Slipping clutch after rebuild
Sgt Robuck 5 last edited by
I recently rebuilt my clutch after it was dragging and now it's slipping. I was curious to why this is. I am 100% positive i put the steels and plates in properly and aligned it all correctly. I am using a 10w30 mineral oil so I don't think that's the problem as I ran it before the rebuild. Maybe the pushrod is not adjusted? I heard you have to adjust them which I did not as I didn't see no such setting in the Haynes manual, would appreciate any help or information!!!
So the common one here i that one of the friction plates is about half the width of all the others and uses a compression ring in the middle. That must go on first.
Assuming you've done that, then the clutch springs must be torqued up appropriately and within spec.
The clutch MUST spend 24 hours soaked in oil prior to their installation, this means to take each clutch plate out on their own and bathe them in a layer of oil for 24 hours.
The clutch is actuator by the cam arm, two push rods separated by the ball bearing.
However, this is used to disengage the clutch, which wouldn't cause it slip.
If it's been set so that it's never engaged, then this would be where you look.
First starting at the clutch basket, you want to ensure the screw and nut have been adjusted appropriately.
Once you're confident that's been done, then you adjust at the cam arm.
And once that's done, you make your final amendments to the clutch perch.
Mitch_350z last edited by
Not too sure what oil all the other guys are using but mineral oil made mine slip so used silkolene light gear oil instead, that worked a treat
Mine slipped with Castrol Magentec. I just use Castrol GTX Semi 5-30w