no two jettings will work the same. But Yamaha set it to 240 for a reason.
Definitely seems like an underlying problem.
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@Calum Yes agree it does seem small took it out and engine is smoking when revved hard but also clutch slipping at 5500 rpm I changed oil Castrol GTX 10w 30 oil ,so something new to investigate changed oil because it was slipping a bit before .
Going to try 230 Jet back in tomorrow and see how it goes but bike is definitely not running lean as I leave a trail of smoke every where like a good un.,but it is ticking over well and not cutting out like before. -
@Leftyno1 Just because it smokes doesn't mean its not running lean.
Sounds like if it's smoking excessively that the oil is too rich. However the fuel, which remember is critical in keeping yhe engine cool, can still run lean!
The oil is controlled via a separate pump and bares no relation to the fuel.
If the clutch is slipping then it could be assembled incorrectly. I have described how to balance the clutch amd install it on this forum.
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@Calum Just remembered when engine seized I sprayed some WD (moment of madness) in Barrel so Transmission oil probably contaminated which in turn probably contaminated clutch plates so even though I've changed the oil it is still on the plates themselves .
will fit the 240 jet in morning and see how it runs, this bike is like a show jumping horse always another fence to clear it is now the most worked on Bike I have ever owned not feeling the love at this moment lol. -
Well thats good news about the WD and clutch, after rebuild Clutch was way out and took a lot of adjustment ,will check tutorial link and also have a haynes so maybe he says with fingers crossed it might just need adjusting. But with cars i have found once there slipping you have to change them ,is it the same with the DT.
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Set clutch up took 5 minutes and yes the bike is running like a good un no clutch slip ,and no smoke trail any more correct Jet maybe or carb was not set right anyway all is good ,and feeling the love once more, now just another 450 miles and it is run in .Thanks for help.
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@Leftyno1 yeah nice one man.
Yes and no. Of course when the clutch wears significantly it will slip. But it will not disengaged before it slips so theres that.
What I mean is when the clutch is on ots way out. With the clutch lever pulled in the clutch with not disengage and still pass power to the wheels.
You them adjust it to its max setting on yhe lever, perch and clutch drum. If that still fails then new plates amd springs.
But I mean you would need serious mileage before that happens. By which time you will do a full engine rebuild and why you wouldn't build yhe clutxh at that stage is madness.
